메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 329-331, Issue , 2012, Pages 1-15

Geologically constrained morphological variability and boundary effects on embayed beaches

Author keywords

Coastal embayment; Empirical orthogonal functions; Geological control; Hard bottom; Hydrodynamic forcing

Indexed keywords

COASTAL EMBAYMENTS; EMPIRICAL ORTHOGONAL FUNCTION; GEOLOGICAL CONTROL; HARD-BOTTOM; HYDRODYNAMIC FORCING;

EID: 84870052904     PISSN: 00253227     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2012.09.010     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (75)

References (72)
  • 1
    • 79952509875 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height
    • Almeida L.P., Ferreira Ó., Pacheco A. Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 2011, 36:523-532.
    • (2011) Earth Surface Processes and Landforms , vol.36 , pp. 523-532
    • Almeida, L.P.1    Ferreira, Ó.2    Pacheco, A.3
  • 2
    • 84860389271 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Analysis of the effects of different storm events on shoreline dynamics of an artificially embayed beach
    • Archetti R., Romagnoli C. Analysis of the effects of different storm events on shoreline dynamics of an artificially embayed beach. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 2011, 36:1449-1463.
    • (2011) Earth Surface Processes and Landforms , vol.36 , pp. 1449-1463
    • Archetti, R.1    Romagnoli, C.2
  • 3
    • 79952483984 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Decoupling spatial and temporal patterns in short-term beach shoreline response to wave climate
    • Alvarez-Ellacuria A., Orfila A., Gómez-Pujol L., Simarro G., Obregon N. Decoupling spatial and temporal patterns in short-term beach shoreline response to wave climate. Geomorphology 2011, 128:199-208.
    • (2011) Geomorphology , vol.128 , pp. 199-208
    • Alvarez-Ellacuria, A.1    Orfila, A.2    Gómez-Pujol, L.3    Simarro, G.4    Obregon, N.5
  • 4
    • 0018655377 scopus 로고
    • Seasonal patterns of onshore/offshore sediment movement
    • Aubrey D.G. Seasonal patterns of onshore/offshore sediment movement. Journal of Geophysical Research 1979, 84(C10):6347-6354.
    • (1979) Journal of Geophysical Research , vol.84 , Issue.C10 , pp. 6347-6354
    • Aubrey, D.G.1
  • 5
    • 0020458641 scopus 로고
    • Description of littoral, alongshore sediment movement from empirical eigen-function analysis
    • Clarke D.J., Eliot I.G. Description of littoral, alongshore sediment movement from empirical eigen-function analysis. Journal of the Geological Society of Australia 1982, 29:327-341.
    • (1982) Journal of the Geological Society of Australia , vol.29 , pp. 327-341
    • Clarke, D.J.1    Eliot, I.G.2
  • 6
    • 38249032990 scopus 로고
    • Low-frequency changes of sediment volume on the beachface at Warilla beach, New South Wales, 1975-1985
    • Clarke D.J., Eliot I.G. Low-frequency changes of sediment volume on the beachface at Warilla beach, New South Wales, 1975-1985. Marine Geology 1988, 79:189-211.
    • (1988) Marine Geology , vol.79 , pp. 189-211
    • Clarke, D.J.1    Eliot, I.G.2
  • 7
    • 0021642107 scopus 로고
    • Variation in subaerial beach sediment volume on a small sandy beach over a monthly lunar tidal cycle
    • Clarke D.J., Eliot I.G., Frew J.R. Variation in subaerial beach sediment volume on a small sandy beach over a monthly lunar tidal cycle. Marine Geology 1984, 58:319-344.
    • (1984) Marine Geology , vol.58 , pp. 319-344
    • Clarke, D.J.1    Eliot, I.G.2    Frew, J.R.3
  • 12
    • 0037079749 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A cautionary note on the interpretation of EOFs
    • Dommenget D., Latif M. A cautionary note on the interpretation of EOFs. Journal of Climate 2002, 15:216-225.
    • (2002) Journal of Climate , vol.15 , pp. 216-225
    • Dommenget, D.1    Latif, M.2
  • 13
    • 70349764300 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Empirical orthogonal function analysis of shoreline changes behind two different designs of detached breakwaters
    • Fairley I., Davidson M., Kingston K., Dolphin T., Philips R. Empirical orthogonal function analysis of shoreline changes behind two different designs of detached breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 2009, 56:1097-1108.
    • (2009) Coastal Engineering , vol.56 , pp. 1097-1108
    • Fairley, I.1    Davidson, M.2    Kingston, K.3    Dolphin, T.4    Philips, R.5
  • 14
    • 0020336175 scopus 로고
    • Morphological variations and sediment transport in crenulate-bay beaches, Kodiak Island, Alaska
    • Finkelstein K. Morphological variations and sediment transport in crenulate-bay beaches, Kodiak Island, Alaska. Marine Geology 1982, 47:261-281.
    • (1982) Marine Geology , vol.47 , pp. 261-281
    • Finkelstein, K.1
  • 17
    • 81255179992 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rock topography causes spatial variation in the wave, current and beach response to sea breeze activity
    • Gallop S.L., Bosserelle C., Pattiaratchi C.B., Eliot I. Rock topography causes spatial variation in the wave, current and beach response to sea breeze activity. Marine Geology 2011, 290:29-40.
    • (2011) Marine Geology , vol.290 , pp. 29-40
    • Gallop, S.L.1    Bosserelle, C.2    Pattiaratchi, C.B.3    Eliot, I.4
  • 18
    • 79960211928 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Controls on sediment dynamics and medium-term morphological change in a barred microtidal beach (Cala Millor, Mallorca, Western Mediterranean)
    • Gómez-Pujol L., Orfila A., Álvarez-Ellacuría A., Tintoré J. Controls on sediment dynamics and medium-term morphological change in a barred microtidal beach (Cala Millor, Mallorca, Western Mediterranean). Geomorphology 2011, 132:87-98.
    • (2011) Geomorphology , vol.132 , pp. 87-98
    • Gómez-Pujol, L.1    Orfila, A.2    Álvarez-Ellacuría, A.3    Tintoré, J.4
  • 19
    • 0003708605 scopus 로고
    • Beach and dune erosion tests I
    • Delft Hydraulics Laboratory
    • Gourlay M.R. Beach and dune erosion tests I. Report M935/M936 1968, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, 117 pp.
    • (1968) Report M935/M936 , pp. 117
    • Gourlay, M.R.1
  • 20
    • 77956344236 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sub-weekly to interannual variability of a high-energy shoreline
    • Hansen J.E., Barnard P.L. Sub-weekly to interannual variability of a high-energy shoreline. Coastal Engineering 2010, 57:959-972.
    • (2010) Coastal Engineering , vol.57 , pp. 959-972
    • Hansen, J.E.1    Barnard, P.L.2
  • 22
    • 84855302058 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A reevaluation of coastal embayment rotation: the dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen Beach, southeast Australia
    • Harley M.D., Turner I.L., Short A.D., Ranasinghe R. A reevaluation of coastal embayment rotation: the dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen Beach, southeast Australia. Journal of Geophysical Research 2011, 116:F040033.
    • (2011) Journal of Geophysical Research , vol.116
    • Harley, M.D.1    Turner, I.L.2    Short, A.D.3    Ranasinghe, R.4
  • 23
    • 2942750453 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The sediment response of a dissipative beach to variations in wave climate
    • Haxel J.H., Holman R.A. The sediment response of a dissipative beach to variations in wave climate. Marine Geology 2004, 206:73-99.
    • (2004) Marine Geology , vol.206 , pp. 73-99
    • Haxel, J.H.1    Holman, R.A.2
  • 25
    • 72749112634 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Geological control on beach form: accommodation space and contemporary dynamics
    • Jackson D.W.T., Cooper J.A.G. Geological control on beach form: accommodation space and contemporary dynamics. Journal of Coastal Research SI 2009, 56:69-72.
    • (2009) Journal of Coastal Research SI , vol.56 , pp. 69-72
    • Jackson, D.W.T.1    Cooper, J.A.G.2
  • 26
  • 27
    • 0036617024 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Short-term beach rotation processes in distinct headland bay beach systems
    • Klein A.H.F., Benedet L., Schumacher D.H. Short-term beach rotation processes in distinct headland bay beach systems. Journal of Coastal Research 2002, 18:442-458.
    • (2002) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.18 , pp. 442-458
    • Klein, A.H.F.1    Benedet, L.2    Schumacher, D.H.3
  • 31
    • 0034113302 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Representation of non-erodible (hard) bottoms in beach profile change modelling
    • Larson M., Kraus N.C. Representation of non-erodible (hard) bottoms in beach profile change modelling. Journal of Coastal Research 2000, 16:1-14.
    • (2000) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.16 , pp. 1-14
    • Larson, M.1    Kraus, N.C.2
  • 33
    • 0345258522 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Analysis and modelling of field data on coastal morphological evolution over yearly and decadal time scales. Part 1: background and linear techniques
    • Larson M., Capobianco M., Jansen H., Rózynski G., Southgate H.N., Stive M., Wijnberg K.M., Hulscher S. Analysis and modelling of field data on coastal morphological evolution over yearly and decadal time scales. Part 1: background and linear techniques. Journal of Coastal Research 2003, 19:760-775.
    • (2003) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.19 , pp. 760-775
    • Larson, M.1    Capobianco, M.2    Jansen, H.3    Rózynski, G.4    Southgate, H.N.5    Stive, M.6    Wijnberg, K.M.7    Hulscher, S.8
  • 35
    • 37249079793 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Process signatures in regional patterns of shoreline change on annual to decadal time-scales
    • Lazarus E.D., Murray A.B. Process signatures in regional patterns of shoreline change on annual to decadal time-scales. Geophysical Research Letters 2007, 34:L19402.
    • (2007) Geophysical Research Letters , vol.34
    • Lazarus, E.D.1    Murray, A.B.2
  • 36
    • 84855992397 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphologic change and morphodynamics at high-energy embayed beaches in southwestern Portugal
    • World Scientific Publishing, Singapore
    • Loureiro C., Ferreira Ó., Cooper J.A.G. Morphologic change and morphodynamics at high-energy embayed beaches in southwestern Portugal. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments'11 2011, vol. 2:1375-1389. World Scientific Publishing, Singapore.
    • (2011) Proceedings of Coastal Sediments'11 , vol.2 , pp. 1375-1389
    • Loureiro, C.1    Ferreira, Ó.2    Cooper, J.A.G.3
  • 37
    • 84855990163 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Extreme erosion on high-energy embayed beaches: influence of megarips and storm grouping
    • Loureiro C., Ferreira Ó., Cooper J.A.G. Extreme erosion on high-energy embayed beaches: influence of megarips and storm grouping. Geomorphology 2012, 139-140:155-171.
    • (2012) Geomorphology , pp. 155-171
    • Loureiro, C.1    Ferreira, Ó.2    Cooper, J.A.G.3
  • 38
    • 77950225051 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model
    • Martins C.C., Mahiques M.M., Dias J.M.A. Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 2010, 35:487-495.
    • (2010) Earth Surface Processes and Landforms , vol.35 , pp. 487-495
    • Martins, C.C.1    Mahiques, M.M.2    Dias, J.M.A.3
  • 39
    • 0035864735 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia
    • Masselink G., Pattiaratchi C.B. Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia. Marine Geology 2001, 172:243-263.
    • (2001) Marine Geology , vol.172 , pp. 243-263
    • Masselink, G.1    Pattiaratchi, C.B.2
  • 40
    • 33751399500 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: part I temporal and spatial characteristics
    • Miller J.K., Dean R.G. Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: part I temporal and spatial characteristics. Coastal Engineering 2007, 54:111-131.
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , pp. 111-131
    • Miller, J.K.1    Dean, R.G.2
  • 41
    • 33751421550 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: part II relationship to nearshore conditions
    • Miller J.K., Dean R.G. Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: part II relationship to nearshore conditions. Coastal Engineering 2007, 54:133-150.
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , pp. 133-150
    • Miller, J.K.1    Dean, R.G.2
  • 42
    • 0345016331 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Waikiki: historical analysis of an engineered shoreline
    • Miller T.L., Fletcher C.H. Waikiki: historical analysis of an engineered shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research 2003, 19:1026-1043.
    • (2003) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.19 , pp. 1026-1043
    • Miller, T.L.1    Fletcher, C.H.2
  • 43
    • 0035872657 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Measurements of the response of a coastal inlet using video monitoring techniques
    • Morris B.D., Davidson M., Huntley D. Measurements of the response of a coastal inlet using video monitoring techniques. Marine Geology 2001, 175:251-272.
    • (2001) Marine Geology , vol.175 , pp. 251-272
    • Morris, B.D.1    Davidson, M.2    Huntley, D.3
  • 44
    • 74449091375 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Comparison of long-, medium- and short-term variations of beach profiles with and without submerged geological control
    • Muñoz-Perez J.J., Medina R. Comparison of long-, medium- and short-term variations of beach profiles with and without submerged geological control. Coastal Engineering 2010, 57:241-251.
    • (2010) Coastal Engineering , vol.57 , pp. 241-251
    • Muñoz-Perez, J.J.1    Medina, R.2
  • 45
    • 0035715211 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Evolution of longshore beach contour lines determined by the E.O.F. method
    • Muñoz-Pérez J.J., Medina R., Tejedor B. Evolution of longshore beach contour lines determined by the E.O.F. method. Scientia Marina 2001, 65:393-402.
    • (2001) Scientia Marina , vol.65 , pp. 393-402
    • Muñoz-Pérez, J.J.1    Medina, R.2    Tejedor, B.3
  • 46
    • 45549090287 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shoreline dynamics and beach rotation of artificial embayed beaches
    • Ojeda E., Guillén J. Shoreline dynamics and beach rotation of artificial embayed beaches. Marine Geology 2008, 253:51-62.
    • (2008) Marine Geology , vol.253 , pp. 51-62
    • Ojeda, E.1    Guillén, J.2
  • 48
    • 0022220291 scopus 로고
    • Headland-bay beaches revisited: an example from Sandy Hook, New Jersey
    • Phillips J.D. Headland-bay beaches revisited: an example from Sandy Hook, New Jersey. Marine Geology 1985, 65:21-31.
    • (1985) Marine Geology , vol.65 , pp. 21-31
    • Phillips, J.D.1
  • 49
    • 41349113541 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach
    • Quartel S., Kroon A., Ruessink B.G. Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach. Marine Geology 2008, 250:19-33.
    • (2008) Marine Geology , vol.250 , pp. 19-33
    • Quartel, S.1    Kroon, A.2    Ruessink, B.G.3
  • 50
    • 1842590465 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The Southern Oscillation Index, wave climate and beach rotation
    • Ranasinghe R., McLoughlin R., Short A.D., Symonds G. The Southern Oscillation Index, wave climate and beach rotation. Marine Geology 2004, 204:273-287.
    • (2004) Marine Geology , vol.204 , pp. 273-287
    • Ranasinghe, R.1    McLoughlin, R.2    Short, A.D.3    Symonds, G.4
  • 52
    • 78649635658 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton Sands, UK
    • Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu A., Masselink G. Storm response and beach rotation on a gravel beach, Slapton Sands, UK. Marine Geology 2010, 278:77-99.
    • (2010) Marine Geology , vol.278 , pp. 77-99
    • Ruiz de Alegría-Arzaburu, A.1    Masselink, G.2
  • 54
    • 0033501721 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Compartmentalisation of beachface sediments along the southwestern coast of Australia
    • Sanderson P.G., Eliot I. Compartmentalisation of beachface sediments along the southwestern coast of Australia. Marine Geology 1999, 162:145-164.
    • (1999) Marine Geology , vol.162 , pp. 145-164
    • Sanderson, P.G.1    Eliot, I.2
  • 55
    • 80051561979 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales
    • Scott T., Masselink G., Russel P. Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales. Marine Geology 2011, 286:1-20.
    • (2011) Marine Geology , vol.286 , pp. 1-20
    • Scott, T.1    Masselink, G.2    Russel, P.3
  • 56
    • 0001602583 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The role of wave height, period, slope, tide range and embaymentisation in beach classifications: a review
    • Short A.D. The role of wave height, period, slope, tide range and embaymentisation in beach classifications: a review. Revista Chilena de Historia Natural 1996, 69:589-604.
    • (1996) Revista Chilena de Historia Natural , vol.69 , pp. 589-604
    • Short, A.D.1
  • 58
    • 72749113930 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics
    • Short A.D. Role of geological inheritance in Australian beach morphodynamics. Coastal Engineering 2010, 57:92-97.
    • (2010) Coastal Engineering , vol.57 , pp. 92-97
    • Short, A.D.1
  • 59
    • 0242395692 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Embayed and structurally controlled beaches
    • John Wiley & Sons, Chichester, A.D. Short (Ed.)
    • Short A.D., Masselink G. Embayed and structurally controlled beaches. Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics 1999, 230-249. John Wiley & Sons, Chichester. A.D. Short (Ed.).
    • (1999) Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics , pp. 230-249
    • Short, A.D.1    Masselink, G.2
  • 60
    • 3242743835 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Decadal scale patterns in beach oscillation and rotation, Narrabeen Beach, Australia - time series, PCA and wavelet analysis
    • Short A.D., Trembanis A.C. Decadal scale patterns in beach oscillation and rotation, Narrabeen Beach, Australia - time series, PCA and wavelet analysis. Journal of Coastal Research 2004, 20:523-532.
    • (2004) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.20 , pp. 523-532
    • Short, A.D.1    Trembanis, A.C.2
  • 62
    • 0021872416 scopus 로고
    • Natural headland control of beaches
    • Silvester R. Natural headland control of beaches. Continental Shelf Research 1985, 4:581-596.
    • (1985) Continental Shelf Research , vol.4 , pp. 581-596
    • Silvester, R.1
  • 65
    • 77956339771 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mesoscale evolution of a headland bay: beach rotation processes
    • Thomas T., Phillips M.R., Williams A.T. Mesoscale evolution of a headland bay: beach rotation processes. Geomorphology 2010, 123:129-141.
    • (2010) Geomorphology , vol.123 , pp. 129-141
    • Thomas, T.1    Phillips, M.R.2    Williams, A.T.3
  • 67
    • 0842276554 scopus 로고
    • Systematic variations in barrier-island topography
    • Vincent L., Dolan R., Hayden, Resio D. Systematic variations in barrier-island topography. Journal of Geology 1976, 84:583-594.
    • (1976) Journal of Geology , vol.84 , pp. 583-594
    • Vincent, L.1    Dolan, R.2    Hayden3    Resio, D.4
  • 69
    • 70349161203 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphology and sedimentology of a microtidal beach with beachrocks: Vatera, Lesbos, NE Mediterranean
    • Vousdoukas M.I., Velegrakis A.F., Karambas T.V. Morphology and sedimentology of a microtidal beach with beachrocks: Vatera, Lesbos, NE Mediterranean. Continental Shelf Research 2009, 29:1937-1947.
    • (2009) Continental Shelf Research , vol.29 , pp. 1937-1947
    • Vousdoukas, M.I.1    Velegrakis, A.F.2    Karambas, T.V.3
  • 70
    • 0029475172 scopus 로고
    • Extracting decadal morphological behaviour from high-resolution, long-term bathymetric surveys along the Holland coast using eigenfunctions analysis
    • Wijnberg K.M., Terwindt J.H.J. Extracting decadal morphological behaviour from high-resolution, long-term bathymetric surveys along the Holland coast using eigenfunctions analysis. Marine Geology 1995, 126:301-330.
    • (1995) Marine Geology , vol.126 , pp. 301-330
    • Wijnberg, K.M.1    Terwindt, J.H.J.2


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.