Seasonal-scale nearshore morphological evolution: Field observations and numerical modeling

Coastal Engineering

Volumn 56, Issue 11-12, 2009, Pages 1153-1172

  Ruggiero, P ^a   Walstra, D J R ^b,c   Gelfenbaum, G ^d   van Ormondt, M ^b  

^a OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^b DELTARES   (Netherlands)

^c DELFT UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY   (Netherlands)

^d U S GEOLOGICAL SURVEY   (United States)

Author keywords

Nearshore morphology; Profile modeling; Sandbar migration; Seasonal variability; Washington State

Indexed keywords

NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGY; PROFILE MODELING; SANDBAR MIGRATION; SEASONAL VARIABILITY; WASHINGTON STATE;

BATHYMETRY; BEACHES; CELL MEMBRANES; EXPERIMENTS; FLUID DYNAMICS; HYDROGRAPHIC SURVEYS; MINES; MORPHOLOGY; STEEL BRIDGES;

THREE DIMENSIONAL;

BATHYMETRY; COASTAL EROSION; COASTAL EVOLUTION; COASTAL MORPHOLOGY; FIELD METHOD; GEOMORPHOLOGICAL RESPONSE; HYDRODYNAMIC FORCE; HYPOTHESIS TESTING; NEARSHORE ENVIRONMENT; NUMERICAL MODEL; OBSERVATIONAL METHOD; PROGRADATION; SHORELINE CHANGE;

EID: 70349785074     PISSN: 03783839     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.003     Document Type: Article

References (43)

1. Allan J.C., and Komar P.D. Climate controls on US West Coast erosion processes. Journal of Coastal Research 22 (2006) 511-529
2. Beach R.A., Holman R.A., and Stanley J. Measuring nearshore bathymetry on high energy beaches. American Geophysical Union Fall Meeting, Supplement to EOS Transactions (1996) F286
3. Booij N., Ris R.C., and Holthuijsen L.H. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, 1, model description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research 104 C4 (1999) 7649-7666
4. Cote, J.M., 1999. The measurement of nearshore bathymetry on intermediate and dissipative beaches. MSc Thesis (Unpublished), Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, 102 pp.
5. Elgar S., Gallagher E.L., and Guza R.T. Nearshore sandbar migration. Journal of Geophysical Research 106 (2001) 11623-11627
6. Feddersen F., and Guza R.T. Observations of nearshore circulation: alongshore uniformity. Journal of Geophysical Research 108 (2003) C1 10.1029/2001JC001293
7. Gallagher E.L., Elgar S., and Guza R.T. Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 103 (1998) 3203-3215
8. Gelfenbaum, G. and Kaminsky, G., in press. Large-scale coastal change in the Columbia River littoral cell: An overview. Marine Geology.
9. Henderson S.M., Allan J.S., and Newberger P.A. Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusive boundary layer model. Journal of Geophysical Research 109 (2004) C06024 10.1029/2003JC002137
10. Hoefel F., and Elgar S. Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration. Science 299 5614 (2003) 1885-1887 10.1126/science.1081448 21
11. Hsu T.J., Elgar S., and Guza R.T. Wave-induced sediment transport and onshore sandbar migration. Coastal Engineering 53 (2006) 817-824
12. Komar P.D. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. 2nd Edition (1998), Prentice Hall 544 pp
13. Kuriyama Y. Medium-term behavior and associated sediment transport at Hasaki, Japa. Journal of Geophysical Research 107 C9 (2002) 3132 10.1029/2001JC000899
14. Lacy J.R., Sherwood C.R., Wilson D.J., Chisolm T.A., and Gelfenbaum G. Estimating hydrodynamic roughness in a wave-dominated environment with a high-resolution acoustic Doppler profiler. Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005) 10.1029/2003JC001814
15. Landerman L., Sherwood C.R., Gelfenbaum G., Lacy J., Ruggiero P., Wilson D., Chisholm T., and Kurrus K. Grays Harbor Sediment Transport Experiment Spring 2001 - Data Report. Data Series 98. US Geological Survey Data Series (2004)
16. Lesser G., Roelvink J.A., van Kester J.A.T.M., and Stelling G.S. Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. Coastal Engineering 51 (2004) 883-915
17. Lippmann T.C., and Holman R.A. The spatial and temporal variability of sandbar morphology. Journal of Geophysical Research 95 C7 (1990) 11575-11590
18. MacMahan J. Hydrographic surveying from a personal watercraft. Journal of Surveying Engineering 127 1 (2001) 12-24
19. Plant N.G., and Holman R.A. Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images. Marine Geology 140 (1997) 1-24
20. Plant N.G., Holland K.T., and Holman R.A. A dynamical attractor governs beach response to storms. Geophysical Research Letters 33 (2006) L17607 10.1029/2006GL027105
21. Plant N.G., Edwards K.L., Kaihatu J.M., Veeramony J., Hsu L., and Holland K.T. The effect of bathymetric filtering on nearshore process model results. Coastal Engineering 56 (2009) 484-493
22. Reniers A.J.H.M., Roelvink J.A., and Thornton E.B. Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing. Journal of Geophysical Research 109 (2004) C01030 10.1029/2002JC001586
23. Ris R.C., Holthuijsen L.H., and Booij N. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions, 2, verification. Journal of Geophysical Research 104 C4 (1999) 7667-7681
24. Roelvink J.A., and Walstra D.J.R. Keeping it simple by using complex models. 6th Int. Conf. on Hydroscience and Engineering (ICHE-2004), May 30-June 3, Brisbane, Australia (2004)
25. Ruessink B.G., Miles J.R., Feddersen F., Guza R.T., and Elgar S. Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research 106 C10 (2001) 22,451-22,463
26. Ruessink B.G., Kuriyama Y., Reniers A.J.H.M., Roelvink J.A., and Walstra D.J.R. Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks. Journal of Geophysical Research 112 (2007) F03010 10.1029/2006JF000730
27. Ruesskink B.G., Van Enckevort I.M.M., Kingston K.S., and Davidson M.A. Analysis of observed two- and three-dimensional nearshore bar behavior. Marine Geology 169 (2000) 161-183
28. Ruggiero P., Kaminsky G.M., and Gelfenbaum G. Linking proxy-based and datum-based shorelines on high-energy coasts: implications for shoreline change analyses. Journal of Coastal Research SI # 38 (2003) 57-82
29. Ruggiero P., Gelfenbaum G., Sherwood C.R., Lacy J., and Buijsman M.C. Linking nearshore processes and morphology measurements to understand large scale coastal change. Proceedings Coastal Sediments '03 (2003), ASCE Press
30. Ruggiero P., Kaminsky G.M., Gelfenbaum G., and Voigt B. Seasonal to interannual morphodynamic variability along a high-energy dissipative littoral cell. Journal of Coastal Research 21 3 (2005) 553-578
31. Ruggiero P., Eshleman J., Kingsley E., Kaminsky G., Thompson D.M., Voigt B., Kaminsky G., and Gelfenbaum G. Beach monitoring in the Columbia River littoral cell: 1997-2005. U. S. Geological Survey Data Series 260 (2007)
32. Smith B., Petter E.B., and Gropp W. Domain Decomposition: Parallel Multilevel Methods for Elliptic Partial Differential Equations (1996), Cambridge University Press ISBN 0521602866, 9780521602860
33. Stelling G.S. On the construction of computational methods for shallow water flow problems. Rijkswaterstaat communications, No. 35 (1984), Rijkswaterstaat, The Hague
34. Stelling G.S., and Leendertse J.J. Approximation of convective processes by cyclic ACI methods. Proceeding 2nd ASCE Conference on Estuarine and Coastal Modelling, Tampa (1991)
35. Thornton E., Humiston R., and Birkemeir W. Bar-trough generation on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 101 (1996) 12097-12110
36. Tillotson K.J., and Komar P.D. The wave climate of the Pacific Northwest (Oregon and Washington): a comparison of data sources. Journal of Coastal Research 13 (1997) 440-452
37. Van Rijn L.C. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. I: initiation of motion, bed roughness, and bed-load transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, ASCE 133 6 (2007) 649-667 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:6(649) June 2007
38. Van Rijn L.C. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. II: suspended transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, ASCE 133 6 (2007) 668-689 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:6(668) June 2007
39. Van Rijn L.C., Walstra D.J.R., Grasmeijer B., Sutherland J., Pan S., and Sierra J.P. The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based Profile models. Coastal Engineering 47 (2003) 295-327
40. Van Rijn L.C., Walstra D.J.R., and Van Ormondt M. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. IV: application of morphodynamic model. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, ASCE 138 8 (2007) 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:7(776) July 2007
41. Walstra D.J.R., Roelvink J.A., and Groeneweg J. Calculation of wave-driven currents in a 3D mean flow model, Proceedings of the 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering (2000), ASCE, Sydney, Australia
42. Walstra D.J.R., Ruggiero P., Lesser G., and Gelfenbaum G. Modeling nearshore morphological evolution at seasonal scale, Proceedings of the 5th Conference on Coastal Dynamics (2005), ASCE, Barcelona, Spain
43. Wright L.D., and Short A.D. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology 56 (1984) 93-118