Pasteurizing China's grasslands and sealing in terroir

American Anthropologist

Volumn 115, Issue 3, 2013, Pages 437-451

  Tracy, Megan ^a  

^a JAMES MADISON UNIVERSITY   (United States)

Author keywords

China; Circulation; Dairy; Technoscience; Terroir

Indexed keywords

EID: 84882676432     PISSN: 00027294     EISSN: 15481433     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/aman.12027     Document Type: Article

References (112)

1. Anagnost, Ann 1997 National Past-Times: Narrative, Representation, and Power. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
2. Anderson, E. N. 1988 The Food of China. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
3. Appadurai, Arjun, ed. 1986 The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
4. Asian Development Bank 2002 Strategic Development Outline for Economic Cooperation between the People's Republic of China and Mongolia. Project Report, 110501. Manila: Asian Development Bank.
5. Auldist, Martin J., Stephen Coats, Brian Sutherland, John Hardham, Graham McDowell, and Graeme Rogers 1996 Effect of Somatic Cell Count and Stage of Lactation on the Quality and Storage Life of Ultra High Temperature Milk. Journal of Dairy Research 63(3):377-386.
6. Bai, Junfei, Thomas I. Wahl, and Jill J. McCluskey 2008 Fluid Milk Consumption in Urban Qingdao, China. Australian Journal of Agricultural and Resource Economics 52(2):133-147.
7. Barboza, David 2003 The Wisconsin of China: Got Milk, but Hold the Cheese. New York Times, April 8. http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/08/business/the-wisconsin-of-china-got-milk-buthold-the-cheese.html?pagewanted=all&src=pm, accessed April 12, 2004.
8. Barham, Elizabeth 2003 Translating Terroir: The Global Challenge of French AOC Labeling. Journal of Rural Studies 19(1):127-138.
9. Bashaw, Bradley M. 2008 Geographical Indications in China: Why Protect GIs with Both Trademark Law and AOC-Type Legislation? Pacific Rim and Policy Journal 17(1):73-102.
10. Bauer, Alexander A. 2009 The Terroir of Culture: Long-Term History, Heritage Preservation, and the Specificities of Place. Heritage Management 2(1):81-103.
11. Bean, Casey E., and Jianping Zhang 2003 People's Republic of China-Dairy and Products. Annual Report, CH3127. Beijing: U.S. Department of Agriculture Foreign Agricultural Service.
12. Bérard, Laurence 2005 Local Food between Nature and Culture: From Neighbor Farm to Terroir. Interview of Laurence Bérard. Anthropology of Food 4:2-5.
13. Borchigud, Wurlig 1996 Transgressing Ethnic and National Boundaries: Contemporary "Inner Mongolian" Identities in China. In Negotiating Ethnicities in Taiwan and China. China Research Monograph. Melissa J. Brown, ed. Pp. 160-182. Berkeley: University of California Press.
14. Bowen, Sarah 2010 Development from Within? The Potential for Geographical Indications in the Global South. Journal of World Intellectual Property 13(2):231-252.
15. Brandstädter, Susanne 2007 Transitional Spaces: Postsocialism as a Cultural Process: Introduction. Critique of Anthropology 27(2):131-145.
16. Bulag, Uradyan E. 1998 Nationalism and Hybridity in Mongolia. Oxford: Clarendon.
17. Bulag, Uradyan E. 1999 Models and Moralities: The Parable of the Two "Heroic Little Sisters of the Grasslands." China Journal 42:21-41.
18. Cavanaugh, Jillian R. 2007 Making Salami, Producing Bergamo: The Transformation of Value. Ethnos 72(2): 149-172.
19. Chang, K. C., ed. 1977 Food in Chinese Culture. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press.
20. China Green Food Development Center N.d. China Green Food Development Center. Brochure. Beijing: China Green Food Development Center.
21. Clare, D. A., W. S. Bang, G. Cartwright, M. Drake, P. Coronel, and J. Simunovic 2005 Comparison of Sensory, Microbiological, and Biochemical Parameters of Microwave versus Indirect UHT Fluid Skim Milk during Storage. Journal of Dairy Science 88(12):4172-4182.
22. Contarini, Giovanna, Milena Povolo, Riccardo Leardi, and Piero Maria Toppino 1997 Influence of Heat Treatment on the Volatile Compounds of Milk. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 45(8):3171-3177.
23. Coombe, Rosemary J. 1996 Embodied Trademarks: Mimesis and Alterity on American Commercial Frontiers. Cultural Anthropology 11(2):202-224.
24. Cui, Guowen, and Gang Li 2006 The Development of the Dairy Industry and the Improvement of the Grasslands in North China. Bulletin of the Faculty of Agriculture, Niigata University 58(2):119-124.
25. Delman, Jørgen 2003 Cool Thinking? The Role of the State in Shaping China's Dairy Sector and Its Knowledge System. China Information 17(2):1-35.
26. Dirlik, Arif 2002 Modernity as History: Post-Revolutionary China, Globalization and the Question of Modernity. Social History 27(1):16-39.
27. Drake, Mary Ann 2004 Defining Dairy Flavors. Journal of Dairy Science 87(4):777-784.
28. Drake, Mary Ann, and G. V. Civille 2003 Flavor Lexicons. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 2(1):33-40.
29. Dunn, Elizabeth 2008 Postsocialist Spores: Disease, Bodies, and the State in the Republic of Georgia. American Ethnologist 35(2):243-258.
30. Feld, Steven 1996 Waterfalls of Song: An Acoustemology of Place Resounding in Bosavi, Papua New Guinea. In Senses of Place. Advanced Seminar Series. Steven Feld and Keith H. Basso, eds. Pp. 91-135. Santa Fe: School of American Research.
31. Forristal, Linda 2004 Ultra-Pasteurized Milk. The Weston A. Price Foundation. http://www.westonaprice.org/modern-foods/ultra-pasteurized-milk, accessed January 23, 2012.
32. Foster, Robert J. 2007 The Work of the New Economy: Consumers, Brands, and Value Creation. Cultural Anthropology 22(4):707-731.
33. Foster, Robert J. 2008 Commodities, Brands, Love and Kula. Anthropological Theory 8(1):9-25.
34. Fuller, Frank, John Beghin, and Scott Rozelle 2004 Urban Demand for Dairy Products in China: Evidence from New Survey Data. Working Paper, 04-WP 380. Ames: Iowa State University, Center for Agricultural and Rural Development.
35. Fuller, Frank, Jikun Huang, Hengyun Ma, and Scott Rozelle 2005 The Rapid Rise of China's Dairy Sector: Factors behind the Growth in Demand and Supply. Working Paper, 05-WP 394. Ames: Iowa State University, Center for Agricultural and Rural Development.
36. Gade, Daniel 2004 Tradition, Territory, and Terroir in French Viniculture: Cassis, France, and Appellation Contrôlée. Annals of the Association of American Geographers 94(4):848-867.
37. Gilette, Maris Boyd 2000 Between Mecca and Beijing: Modernization and Consumption among Urban Chinese Muslims. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
38. Grasseni, Cristina 2003 Packaging Skills: Callibrating Cheese to the Global Market. In Commodifying Everything. Susan Strasser, ed. Pp. 259-288. New York: Routledge.
39. Grasseni, Cristina 2005 Designer Cows: The Practice of Cattle Breeding between Skill and Standardization. Society and Animals 13(1):33-50.
40. Greenfield, Heather 2003 Can Chinese Children Drink Milk? Nutrition Today 38(3):77-81.
41. Guy, Kolleen 2003 When Champagne Became French: Wine and the Making of a National Identity. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins Press.
42. Harrell, Stevan, ed. 1995 Cultural Encounters on China's Ethnic Frontiers. Seattle: University of Washington Press.
43. Heath, Deborah, and Anne Meneley 2007 Techne, Technoscience, and the Circulation of Comestible Commodities: An Introduction. American Anthropologist 109(4):593-602.
44. Heller, Chaia 2007 Techne versus Technoscience: Divergent (and Ambiguous) Notions of Food "Quality" in the French Debate over GM Crops. American Anthropologist 109(4):603-615.
45. Hu, Dinghuan 2009 China: Dairy Product Quality as the New Industry Driver. RAP Publication, 2009/02. Bangkok: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Regional Office for Asia and the Pacific.
46. Huang, Hsing-Tsung 2000 Fermentations and Food Science. In Part 5 of Biology and Biological Technology, Volume 6 of Science and Civilization in China. Joseph Needham, ed. Pp. 248-256. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
47. Huang, Jikun, Yunhua Wu, Zhijian Yang, Scott Rozelle, Jacinto Fabiosa, and Fengxia Dong 2008 Farmer Participation, the Dairy Industry, and the Rise of Dairy Production in China. Working Paper, 05-WP 394. Ames: Iowa State University, Center for Agricultural and Rural Development.
48. Ilbery, Brian, and Moya Kneafsey 1998 Product and Place: Promoting Quality Products and Services in the Lagging Rural Regions of the EU. European Journal of Urban and Regional Studies 5(4):329-341.
49. Inner Mongolia Green Food Development Center 2002 Yituo neimenggu tese he youshi jiakuai fazhan luse shipin chanye [Backing Inner Mongolia's unique characteristics and superiority to accelerate the development of the Green Foods industry]. Huhhot: Inner Mongolia Green Food Development Center.
50. Josling, Tim 2006 The War on Terroir: Geographical Indications as a Transatlantic Trade Conflict. Journal of Agricultural Economics 57(3):337-363.
51. Keane, Webb 2003 Semiotics and the Social Analysis of Material Things. Language & Communication 23(3-4):400-425.
52. Keane, Webb 2005 Signs Are Not the Garb of Meaning: On the Social Analysis of Material Things. In Materiality. Daniel Miller, ed. Pp. 182-205. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
53. Khan, Almaz 1996 Who Are the Mongols? State, Ethnicity, and the Politics of Representation in the PRC. In Negotiating Ethnicities in China and Taiwan. China Research Monograph. Melissa J. Brown, ed. Pp. 125-159. Berkeley: University of California Press.
54. Klein, Jakob 2009 Creating Ethical Food Consumers? Promoting Organic Foods in Urban Southwest China. Social Anthropology 17(1):74-89.
55. Kopytoff, Igor 1986 The Cultural Biography of Things: Commoditization as Process. In The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Arjun Appadurai, ed. Pp. 64-91. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
56. Landsberger, Stefan 2001 Learning by What Example? Educational Propaganda in Twenty-First-Century China. Critical Asian Studies 33(4):541-571.
57. Law, Laura 2001 Home Cooking: Filipino Women and Geographies of the Senses in Hong Kong. Ecumene 8(3):264-283.
58. Li, Yu 2000 Representations of Ethnic Minorities in Chinese Propaganda Posters, 1957-1983. MCLC Resource Center. http://mclc.osu.edu/rc/pubs/minzu, accessed April 1, 2007.
59. Litzinger, Ralph A. 2000 Other Chinas: The Yao and the Politics of National Belonging. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
60. Liu, Lianfu, ed. 1998 Lüse shipin daolun [An introduction to Green Foods]. Beijing: Enterprise Management Publishing House.
61. Manning, Paul 2010 The Semiotics of Brand. Annual Review of Anthropology 39:33-49.
62. Manning, Paul, and Ann Uplisashvili 2007 "Our Beer": Ethnographic Brands in Postsocialist Georgia. American Anthropologist 109(4):626-641.
63. Meneley, Anne 2007 Like an Extra Virgin. American Anthropologist 109(4):678-687.
64. Meneley, Anne 2008 Oleo-Signs and Quali-Signs: The Qualities of Olive Oil. Ethnos 73(3):303-326.
65. Mengniu Dairy Industry (Group) N.d.a 1999-2003 Mengniu Ruye chanpin shouce [1999-2003 handbook of products of Mengniu Dairy]. Huhhot, China: Inner Mongolia Mengniu Dairy Industry (Group) Co. Ltd.
66. Mengniu Dairy Industry (Group) N.d.b "Shiji Mengniu zouxiang shijie" daxing qingzhu huodong [Major celebration of "century-long Mengniu marches into the world"]. Beijing: Beijing Renci Tezhiye.
67. Moore, Robert E. 2003 From Genericide to Viral Marketing: On "Brand." Language & Communication 23(3-4):331-357.
68. Morinaga Nutritional Foods 2007 Asceptic Packaging. Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. http://www.morinu.com/tips/tofutips_aseptic.aspx, accessed March 31, 2011.
69. Muchnik, José, Estelle Biénabe, and Claire Cerdan 2005 Food Identity/Food Quality: Insights from the "Coalho" Cheese in the Northeast of Brazil. Anthropology of Food 4:2-17.
70. Munn, Nancy D. 1992[1986] The Fame of Gawa: A Symbolic Study of Value Transformation in a Massim (Papua New Guinea) Society. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
71. Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development 2005 OECD Review of Agricultural Policies: China. Paris: Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development.
72. Palmié, Stephan 2009 Intangible Cultural Property, Semiotic Ideology, and the Vagaries of Ethnoculinary Recognition. African Arts 42(4):54-61.
73. Paolisso, Michael 2007 Taste the Traditions: Crabs, Crab Cakes, and the Chesapeake Bay Blue Crab Fishery. American Anthropologist 109(4):654-665.
74. Parrott, Nicholas, Natasha Wilson, and Jonathan Murdoch 2002 Spatializing Quality: Regional Protection and the Alternative Geography of Food. European Urban and Regional Studies 9(3):241-261.
75. Paxson, Heather 2008 Post-Pasteurian Cultures: The Microbiopolitics of Raw-Milk Cheese in the United States. Cultural Anthropology 23(1):15-47.
76. Paxson, Heather 2010 Locating Value in Artisan Cheese: Reverse Engineering Terroir for New-World Landscapes. American Anthropologist 112(3):444-457.
77. Pratt, Jeff 2007 Food Values: The Local and the Authentic. Critique of Anthropology 27(3):285-300.
78. Qiao, Guanghua, Ting Guo, and K. K. Klein 2010 Melamine in Chinese Milk Products and Consumer Confidence. Appetite 55(2):190-195.
79. Ramsey, J., and K. Swartzel 1984 Effect of Ultra High Temperature Processing and Storage Conditions on Rates of Sedimentation and Fat Separation of Aseptically Packaged Milk. Journal of Food Science 49(1):257-262.
80. Renne, Elisha 2007 Mass Producing Food Traditions for West Africans Abroad. American Anthropologist 109(4):616-625.
81. Rodríguez-Gómez, Guadalupe 1999 Weaving Quality and Power: The Domestication of Global Conventions among Dairy Farmers in Western Mexico. Urban Anthropology and Studies of Cultural Systems and World Economic Development 28(3-4):327-371.
82. Rong, Jiang 2009 Wolf Totem. Howard Goldblatt, trans. New York: Penguin.
83. Sage, Colin 2007 "Bending Science to Match Their Convictions": Hygienist Conceptions of Food Safety as a Challenge to Alternative Food Enterprises. In Alternative Food Geographies: Representation and Practice. Damian Maye, Lewis Holloway, and Moya Kneafsey, eds. Pp. 203-222. Bingley, UK: Emerald.
84. Sai, Fu, and Mai Lisi, dirs. 2002 Tianshang caoyuan [Heavenly grassland]. 110 min. Huhhot, China: Inner Mongolia Film Studio.
85. Schein, Louisa 2000 Minority Rules: The Miao and the Feminine in China's Cultural Politics. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
86. Stanford, Lois 2002 Constructing "Quality": The Political Economy of Standards in Mexico's Avocado Industry. Agriculture and Human Values 19(4):293-310.
87. Sutton, David 2010 Food and the Senses. Annual Review of Anthropology 39(1):209-223.
88. Tam, Waikeung, and Dali Yang 2005 Food Safety and the Development of Regulatory Institutions in China. Asian Perspectives 29(4):5-36.
89. Tetra Pak N.d. Product Protection. http://www.tetrapak.com/us/aworldofgood/productprotection/pages/productprotection.aspx, accessed November 24, 2012.
90. Thiers, Paul 1999 Green Food: The Political Economy of Organic Agriculture in China. Ph.D. dissertation, Department of Political Science, University of Oregon.
91. Tracy, Megan 2005 Food, Environment and Health Post-SARS: Corporate Expectations and Participation. China Environment Series (Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars) 7:61-65.
92. Tracy, Megan 2008 Anticipating the Chinese Century: Risks and Responsibilities in China's "Green Food" Industry and the SARS Epidemic. Ph.D. dissertation, Department of Anthropology, University of Pennsylvania.
93. Trubek, Amy 2004 Incorporation Terroir: L'Affaire Mondavi Reconsidered. Gastronomica 4(3):90-99.
94. Trubek, Amy 2008 The Taste of Place. Berkeley: University of California Press.
95. Trubek, Amy, and Sarah Bowen 2008 Creating the Taste of Place in the United States: Can We Learn from the French? GeoJournal 73(1):23-30.
96. Urban, Greg 2001 Metaculture. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.
97. Wang, Guihong 2010 Jinhua Ham, China. RAP Publication, 2010/04. Bangkok: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.
98. Wang, Xiaobing, and Irina Kireeva 2010 GI Protection in China: New Measures for Administration of Geographical Indications of Agricultural Products. Journal of Intellectual Property Law & Practice 5(11):778-790.
99. Wang, Zhigang, Yanna Mao, and Fred Gale 2008 Chinese Consumer Demand for Food Safety Attributes in Milk Products. Food Policy 33(1):27-36.
100. Wang, Qingbin, Robert Parsons, and Guangxuan Zhang 2010 China's Dairy Markets: Trends, Disparities, and Implications for Trade. China Agricultural Economic Review 2(3):356-371.
101. Wiley, Andrea 2007a The Globalization of Cow's Milk Production and Consumption: Biocultural Perspectives. Ecology of Food and Nutrition 46(3-4):281-312.
102. Wiley, Andrea 2007b Transforming Milk in a Global Economy. American Anthropologist 109(4):666-677.
103. Williams, Dee Mack 2000 Representations of Nature on the Mongolian Steppe: An Investigation of Scientific Knowledge Construction. American Anthropologist 102(3):503-519.
104. Williams, Dee Mack 2002 Beyond Great Walls: Environment, Identity, and Development on the Chinese Grasslands of Inner Mongolia. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press.
105. Wilson, James 1998 Terroir: The Role of Geology, Climate, and Culture in the Making of French Wines. Berkeley: University of California Press.
106. Wulantuya, Mangui Liu, and Ming Yu, eds. 2001 Zhongguo Xibu-Neimenggu [Western China-Inner Mongolia]. Beijing: China Intercontinental.
107. Xu, Jia 2006 A Battle between Geography Indication and Trademark. Cornell Law School Graduate Student Papers, 16. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Law School.
108. Yang, Dali 2009 Regulatory Learning and Its Discontents in China: Promise and Tragedy at the State Food and Drug Administration. In Regulation in Asia: Pushing Back on Globalization. J. Gillespie and R. Peerenboom, eds. Pp. 139-162. Oxford: Routledge.
109. Yang, Yuexin, Mei He, Hongmei Cui, Lihua Bian, and Zhu Wang 2000 The Prevalence of Lactase Deficiency and Lactose Intolerance in Chinese Children of Different Ages. Chinese Medical Journal 113(12):1129-1132.
110. Zhang, Li 2006 Contesting Spatial Modernity in Late-Socialist China. Current Anthropology 47(3):461-484.
111. Zhang, Caiping, Junfei Bai, Bryan Lohmar, and Jikun Huang 2010 How Do Consumers Determine the Safety of Milk in Beijing, China? China Economic Review 21:S45-S54.
112. Zhou, Zhangyue, Weiming Tian, and Junlin Zhou 2002 The Emerging Dairy Economy in China: Production, Consumption and Trade Prospects. Australasian Agribusiness Review 10:1-17.