Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum

International Journal of Pharmaceutics

Volumn 441, Issue 1-2, 2013, Pages 192-201

  Mohammed, D ^a   Crowther, J M ^b   Matts, P J ^c   Hadgraft, J ^a   Lane, M E ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF LONDON   (United Kingdom)

^b Independent Skin Consultant   (United Kingdom)

^c PROCTER AND GAMBLE COMPANY   (United States)

Author keywords

Confocal Raman spectroscopy; KLK5; KLK7; Niacinamide; TEWL

Indexed keywords

KALLIKREIN; NICOTINAMIDE; PROTEINASE;

ADULT; ARTICLE; BIOPHYSICS; CELL SURFACE; CONTROLLED STUDY; DRUG FORMULATION; ENZYME ACTIVITY; FEMALE; HUMAN; HUMAN CELL; HUMAN EXPERIMENT; MALE; NONHUMAN; NORMAL HUMAN; PERMEABILITY BARRIER; PRIORITY JOURNAL; RAMAN SPECTROMETRY; SKIN WATER LOSS; SKINFOLD THICKNESS; STRATUM CORNEUM;

ADMINISTRATION, CUTANEOUS; ADULT; FEMALE; FIBRINOLYSIN; HUMANS; INFLAMMATION; KALLIKREINS; MALE; NIACINAMIDE; SKIN; SPECTRUM ANALYSIS, RAMAN; TRYPTASES; VITAMIN B COMPLEX; WATER LOSS, INSENSIBLE; YOUNG ADULT;

EID: 84872814345     PISSN: 03785173     EISSN: 18733476     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.11.043     Document Type: Article

References (32)

1. S.J. Bashir, A.L. Chew, A. Anigbogu, F. Dreher, and H.I. Maibach Physical and physiological effects of stratum corneum tape stripping Skin Res.Technol. 7 2001 40 48
2. D. Bissett Topical niacinamide and barrier enhancement Cutis 70 2002 8 12
3. D.L. Bissett, K. Miyamoto, P. Sun, J. Li, and C.A. Berge Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin1 Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 26 2004 231 238
4. D.L. Bissett, J.E. Oblong, and C.A. Berge Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance Dermatol. Surg. 31 2005 860 865
5. A. Bornkessel, M. Flach, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, and J.W. Fluhr Functional assessment of a washing emulsion for sensitive skin: mild impairment of stratum corneum hydration, pH, barrier function, lipid content, integrity and cohesion in a controlled washing test Skin Res. Technol. 11 2005 53 60
6. M. Brattsand, K. Stefansson, C. Lundh, Y. Haasum, and T. Egelrud A proteolytic cascade of kallikreins in the stratum corneum J. Invest. Dermatol. 124 2004 198 203
7. P.J. Caspers, G.W. Lucassen, H.A. Bruining, and G.J. Puppels Automated depth-scanning confocal Raman microspectrometer for rapid in vivo determination of water concentration profiles in human skin J. Raman Spectrosc. 31 2000 813 818
8. J.S. Comaish, R.H. Felix, and H. Mcgrath Topically applied niacinamide in isoniazid-induced pellagra Arch. Dermatol. 112 1976 70 72
9. J.M. Crowther, A. Sieg, P. Blenkiron, C. Marcott, P.J. Matts, J.R. Kaczvinsky, and A.V. Rawlings Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo Br. J. Dermatol. 159 2008 567 577
10. L. Declercq, N. Muizzuddin, L. Hellemans, L. Van Overloop, R. Sparacio, K. Marenus, and D. Maes Adaptation response in human skin barrier to a hot and dry environment J. Invest. Dermatol. 119 2002 716
11. Z.D. Draelos, K. Ertel, and C. Berge Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea Cutis 76 2005 135 141
12. F. Dreher, A. Arens, J.J. Hostynek, S. Mudumba, J. Ademola, and H.I. Maibach Colorimetric method for quantifying human Stratum corneum removed by adhesive-tape stripping Acta Derm. Venereol. 78 1998 186 189
13. W. Gehring Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 3 2004 88 93
14. T. Hakozaki, L. Minwalla, J. Zhuang, M. Chhoa, A. Matsubara, K. Miyamoto, A. Greatens, G.G. Hillebrand, D.L. Bissett, and R.E. Boissy The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer Br. J. Dermatol. 147 2002 20 31
15. T. Hirao, M. Denda, and M. Takahashi Identification of immature cornified envelopes in the barrier-impaired epidermis by characterization of their hydrophobicity and antigenicities of the components Exp. Dermatol. 10 2001 35 44
16. E. Holzle, and G. Plewig Effect of dermatitis, stripping, and steroid on the morphology of corneocytes. A new bioassay J. Invest. Dermatol. 68 1977 350 356
17. Y. Katsuta, Y. Yoshida, E. Kawai, Y. Kohno, and K. Kitamura Urokinase-type plasminogen activator is activated in stratum corneum after barrier disruption J. Dermatol. Sci. 32 2003 55 57
18. M. Kawai, G. Imokawa, and M. Mizoguchi Physiological analysis of the facial skin by corneocyte morphology and stratum corneum turnover Nippon Hifuka Gakkai Zasshi 99 1989 999 1006
19. A.B. Kimball, J.R. Kaczvinsky, J. Li, L.R. Robinson, P.J. Matts, C.A. Berge, K. Miyamoto, and D.L. Bissett Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial Br. J. Dermatol. 162 2010 435 441
20. A.M. Kligman Corneobiology and corneotherapy-a final chapter Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 33 2011 197 209
21. N. Komatsu, K. Saijoh, M. Sidiropoulos, B. Tsai, M.A. Levesque, M.B. Elliott, K. Takehara, and E.P. Diamandis Quantification of human tissue kallikreins in the stratum corneum: dependence on age and gender J. Invest. Dermatol. 125 2005 1182 1189
22. P.J. Matts, J. Gray, and A.V. Rawlings The 'dry skin cycle'-a new model of dry skin and mechanisms for intervention International Congress and Symposium Series 2005 The Royal Society of Medicine Press Ltd. London 1 38 256
23. D. Mohammed, P.J. Matts, J. Hadgraft, and M.E. Lane Depth profiling of stratum corneum biophysical and molecular properties Br. J. Dermatol. 164 2011 957 965
24. D. Mohammed, P.J. Matts, J. Hadgraft, and M.E. Lane Influence of aqueous cream BP on corneocyte size, maturity, skin protease activity, protein content and transepidermal water loss Br. J. Dermatol. 164 2011 1304 1310
25. D. Mohammed, Q. Yang, R.H. Guy, P.J. Matts, J. Hadgraft, and M.E. Lane Comparison of gravimetric and spectroscopic methods for estimation of SC thickness Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm. 82 2012 171 174
26. U. Reichert, S. Michel, and R. Schmidt The cornified envelope: a key structure of terminally differentiating keratinocytes M. Darmon, M. Blumenberg, Molecular Biology of the Skin: The Keratinocyte 1993 Academic Press California 107 150
27. D. Roberts, and R. Marks The determination of regional and age variations in the rate of desquamation: a comparison of four techniques J. Invest. Dermatol. 74 1980 13 16
28. O. Tanno, Y. Ota, N. Kitamura, T. Katsube, and S. Inoue Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier Br. J. Dermatol. 143 2000 524 531
29. R. Voegeli, J. Heiland, S. Doppler, A.V. Rawlings, and T. Schreier Efficient and simple quantification of stratum corneum proteins on tape strippings by infrared densitometry Skin Res. Technol. 13 2007 242 251
30. R. Voegeli, A.V. Rawlings, S. Doppler, J. Heiland, and T. Schreier Profiling of serine protease activities in human stratum corneum and detection of a stratum corneum tryptase-like enzyme Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 29 2007 191 200
31. R. Voegeli, A.V. Rawlings, M. Breternitz, S. Doppler, T. Schreier, and J.W. Fluhr Increased stratum corneum serine protease activity in acute eczematous atopic skin Br. J. Dermatol. 161 2009 70 77
32. A. Watkinson, R.S. Lee, A.E. Moore, S.E. Paterson, P. Pudney, and A.V. Rawlings Is the axilla a distinct skin phenotype? Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 29 2007 60