Bad bread and the “outrageous drunkenness of the Turks”: Food and identity in the accounts of early modern European travelers to the Ottoman Empire

Journal of World History

Volumn 25, Issue 2-3, 2014, Pages 203-228

  Dursteler, Eric R ^a  

^a BRIGHAM YOUNG UNIVERSITY   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

CULTURAL HISTORY; FOOD; FOOD CONSUMPTION; HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE; IDENTIFICATION METHOD; MEDITERRANEAN ENVIRONMENT; OTTOMAN EMPIRE;

EUROPE;

EID: 84928600649     PISSN: 10456007     EISSN: 15278050     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1353/jwh.2014.0023     Document Type: Article

References (227)

1. On this extensive body of travel narratives, see Stéphane Yerasimos, Les voyageurs dans l'Empire ottoman (XIVe-XVIe siècles) (Ankara: Imprimerie de la société turque d'histoire, 1991).
2. Elisabetta Borromeo, Voyageurs occidentaux dans l'Empire ottoman, 1600-1644, 2 vols. (Paris: Maisonneuve and Larose, 2007).
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6. A. Caracciolo Aricò, "Il nuovo mondo e l'umanesimo: immagini e miti dell'editoria veneziana," in L'impatto della scoperta dell'America nella cultura veneziana, Atti del I Convegno Colombiano, ed. Angela Caracciolo Aricò (Rome: Bulzoni editore, 1990), p. 25.
7. Almut Höfert, "'Europe' and 'Religion' in the Framework of Sixteenth-Century Relations between Christian Powers and the Ottoman Empire," in Reflections on Europe: Defining a Political Order in Time and Space, eds. Hans-Åke Persson and Bo Stråth (Brussels: Peter Lang, 2007), p. 223.
8. H. R. Trevor-Roper, "A Case of Coexistence: Christendom and the Turks," in Historical Essays (New York: Harper and Row, 1957), p. 173.
9. Kenneth M. Setton, Western Hostility to Islam and Prophecies of Turkish Doom (Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society, 1992), p. 46.
10. Gábor Kármán, "An Ally of Limited Acceptability: Johannes Bocatius and the Image of the Turk in Hungary," in Perspectives on Ottoman Studies: Papers from the 18th Symposium of the International Committee of Pre-Ottoman and Ottoman Studies, eds. Ekrem Čaušević, Nenad Moačanin, and Vjeran Kursar (Berlin: Lit Verlag, 2010), p. 974.
11. Almut Höfert, Den Feind beschreiben: "Türkengefahr" und europäisches Wissen über das Osmanische Reich 1450- 1600 (Frankfurt am Main: Campus-Verlag, 2003), pp. 238-239.
12. Though not the focus of this essay, there is ample evidence of Ottoman travelers and observers also using foodways in a similar fashion. On this, see Eric R. Dursteler, "Infidel Foods: Food and Identity in Early Modern Ottoman Travel Literature," Journal of Ottoman Studies 39 (2012): 143-160.
13. Joan-Pau Rubiés, "Instructions for Travellers: Teaching the Eye to See," History and Anthropology 9 (1996): 140-151.
14. Anna Suranyi, "Seventeenth-Century English Travel Literature and the Significance of Foreign Foodways," Food and Foodways 14 (2006): 127.
15. For examples of this literature, see Certaine briefe, and speciall instructions for gentlemen, merchants, students, souldiers, marriners, &c. employed in seruices abrode, or anie way occasioned to conuerse in the kingdomes, and gouernementes of forren princes (London: John Woolfe, 1589), pp. 8-11.
16. Thomas Palmer, An essay of the meanes how to make our trauailes, into forraine countries, the more profitable and honourable (London: H L for Mathew Lownes, 1606), p. 91.
17. Robert Devereux, Profitable instructions; describing what speciall obseruations are to be taken by trauellers in all nations, states and countries; pleasant and profitable (London: Beniamin Fisher, 1633), pp. 1-4.
18. Also, Baudelot de Dairval, De l'Utilité des Voyages et de l'Avantage que la recherche des Antiquitez procure aux Sçavans, 2 vols. (Paris: Pierre Aubouin and Pierre Emery, 1686).
19. Bernardo Bizoni, Diario di viaggio di Vincenzo Giustiniani, ed. Barbara Agosti (Bologna: Quaderni del battello Ebbro, 1995), p. 173.
20. David Bell and Gill Valentine, eds., Consuming Geographies: We Are What We Eat (London: Routledge, 1997).
21. Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, Physiologie du Gout, ou Meditations de Gastronomie Transcendante (Paris: Flammarion, 1982), p. 19. All translations from non-English language sources are mine, unless otherwise indicated.
22. Kyla Wazana Tompkin, Racial Indigestion: Eating Bodies in the 19th Century (New York: New York University Press, 2012), p. 185.
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28. Anderson, Everyone Eats, pp. 6, 114, 125.
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30. Yerasimos, Les voyageurs dans l'Empire ottoman, pp. 224-225.
31. The first French edition was published as Les quatre premiers livres des navigations et peregrinations orientales (Lyon: Guillaume Rouille, 1567-1568).
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39. Peter Garnsey, Food and Society in Classical Antiquity (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1999), p. 65.
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43. Shaw, "Eaters of Flesh, Drinkers of Milk," p. 25.
44. Garnsey, Food and Society in Classical Antiquity, p. 68.
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48. Rebecca Earle, The Body of the Conquistador: Food, Race and the Colonial Experience in Spanish America, 1492-1700 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2012), pp. 156-186.
49. Jeffrey M. Pilcher, ¡Que Vivan Los Tamales!: Food and the Making of Mexican Identity (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1998), pp. 7-44.
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56. James Hankins, "Renaissance Crusaders: Humanist Crusade Literature in the Age of Mehmed II," Dumbarton Oaks Papers 49 (1995): 112.
57. Meserve, Empires of Islam, pp. 69, 75, 81-83, 116.
58. Bisaha, Creating East and West, pp. 76-77.
59. Wunder, "Western Travelers, Eastern Antiquities," pp. 91-92.
60. Jás Elsner and Joan-Pau Rubiés, "Introduction," in Voyages and Visions: Towards a Cultural History of Travel (London: Reaktion Books, 1999), p. 46.
61. Jonathan Haynes, The Humanist As Traveler: George Sandy's Relation of a Journey Begun A.D. 1610 (Cranbury, N.J.: Fairleigh Dickinson University Press, 1986).
62. Luigi Bassano, Costumi et i modi particolari della vita de' Turchi (Rome: Antonio Blando Asolano, 1545; repr. Munich: Casa editrice Max Hueber, 1963), p. 80.
63. Anna Suranyi, The Genius of the English Nation: Travel Writing and National Identity in Early Modern England (Newark: University of Delaware Press, 2008), p. 96.
64. Chaudhuri, Asia before Europe, p. 173.
65. Kármán, "An Ally of Limited Acceptability," pp. 974-975.
66. Aaron Hill, A full and just account of the present state of the Ottoman empire in all its branches… (London: John Mayo, 1709), p. 118.
67. Ellis Veryard, An account of divers choice remarks,… taken in a journey through the Low-Countries, France, Italy, and part of Spain; with the isles of Sicily and Malta. As also, a voyage to the Levant… (London: S. Smith and B. Walford, 1701), p. 336.
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144. Shaw, "Eaters of Flesh, Drinkers of Milk," p. 24.
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155. Suranyi, The Genius of the English Nation, p. 86.
156. Eric R. Dursteler, "On Bazaars and Battlefields: Recent Scholarship on Mediterranean Cultural Contacts," Journal of Early Modern History 15 (2011): 413-434.
157. Maxime Rodinson, Europe and the Mystique of Islam (Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1987), p. 8.
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160. Aslı Çırakman, From the "Terror of the World" to the "Sick Man of Europe": European Images of Ottoman Empire and Society from the Sixteenth Century to the Nineteenth (New York: Peter Lang, 2002), p. 185.
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166. J. B. Tavernier, Les six voyages de Turquie et de Perse, ed. Stéphane Yerasimos (Paris: François Maspero, 1981), 1:266.
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168. Suranyi, "Seventeenth-Century English Travel Literature," pp. 141-142.
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179. Montanari, The Culture of Food, pp. 10-11.
180. Maczak, Travel in Early Modern Europe, p. 58.
181. Thomas Palmer, An essay of the meanes how to make our trauailes, into forraine countries, the more profitable and honourable (London: Mathew Lownes, 1606), pp. 63-64.
182. "Relazione di Giacomo Soranzo," in Relazioni di ambasciatori veneti al senato, vol. 1, Inghilterra, ed. Luigi Firpo (Turin: Bottega d'Erasmo, 1965), 1:315.
183. Suranyi, The Genius of the English Nation, pp. 94-97.
184. Piero Camporesi, Bread of Dreams: Food and Fantasy in Early Modern Europe (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1989), p. 53.
185. Ted Motohashi, "The Discourse of Cannibalism in Early Modern Travel Writing," in Travel Writing and Empire: Postcolonial Theory in Transit, ed. Steve Clark (London: Zed, 1999), p. 87.
186. Suranyi, The Genius of the English Nation, p. 88.
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188. Ottaviano Bon, The Sultan's Seraglio: An Intimate Portrait of Life at the Ottoman Court (London: Saqi Books, 1996), pp. 94, 98-99.
189. Giovanantonio Menavino, I cinque libri della legge, religione, et vita de' turchi (Venice: n.p. 1548), pp. 241-242.
190. Camporesi, Bread of Dreams, pp. 17-18, 137-149.
191. Bartholomaeus Gjorjevic, Prophetia de Maometani, et altre cose Turchesche, trans. Lodovico Domenchi (Florence: 1548).
192. Menavino, I cinque libri della legge, religione, et vita de' turchi, pp. 83-85.
193. Robert Launay, "Tasting the World: Food in Early European Travel Narratives," Food and Foodways 11 (2003): 42.
194. Martin, "The Baptism of Wine," p. 21.
195. Montanari, The Culture of Food, pp. 113-114.
196. J.-L. Flandrin, "La diversité des goûts et des pratiques alimentaires en Europe du XVle au XVIIe siècle," Revue d'histoire moderne et contemporaine 30 (1983): 77.
197. Camporesi, Bread of Dreams, pp. 17-18, 137-149.
198. John Lough, France Observed in the Seventeenth Century by British Travellers (Stocksfield, Northumberland: Oriel Press, 1984), p. 36.
199. Raffaella Sarti, "The Material Conditions of Family Life," in Family Life in Early Modern Times 1500-1789: The History of the European Family, trans. Caroline Beamish, ed. David I. Kertzer and Marzio Barbagli (New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press, 2001), p. 16.
200. Sarti, "The Material Conditions of Family Life," pp. 13, 15.
201. James Howell, Instructions and directions for forren travell (London: Humphrey Mosley, 1650), p. 31.
202. Barbara Fuchs, Exotic Nation: Maurophilia and the Construction of Early Modern Spain (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2009), pp. 20-21.
203. Madame d'Aulnoy, The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady-travels into Spain (London: Samuel Crouch, 1697), pp. 46-47, 133-134.
204. Fernand Braudel, The Mediterranean and the Mediterranean World in the Age of Philip II, 2 vols. (New York: Harper, 1972), 1:235-236.
205. Nicolay, The Navigations into Turkie, pp. 90r-92v.
206. Hill, A full and just account of the present state of the Ottoman empire, p. 118.
207. Suranyi, The Genius of the English Nation, p. 99.
208. Père Philippe Avril, Voyage en divers Etats d'Europe, et d'Asie entrepris pour découvrir un nouveau chemin à la Chine (Paris: Jean Boudot, 1692), pp. 50-51, 342.
209. See, for example, Maxime Rodinson, Arthur John Arberry, and Charles Perry, eds., Medieval Arab Cookery: Essays and Translations (Devon: Prospect Books, 2001).
210. Clifford A. Wright, A Mediterranean Feast: The Story of the Birth of the Celebrated Cuisines of the Mediterranean, from the Merchants of Venice to the Barbary Corsairs (New York: William Morrow, 1999).
211. Hill, A full and just account of the present state of the Ottoman empire, p. 118.
212. William Lithgow, The totall discourse, of the rare adventures, and painefull peregrinations of long nineteene yeares travailes from Scotland, to the most famous kingdomes in Europe, Asia, and Affrica… (London: I. Okes, 1640), pp. 151-152.
213. Christophe Richer, Des Costumes et Manieres de Vivre des Turcs (Alton: Benoit Rigaud and Iean Saugrain, 1558), p. 8.
214. Menavino, I cinque libri della legge, religione, et vita de' turchi, p. 242.
215. Gerry Oberling and Grace Martin Smith, The Food Culture of the Ottoman Palace (Istanbul: Republic of Turkey Ministry of Culture, 2001), pp. 82-87.
216. Palmer, An essay of the meanes, p. 63.
217. Della Casa, Galateo, p. 95.
218. Sarti, "The Material Conditions of Family Life," pp. 13, 15.
219. Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington, D.C., V.a. 430, Cookery and medicinal recipes of the Granville family, ca. 1640-ca. 1750, cc. 101-123.
220. Giacomo Castelvetro, The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy: An Offering to Lucy, Countess of Bedford, trans. and intro. Gillian Riley (London: Viking, 1989).
221. Maria Pia Pedani, "The Sultan and the Venetian Bailo: Ceremonial Diplomatic Protocol in Istanbul," Diplomatisches Zeremoniell in Europa und im Mittleren Osten in der Früen Neuzeit, ed. Ralph Kauz, Giorgio Rota, and Jan Paul Niederkorn (Vienna: Verlag der Österreichischen Akademie der Wissenschaften, 2009), pp. 287-299.
222. Özge Samancı, "Pilaf and Bouchées: The Modernization of Official Banquets at the Ottoman Palace in the Nineteenth Century," in Royal Taste: Food, Power, and Status at the European Courts after 1789, ed. Daniëlle de Voogh (Farnham, Surrey, U.K.: Ashgate, 2011), pp. 111-115.
223. Oberling and Smith, The Food Culture of the Ottoman Palace, passim.
224. Tavernier, Les six voyages, 1:272.
225. Evliya Çelebi, Evliya Çelebi in Bitlis: The Relevant Section of the Seyahatname, ed. and trans. Robert Dankoff (Leiden: E. J. Brill, 1990), pp. 117-119.
226. Eric R. Dursteler, "'A Continual Tavern in My House': Food and Diplomacy in Early Modern Constantinople," in Renaissance Studies in Honor of Joseph Connors, ed. Machtelt Israëls and Louis A. Waldman (Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 2013), 2:168.
227. Kyri W. Claflin, "Food among the Historians: Early Modern Europe," in Claflin and Scholliers, eds., Writing Food History, p. 53.