Phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction for spectral wave models

Coastal Engineering

Volumn 49, Issue 4, 2003, Pages 291-305

  Holthuijsen, L H ^a   Herman, A ^b   Booij, N ^a  

^a DELFT UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY   (Netherlands)

^b UNIVERSITY OF GDA SK   (Poland)

Author keywords

Diffraction; Numerical modelling; Refraction; Spectral wave model; Wave prediction; Wave propagation

Indexed keywords

COASTAL ZONES; DIFFRACTION;

COHERENT WAVE FIELDS;

COASTAL ENGINEERING;

COASTAL ZONE; MATHEMATICAL MODELING; WAVE DIFFRACTION; WAVE PROPAGATION; WAVE REFRACTION;

COASTAL ZONE; NUMERICAL MODEL; REFRACTION; WAVE DIFFRACTION; WAVE PROPAGATION; WAVE-WAVE INTERACTION;

EID: 0141954917     PISSN: 03783839     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/S0378-3839(03)00065-6     Document Type: Article

References (28)

1. Battjes J.A. Refraction of water waves J. Waterw. Harb. Div., Proc. ASCE, New York, WW4 1968 437-451
2. Benoit M. Marcos F. Becq F. : Development of a third-generation shallow-water wave model with unstructured spatial meshing Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering 1996 465-478 ASCE New York
3. Berkhoff J.C.W. Computations of combined refraction-diffraction Proc. 13th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering 1972 471-490 ASCE New York
4. Booij, N., 1981. Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current. PhD Thesis. Delft University of Technology, Delft, the Netherlands. 130 pp.
5. Booij N. Holthuijsen L.H. Doorn N. Kieftenburg A.T.M.M. Diffraction in a spectral wave model Proc. 3rd Intl. Symposium Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis WAVES 97 1997 243-255 ASCE New York
6. Booij N. Ris R.C. Holthuijsen L.H. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, part I, model description and validation J. Geophys. Res. 104 C4 1999 7649-7666
7. Dingemans M.W. Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms, Part 1-linear wave propagation Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng., World Scientific 13 1997
8. Hasselmann K. Barnett T.P. Bouws E. Carlson H. Cartwright D.E. Enke K. Ewing J.A. Gienapp H. Hasselmann D.E. Kruseman P. Meerburg A. Müller P. Olbers D.J. Richter K. Sell W. Walden H. Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. Suppl. 12 1973 A8
9. Holthuijsen, L.H., 1971. An investigation of two-dimensional wave propagation problems. MSc Thesis. Internal Report R1971/1/10. Delft University of Technology, Faculty of Civil Engineering, Fluid Mechanics Group. 67 pp.
10. Komen G.J. Cavaleri L. Donelan M. Hasselmann K. Hasselmann S. Janssen P.A.E.M. Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves 1994 Cambridge Univ. Press Cambridge
11. Kirby J.T. : Higher-order approximation in the parabolic equation method for water waves J. Geophys. Res. 91 C1 1986 933-952
12. Kuik A.J. Van Vledder G.Ph. Holthuijsen L.H. A method for the routine analysis of pitch-and-roll buoy wave data J. Phys. Oceanogr. 18 7 1988 1020-1034
13. Lamb H. Hydrodynamics 6th ed. 1932 Dover Publications New York
14. Li Y.S. Zhan J.M. Boussinesq-type model with boundary-fitted coordinate system J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ASCE, New York 127 3 2001 152-160
15. Madsen P.A. Sørensen O.R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 2. A slowly-varying bathymetry Coast. Eng. 18 1992 183-205
16. Mase H. Takayama T. Kitano T. Spectral wave transformation model with diffraction effect Proc. 4th Int. Symposium Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, WAVES 2001 vol. 1 2001 814-823 ASCE New York
17. Mei C.C. The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves 1983 Wiley New York
18. Özkan H.T. Kirby J.T. Evolution of breaking directional spectral waves in the nearshore zone Proc. 2nd Int. Conf. Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, WAVES'93 1993 849-863 ASCE New York
19. Panchang V.G. Pearce B.R. Briggs M.J. Numerical simulation of irregular wave propagation over shoal J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ASCE, New York 116 3 1990 324-340
20. Peregrine D.H. Long waves on a beach J. Fluid Mech. 27 4 1966 815-827
21. Radder A.C. On the parabolic equation method for water-wave propagation J. Fluid Mech. 95 1 1979 159-176
22. Resio D.T. A steady-state wave model for coastal applications Proc. 21st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., ASCE, New York 1988 929-940
23. Rivero F.J. Arcilla A.S. Carci E. Analysis of diffraction in spectral wave models Proc. 3rd Int. Symposium Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis WAVES '97 1997 431-445 ASCE New York
24. Rogers W.E. Kaihatu J.M. Petit H.A.H. Booij N. Holthuijsen L.H. Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary scale third generation wind wave model Ocean Eng. 29 2002 1357-1390
25. Schönfeld J.C. Propagation of Short Waves in Two Dimensions 1971 Delft University of Technology Delft
26. Sommerfeld Mathematische theorie der diffraktion Mathematische Annalen 47 1896 317-374
27. Vincent C.L. Briggs M.J. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Eng., ASCE, New York 115 2 1989 269-284
28. Yu Y.-X.Li Y.S. Onyx Wai W.H. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater Ocean Eng. 27 2000 489-509