A reevaluation of coastal embayment rotation: The dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore sediment transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen Beach, southeast Australia

Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface

Volumn 116, Issue 4, 2011, Pages

  Harley, M D ^a,b   Turner, I L ^a   Short, A D ^c   Ranasinghe, R ^d,e,f  

^a UNIVERSITY OF NEW SOUTH WALES   (Australia)

^b UNIVERSITY OF FERRARA   (Italy)

^c UNIVERSITY OF SYDNEY   (Australia)

^d New South Wales Department of Environment Climate Change and Water ^*  (Australia)

^e DELFT UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY   (Netherlands)

^f UNESCO IHE INSTITUTE FOR WATER EDUCATION   (Netherlands)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BEACH MORPHOLOGY; BUOY SYSTEM; COASTAL MORPHOLOGY; COASTAL SEDIMENT; SEDIMENT BUDGET; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; SHORELINE;

AUSTRALIA; NARRABEEN BEACH; NEW SOUTH WALES;

EID: 84855302058     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699011     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2011JF001989     Document Type: Article

References (43)

1. Aubrey, D. G. (1979), Seasonal patterns of onshore-offshore sediment movement, J. Geophys. Res., 84(C10), 6347-6354.
2. Bertin, X., B. Castelle, E. Chaurnillon, R. Butel, and R. Quique (2008), Longshore transport estimation and inter-annual variability at a high-energy dissipative beach: St. Trojan Beach, SW Oleron Island, France, Cont. Shelf Res., 28(10-11), 1316-1332, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2008.03.005.
3. Booij, N., R. C. Ris, and L. H. Holthuijsen (1999), A third-generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C4), 7649-7666. (Pubitemid 29410061)
4. Bryan, K. R., S. L. Gallop, W. I. van de Lageweg, and G. Coco (2009), Observations of rip channels, sandbar-shoreline coupling and beach rotation at Tairua Beach, New Zealand, paper presented at 19th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference (Coasts and Ports), Eng. Aust., Wellington, New Zealand.
5. Caires, S., and A. Sterl (2005), A new nonparametric method to correct model data: application to significant wave height from the ERA-40 re-analysis, J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 22(4), 443-459, doi:10.1175/JTECH1707.1. (Pubitemid 40815717)
6. Caires, S., A. Sterl, and C. P. Gommenginger (2005), Global ocean mean wave period data: Validation and description, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C02003, doi:10.1029/2004JC002631. (Pubitemid 40763111)
7. Clarke, D. J., and I. Eliot (1982), Description of littoral, alongshore sediment movement from empirical eigen-function analysis, J. Geol. Soc. Aust., 29, 327-341.
8. Dail, H. J., M. A. Merrifield, and M. Bevis (2000), Steep beach morphology changes due to energetic wave forcing, Mar. Geol., 162(2-4), 443-458, doi:10.1016/S0025-3227(99)00072-9. (Pubitemid 30153025)
9. Emery, K. O. (1961), A simple method of measuring beach profiles, Limnol. Oceanogr., 6(1), 90-93.
10. Goodwin, I. D. (2005), A mid-shelf, mean wave direction climatology for southeastern Australia, and its relationship to the El Nino-Southern Oscillation since 1878 AD, Int. J. Climatol., 25(13), 1715-1729, doi:10.1002/joc.1207. (Pubitemid 41623042)
11. Hanson, H., and N. C. Kraus (1989), Genesis: Generalized model for simulating shoreline change, Tech. Rep. 1, U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn. Coastal Eng. Res. Cent., Washington, D. C.
12. Harley, M. D., and I. L. Turner (2008), A simple data transformation technique for pre-processing survey data at embayed beaches, Coastal Eng., 55(1), 63-68, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.07.001. (Pubitemid 350131607)
13. Harley, M. D., I. L. Turner, B. D. Morris, A. D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe (2007), Nearshore wave climate and localised erosion during high wave events-SE Australia, paper presented at 18th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference (Coasts and Ports), Eng. Aust., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
14. Harley, M. D., I. L. Turner, A. D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe (2009), An empirical model of beach response to storms-SE Australia, paper presented at 19th Australasian Coastal and Ocean Engineering Conference (Coasts and Ports), Eng. Aust., Wellington, New Zealand.
15. Harley, M. D., I. L. Turner, A. D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe (2010), Interan-nual variability and controls of the Sydney wave climate, Int. J. Climatol., 30(9), 1322-1335, doi:10.1002/joc.1962.
16. Harley, M. D., I. L. Turner, A. D. Short, and R. Ranasinghe (2011), Assessment and integration of conventional, RTK-GPS and image-derived beach survey methods for daily to decadal coastal monitoring, Coastal Eng., 58, 194-205, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.09.006.
17. Hasselmann, K., et al. (1973), Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), technical report, Dtsch. Hydrogr. Inst., Hamburg, Germany.
18. Hegge, B. J., and G. Masselink (1996), Spectral analysis of geomorphic time series: Auto-spectrum, Earth Surf. Processes Landforms, 21(11), 1021-1040.
19. Hemer, M. A., J. A. Church, and J. R. Hunter (2009), Variability and trends in the directional wave climate of the Southern Hemisphere, Int. J. Climatol., 30, 1-17, doi:10.1002/joc.1900.
20. Holman, R. A., and J. Stanley (2007), The history and technical capabilities of Argus, Coastal Eng., 54(6-7), 477-491, doi: 10.1016/j. coastaleng.2007. 01.003. (Pubitemid 46774239)
21. Hsu, T.-W., S.-H. Ou, and S.-K. Wang (1994), On the prediction of beach changes by a new 2-D empirical eigenfunction model, Coastal Eng., 23(3-4), 255-270, doi: 10.1016/0378-3839(94)90005-1.
22. Klein, A., L. Benedet, and D. H. Schumacher (2002), Short-term beach rotation processes in distinct headland bay beach systems, J. Coastal Res., 18(3), 442-458. (Pubitemid 34979206)
23. List, J. H., A. S. Farris, and C. Sullivan (2006), Reversing storm hotspots on sandy beaches: Spatial and temporal characteristics, Mar. Geol., 226(3-4), 261-279, doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2005.10.003. (Pubitemid 43233827)
24. Martins, C. C., M. M. de Mahiques, and J. M. A. Dias (2010), Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model, Earth Surf. Processes Landforms, 35(4), 487-495.
25. Masselink, G., and C. B. Pattiaratchi (2001), Seasonal changes in beach morphology along the sheltered coastline of Perth, Western Australia, Mar. Geol., 172(3-4), 243-263, doi:10.1016/S0025-3227(00)00128-6. (Pubitemid 32205657)
26. Miller, J. K., and R. G. Dean (2007a), Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part I temporal and spatial characteristics, Coastal Eng., 54(2), 111-131, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08. 013. (Pubitemid 44815268)
27. Miller, J. K., and R. G. Dean (2007b), Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part II relationship to nearshore conditions, Coastal Eng., 54(2), 133-150, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08.014. (Pubitemid 44815267)
28. Morris, B. D., and I. L. Turner (2010), Morphodynamics of intermittently open-closed coastal lagoon entrances: New insights and a conceptual model, Mar. Geol., 271(1-2), 55-66, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2010.01.009.
29. Ojeda, E., and J. Guillen (2008), Shoreline dynamics and beach rotation of artificial embayed beaches, Mar. Geol., 253(1-2), 51-62, doi:10.1016/j. margeo.2008.03.010.
30. Quartel, S., A. Kroon, and B. G. Ruessink (2008), Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach, Mar. Geol., 250(1-2), 19-33, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2007.11.003.
31. Ranasinghe, R., R. McLoughlin, A. Short, and G. Symonds (2004), The Southern Oscillation Index, wave climate, and beach rotation, Mar. Geol., 204(3-4), 273-287, doi:10.1016/S0025-3227(04)00002-7. (Pubitemid 38431133)
32. Short, A. D. (2007), Beaches of the New South Wales Coast, 2nd ed., Sydney Univ. Press, Sydney, N. S. W., Australia.
33. Short, A. D., and G. Masselink (1999), Embayed and structurally controlled beaches, in Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics, edited by A. Short, pp. 230-250, John Wiley, Chichester, U. K.
34. Short, A. D., and A. C. Trembanis (2004), Decadal scale patterns in beach oscillation and rotation Narrabeen Beach, Australia-Time series, PCA and wavelet analysis, J. Coastal Res., 20(2), 523-532. (Pubitemid 38965282)
35. Short, A. D., and N. L. Trenaman (1992), Wave climate of the Sydney region, an energetic and highly variable ocean wave regime, Aust. J. Mar. Freshwater Res., 43(4), 765-791.
36. Short, A. D., and L. D. Wright (1981), Beach systems of the Sydney region, Aust. Geogr., 15, 8-16.
37. Short, A. D., P. J. Cowell, M. Cadee, W. Hall, and B. van Dijck (1995), Beach rotation and possible relation to the Southern Oscillation, paper presented at Ocean and Atmosphere Pacific International Conference, Natl. Tidal Facil., Adelaide, South Aust., Australia.
38. Sterl, A., and S. Caires (2005), Climatology, variability and extrema of ocean waves: The web-based KNMI/ERA-40 wave atlas, Int. J. Climatol., 25(7), 963-977, doi:10.1002/joc.1175. (Pubitemid 40906768)
39. Thom, B. G., and W. Hall (1991), Behaviour of beach profiles during accretion and erosion dominated periods, Earth Surf. Processes Landforms, 16, 113-127.
40. Thom, B. G., R. McLean, T. Langford-Smith, and I. Eliot (1973), Seasonal beach change, central and south coast, N. S. W., paper presented at 1st Australian Conference on Coastal Engineering, Inst. of Eng., Sydney, N. S. W., Australia. U.S.
41. Army Corps of Engineers (1984), Shore Protection Manual, vol. 2, 4th ed., Dep. of the Army, Washington, D.C.
42. Winant, C. D., D. L. Inman, and C. E. Nordstrom (1975), Description of seasonal beach changes using empirical eigenfunctions, J. Geophys. Res., 80(15), 1979-1986.
43. Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short (1984), Morphodynamic variabililty of surf zones and beaches-a synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56(1-4), 93-118. (Pubitemid 14584448)