Fatty acid profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Volumn 38, Issue 4, 2016, Pages 382-388

  Bialek, A ^a   Bialek, M ^b   Jelinska, M ^a   Tokarz, A ^a  

^a MEDICAL UNIVERSITY OF WARSAW   (Poland)

^b WARSAW UNIVERSITY OF LIFE SCIENCES   (Poland)

Author keywords

chemical analysis; cluster analysis (CA); cosmetic oils; fatty acid composition; safety testing; statistics

Indexed keywords

CARROT SEED OIL; COSMETIC; FATTY ACID; HYDROPEROXIDE; LINOLEIC ACID; LINOLENIC ACID; MONOUNSATURATED FATTY ACID; OLEIC ACID; PERILLA OIL; PEROXIDE; POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACID; RASPBERRY SEED OIL; SATURATED FATTY ACID; SEA BUCKTHOM OIL; UNCLASSIFIED DRUG; VEGETABLE OIL; WALNUT OIL;

ARTICLE; CLINICAL EFFECTIVENESS; CLUSTER ANALYSIS; FATTY ACID ANALYSIS; GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY; LIPID COMPOSITION; LIPID OXIDATION; POLAND; SAFETY;

EID: 84978216539     PISSN: 01425463     EISSN: 14682494     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/ics.12301     Document Type: Article

References (37)

1. Aburjai, T. and Natsheh, F.M. Plant used in comestics. Phytother. Res. 17, 987–1000 (2003).
2. Burnett, C. and Fiume, M. Plant-derived fatty acid oil as used in cosmetics, Final Report. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Washington (2011).
3. Nicolaou, A. Eicosanoids in skin inflammation. PLEFA 88, 131–138 (2013).
4. Spector, A.A. and Yorek, M.A. Membrane lipid composition and cellular function. J. Lipid Res. 26, 1015–1035 (1985).
5. Wertz, P.W. Lipids and barrier function of the skin. Acta Derm. Venereol. Suppl. 208, 7–11 (2000).
6. Muggli, R. Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. Int J Cosmetic Sci. 27, 243–249 (2005).
7. Mahoney, N. and Molyneux, R.J. Rapid analytical method for the determination of aflatoxins in plant-derived dietary supplements and cosmetic oils. J. Agric. Food Chem. 58, 4065–4070 (2010).
8. Vermaak, I., Kamatou, G.P.P., Komane-Mofokeng, B., Viljoen, A.M. and Beckett, K. African seed oils of commercial importance – cosmetic applications. S. Afr. J. Bot. 77, 920–933 (2011).
9. Antignac, E., Nohynek, G.J., Re, T., Clouzeau, J. and Toutain, H. Safety of botanical ingredients in personal care products/cosmetics. Food Chem. Toxicol. 49, 324–341 (2011).
10. Yun, J.-M. and Surh, J. Fatty acid composition as a predictor for the oxidation stability of Korean vegetable oils with or without induced oxidative stress. Prev Nutr Food Sci. 17, 158–165 (2012).
11. ISO 3960:2012. Animal and Vegetable Fats and Oils. Determination of Peroxide Value. International Organization for Standarization, Geneva, Switzerland (2012).
12. ISO 660:2010. Animal and Vegetable Fats and Oils. Determination of Acidic Value and Acidity. International Organization for Standardization, Geneva, Switzerland (2010)
13. Özcan, M.M., Ünver, A., Erkan, E. and Arslan, D. Characteristics of some almond kernel and oils. Sci. Hortic. 127, 330–333 (2011).
14. Górnaś, P., Siger, A., Juhŋeviča, K., Lācis, G., Šnē, E. and Segliŋa, D. Old-pressed Japanese quince (Chaenomeles japonica (Thunb.) Lindl. ex Spach) seed oil as a rich source of α-tocopherol, carotenoids and phenolics: a comparison of the composition and antioxidant activity with other plant oils. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 116, 563–570 (2014).
15. Hassanien, M.M.M., Abdel-Razek, A.G., Rudzińska, M., Siger, A., Ratusz, K. and Przybylski, R. Phytochemical contents and oxidative stability of oils from non-traditional sources. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 116, 1563–1571 (2014).
16. Özcan, M.M. and Chalchat, J.C. Chemical composition of carrot seeds (Daucus carota L.) cultivated in Turkey: characterization of the seed oil and essential oil. Grasas Aceites 58, 359–365 (2007).
17. Kaur, C.D. and Saraf, S. In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics. Pharmacognosy Res. 2, 22–25 (2010).
18. Dubois, V., Breton, S., Linder, M., Fann, J. and Parmentier, M. Fatty acid profile of 80 vegetable oils with regard to their nutritional potential. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 109, 710–732 (2007).
19. Dulf, F.V. Fatty acids in berry lipids of six sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L., subspecies carpatia) cultivars grown in Romania. Chem. Cent. J. 6, 106 (2012).
20. Wang, Y., Sun, D., Chen, H., Qian, L. and Xu, P. Fatty acid composition and antioxidant activity of tea (Camellia sinensis L.) seed oil extracted by optimized supercritical carbon dioxide. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 12, 7708–7719 (2011).
21. Yetim, H., Sagdic, O. and Ozturk, I. Fatty acid composition of cold press oils of seven edible plant seeds grown in Turkey. Chem. Nat. Compd. 44, 634–636 (2008).
22. Ahmad, Z. The use and properties of almond oil. Complement Ther Clin Pract. 16, 10–12 (2010).
23. Charrouf, Z. and Guillaume, D. Argan oil, the 35-years-of-research product. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 116, 1316–1321 (2014).
24. Monfalouti, H.E., Guillaume, D., Denhez, C. and Charrouf, Z. Therapeutic potential of argan oil: a review. J. Pharm. Pharmacol. 62, 1669–1675 (2010).
25. Leon-Camacho, M., Garcis-Gonzalez, D.L. and Aparicio, R. A detailed and comprehensive study of amaranth (Amaranthuscruentus L.) oil fatty profile. Eur. Food Res. Technol., 213, 349–355 (2001).
26. Eisenmenger, M. and Dunford, N.T. Bioactive components of commercial and supercritical carbon dioxide processed wheat germ oil. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 85, 55–61 (2008).
27. Kowalska, M., Mendrycka, M., Zbikowska, A. and Stawarz, S. Enzymatically interesterified fats based on mutton tallow and walnut oil suitable for cosmetic emulsions. Int J Cosm Sci. 37, 82–91 (2015).
28. Van Hoed, V., de Clercq, N., Echim, C., Andjelkovic, M., Leber, E., Dewettinck, K. and Verhe, R. Berry seeds: a source of specialty oils with high content of bioactives and nutritional value. J. Food Lipids 16, 33–49 (2009).
29. Parry, J., Su, L., Luther, M., Zhou, K., Yurawecz, M.P., Whittaker, P. and Yu, L. Fatty acid composition and antioxidant properties of cold-pressed marionberry, boysen berry, red raspberry and blueberry seed oils. J AgricFood Chem. 53, 566–573 (2005).
30. Szentmihalyi, K., Vinkler, P., Lakatos, B., Illes, V. and Then, M. Rose hip (Rosa canina L.) oil obtained from wast hip seeds by different extraction methods. Bioresour. Technol. 82(2), 195–201 (2002).
31. Oomah, B.D., Ladet, S., Godfrey, D.V., Liang, J. and Girard, B. Characteristics of raspberry (Rubus ideaus L.) seed oil. Food Chem. 69, 187–193 (2000).
32. Esterbauer, H. Cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of lipids-oxidation products. Am. J. Clin. Nutr. 57, 779S–786S (1993).
33. Marquez-Ruiz, G., Garcia-Martiznez, M.C. and Holgado, F. Changes and effects of dietary oxidized lipids in the gastrointestinal tract. Lipids Insights 2, 11–19 (2008).
34. Warner, K. Impact of high-temperature food processing on fats and oils. In: Impact of Processing on Food Safety (Jackson, L.S., Knize, M.G. and Morgan, J.N. eds.) pp. 1–263. Kluwer Academic/Plenum Publishers, New York, (1999).
35. Dobarganes, C., Marquez-Ruiz, G. and Velasco, J. Interactions between fat and food during deep-frying. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 102, 521–528 (2000).
36. Choe, E. and Min, D.B. Chemistry of deep-fat frying oils. J. Food Sci. 72, R77–R86 (2007).
37. Fats, Oils and Related Products. The Codex Alimentarius, Rome, 2001. Available at: http://www.fao.org/docrep/004/y2774e/y2774e04.htm#TopOfPage