Equilibrium shoreline response: Observations and modeling

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 114, Issue 9, 2009, Pages

  Yates, M L ^a   Guza, R T ^a   O'Reilly, W C ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BEACHES; OCEAN CURRENTS; PARAMETER ESTIMATION; SEA LEVEL; SEDIMENTS; SURVEYS; TIME SERIES; WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION;

BEACH RESPONSE; FREE PARAMETERS; INCIDENT WAVE ENERGY; LOW ENERGIES; MEAN SEA LEVEL; MODEL FREE; MODEL PERFORMANCE; SAND GRAIN SIZE; SEASONAL FLUCTUATIONS; SEDIMENT AVAILABILITY; SHORELINE CHANGE; SHORELINE CHANGE MODEL; SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA; TIME PERIODS; WAVE CLIMATES; WAVE ENERGY;

GEOLOGIC MODELS;

ACCRETION; BEACH MORPHOLOGY; BEDROCK; GEOLOGICAL RECORD; GRAIN SIZE; MODELING; OBSERVATIONAL METHOD; SEA LEVEL; SHORELINE CHANGE; WAVE CLIMATE; WAVE ENERGY;

CALIFORNIA; UNITED STATES;

PINUS TORREYANA;

EID: 72849151827     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2009JC005359     Document Type: Article

References (44)

1. Alexander, P. S., and R. A. Holman (2004), Quantification of nearshore morphology based on video imaging, Mar. Geol., 208, 101-111.
2. Anthony, E. J. (1998), Sediment-wave parametric characterization of beaches, J. Coastal Res., 14(1), 347-352.
3. Aubrey, D. G. (1979), Seasonal patterns of onshore/offshore sediment movement, J. Geophys. Res., 84, 6347 - 6354.
4. Aubrey, D. G., D. L. Inman, and C. D. Winant (1980), The statistical prediction of beach changes in southern California, J. Geophys. Res., 85, 3264-3276.
5. Bailard, J. A. (1981), An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach, / Geophys. Res., 86, 938-954.
6. Barth, N., and C. Wunsch (1990), Oceanographic experiment design by simulated annealing, / Phys. Ocean., 20, 1249-1263.
7. Booker, A. J., J. E. Inman, P. D. Frank, D. B. Serafini, V. Torczon, and M. W. Trosset (1999), A rigorous framework for optimization of expensive functions by surrogates, Struct. Multidiscip. Optim., 17, 1-13.
8. Bruun, P. (1954), Coastal erosion and development of beach profiles, Tech. Memo. 44, U.S. Army Corps of Eng., Washington, D. C.
9. Dalrymple, R. A. (1992), Prediction of storm/normal beach profiles, / Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 118, 193 -200.
10. Dean, R. G. (1973), Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone, paper presented at Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Inst, of Eng., Sydney, N. S. W, Australia.
11. Dean, R. G. (1977), Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf coasts, Technical Report No. 12, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware.
12. Dean, R. G. (1991), Equilibrium beach profiles: Characteristics and applications, J. Coastal Res., 7, 53-84.
13. Dong, P., and K. Zhang (2002), Intense near-bed sediment motions in waves and currents, Coastal Eng., 45, 75-87.
14. Drake, T. G., and J. Calantoni (2001), Discrete particle model for sheet flow sediment transport, / Geophys. Res., 106(C9), 19,859-19,868.
15. Dubois, R. N. (1990), Barrier-beach erosion and rising sea level, Geology, 18, 1150-1152.
16. Gallagher, E. L., S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza (1998), Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach, J Geophys. Res., 103(C2), 3203-3215.
17. Gourlay, M. R. (1968), Beach and dune erosion tests, Delft Hydraulics Lab. Rep. m935/m936. Delft, Netherlands.
18. Hoefel, F, and S. Elgar (2003), Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration, Science, 299, 1885-1887, doi:10.1126/science. 1081448.
19. Hsu, T.-J., J. T. Jenkins, and P. L.-F. Liu (2004), On two-phase sediment transport: Sheet flow of massive particles, Proc. R. Soc. London Ser. (A), 460, 2223 -2250, doi:10.1098/rspa.2003.1273.
20. Inman, D. L., M. H. S. Elwany, and S. A. Jenkins (1993), Shorerise and bar-berm profiles on ocean beaches, J. Geophys. Res., PS(CIO), 18,181-18,199.
21. Jimenez, J. A., J. Guillen, and A. Falques (2008), Comment on the article "Morphodynamic classification of sandy beaches in low energetic marine environment" by G6mez-Pujol, L, Orfila, A., Ca nellas, B., Alvarez- Ellacuria, A., Mendez, F. J., Medina, R., and Tintore, J., Mar. Geol., 242, 235-246.
22. 2007, Mar. Geol., 255, 96-101.
23. Kriebel, D. L., and R. G. Dean (1985), Numerical simulation of time- dependent beach and dune erosion, Coastal Eng., 9, 221-245.
24. Kriebel, D. L., and R. G. Dean (1993), Convolution method for time- dependent beach profile response, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 119, 204-226.
25. Larson, M., and N. C. Kraus (1989), SBEACH: Numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change, Tech. Rep. CERC-89-9, U.S. Army Corps of Eng., Vicksburg, Miss.
26. Larson, M., M. Capobianco, and H. Hanson (2000), Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis, Mar. Geol, 160, 275 -288.
27. Lee, G., R. J. Nicholls, and W. A. Birkemeier (1998), Storm-driven variability of the beach-nearshore profile at Duck, North Carolina, USA, 1981-1991, Mar. Geol, 148, 163-177.
28. List, J. H., and A. S. Farris (1999), Large-scale shoreline response to storms and fair weather, in Coastal Sediments '99, edited by N. C. Kraus and W. G. McDougal, pp. 1324-1338, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
29. Marsden, A. L., M. Wang, J. E. Dennis, and P. Moin (2004), Optimal aerocoustic shape design using the surrogate management framework, Optim. Eng., 5, 235-262.
30. Masselink, G., and A. D. Short (1993), The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: A conceptual beach model, J. Coastal Res., 9(3), 785-800.
31. Miller, J. A., and R. G. Dean (2006), An engineering scale model for predicting the shoreline response to variations in waves and water levels, in Coastal Engineering 2006: Proceedings of the 30th International Conference: San Diego, California, USA, 3-8 September 2006, edited by J. McKee Smith, pp. 3554-3566, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
32. Miller, J. A., and R. G. Dean (2007), Shoreline variability via empirical orthogonal function analysis: Part II. Relationship to nearshore conditions, Coastal Eng., 54, 133-150.
33. Miller, J. K., and R. G. Dean (2004), A simple new shoreline change model, Coastal Eng., 51, 531-556.
34. Morton, R. A., J. C. Gibeaut, and J. G. Paine (1995), Meso-scale transfer of sand during and after storms: Implications for prediction of shoreline movement, Mar. Geol, 126, 161-179.
35. O'Reilly, W. C, and R. T. Guza (1998), Assimilating coastal wave observations in regional swell predictions. Part I: Inverse methods, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 28, 679-691.
36. Özkan Haller, H. T, and S. Brundidge (2007), Equilibrium beach profile concept for Delaware beaches, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 133(2), 147-160, doi:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2007)133:2(147).
37. Pawka, S. S. (1983), Island shadows in wave directional spectra, J. Geophys. Res., 88, 2571-2591.
38. Plant, N. G., R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich (1999), A simple model for interannual sandbar behavior, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C7), 15,755- 15,776.
39. Quartel, S., A. Kroon, and B. G. Ruessink (2008), Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns on a microtidal sandy beach, Mar. Geol, 250, 19-33, doi: 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.11.003.
40. Roelvink, J. A., and M. J. F. Stive (1989), Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach, J. Geophys. Res., 94, 4785-4800.
41. Swart, D. H. (1974), Offshore sediment transport and equilibrium beach profiles, Tech. Rep. Publ. 131, Delft Hydraulics Lab., Delft, Netherlands.
42. Winant, C. D., D. L. Inman, and C. E. Nordstrom (1975), Description of seasonal beach changes using empirical eigenfunctions, J. Geophys. Res., 80, 1979-1986.
43. Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short (1984), Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis, Mar. Geol, 56, 93-118.
44. Wright, L. D., A. D. Short, and M. O. Green (1985), Short-term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: An empirical predictive model, Mar. Geol, 62, 339-364.