An equilibrium model to predict shoreline rotation of pocket beaches

Marine Geology

Volumn 346, Issue , 2013, Pages 220-232

  Turki, I ^a,b   Medina, R ^a   Coco, G ^a   Gonzalez, M ^a  

^a ENVIRONMENTAL HYDRAULICS INSTITUTE IH CANTABRIA   (Spain)

^b UNIVERSITÉ DE ROUEN   (France)

Author keywords

Beach rotation; Beach evolution model; Pocket beach; Shoreline response

Indexed keywords

BARCELONA; EQUILIBRIUM MODELING; FIELD OBSERVATIONS; SHORELINE RESPONSE; TEMPORAL PATTERN; VIDEO IMAGE;

ROTATION;

BEACHES;

BEACH; EMBANKMENT; IMAGE ANALYSIS; NUMERICAL MODEL; PHASE EQUILIBRIUM; SHORELINE; TEMPORAL VARIATION; TIME SERIES;

BARCELONA [CATALONIA]; CATALONIA; SPAIN;

EID: 84886437202     PISSN: 00253227     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2013.08.002     Document Type: Article

References (46)

1. Birkemeier W.A. Field data on seaward limit of profile change. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 1985, 111:569-587.
2. Boker-Hedegaad I., Deigaard R. Onshore/offshore sediment transport and morphological modelling of coastal profiles, in processing. Coastal Sediments 1991, 91:643-657.
3. Capobianco M., Larson M., Nicholls R.J., Kraus N.C. Depth of Closure: A Contribution of the Reconciliation of Theory, Practise and Evidence, in Coastal Dynamic 1997, 97:506-515.
4. Dabees M., Kamphius J.W. N-line: efficient modelling of 3-d beach change. Proceeding. 27th Coastal Engineering Conference 2000, 2700-2713. ASCE. New York ASCE (Ed.).
5. Davidson M.A., Turner I.L. A behavioural-template beach profile model for predicting seasonal to interannual shoreline evolution. Journal of Geophysical Research - Earth Surface 2008, 24:114. 10.1029/2007JF000888.
6. Davidson M., Turner I.L., Guza R.T. The effect of temporal wave averaging on the performance of an empirical shoreline evolution model. Coastal Engineering 2011, 58:802-805.
7. De Vriend H.J.D., Capobianco M., Chesher T., Swart T. Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology. Coastal Engineering 1993, 21:225-269.
8. De Vriend H.J.D., Zyserman J., Roelvink J. Medium-term 2DH coastal area modelling. Coastal Engineering 1993, 21:193-224.
9. Dean R.G. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Paper presented at Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone 1973, Institute of Engineering, Sydney, N.S.W., Australia.
10. Dean R.G. Equilibrium Beach Profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Technical Report 1977.
11. Gourlay M.R. Beach and Dune Erosion Tests 1968, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, Netherlands, (Rep. m935/m936).
12. Hanson H. GENESIS: a generalised shoreline change numerical model. Journal of Coastal Research 1989, 5:1-27.
13. Hanson H., Kraus N.C. Genesis: generalized model for simulating shoreline change. Proceeding. 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 1989, 4:3762-3773.
14. Harley M.D., Turner I.L., Short A.D., Ranasinghe R. Interannual variability and controls of the Sydney wave climate. International Journal of Climatology 2010, 30:1322-1335.
15. Harley M.D., Turner I.L., Short A.D., Ranasinghe R. A re-evaluation of coastal embayment rotation: the dominance of cross-shore versus alongshore sediment transport processes, Collaroy-Narrabeen, beach, Australia. Journal of Geophysical Research 2012, 116:F04033. 10.1029/2011JF001,989.
16. Holman R.A., Stanley J. The history and technical capabilities of Argus. Coastal Engineering 2007, 54:477-491.
17. Inman D.L., Bagnold R.A. Littoral Processes 1963, vol. 3. Wiley-Interscience, New York.
18. Komar P.D. Beach Processes and Sedimentation 1998, (Ph.D. thesis), Prentice Hall, Upper Saddle River (N.J.).
19. Komar P.D., Inman D.L. Longshore sand transport on beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research 1970, 75(30):5914-5927.
20. Kraus N.C. Generalized Model for Simulating Shoreline Change. Technical Report 1991, Department of Water Resources Engineering Lund Institute of Science and Technology, University of Lund, Box 118, Lund, Sweden.
21. Kriebel D.L. Verification study of a dune erosion model. Shore and Beach 1986, 54 (3):13-21.
22. Kriebel D. Beach and Dune Response to Hurricanes 1998, (Ph.D. thesis), Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE.
23. Kriebel D., Dean R.G. Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion. Coastal Engineering 1970, 9:221-245.
24. Kriebel L.D., Dean R.G. Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 1985, 9:221-245.
25. Larson M., Kraus N.C. Sbeach: Numerical Model to Simulate Storm-induced Beach Change. Technical Report 1989, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Waterway Experiment Station, Vicksburg.
26. Miller J., Dean R. A simple new shoreline change model. Coastal Engineering 2004, 51(7):531-556.
27. Miller J.K., Dean R. Part II Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: relationship to nearshore conditions. Coastal Engineering 2007, 54:133-150.
28. Ojeda E., Guillén J. Shoreline dynamics of embayed beaches. Marine Geology 2008, 253:51-62. 10.2112/07-0886.1.
29. Ozasa H., Brampton A.H. Mathematical modelling of beaches backed by seawalls. Coastal Engineering 1980, 4(1):47-63.
30. Pernard-Considère R. Essai de théorie de l'évolution des formes de rivage en plages de sable et de galets, in IV Journées de l'Hydraulique, Les énergies de la Mer, Paris 1954.
31. Plant N.G., Holman R.A., Freilich M.H., Birkemeier W.A. A simple model for inter-annual bar behaviour. Journal of Geophysical Research 1999, 104(C7):15,755-15,776.
32. Reguero B.G., Mendez F.J., Minguez R., Losada I.J. A global ocean wave (GOW) calibrated reanalysis from 1948 onwards. Coastal Engineering 2012, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.03.003.
33. Roelvink J.A., Broker I. Cross-shore profile models. Coastal Engineering 1993, 21:163-191.
34. Roelvink J.A., Van Banning G.K.F.M. Design and development of DELFT3D and application to coastal morphodynamics. Hydroinformatics 1994, 94:451-455.
35. Short A.D., Trembanis A.C., Turner I.L. Beach oscillation, rotation and the southern oscillation, Narraben beach. Proceeding. 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Australia 2000, 2439-2456.
36. Stive M.J.F., Battjes J.A. A model for offshore sediment transport. Proceeding. 19th Coastal Engineering Conference 1984, 1420-1436. ASCE, New York.
37. Sunamura T., Maruyama K. Wave-induced geomorphic response of eroding beaches with special reference to seaward migrating bars. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments 87, New Orleans 1987, 788-801.
38. Swart D.H. Offshore Sediment Transport and Equilibrium Beach Profiles 1974, (Ph.D. thesis), Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, The Netherlands.
39. Turki I. Department of Science and Water and Environmental Techniques 2011, (Ph.D. thesis), University of Cantabria, Santander, Spain.
40. Turki I., Medina R., Gonzalez M., Coco G. Natural variability of shoreline position: observations at three pocket beaches. Marine Geology 2013, 338:76-89. 10.1016/j.margeo.2012.10.007.
41. Valle D., Medina R., Losada M.A. Dependence of coefficient k on grain size. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 1993, 568-574.
42. Van Rijin A.G., Walstra D.J.R., Sutherland B. The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based profile models. Coastal Engineering 2003, 47:295-327.
43. Werner B.T. Modeling landforms as self-organized, hierarchical dynamical systems. Geophysical Monograph Series 2003, 133-150. American Geophysical Union, Washington, DC, USA. P.R. Wilcock, R.M. Iverson (Eds.).
44. Wright L., Short A., Green M. Short-term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: an empirical predictive model. Marine Geology 1985, 62:339-364.
45. Yates M.L., Guza R.T., Reilly W.C.O. Equilibrium shoreline response: observations and modelling. Journal of Geophysical Research 2009, 114. 10.1029/2009JC005359.
46. Zheng I., Dean R.G. Numerical models and intercomparisons of beach profile evolution. Coastal Engineering 1997, 30:169-201.