Wave energy distribution and morphological development in and around the shadow zone of an embayed beach

Coastal Engineering

Volumn 93, Issue , 2014, Pages 40-54

  Daly, Christopher J ^a,b   Bryan, Karin R ^b   Winter, Christian ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF BREMEN   (Germany)

^b UNIVERSITY OF WAIKATO   (New Zealand)

Author keywords

Diffraction; Directional spreading; Headland bay beach; Shoreline evolution; Wave climate; Wave direction

Indexed keywords

COMPUTER SIMULATION; DIFFRACTION; WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION;

DIRECTIONAL SPREADING; EQUILIBRIUM ORIENTATIONS; MORPHOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT; MORPHOLOGICAL MODEL; SHORELINE EVOLUTIONS; WAVE CLIMATES; WAVE DIFFRACTIONS; WAVE DIRECTION;

BEACHES;

BAY; BEACH; COASTAL EVOLUTION; HYDRODYNAMICS; MORPHODYNAMICS; WAVE CLIMATE; WAVE DIFFRACTION; WAVE DIRECTION; WAVE ENERGY; WAVE HEIGHT;

EID: 84906761615     PISSN: 03783839     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.08.003     Document Type: Article

References (51)

1. Booij N., Ris R.C., Hotlhuijsen L.C. A third-generation wave generation model for coastal regions. Part I. Model description and validation. J. Geophys. Res. 1999, 104:7649-7666.
2. Castelle B., Coco G. The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches. Cont. Shelf Res. 2012, 43:10-23.
3. Castelle B., Ruessink B.G. Modeling formation and subsequent non-linear evolution of rip channels: time-varying versus time-invariant forcing. J. Geophys. Res. 2011, 116:F04008. 10.1029/2011JF001997.
4. Daly C.J., Bryan K.R., Roelvink J.A., Klein A.H.F., Hebbeln D., Winter C. Morphodynamics of embayed beaches: the role of wave conditions. J. Coast. Res. 2011, S(SI 64):1003-1007.
5. Daly C.J., Bryan K.R., Winter C. Effect of selection and sequencing of representative wave conditions on process-based predictions of equilibrium embayed beach morphology. Ocean Dyn. 2014, 64:863-877.
6. Dean R.G. Diffraction calculations of shoreline planforms. Proc 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, A.S.C.E 1978, 1903-1917.
7. Dean R.G. Equilibrium beach profiles: characteristics and applications. J. Coast. Res. 1991, 7(1):53-84.
8. Dissanayake D.M.P.K., Roelvink J.A., van der Wegen M. Modeled channel patterns in a schematized tidal inlet. J. Coast. Eng. 2009, 56:1069-1083.
9. Gallop S.L., Bryan K.R., Coco G., Stephens S.A. Storm-driven changes in rip channel patterns on an embayed beach. J. Geomorphol. 2011, 127:179-188.
10. Gama C., Coelho C., Baptista P., Albardeiro L. Equilibrium configuration of sandy embayed beaches from the Southwest Portuguese rocky coast. J. Coast. Res. SI 2011, 64:2037-2041.
11. Gonzalez M., Medina R. On the application of static equilibrium bay formulations to natural and man-made beaches. J. Coast. Eng. 2001, 43:209-225.
12. Groeneweg J., Klopman G. Changes of the mean velocity profiles in the combined wave-current motion in a GLM formulation. J. Fluid Mech. 1998, 370:271-296.
13. Harley M.D., Turner I.L., Short A.D., Ranasinghe R. A reevaluation of coastal embayment rotation: the dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore sediment transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen Beach, southeast Australia. J. Geophys. Res. 2011, 116:F04033. 10.1029/2011JF001989.
14. Ho S.K. Crenulate Shaped Bays 1971, (M.Eng. Thesis No. 346), Asian Institute of Technology, Bangkok.
15. Holthuijsen L.H., Herman A., Booij N. Phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction for spectral wave models. Coast. Eng. 2003, 49:291-305.
16. Hsu J.R.C., Evans C. Parabolic bay shapes and applications. Proc. Inst. Civ. Eng. 1989, 87:557-570.
17. Hsu J.R.C., Silvester R., Xia Y.M. Generalities on static equilibrium bays. J. Coast. Eng. 1989, 12:353-369.
18. Hsu J.R.C., Yu M.J., Lee F.C., Benedet L. Static bay beach concepts for scientists and engineers: a review. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57:76-91.
19. Iglesias G., Lopez I., Castro A., Carballo R. Neural network modelling of planform geometry of headland-bay beaches. J. Geomorphol. 2009, 103:577-587.
20. Ikeda S. Incipient motion of sand particles on side slopes. J. Hydraul. Div. ASCE 1982, 108(1):95-114.
21. Klein A.H.F., Ferreira Ó., Dias J.M.A., Tessler M.G., Silveira L.F., Benedet L., de Menezes J.T., de Abreu J.G.N. Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: a review. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57:98-111.
22. Lausman R., Klein A., Stive M. Uncertainty in the application of the parabolic bay shape equation: Part 1. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57(2):132-141.
23. Lavalle P.D., Lakhan V.C. A spatial-temporal analysis of the development of a log-spiral shaped embayment. J. Earth Surf. Process. Landf. 1997, 22:657-667.
24. LeBlond P.H. An explanation of the logarithmic spiral plan shape of headland-bay beaches. J. Sed. Petrol. 1979, 49(4):1093-1100.
25. Lesser G.R., Roelvink J.A., van Kester J.A.T.M., Stelling G.S. Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. J. Coast. Eng. 2004, 51:883-915.
26. Loureiro C., Ferreira Ó., Andrew J., Cooper G. Geologically constrained morphological variability and boundary effects on embayed beaches. J. Mar. Geol. 2012, 329-331:1-15.
27. Moreno L.J., Kraus N.C. Equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches for engineering design. Proc. Coast. Sediments ASCE 1999, 860-875.
28. Ranasinghe R., Swinkels C., Luijendijk A., Roelvink D., Bosboom J., Stive M., Walstra D.J. Morphodynamic upscaling with the MORFAC approach: dependencies and sensitivities. J. Coast. Eng. 2011, 58:806-811.
29. Rea C.C., Komar P.D. Computer simulation models of a hooked beach shoreline configuration. J. Sed. Petrol. 1977, 45(4):866-872.
30. Reniers A.J.H.M., Roelvink J.A., Thornton E.B. Morphodynamic modelling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing. J. Geophys. Res. 2004, 109:C01030. 10.1029/2002JC001586.
31. Roelvink J.A. Coastal morphodynamic evolution techniques. J. Coast. Eng. 2006, 53:277-287.
32. Roelvink D., Reniers A. A guide to modelling coastal morphology. Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering 2012, vol. 12. World Scientific Publishing, (274 pp.).
33. Ruggiero P., Walstra D.J.R., Gelfenbaum G., van Ormondt M. Seasonal-scale nearshore morphological evolution: field observations and numerical modeling. J. Coast. Eng. 2009, 56:1153-1172.
34. Schiaffino C.F., Brignone M., Ferrari M. Application of the parabolic bay shape equation to sand and gravel beaches on Mediterranean coasts. J. Coast. Eng. 2011, 59:57-63.
35. Short A.D. Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57:92-97.
36. Short A.D., Masselink G. Embayed and structurally controlled beaches. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics 1999, 230-249. John Wiley and Sons, New York.
37. Silva R., Baquerizo A., Losada M.Á., Mendoza E. Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay beach-nearshore current circulation. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57:160-175.
38. Silvester R. Stabilization of sedimentary coastlines. Nature 1960, 188:467-469. (Paper 4749).
39. Silvester R., Ho S.K. Use of crenulated shaped bays to stabilize coasts. Proc 13th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering 1972, 1347-1365.
40. Silvester R., Hsu J.R.C. Coastal stabilization. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering 1997, vol. 14. World Scientific, (578 pp.).
41. Smit M.W.J., Reniers A.J.H.M., Ruessink B.G., Roelvink J.A. The morphological response of a double sandbar system to constant wave forcing. J. Coast. Eng. 2008, 55:761-770.
42. Turki I., Medina R., Gonzalez M., Coco G. Natural variability of shoreline position: observations at three pocket beaches. J. Mar. Geol. 2012, 338:76-89.
43. Turki I., Medina R., Coco G., Gonzalez M. An equilibrium model to predict shoreline rotation of pocket beaches. J. Mar. Geol. 2013, 346:220-232.
44. van Rijn L.C. Principles of Sediment Transport in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas 1993, Aqua Publications, Netherlands.
45. Walstra D.J.R., Roelvink J.A., Groeneweg J. Calculation of wave driven currents in a 3D mean flow model. Proc. 27th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, A.S.C.E., Sydney, Australia 2000.
46. Wang Z.Q., Tan S.K., Cheng N.S., Goh K.W. A simple relationship for crenulated shaped bays in static equilibrium. J. Coast. Eng. 2008, 55:73-78.
47. Weesakul S., Rasmeemasmuang T., Tasaduak S., Thaicharoen C. Numerical modelling of crenulate bay shapes. J. Coast. Eng. 2010, 57:184-193.
48. Wright L.D., Short A.D. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. J. Mar. Geol. 1984, 56:93-118.
49. Yamashita T., Tsuchiya Y. Numerical simulation of pocket beach formation. Proc 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering 1992, 2556-2566.
50. Yasso W.E. Plan geometry of headland bay beaches. J. Geol. 1965, 73:702-714.
51. Yates M.L., Guza R.T., O'Reilly W.C., Seymour R.J. Overview of seasonal sand level changes on Southern California beaches. Shore Beach 2009, 77:39-46.