Effect of ethnicity, gender and age on the amount and composition of residual skin surface components derived from sebum, sweat and epidermal lipids

Skin Research and Technology

Volumn 20, Issue 1, 2014, Pages 97-107

  Shetage, Satyajit S ^a   Traynor, Matthew J ^a   Brown, Marc B ^a,b   Raji, Mahad ^a   Graham Kalio, Diepiriye ^a   Chilcott, Robert P ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF HERTFORDSHIRE   (United Kingdom)

^b MEDPHARM LTD   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

Age; Cigarette paper; Ethnicity; Gas chromatography mass spectrometry; Gender; Sebum; Skin surface lipids

Indexed keywords

AGE; CIGARETTE PAPER; ETHNICITY; GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY-MASS SPECTROMETRY; GENDER; SEBUM; SKIN SURFACES;

GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY; MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS; MIXTURES; PAPER; RECOVERY;

SOCIAL SCIENCES;

SKIN LIPID;

ADULT; ARTICLE; BODY COMPOSITION; CLINICAL ASSESSMENT; ETHNICITY; FEMALE; GRAVIMETRY; GROUPS BY AGE; HUMAN; MALE; MASS FRAGMENTOGRAPHY; NORMAL HUMAN; SEBUM; SKIN SURFACE; SWEAT; YOUNG ADULT;

AGE; CIGARETTE PAPER; ETHNICITY; GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY-MASS SPECTROMETRY; GENDER; SEBUM; SKIN SURFACE LIPIDS;

ADOLESCENT; ADULT; AFRICAN CONTINENTAL ANCESTRY GROUP; AGING; ASIAN CONTINENTAL ANCESTRY GROUP; EPIDERMIS; EUROPEAN CONTINENTAL ANCESTRY GROUP; FEMALE; GREAT BRITAIN; HUMANS; LIPIDS; MALE; SEBUM; SEX FACTORS; SURFACE PROPERTIES; YOUNG ADULT;

EID: 84892368962     PISSN: 0909752X     EISSN: 16000846     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/srt.12091     Document Type: Article

References (56)

1. Williams A. Transdermal and topical drug delivery: from theory to clinical practice. London, UK: Pharmaceutical Press London, 2003.
2. Chilcott R. Cutaneous anatomy and function. In: Chilcott R and Price S, eds. Principles and practice of skin toxicology, West Sussex, England: Wiley Online Library; 2008: 4-16.
3. Clarys P, Barel A. Quantitative evaluation of skin surface lipids. Clin Dermatol 1995; 13: 307-321.
4. Wertz PW, Michniak BB. Sebum. In: Elsner P and Maibach HI, eds. Cosmeceuticals: drugs vs. cosmetics, New York: Marcel and Dekker Inc.; 2004: 45-56.
5. Stewart ME, Downing DT. Measurement of sebum secretion rates in young children. J Invest Dermatol 1985; 84: 59-61.
6. Stewart ME, Downing DT, Pochi PE, Strauss JS. The fatty acids of human sebaceous gland phosphatidylcholine. Biochim Biophys Acta 1978; 529: 380-386.
7. Greene RS, Downing DT, Pochi PE, Strauss JS. Anatomical variations in the amount and composition of human skin surface lipid. J Invest Dermatol 1970; 54: 240-247.
8. Kligman AM. The uses of sebum. Br J Dermatol 1963; 75: 307-319.
9. Thody AJ, Shuster S. Control and function of sebaceous glands. Physiol Rev 1989; 69: 383-416.
10. Porter AM. Why do we have apocrine and sebaceous glands? J R Soc Med 2001; 94: 236.
11. Kydonieusb A, Wille JJ. Palmitoleic acid isomer (C16: 1¢ 6) in human skin sebum is effective against gram-positive bacteria. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2003; 16: 176-187.
12. Rode B, Ivens U, Serup J. Degreasing method for the seborrheic areas with respect to regaining sebum excretion rate to casual level. Skin Res Technol 2000; 6: 92-97.
13. Faergemann J, Zehender H, Denouel J, Millerioux L. Levels of terbinafine in plasma, stratum corneum, dermis-epidermis (without stratum corneum), sebum, hair and nails during and after 250 mg terbinafine orally once per day for four weeks. Acta Derm Venereol 1993; 73: 305.
14. Iida T, Hirakawai H, Matsueda T, Takenaka S, Yu ML, Leon Guo YL. Recent trend of polychlorinated dibenzo-p-dioxins and their related compounds in the blood and sebum of Yusho and Yu-Cheng patients. Chemosphere 1999; 38: 981-993.
15. Cauwenbergh G, Degreef H, Heykants J, Woestenborghs R, van Rooy P, Haeverans K. Pharmacokinetic profile of orally administered itraconazole in human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 1988; 18: 263-268.
16. Thiele JJ, Weber SU, Packer L. Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin. J Invest Dermatol 1999; 113: 1006-1010.
17. Hodgson-Jones I, Wheatley V. Studies of sebum. 3. Methods for the collection and estimation of small amounts of sebum. Biochem J 1952; 52: 460.
18. Downing DT, Strauss JS, Pochi PE. Variability in the chemical composition of human skin surface lipids. J Invest Dermatol 1969; 53: 322-327.
19. Strauss JS, Pochi PE. The quantitative gravimetric determination of sebum production. J Invest Dermatol 1961; 36: 293-298.
20. Cunliffe W, Shuster S. The rate of sebum excretion in man. Br J Dermatol 1969; 81: 697-704.
21. Lookingbill D, Cunliffe W. A direct gravimetric technique for measuring sebum excretion rate. Br J Dermatol 1986; 114: 75-81.
22. Ramasastry P, Downing D, Pochi P, Strauss J. Chemical composition of human skin surface lipids from birth to puberty. J Invest Dermatol 1970; 54: 139-144.
23. Kligman AM, Miller DL. Sebutape: a device for visualising and measuring human sebaceous secretion. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1986; 37: 369-374.
24. Jacobsen E, Billings JK, Frantz RA, Kinney CK, Stewart ME, Downing DT. Age-related changes in sebaceous wax ester secretion rates in men and women. J Invest Dermatol 1985; 85: 483-485.
25. James A, Wheatley V. Studies of sebum. 6. The determination of the component fatty acids of human forearm sebum by gas-liquid chromatography. Biochem J 1956; 63: 269.
26. Michael-Jubeli R, Bleton J, Baillet-Guffroy A. High-temperature gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for skin surface lipids profiling. J Lipid Res 2011; 52: 143-151.
27. Anderson A, Fulton J. Sebum: analysis by infrared spectroscopy. J Invest Dermatol 1973; 60: 115-120.
28. Roh M, Han M, Kim D, Chung K. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. Br J Dermatol 2006; 155: 890-894.
29. Wilhelm KP, Cua AB, Maibach HI. Skin aging: effect on transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface pH, and casual sebum content. Arch Dermatol 1991; 127: 1806.
30. Lu GW, Valiveti S, Spence J, Zhuang C, Robosky L, Wade K, Love A, Hu LY, Pole D, Mollan M. Comparison of artificial sebum with human and hamster sebum samples. Int J Pharm 2009; 367: 37-43.
31. Stefaniak AB, Harvey CJ, Wertz PW. Formulation and stability of a novel artificial sebum under conditions of storage and use. Int J Cosmet Sci 2010; 32: 347-355.
32. Buckley WR, Lewis CE. The "ruster" in industry. J Occup Med 1960; 2: 23-31.
33. Wakefield JC, Kaur, K, Chilcott RP. A preliminary study for assessing the feasibility of sebum sampling for monitoring human exposure to environmental chemicals following inadvertent or malicious release. Toxicology 2008; 253: 123.
34. Sakai S, Endo Y, Ozawa N, Sugawara T, Kusaka A, Sayo T, Tagami H, Inoue S. Characteristics of the epidermis and stratum corneum of hairless mice with experimentally induced diabetes mellitus. J Invest Dermatol 2003; 120: 79-85.
35. Seirafi H, Farsinejad K, Firooz A, Davoudi SM, Robati RM, Hoseini MS, Ehsani AH, Sadr B. Biophysical characteristics of skin in diabetes: a controlled study. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2009; 23: 146-149.
36. Household Questionnaire- England Census 2011. 2011. Available from: http://www.ons.gov.uk/ons/guide-method/census/2011/the-2011-census/2011-census-questionnaire-content/index.html [accessed on 18 December 2011].
37. Vaule H, Leonard S, Traber M. Vitamin E delivery to human skin: studies using deuterated [alpha]-tocopherol measured by APCI LC-MS. Free Radic Biol Med 2004; 36: 456-463.
38. Faul F, Erdfelder E, Lang AG, Buchner A. G* Power 3: a flexible statistical power analysis program for the social, behavioral, and biomedical sciences. Behav Res Methods 2007; 39: 175-191.
39. Jacobi U, Gautier J, Sterry W, Lademann J. Gender-related differences in the physiology of the stratum corneum. Dermatology 2007; 211: 312-317.
40. Prajapati B, Dunne M, Armstrong R. Sample size estimation and statistical power analyses. Optometry Today 2010; 16: 123-132.
41. Marrakchi S, Maibach HI. Biophysical parameters of skin: map of human face, regional, and age related differences. Contact Dermatitis 2007; 57: 28-34.
42. Cotterill J, Cunliffe W, Williamson B, Bulusu L. Age and sex variation in skin surface lipid composition and sebum excretion rate. Br J Dermatol 1972; 87: 333-340.
43. Li S, Guz NV, Sokolov I. A modified in vitro stripping method to automate the calculation of geometry of corneocytes imaged with fluorescent microscopy: example of moisturizer treatment. Skin Res Technol 2011; 17: 213-219.
44. Cunliffe W, Cotterill J, Williamson B. Variations in skin surface lipid composition with different sampling techniques-I. Br J Dermatol 1971; 85: 40-45.
45. Nicolaides N, Kellum R. Skin lipids. I. Sampling problems of the skin and its appendages. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1965; 42: 685-690.
46. Nouveau S, Bastien P, Baldo F, de Lacharriere O. Effects of topical DHEA on aging skin: a pilot study. Maturitas 2008; 59: 174-181.
47. Giltay E, Gooren L. Effects of sex steroid deprivation/administration on hair growth and skin sebum production in transsexual males and females. J Clin Endocrinol Metab 2000; 85: 2913.
48. Piérard-Franchimont C, Piérard G. Postmenopausal aging of the sebaceous follicle: a comparison between women receiving hormone replacement therapy or not. Dermatology 2000; 204: 17-22.
49. Strauss JS, Pochi P. The human sebaceous gland: its regulation by steroidal hormones and its use as an end organ for assaying androgenecity in vivo. Recent Prog Horm Res 1963; 19: 385.
50. Man MQ, Xin SJ, Song SP, Cho SY, Zhang XJ, Tu CX, Feingold KR, Elias PM. Variation of skin surface pH, sebum content and stratum corneum hydration with age and gender in a large Chinese population. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2009; 22: 190-199.
51. Hillebrand GG, Levine MJ, Miyamoto K. The age dependent changes in skin condition in African Americans, Asian Indians, Caucasians, East Asians & Latinos. IFSCC Mag 2001; 4: 259-266.
52. Rawlings AV. Ethnic skin types: are there differences in skin structure and function? Int J Cosmet Sci 2006; 28: 79-93.
53. Millns JL, Maibach HI. Mechanisms of sebum production and delivery in man. Arch Dermatol Res 1982; 272: 351-362.
54. Eberhardt H. The regulation of sebum excretion in man. Arch Dermatol Res 1974; 251: 155-164.
55. Kligman AM, Shelley WB. An investigation of the biology of the human sebaceous gland. J Invest Dermatol 1958; 30: 99-125.
56. Harris HH, Downing DT, Stewart ME, Strauss JS. Sustainable rates of sebum secretion in acne patients and matched normal control subjects. J Am Acad Dermatol 1983; 8: 200-203.