Wave runup during extreme storm conditions

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 116, Issue 7, 2011, Pages

  Senechal, Nadia ^a   Coco, Giovanni ^b,c   Bryan, Karin R ^d   Holman, Rob A ^e  

^a UNIVERSITÉ BORDEAUX 1   (France)

^b NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF WATER AND ATMOSPHERIC RESEARCH   (New Zealand)

^c ENVIRONMENTAL HYDRAULICS INSTITUTE IH CANTABRIA   (Spain)

^d UNIVERSITY OF WAIKATO   (New Zealand)

^e OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BEACHES; PRODUCTION PLATFORMS; SPECTROSCOPY;

DATA SUPPORT; ENERGY SPECTRA; LOW FREQUENCY; OFFSHORE WAVES; PEAK PERIOD; SATURATED CONDITIONS; SURF ZONES; SWASH ZONE; WAVE RUNUP;

STORMS;

BEACH PROFILE; DISSIPATION; FREQUENCY ANALYSIS; SLOPE; STORM SURGE; SURF ZONE; SWELL; VIDEOGRAPHY; WAVE HEIGHT; WAVE RUNUP;

EID: 79961177287     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2010JC006819     Document Type: Article

References (43)

1. Almar, R., B. Castelle, B. G. Ruessink, N. Senechal, P. Bonneton, and V. Marieu (2009), High-frequency video observation of two nearby double barred beaches under high-energy wave forcing, J. Coastal Res., SI56, 1706-1710.
2. Almar, R., B. Castelle, B. G. Ruessink, N. Senechal, P. Bonneton, and V. Marieu (2010), Two-and three-dimensional double-sandbar system behaviour under intense wave forcing and a meso-macro tidal range, Cont. Shelf Res., 30, 781-792, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2010.02.001.
3. Battjes, J. A. (1974), Surf similarity, paper presented at 14th Coastal Engineering Conference, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Copenhagen.
4. Battjes, J. A., H. J. Bakkenes, T. T. Janssen, and A. R. Van Dongeren (2004), Shoaling of subharmonic gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C02009, doi:10.1029/2003JC001863.
5. Butel, R., H. Dupuis, P. Bonneton, (2002), Spatial variability of wave conditions on the French Aquitanian coast using in-situ data, J. Coastal Res., SI36, 96-108.
6. Capo, S., J. P. Parisot, S. Bujan, and N. Senechal (2009), Short time morphodynamic response of the Truc Vert beach to storm conditions, J. Coastal Res., SI56, 1741-1745.
7. Carrier, G. G., and H. P. Greenspan (1958), Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach, J. Fluid Mech., 4, 97-109, doi:10.1017/ S0022112058000331.
8. Castelle, B., P. Bonneton, H. Dupuis, and N. Sénéchal (2007), Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian coast, Mar. Geol., 254, 216-223.
9. Coco, G., B. T. Werner, T. Burnet, and S. Elgar (2004), The role of tides in beach cusp formation, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C04011, doi:10.1029/ 2003JC002154.
10. Elfrink, B., and T. Baldock (2002), Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: A review and perspectives, Coastal Eng., 45, 149-167, doi:10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00032-7. (Pubitemid 34689847)
11. Gallagher, E. L., J. MacMahan, A. J. H. M. Reniers, J. Brown, and E. B. Thornton (2011), Grain size variability on a rip-channeled beach, Mar. Geol., in press.
12. Guza, R. T., and E. B. Thornton (1982), Swash oscillations on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 87, 483-491, doi:10.1029/JC087iC01p00483.
13. Guza, R. T., E. B. Thornton, and R. A. Holman (1984), Swash on steep and shallow beaches, paper presented at 19th Coastal Engineering Conference, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Houston, Tex.
14. Henderson, S. M., and A. J. Bowen (2002), Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation, J. Geophys. Res., 107(C11), 3193, doi:10.1029/ 2000JC000498.
15. Henderson, S. M., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, T. H. C. Herbers, and A. J. Bowen (2006), Nonlinear generation and loss of infragravity wave energy, J. Geophys. Res., 111, C12007, doi:10.1029/2006JC003539. (Pubitemid 47064531)
16. Herbers, T. H. C., S. Elgar, R. T. Guza, and W. C. O'Reilly (1995), Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf, II, free waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 25, 1063-1079, doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1995) 025<1063: IFHMOT>2.0.CO;2.
17. Holland, K. T. (1995), Foreshore dynamics: Swash motions and topographic interactions on natural beaches, Ph.D. thesis, Oreg. State Univ., Corvallis, Oreg.
18. Holland, K. T., and R. A. Holman (1999), Wavenumber-frequency structure of infragravity swash motions, J. Geophys. Res., 104, 13,479-13,488, doi:10.1029/1999JC900075.
19. Holland, K. T., R. A. Holman, T. C. Lippmann, J. Stanley, and N. Plant (1997), Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies, IEEE J. Oceanic Eng., 22, 81-92, doi:10.1109/48.557542.
20. Holman, R. A. (1986), Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach, Coastal Eng., 9, 527-544, doi:10.1016/0378-3839(86)90002-5.
21. Holman, R. A., and A. Bowen (1984), Longshore structure of infragravity wave motions, J. Geophys. Res., 89, 6446-6452, doi:10.1029/ JC089iC04p06446. (Pubitemid 14601229)
22. Holman, R. A., and A. H. Sallenger (1985), Setup and swash on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 90, 945-953, doi:10.1029/JC090iC01p00945.
23. Lorin, J., and J.Viguier (1987), Hydrosedimentary conditions and present evolution of Aquitaine coast, Bull. Inst. Geol. Bassin Aquitaine, 41, 95-108.
24. Masselink, G., and M. G. Hughes (1998), Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone, Cont. Shelf Res., 18, 1179-1199, doi:10.1016/S0278-4343(98)00027-2. (Pubitemid 28490275)
25. Masselink, G., and A. D. Short (1993), The effect of tide range on beach morphodynamics and morphology: A conceptual beach model, J. Coastal Res., 9, 785-800.
26. Meyer, R. E., and A. D. Taylor (1972), Run-up on beaches, in Wave on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, edited by R. E. Meyer, pp. 357-411, Academic, San Diego, Calif.
27. Miche, R. (1951), Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action de la houle, Ann. Ponts Chaussees, 121, 285-319.
28. Parisot, J. P., et al. (2009), Evolution of a multi-barred sandy beach in presence of very energetic events, J. Coastal Res., SI56, 1786-1790.
29. Puleo, J. A., R. A. Beach, R. A. Holman, and J. S. Allen (2000), Swash zone sediment suspension and transport and the importance of boregenerated turbulence, J. Geophys. Res., 105, 17,021-17,044, doi:10.1029/ 2000JC900024.
30. Raubenheimer, B., and R. T. Guza (1996), Observations and predictions of run-up, J. Geophys. Res., 101, 25,575-25,587, doi:10.1029/96JC02432.
31. Raubenheimer, B., R. T. Guza, S. Elgar, and N. Kobayashi (1995), Swash on a gently sloping beach, J. Geophys. Res., 100, 8751-8760, doi:10.1029/ 95JC00232.
32. Ruessink, B. G., M. G. Kleinhans, and P. G. L. Van den Beukel (1998), Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions, J. Geophys. Res., 103, 3111-3118, doi:10.1029/97JC02791.
33. Ruggiero, P., P. D. Komar, J. J. Marra, W. G. McDougal, and R. A. Beach (2001), Wave runup, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches, J. Coastal Res., 17, 407-419. (Pubitemid 32540535)
34. Ruggiero, P., R. A. Holman, and R. A. Beach (2004), Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025, doi:10.1029/2003JC002160. (Pubitemid 39174575)
35. Senechal, N., T. Gouriou, B. Castelle, J. P. Parisot, S. Capo, S. Bujan, and H. Howa (2009), Morphodynamic response of a meso-to macro-tidal intermediate beach based on a long-term data set, Geomorphology, 107, 263-274, doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2008.12.016.
36. Senechal, N., et al. (2011), The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: Presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions, Ocean Dyn., in press.
37. Stockdon, H. F., R. A. Holman, P. A. Howd, and A. H. Sallenger Jr. (2006), Empirical parameterization of setup, swash and runup, Coastal Eng., 53, 573-588, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005.
38. Stoker, J. J. (1947), Surface waves in water of variable depth, Q. Appl. Math., 5, 1-54.
39. Thomson, J., S. Elgar, B. Raubenheimer, T. H. C. Herbers, and R. T. Guza (2006), Tidal modulation of infragravity waves via nonlinear energy losses in the surf zone, Geophys. Res. Lett., 33, L05601, doi:10.1029/ 2005GL025514.
40. van der Meer, J. W., and J. C. Stam (1992), Wave runup on smooth and rock slopes of coastal structures, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 118, 534-550, doi:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:5(534).
41. van Dongeren, A. R., J. Van Noorloos, K. Steenhauer, J. A. Battjes, T. T. Janssen, and A. Reniers (2004), Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of subharmonic gravity waves, in Coastal Engineering 2004: Proceedings of the 29th International Conference, edited by J. McKee Smith, pp. 1225-1237, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
42. van Dongeren, A. R., J. Battjes, T. T. Janssen, J. Van Noorloos,K. Steenhauer, G. Steenbergen, and A. Reniers (2007), Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C02011, doi:10.1029/ 2006JC003701.
43. Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short (1984), Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56, 93-118, doi:10.1016/ 0025-3227(84)90008-2. (Pubitemid 14584448)