Generation of edge waves in shallow water

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 102, Issue C4, 1997, Pages 8663-8679

  Lippmann, T C ^a   Holman, R A ^b   Bowen, A J ^c  

^a UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA   (United States)

^b OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^c DALHOUSIE UNIVERSITY   (Canada)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

BEACHES; COASTS; SHALLOW WATER EQUATIONS; WAVES;

EDGE WAVES; NEARSHORE DYNAMICS; SHALLOW WATER EQUATIONS; WAVE GENERATION;

EID: 0030747099     PISSN: 21699275     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/96JC03722     Document Type: Article

References (38)

1. Biesel, F., Equations generales au second ordre de la houle irreguliere, Houille Blanche, 7, 372-376, 1952.
2. Bowen, A. J., and R. T. Guza, Edge waves and surf beat, J. Geophys. Res., 83(C4), 1913-1920, 1978.
3. Eckart, C., Surface waves on water of variable depth, Wave Rep. 100, Scripps Inst, of Oceanogr., Univ. of Calif., La Jolla, 1951.
4. Foda, M. A., and C. C. Mei, Nonlinear excitation of long-trapped waves by a group of short swells, J. Fluid Mech., Ill, 319-345, 1981.
5. Gallagher, B., Generation of surf beat by nonlinear wave interactions, J. Fluid Mech., 49, 1-20, 1971.
6. Guza, R. T and A. J. Bowen, The resonant instabilities of long waves obliquely incident on a beach, J. Geophys. Res., 80(33), 4529-4534, 1975.
7. Guza, R. T., and E. B. Thornton, Swash oscillations on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 87(C1), 483-491, 1982.
8. Guza, R. T., and E. B. Thornton, Observations of surf beat, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C2), 3161-3172, 1985.
9. Hasselmann, K.., On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, 1, General theory, J. Fluid Mech., 12, 481-500, 1962.
10. Herbers, T. H. C, S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza, Generation and propagation of infragravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 100(C12), 24, 863-24, 872, 1995a.
11. Herbers, T. H. C S. Elgar, R. T. Guza, and W. C. O'Reilly, Infragravity-frequency (0.005-0.05 Hz) motions on the shelf, II, Free waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr, 25(6), 1063-1079, 1995b.
12. Holman, R. A., Infragravity energy in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 86(C7), 6442-6450, 1981.
13. Holman, R. A., and A. H. SaUenger, Setup and swash on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C1), 945-953, 1985.
14. Howd, P. A., J. M. Oltman-Shay, and R. A. Holman, Wave variance partitioning in the trough of a barred beach, J. Geophys. Res., 96(C7), 12, 781-12, 795, 1991.
15. Huntley, D. A., Long-period waves on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 87(36), 6441-6449, 1976.
16. Huntley, D. A., R. T. Guza, and E. B. Thornton, Field observations of surf beat, 1, Progressive edge waves, J. Geophys. Res., 86(C7), . 6451-6466, 1981.
17. Komar, P. D., Beach-slope dependence of longshore currents, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Div. Am. Soc. Civ. Eng., 105(WW4), 460-464, 1979.
18. List, J. H., A model for the generation of two-dimensional surf beat, J. Geophys. Res., 97(C7), 5623-5635, 1992.
19. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 2, J. Geophys. Res., 75(33), 6790-6801, 1970.
20. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart, Radiation stresses and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to 'surf beats' J. Fluid Mech., 13, 481-504, 1962.
21. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart, Radiation stresses in water waves: A physical discussion, with applications. Deep Sea Res., 11, 529-562, 1964.
22. Mei, C. C., and C. Benmoussa, Long waves induced by short-wave groups over an uneven bottom, J. Fluid Mech., 139, 219-235, 1984.
23. Munk, W. H Surf beats, Eos Trans. AGU, 30(6), 849-854, 1949.
24. Okihuro, M., R. T. Guza, and R. J. Seymour, Bound infragravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 97(C1), 11, 453-11, 469, 1992.
25. Olbers, D. J., and K. Herterich, The spectral energy transfer from surface waves to internal waves, J. Fluid Mech., 92, 349-379, 1979.
26. Oltman-Shay, J. M., and R. T. Guza, Infragravity edge wave observations on two California beaches, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 17(5), 644-663, 1987.
27. Phillips, O. M., The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean, 2nd ed., 336 pp., Cambridge Univ. Press., New York, 1977.
28. Sallenger, A. H., and R. A. Holman, Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C6), 11, 939-11, 944, 1985.
29. Sallenger, A. H., and R. A. Holman, Infragravity waves over a natural barred profile, J. Geophys. Res., 92(C9), 9531-9540, 1987.
30. Schaffer, H. A., Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups, J. Fluid Mech., 247, 551-588, 1993.
31. Schaffer, H. A., Edge waves forced by short-wave groups, J. Fluid Mech., 259, 125-148, 1994.
32. Schaffer, H. A., and I. Svendsen, Surf beat generation on a mild-slope beach, in Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 1058-1072, Am. Soc. Civ. Eng., New York, 1988.
33. Stoker, J. J., Surface waves in water of variable depth, Q. App. Math., 5(1), 1-54, 1947.
34. Symonds, G., and A. J. Bowen, Interactions of nearshore bars with incoming wave groups, J. Geophys. Res., 89(C2), 1953-1959, 1984.
35. Symonds, G., D. A. Huntley, and A. J. Bowen, Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, J. Geophys. Res., 87(C1), 492-498, 1982.
36. Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza, Energy saturation and phase speeds measured on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 87(C12), 9499-9508, 1982.
37. Tucker, M. J., Surf beats: Sea waves of 1 to 5 minute period, Proc. R. Soc. London A, 202, 565-573, 1950.
38. Watson, K. M., B. J. West, and B. I. Cohen, Coupling of surface and internal gravity waves: A mode coupling model, J. Fluid Mech., 77, 105-208, 1976.