Cosmetics and personal care products

Natural Polymers: Industry Techniques and Applications

Volumn , Issue , 2015, Pages 219-261

  Savary, Géraldine ^a   Grisel, Michel ^a   Picard, Céline ^a  

^a UNIVERSITÉ DU HAVRE   (France)

Author keywords

Cosmetics; Emulsions; Formulations; Gums; Hyaluronic acid; Proteins polysaccharides; Rheology; Stability

Indexed keywords

CHEMICAL MODIFICATION; CONVERGENCE OF NUMERICAL METHODS; COSMETICS; EMULSIONS; HYALURONIC ACID; POLYSACCHARIDES; PROTEINS; RHEOLOGY;

COLLOIDAL SYSTEM; CONTROL PROPERTIES; FORMULATIONS; GUMS; PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS; PHYSICOCHEMICAL PROPERTY; RHEOLOGICAL PROPERTY; SYNTHETIC POLYMERS;

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS;

EID: 85009661145     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
DOI: 10.1007/978-3-319-26414-1_8     Document Type: Chapter

References (69)

1. Aben S, Holtze C, Tadros T, Schurtenberger P (2012) Rheological investigations on the creaming of depletion-flocculated emulsions. Langmuir 28: 7967-7975
2. Abrutyn ES (2010) Polymers in personal care. Cosmet Toiletries Mag 125(7): 48-52
3. Asad R (2011) Applications for sustainable cellulose derivatives in personal care. Happiness. http://shows.happi.com/articles/2011/06/applications-for-sustainable-cellulose-derivatives
4. Bais D, Trevisan A, Lapasin R, Partal P, Gallegos C (2005) Rheological characterization of polysaccharide-surfactant matrices for cosmetic O/W emulsions. Colloids Interface Sci 290: 546-556
5. Barnes HA (1994) Rheology of emulsions-a review. Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochemical Eng Aspects 91: 89-95
6. Bolduc C, Shapiro J (2001) Hair care products: waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring. Clin Dermatol 19(4): 431-436
7. Bourguignon LY, Wong G, Xia W, Man MQ, Holleran WM, Elias PM (2013) Selective matrix (hyaluronan) interaction with CD44 and RhoGTPase signaling promotes keratinocyte functions and overcomes age-related epidermal dysfunction. J Dermatol Sci 72(1): 32-44
8. Bouyer E, Mekhloufi G, Rosilio V, Grossiord J-L, Agnely F (2012) Proteins, polysaccharides, and their complexes used as stabilizers for emulsions: alternatives to synthetic surfactants in the pharmaceutical field? Int J Pharm 436: 359-378
9. Bradley E, Griffiths C, Sherratt M, Bell M, Watson R (2015) Over-the-counter ant-ageing topical agents and their ability to protect and repair photoaged skin. Maturitas. doi: 10.1016/j.maturitas.2014.12.019
10. Brummer R, Godersky S (1999) Rheological studies to objectify sensations occurring when cosmetic emulsions are applied to the skin. Colloids Surf A 152: 89-94
11. Bureiko A, Trybala A, Kovalchuk N, Starov V (2014) Current applications of foams formed from mixed surfactant-polymer solutions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. doi: 10.1016/j.cis.2014.10.001
12. Capron I, Cathala B (2013) Surfactant-free high internal phase emulsions stabilized by cellulose nanocrystals. Biomacromolecules 14: 291-296
13. Civille GV, Dus CA (1991) Evaluating tactile properties of skincare products: a descriptive analysis technique. Cosmetics Toiletries 106: 83-88
14. Cosmetic Products (2013) Europa summaries of EU legislation. Available from http://europa. eu/legislation_summaries/consumers/product_labelling_and_packaging/co0013_en.htm. Accessed 15 Mar 2015
15. Cosmetics and U.S. Law (2005) FDA. Available from http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceR egulation/LawsRegulations/ucm2005209.htm. Accessed 15 Mar 2015
16. Delbarre-Ladrat C, Sinquin C, Lebellenger L, Zykwinska A, Colliec-Jouault S (2014) Exopolysaccharides produced by marine bacteria and their applications as glycosaminoglycan-like molecules. Frontiers Chem 2(85): 1-15
17. Dimuzio AM, Abrutyn ES, Cantwell MY (2005) Correlating sensory perception to the rheological parameters of emulsions: a predictive model for the future product development? J Cosmet Sci 56: 356-358
18. Finore I, Di Donato P, Mastascusa V, Nicolaus B, Poli A (2014) Fermentation technologies for the optimization of marine microbial exopolysaccharide production. Marine Drugs 12: 3005-3024
19. Gesslein B (1999) Humectants in personal care formulation:a practical guide (95-109). In: Scheller R, Romanowski P (ed) Conditioning agents for hair and skin. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 21, Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York
20. Gilbert L (2012) Caractérisation physico-chimique et sensorielle d’ingrédients cosmétiques: une approche méthodologique. PhD Thesis, Université du Havre
21. France Gilbert L, Loisel V, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2013c) Stretching properties of xanthan, carob, modified guarand celluloses in cosmetic emulsions. Carbohydr Polym 93: 644-650
22. Gilbert L, Picard C, Savary G, Grisel M (2012) Impact of polymers on texture properties of cosmetic emulsions: a methodological approach. J Sens Stud 27(5): 392-402
23. Gilbert L, Picard C, Savary G, Grisel M (2013a) Rheological and textural characterization of cosmetic emulsions containing natural and synthetic polymers: relationship between both data. Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochemical Eng Aspects 421: 150-163
24. Gilbert L, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2013b) Predicting sensory texture properties of cosmetic emulsions by physical measurements. Chemometr Intell Lab Syst 124: 21-31
25. Goddard ED (1999) Polymer/surfactant interaction in applied systems. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 181-215
26. Gruber JV (1999) Polysaccharide-based polymers in cosmetics. In: In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (ed) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 339-403
27. Hoshowski MA (1997) Conditioning of hair, chapter 4. In: Johnson DH (ed) Hair and hair care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 17. Marcel Dekker
28. INIC Nomenclature Conventions (2015) Available from https://inci.personalcarecouncil.org/inciapp/html/INCINomenclatureConventions.pdf. Accessed 30 Mar 2015
29. Jamshidian M, Savary G, Grisel M, Picard C (2014) Stretching properties of xanthan and hydroxypropyl guar in aqueous solutions and in cosmetic emulsions. Carbohydr Polym 112: 334-341
30. Jachowicz J, Smewing J (2008) Texture analysis to quantify skin care product efficacy. Cosmet Toiletries 123: 69-72
31. Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Dokic P, Dapcevic T (2009) Effects of xanthan gum on physicochemical properties and stability of corn oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitanmonooleate. Food Hydrocolloids 23: 2212-2218
32. Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Nikolic I, Milanovic M (2015) Influence of xanthan gum on oil-in-water characteristics stabilized by OSA starch. Food Hydrocolloids 45: 9-17
33. Llamas S, Guzman E, Ortega F, Baghdadli N, Cazeneuve C, Rubio RG, Luengo GS (2014) Adsorption of polyelectrolytes and polyelectrolytes-surfactant mixture at surfaces: a physico-chemical approach to a cosmetic challenge. Adv Colloid Interface Sci. doi: 10.1016/j.cis.2014.05.007
34. Lee I-S, Yang H-M, Kim J-W, Maeng Y-J, Lee C-W, Kang Y-S, Rang M-J, Kim H-Y (2005) Terminology development and panel training for sensory evaluation of skin care products including aqua cream. J Sens Stud 20: 421-433
35. Le Flacon (2015) La composition des produits cosmétiques. Available from: leflacon.free.fr. Accessed 15 Mar 2015
36. Liang Y, Gillies G, Patel H, Matia-Merino L, Ye A, Golding M (2014) Physical stability, microstructure and rheology of sodium-caseinate-stabilized emulsions as influenced by protein concentration and non-adsorbing polysaccharides. Food Hydrocolloids 36: 245-255
37. Lindman B, Carlsson A, Gerdes S, Karlström G, Piculell L, Thalberg K, Zhang K (1993) In: Walstra P, Dickinson E (eds) Food colloids and polymers: stability and mechanical properties. RSC, Cambridge
38. Lochhead RY, Gruber JV (1999) Appendix: Encyclopedia of Polymers and Thickeners for Cosmetics. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (ed) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care. Cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker, pp 584-667
39. Lochhead RY (2010) A review of recent advances in the polymeric delivery of attributes in cosmetics and personal care products. In: Morgan S et al (ed) Polymeric delivery of therapeutics. ACS symposium series. ACS
40. Lochhead RY (2007) The Role of Polymers in Cosmetics: Recent Trends, in Cosmetic Nanotechnology, Morgan, S., ACS Symposium Series, Vol. 961. Washington, Chapter 1: 3-56
41. Lochhead RY (2012) Shampoo and conditioner science. In Practical Modern Hair Science, Trefor Evans and R. Randall Wickett, Allured books, 2012, ISBN-13: 9781932633931
42. Lorencini M., Brohem C., Dieamant G., Zanchin N. and Maibach H. (2014) Active ingredients against human epidermal aging. AgeingResearch Reviews, 15, 100-115
43. Lukic M, Jaksic I, Krstonosic V, Cekic N, Savic S (2012a) A combined approach in characterization of an effective W/O hand cream: the influence of emollient on textural, sensorial and in vivo skin performance. Int J Cosmet Sci 34: 140-149
44. Lukic M, Jaksic I, Krstonosic V, Dokic L, Savic S (2012b) Effect of small change in oil phase composition on rheological and textural properties of W/O emulsion. Journal of Texture Studies 44(1): 34-44 Making Cosmetics, 2015. Available from: . [15 March 2015]
45. Marku D, Wahlgren M, Rayner M, Sjöö M, Timgren A (2012) Characterization of starch Pickering emulsions for potential applications in topical formulations. InternationalJournal of Pharmaceutics 428: 1-7
46. Mostefa NM, Sadok AH, Sabri N, Hadji A (2006) Determination of optimal cream formulation from long-term stability investigation using a surface response modelling. Int J Cosmet Sci 28: 211-218
47. Neudahl G (1999) Proteins for conditioning hair and skin, in Conditioning agents for hair and skin, edited by Randy Scheller and Perry Romanowski, Cosmetic Science and Technology Series, vol 21. Marcel Dekker, Inc., New-york, pp 139-166 Official Journal of the European Union, 2009.22.12.2009, L 342/59
48. Personal Care Formulas (2006) Second edition. Allured Publishing Corporation, Carol Stream, USA, Cosmetics & Toiletries
49. Personal Care Products Council, 2015. Available from: . [15 March 2015]
50. Priyadardshani I, Rath B (2012) Commercial and industrial applications of micro-algae-A review. J Algal Biomass Utilization 3(4): 89-100 Review expert panel, The 2009 Cosmetic Ingredient review expert panel, Final Report of the Cosmetic ingredient, Amended Safety Assessment of Cellulose and Related Polymers as used in Cosmetics, March 23, 2009
51. Rinaudo M (2006) Chitin and chitosan: properties and applications. Prog Polym Sci 31: 603-632
52. Roso A, Brinet R (2004) Rheology and texture analysis used together to improve raw material choices. Cosmet Toiletries 119: 53-60
53. Roy A, Comesse S, Grisel M, Hucher N, Souguir Z, Renou F (2014) Hydrophobically modified xanthan: an amphiphilic but not associative polymer. Biomacromolecules 15(4): 1160-1170
54. Rozanska S, Broniarz-Press L, Rosanski J, Mitkowski PT, Ochowiak M, Woziwodzki S (2013) Extensional viscosity of w/o emulsions stabilized by polysaccharides measured on the opposed-nozzle device. Food Hydrocolloids 32: 130-142
55. Smewing J, Jachowicz J (2007) Texture analysis to select packaging and formulate hair care products. Cosmet Toiletries 122: 107-112
56. Sun W, Sun D, Wei Y, Liu S, Zhang S (2007) Oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose: adsorption and thickening effect. J Colloid Interface Sci 311: 228-236
57. Tadros TF (2008) Colloid aspects of cosmetic formulations with particular reference to polymeric surfactants. In: Tadros TF (ed) Colloids in cosmetics and personal care, colloids and interface science series, vol 4. Wiley
58. Tadros TF (2004) Application of rheology for assessment and prediction of the long-term physical stability of emulsions. Adv Colloid Interface Sci 108-109: 227-258
59. Teglia A, Secchi G (1999) Proteins in cosmetic. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetic and personal care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker
60. Thoorens G, Krier F, Leclercq B, Carlin B, Evrard B (2014) Microcrystalline cellulose, a direct compression binder in a quality by design environment-A review. Int J Pharm 473: 64-72
61. Tranchant J-F, Poulin A, Grossiord J-L (2001) Des crèmes au vernis à ongles. In: Comprendre la rhéologie: de la circulation du sang à la prise du béton. EDP Sciences. ISBN 2-86883-546-5
62. Van Bogaert I, De Maeseneire S, Vandamme E (2009) Extracellular polysaccharides produced by yeasts and yeast-like fungi. In: Satyanarayana T, Kunze G (eds) Yeast biotechnology: diversity and applications. Springer, pp 651-672
63. Veeruraj A, Arumugam M, Balasubramanian T (2013) Isolation and characterization of thermostable collagen from the marine eel-fish (Evenchelysmacrura). Process Biochem 48: 1592-1602
64. Vianna-Filho RP, Petkowickz CLO, Silveira JLM (2013) Rheological characterization of O/W emulsions incorporated with neutral and charged polysaccharides. Carbohydr Polym 93: 266-272
65. Wang H-M, Chen C-C, Huynh P, Chang J-S (2014) Exploring the potential of using algae in cosmetics. Bioressour Technol. doi: 10.1016/j.biortech.2014.12.001
66. Winnick FM (1999) Elements of polymer scien. In: Goddard ED, Gruber JV (eds) Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetic and personal care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 22. Marcel Dekker
67. Wong M (1997) Chapter 3: cleansing of hair. In: Johnson DH (ed) Hair and hair care, cosmetic science and technology series, vol 17. Marcel Dekker
68. Ye A, Hemar Y, Singh H (2004) Enhancement of coalescence by xanthan addition to oil-inwater emulsions formed with extensively hydrolysed whey proteins. Food Hydrocolloids 18: 737-746
69. Zecher D, Gerrish T (1999) Cellulose derivatives in thickening and gelling agents for food, 2nd edn. Edited by Ian Imeson, Aspen Publication