Observations of wave energy fluxes and swash motions on a low-sloping, dissipative beach

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 118, Issue 7, 2013, Pages 3651-3669

  Guedes, Rafael M C ^a,b   Bryan, Karin R ^a   Coco, Giovanni ^c,d  

^a UNIVERSITY OF WAIKATO   (New Zealand)

^b A Division of Meteorological Service of New Zealand   (New Zealand)

^c NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF WATER AND ATMOSPHERIC RESEARCH   (New Zealand)

^d ENVIRONMENTAL HYDRAULICS INSTITUTE IH CANTABRIA   (Spain)

Author keywords

infragravity; saturation; swash; video imagery; wave dissipation; wave energy fluxes

Indexed keywords

BEACHES; ELECTRON ENERGY LEVELS; GRAVITY WAVES; SATURATION (MATERIALS COMPOSITION); WATER WAVES;

INFRAGRAVITY; SWASH; VIDEO IMAGERY; WAVE DISSIPATION; WAVE ENERGY FLUX;

WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION;

BEACH; DISSIPATION; ENERGY EFFICIENCY; ENERGY FLUX; FREQUENCY ANALYSIS; NONLINEARITY; OBSERVATIONAL METHOD; SATURATION; VIDEOGRAPHY; WAVE ENERGY;

EID: 84885144397     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1002/jgrc.20267     Document Type: Article

References (57)

1. Aagaard, T., and, J. Holm, (1989), Digitization of wave run-up using video records, J. Coastal Res., 5 (3), 547-551. (Pubitemid 19306299)
2. Battjes, J. A., (1974), Surf similarity, paper presented at the Coastal Engineering Conference, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
3. Battjes, J. A., H. J. Bakkenes, T. T. Janssen, and, A. R. van Dongeren, (2004), Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C02009, doi: 10.1029/2003JC001863.
4. Butt, T., and, P. Russell, (2000), Hydrodynamics and cross-shore sediment transport in the swash-zone of natural beaches: A review, J. Coastal Res., 16 (2), 255-268. (Pubitemid 30343160)
5. Elgar, S., and, R. T. Guza, (1985), Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves, J. Fluid. Mech., 161, 425-448.
6. Elgar, S., T. H. C. Herbers, and, R. T. Guza, (1994), Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 24, 1503-1511.
7. Elgar, S., R. T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, T. H. C. Herbers, and, E. L. Gallagher, (1997), Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach, J. Geophys. Res., 102 (C7), 15,797-15,805, doi: 10.1029/97JC01010.
8. Elgar, S., B. Raubenheimer, and, R. T. Guza, (2005), Quality control of acoustic Doppler velocimeter data in the surfzone, Meas. Sci. Technol., 16, 1889-1893, doi: 10.1088/0957-0233/16/10/002. (Pubitemid 41380620)
9. Gorman, R., K. R. Bryan, and, A. K. Laing, (2003), Wave hindcast for the New Zealand region: Nearshore validation and coastal wave climate, N. Z. J. Mar. Freshwater Res., 37, 567-588. (Pubitemid 38062146)
10. Guedes, R. M. C., K. R. Bryan, G. Coco, and, R. A. Holman, (2011), The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach, J. Geophys. Res., 116, C04008, doi: 10.1029/2010JC006660.
11. Guza, R. T., and, F. Feddersen, (2012), Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup, Geophys. Res. Lett., 39, L11607, doi: 10.1029/2012GL051959.
12. Guza, R. T., and, E. B. Thornton, (1982), Swash oscillations on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 87 (C 1), 483-491, doi: 10.1029/JC087iC01p 00483.
13. Guza, R. T., and, E. B. Thornton, (1985), Observations of surf beat, J. Geophys. Res., 90 (C 2), 3161-3172, doi: 10.1029/JC090iC02p03161.
14. Guza, R. T., E. B. Thornton, and, R. A. Holman, (1984), Swash on steep and shallow beaches, in Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference, edited by, B. L. Edge, pp. 708-723, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
15. Hasselmann, K., W. Munk, and, G. MacDonald, (1963), Bispectra of ocean waves, in Time Series Analysis, edited by, M. Rosenblatt, pp. 125-139, John Wiley, New York.
16. Haubrich, R. A., (1965), Earth noise, 5 to 500 millicycles per second: 1. Spectral stationarity, normality, and nonlinearity, J. Geophys. Res., 70 (6), 1415-1427, doi: 10.1029/JZ070i006p01415.
17. Heath, R., (1976), Broad classification of New Zealand inlets with emphasis on residence times, N. Z. J. Mar. Freshwater Res., 10 (3), 429-444.
18. Henderson, S. M., and, A. J. Bowen, (2002), Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation, J. Geophys. Res., 107 (C 11), 3193, doi: 10.1029/2000JC000498.
19. Henderson, S. M., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, T. H. C. Herbers, and, A. J. Bowen, (2006), Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy, J. Geophys. Res., 111, C12007, doi: 10.1029/2006JC003539.
20. Herbers, T. H. C., S. Elgar, and, R. T. Guza, (1994), Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf: I. Forced waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 24, 917-927. (Pubitemid 24431174)
21. Holland, K. T., B. Raubenheimer, R. T. Guza, and, R. A. Holman, (1995), Runup kinematics on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 100 (C3), 4985-4993, doi: 10.1029/94JC02664.
22. Holland, K. T., R. A. Holman, T. C. Lippmann, J. Stanley, and, N. Plant, (1997), Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies, IEEE J. Oceanic Eng., 22 (1), 81-92.
23. Holman, R. A., (1981), Infragravity energy in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 86, 6442-6450.
24. Holman, R. A., and, A. J. Bowen, (1984), Longshore structure of infragravity wave motions, J. Geophys. Res., 89 (C4), 6446-6452. (Pubitemid 14601229)
25. Holman, R. A., and, R. T. Guza, (1984), Measuring run-up on a natural beach, Coastal Eng., 8, 129-140.
26. Holman, R. A., and, A. H. Sallenger, (1985), Setup and swash on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 90 (C1), 945-953, doi: 10.1029/JC090iC01 p00945.
27. Howd, P. A., J. Oltman-Shay, and, R. A. Holman, (1991), Wave variance partitioning in the trough of a barred beach, J. Geophys. Res., 96 (C7), 12,781-12,795, doi: 10.1029/91JC00434.
28. Huisman, C. E., K. R. Bryan, G. Coco, and, B. G. Ruessink, (2011), The use of video imagery to analyse groundwater and shoreline dynamics on a dissipative beach, Cont. Shelf Res., 31, 1728-1738.
29. Huntley, D. A., R. T. Guza, and, A. J. Bowen, (1977), A universal form for shoreline run-up spectra?, J. Geophys. Res., 82 (18), 2577-2581, doi: 10.1029/JC082i018p02577.
30. Iribarren, C. R., and, C. Nogales, (1949), Protection des Ports, paper presented at 17th International Navigation Congress, Permanent International Association of Navigation Congresses, Lisbon.
31. Janssen, T. T., J. A. Battjes, and, A. R. van Dongeren, (2003), Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom, J. Geophys. Res., 108 (C 8), 3252, doi: 10.1029/2002JC001515.
32. Kim, Y., and, E. Powers, (1979), Digital bispectral analysis and its application to nonlinear wave interactions, IEEE Trans. Plasma Sci., 7, 120-131. (Pubitemid 9469541)
33. Lippmann, T. C., R. A. Holman, and, A. J. Bowen, (1997), Generation of edge waves in shallow water, J. Geophys. Res., 102 (C4), 8663-8679. (Pubitemid 27445073)
34. Lippmann, T. C., T. H. C. Herbers, and, E. B. Thornton, (1999), Gravity and shear wave contributions to nearshore infragravity motions, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 29, 231-239.
35. List, J. H., (1991), Wave groupiness variations in the nearshore, Coastal Eng., 15, 475-496.
36. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and, R. W. Stewart, (1962), Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to surfbeats, J. Fluid Mech., 13, 481-504.
37. Mase, H., (1995), Frequency down-shift of swash oscillations compared to incident waves, J. Hydraul. Res., 33 (3), 397-411.
38. Masselink, G., (1995), Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone, Cont. Shelf Res., 15 (13), 1525-1547. (Pubitemid 26462753)
39. Masselink, G., (1998), Field investigation of wave propagation over a bar and the consequent generation of secondary waves, Coastal Eng., 33, 1-9. (Pubitemid 128384066)
40. Miche, M., (1951). Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés a l'action de la houle, Ann. Ponts Chaussees, 121, 285-319.
41. Okihiro, M., and, R. T. Guza, (1995), Infragravity energy modulation by tides, J. Geophys. Res., 100 (C8), 16,143-16,148, doi: 10.1029/95JC01545.
42. Raubenheimer, B., and, R. T. Guza, (1996), Observations and predictions of run-up, J. Geophys. Res., 101 (C11), 25,575-25,587, doi: 10.1029/96JC02432.
43. Raubenheimer, B., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, and, N. Kobayashi, (1995), Swash on a gently sloping beach, J. Geophys. Res., 100 (C5), 8751-8760, doi: 10.1029/95JC00232.
44. Raubenheimer, B., R. T. Guza, and, S. Elgar, (1996), Wave transformation across the inner surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 101, 25,589-25,597, doi: 10.1029/96JC02433.
45. Ruessink, B. G., (1998a), Bound and free infragravity waves in the nearshore zone under breaking and nonbreaking conditions, J. Geophys. Res., 103 (C6), 12,795-12,805, doi: 10.1029/98JC00893.
46. Ruessink, B. G., (1998b), The temporal and spatial variability of infragravity energy in a barred nearshore zone, Cont. Shelf Res., 18, 585-605. (Pubitemid 28324553)
47. Ruessink, B. G., M. G. Kleinhans, and, P. G. L. van den Beukel, (1998), Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions, J. Geophys. Res., 103 (C 2), 3111-3118, doi: 10.1029/97JC02791.
48. Ruggiero, P., R. A. Holman, and, R. A. Beach, (2004), Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025, doi: 10.1029/2003JC002160.
49. Sénéchal, N., P. Bonneton, and, H. Dupuis, (2002), Field experiment on secondary wave generation on a barred beach and the consequent evolution of energy dissipation on the beach face, Coastal Eng., 46, 233-247.
50. Sénéchal, N., G. Coco, K. R. Bryan, and, R. A. Holman, (2011), Wave runup during extreme storm conditions, J. Geophys. Res., 116, C07032, doi: 10.1029/2010JC006819.
51. Sheremet, A., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, and, T. H. C. Herbers, (2002), Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components, J. Geophys. Res., 107 (C8), 3095, doi: 10.1029/2001JC000970.
52. Sherwood, A. M., and, C. S. Nelson, (1979), Surficial sediments of Raglan Harbour, N. Z. J. Mar. Freshwater Res., 13 (4), 475-496.
53. Stockdon, H. F., R. A. Holman, P. A. Howd, and, A. H. Sallenger, (2006), Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup, Coastal Eng., 53, 573-588, doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005.
54. Symonds, G., D. A. Huntley, and, A. J. Bowen, (1982), Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, J. Geophys. Res., 87 (C1), 492-498, doi: 10.1029/JC087iC01p00492. (Pubitemid 12539449)
55. Thomson, J., S. Elgar, B. Raubenheimer, T. H. C. Herbers, and, R. T. Guza, (2006), Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surf zone, Geophys. Res. Lett., 33, L05601, doi: 10.1029/2005GL025514.
56. Thornton, E. B., and, R. T. Guza, (1983), Transformation of wave height distribution, J. Geophys. Res., 88 (C10), 5925-5938, doi: 10.1029/JC088iC1 0p05925.
57. van Dongeren, A., J. Battjes, T. Janssen, J. van Noorloos, K. Steenhauer, G. Steenbergen, and, A. Reniers, (2007), Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C02011, doi: 10.1029/2006JC003701.