Hair colors: Classification, chemistry and a review of chromatographic and electrophoretic methods for analysis

Analytical Letters

Volumn 41, Issue 13, 2008, Pages 2291-2321

  Ghosh, Partha ^a,b   Sinha, Arun K ^a,b  

^a CSIR INSTITUTE OF HIMALAYAN BIORESOURCE TECHNOLOGY   (India)

^b NATIONAL CHEMICAL LABORATORY   (India)

Author keywords

Analysis; Chemistry; Chromatographic and electrophoretic methods; Classification; Hair colors

Indexed keywords

EID: 55749101597     PISSN: 00032719     EISSN: 1532236X     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1080/00032710802352605     Document Type: Short Survey

References (89)

1. Andrew, A.S., Schned, A.R., Heany, J.A., and Karagas, M.R. 2004. Bladder cancer risk and personal hair dye use. Int. J. cancer, 109: 581-586.
2. Aburjai, T. and Natsheh, F.M. 2003. Plants used in cosmetics. Phytother. Res., 17: 987-1000.
3. Ames, B.N., Kammen, H.O., and Yamasaki, E. 1975. Hair dyes are mutagenic: Identification of a variety of mutagenic ingredients. Proc. Natl. Acad. Science., 72: 2423-2427.
4. Ali, R. and Sayeed, S.A. 1997. Lawson: phenolic of henna and its potential use in protein-rich foods and staining. ACS Symp. Series, 662: 223-244.
5. Andrisano, V., Gotti, R., Di Pietra, A.M., and Cavrini, V. 1994. Analysis of oxidation hair dyes in permanent hair colourants. J. Lid. Chromatogr., 17: 2919-2937.
6. Akyuz, M. and Ata, S. 2008. Determination of aromatic amines in hair dye and henna samples by ion-pair extraction and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. J. Pharmaceut. Biomed. Anal., 47: 68-80.
7. Andrisano, V., Gotti, R., Roveri, P., and Cavrini, V. 1997. Analysis of semipermanent hair dyes by HPLC with on-line post-column photochemical derivatisation. Chromatographia, 44: 431-437.
8. Al-Tufail, M., Mahier, T., Tate, J., and Haq, A. 1996. Rapid identification of phenylenediamines in traditional hair dyes by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Toxicol. Lett. 88: 13.
9. Brown, L.M., Everett, G.D., Burmeister, L.F., and Blair, A. 1992. Hair dye use and multiple myeloma in white men. Am. J. Public Health, 82: 1673-1674.
10. Burch, J.D., Craib, K.J., and Choi, B.C. 1987. An exploratory casecontrol study of brain tumors in adults. J. Natl. Cancer Inst., 78: 601-609.
11. Bolduc, C. and Shapiro, J. 2001. Hair care products: waving, straightening, conditioning and coloring. Clin. Dermatol., 19: 431-436.
12. Brown, K.C. 1977. Hair colouring. In Hair and Hair Care Johnson, D.H. (ed.), Marcel Dekker: New York, 191-215.
13. Brown, K.C. and Corbett, J.F. 1979. The role of meta difunctional benzene derivatives in oxidative hair dyeing. II. Reactions with p-aminophenols. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 30: 191-211.
14. Carle, R. and Gomma, K. 1992. Chamomile: A pharmacological and clinical profile. Drugs Today, 28: 559-565.
15. Chowdhary, G. 1980. Gas liquid chromatographic determination of toxic diamines in permanent hair dyes. J. Chromatogr. 193: 277-284.
16. Cook, L.S., Malone, K.E., Daling, J.R., Voigt, L.F., and Weiss, N.S. 1999. Hair product use and the risk of breast cancer in young women. Cancer Cause Control, 10: 551-559.
17. Corbett, J.F. 1968. Recent developments in the synthesis of hair dyes. J. Soc. Dyers Colourist, 84: 556-557.
18. Corbett, J.F. 1973. The role of metadifunctional benzene derivatives in oxidative hair dyeing. Reaction with p-diamines, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 24: 103-134.
19. Corbette, J.F. 1984. Chemistry of hair colorant processes-science as an aid to formulation and development. J. Soc. Cosmet. Sci., 35: 297-310.
20. Corbett, J.F., Sharma, R.K., and Dressler, W.E. 1999. Cosmetic toxicology. In Toxicology; Marquart, H., Schafer, S.G., McClellan, R., and Welsch, F. (eds), Academic Press: San Diego, 899-910.
21. D'Amelio, F.S. (ed.). 1999. Botanicals a Phytocosmetic Desk Reference, Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 225.
22. Di Gioia, M.L., Leggio, A., Le Pera, A., Liguori, A., Napoli, A., Perri, F., Siciliano, C. 2005. Determination by gas Chromatography/mass spectrometry of p-phenylenediamine in hair dyes after conversion to an imine derivative. J. Chromatogr. A, 1066: 143-148.
23. Draelos, Z.K. 1991. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol. Clin., 9: 19-27.
24. Dowle, C.J. and Malyan, A.P. 1990. Separation of the ortho, meta, and para isomers of aminophenol by high performance liquid chromatography. Analyst, 115: 105-107.
25. Dweck, A.C. 2002. Natural ingredients for colouring and styling. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 24: 287-302.
26. Eggenreich, K., Zach, E., Bech, H., and Wintersteiger, R. 2004. Determination of 4-amino-m-cresol and 5-amino-o-cresol and metabolites in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) by high-performance liquid chromatography with DAD and MS detection. J. Biochem. Biophys. Methods, 61: 35-46.
27. FDA/Center for Food Safety & Applied Nutrition Hypertext updated by dms/ear June 14, 2006. www.cfsan.fda.gov
28. Facino, R.M., Carini, M., Aldini, G., Marinello, C., Traldi, P., and Seraglia, R. 1997. Analysis of cosmetic products by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry: when a combined approach is successful. Rap. Commun. Mass Spectromet., 11: 1329-1334.
29. Fanali, S. 1989. Host-guest complexation in capillary isotachophoresis. II. Determination of aminophenol and diaminobenzene isomers in permanent hair colorants by using capillary isotachophoresis. J. Chromatogr., 470: 123-129.
30. Gago-Dominguez, M., Castelao, J.E., and Yuan, J.M. 2001. Use of permanent hair dyes and bladder-cancer risk. Int. J. Cancer, 91: 575-579.
31. Gago-Dominguez, M., Bell, D.A., and Watson, M.A. 2003. Permanent hair dyes and bladder cancer: risk modification by cytochrome P4501A2 and N-acetyltransferases 1 and 2. Carcinogenesis, 24: 483-489.
32. Gray, J. 1997. Cosmetic hair treatments. In The World of Hair, Gray, J. (ed.), London: Macmillan, 79-108.
33. Goldenberg, R. 1968. Effect of base components on the properties of oxidation hair dyes. J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 19: 423-445.
34. Garcia, O.J.C., Terron, M., Bellido, J. 1997. Contact allergy to henna. Int. Arch. Allergy Imm., 114: 298-299.
35. Ganesan, R. 2003. Identification, distribution, and conservation of Phyllanthus indofischeri, another source of Indian gooseberry. Curr. Sci., 84: 1515-1518.
36. Gennaro, M.C., Bertolo, P.L., Marengo, E. 1990. Determination of aromatic amines at trace levels by ion interaction reagent reversed-phase high performance liquid chromatography. J. Chromatogr. A, 518: 149-156.
37. Gorlewska-Roberts, K., Green, B., Fares, M., Ambrosone, C.B., and Kadlubar, F.F. 2002. Carcinogen-DNA adducts in human breast epithelial cells. Proc. Am. Assoc. Cancer Res., 43: 1018-1019.
38. Heineman, E.F., Ward, M.H., and McComb, R.D. 2005. Hair dyes and risk of glioma among Nebraska women. Cancer Cause Control, 16: 857-864.
39. Harrison, S. and Sinclair, R. 2004. Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2: 180-185.
40. Kuss, G. and Hoehn, L. 1960. Color reactions of oxidation dye intermediates. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 12: 146-154.
41. Koh, D., Tan, C., Ng, S.K., Tan, B.T., Leow, Y.H., and Goh, CL. 2000. Screening for p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair-care products by thin layer chromatography (TLC). Contact Dermatitis, 43: 182-183.
42. Kang, I.-J. and Lee, M.H. 2006. Quantification of para-phenylenediamine and heavy metals in henna dye. Contact Dermatitis, 655: 26-29.
43. Kirkland, D.J. 2005. Testing strategies in mutagenicity and genetic toxicology: An appraisal of the guidelines of the European scientific committee for cosmetics and non food products for the evaluation of hair dyes. Mutat. Res., 588: 88-105.
44. Kirkland, D.J. and Marzin, D. 2003. An assessment of the genotoxicity of 2-hydroxy-1,4-napthoquinone, the natural dye ingredient of henna. Mutat. Res., 537: 183-199.
45. Lockwood, G.B. 2001. Techniques for gas chromatography of volatile terpenoids from a range of matrices. J Chromatogr. A, 936: 23-31.
46. Li, S.F.Y. 1992. Capillary Electrophoresis Principles, Practices and Applications. Amsterdam: Elsevier.
47. Lin, C.-E., Chen, Y.-T., and Wang, T.-Z. 1999. Separation of benzenediamines, benzenediols and aminophenols in oxidative hair dyes by micellar electrokinetic chromatography cationic surfactants. J. Chromatogr. A, 837: 241-252.
48. Mariani, E., Neuhoff, C., and Villa, C. 1997. Application of high-performance liquid chromatography in the analysis of direct dyes in semipermanent hair colouring cosmetics. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19: 51-63.
49. Mariani, E., Bargagna, A., Longobard, M., and Dorato, S. 1994. Application of TLC and HPTLC in the analysis of semipermanent hair dyes. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 16: 17-27.
50. Masukawa, Y. 2006. Separation and determination of basic dyes formulated in hair care products by capillary electrophoresis. J. Chromatogr. A, 1108: 140-144.
51. Monnais, C. 1995. Haarfarbä nderungsmittel. In Kosmetik - Entwickung, Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel; 2nd Ed. Umbach. Verlag, W. (ed.), Stuttgart, Germany: Georg Thieme, 287-307.
52. Narita, M., Murakami, K., and Kauffmann, J.-M. 2007. Determination of dye precursors in hair coloring products by liquid chromatography with electrochemical detection. Anal. Chim. Acta, 588: 316-320.
53. Nagata, C., Shimizu, H., Hirashima, K., Kakishita, E., Fujimura, K., Niho, Y., Karasawa, M., Oguma, S., Yoshiday, Y., and Mizoguchi, H. 1999. Hair dye use and occupational exposure to organic solvents as risk factors for myelodysplastic syndrome. Leukemia Res., 23: 57-62.
54. Nour, S.A., Abd Elhady, S.E., and Ghourab, M. 1993. A natural colouring agent from Hibiscus sabdarifa. Bull. Fac. Pharm., 31: 387-92.
55. Nohynek, G.J., Fautz, R., Kieffer, F.B., and Toutain, H. 2004. Toxicity and human health risk of hair dyes. Food Chem. Toxicol., 42: 517-543.
56. Oleszek, W.A. 2002. Chromatographic determination of plant saponins. J. Chromatogr. A, 967: 147-162.
57. Petro-Nustas, W., Norton, M.E., and al-Masarweh, I. 2002. Risk factors for breast cancer in Jordanian women. J. Nurs. Scholarship, 34: 19-25.
58. Pieroni, A., Quave, C.L., Villanelli, M.L., Mangino, P., Sabbatini, G., Santini, L., Boccetti, T., Profili, M., Ciccioli, T., Rampa, L.G., Antonini, G., Girolamini, C., Cecchi, M., and Tomasi, M. 2004. Ethnopharmacognostic survey on the natural ingredients usedin folk cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and remedies for healing skin diseases in the inland marches, Central-Eastern Italy. J. Ethnopharmacol., 91: 331-344.
59. Penner, N.A. and Nesterenko, P.N. 2000. Simultaneous determination of dihydroxybenzenes, aminophenols and phenylenediamines in hair dyes by highperformance liquid chromatography on hypercross-linked polystyrene. Analyst, 125: 1249-1254.
60. Rieger, M.M. 2000. Harry's Cosmetology. 8th Ed. New York: Chemical Publishing Co.
61. Roy, Genders. 1985. Natural Beauty-the practical guide to wild flower cosmetics. London: Webb and Bower, ISBN No. 0-86350-228-8.
62. Rastogi, S.C. 2001. A method for the analysis of intermediates of oxidative hair dyes in cosmetic products. J. Sep. Sci., 24: 173-178.
63. Rojanapo, W., Kupradinun, P., and Tepsuwan, A. 1986. Carcinogenicity of an oxidation product of p-phenylenediamine. Carcinogenesis, 7: 1997-1902.
64. Sosted, H., Rastogi, S.C., Anderssen, K.E., Johansen, J.D., and Menne, T. 2004. Hair dye contact allergy: quantitative exposure assessment of selected products and clinical cases. Contact Dermatitis, 50: 344-348.
65. Su, Q., Roley, K.G., and Balazs, N.D.H. 2002. Carotenoids: separation methods applicable to biological samples. J. Chromatogr. B, 781: 393-418.
66. Searle, C.E. and Jones, E.L. 1977. Effects of repeated applications of two semipermanent hair dyes to the skin of A and DBAf mice. Br. J. Cancer, 36: 467-478.
67. Smyth, R.B. and McKeown, G.G. 1964. The analysis of arylamines and phenols in oxidation-type hair dyes by paper chromatography. J. Chromatogr. A, 16: 454.
68. Srivastava, S.P., Bhusan, R., and Chauhan, R.S. 1985. TLC separation of some closely related synthetic dyes impregnated silica gel layers. J. Liquid Chromatogr., 8: 1255-1263.
69. Sinha, A.K., Verma, S.C., and Sharma, U.K. 2007. Development and validation of an RP-HPLC method for quantitative determination of vanillin and related phenolic compounds in Vanilla planifolia. J. Sep. Sci., 30: 15-20.
70. Sharma, A., Verma, S.C., Saxena, N., Chadda, N., Singh, N.P., and Sinha, A.K. 2006. Microwave and ultrasound assisted extraction of vanillin and its quantification by HPLC in Vanilla planifolia. J. Sep. Sci., 29: 613-619.
71. Scarpi, C., Ninci, F., Centini, M., and Anselmi, C. 1998. High-performance liquid chromatography determination of direct and temporary dyes in natural hair colourings. J. Chromatogr. A, 796: 319-325.
72. Shao, B.H., Xu, X.Z., Yan, J.W., and Fu, X. 2001. Quantitative determination of commercial oxidation hair dyes by reversed-phase HPLC. J. Liquid Chromatogr. and related technol., 24: 241-249.
73. Sainthorant, C., Morin, Ph., Dreux, M., Baudry, A., and Goetz, N. 1995. Separation of phenylenediamine, phenol and aminophenol derivatives by micellar electrokinetic chromatography, comparison of the role of anionic and cationic surfactants. J. Chromatogr. A, 717: 167-179.
74. Tucker, H. 1967. Hair coloring with oxidation dye intermediates. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 18: 609-628.
75. Tonnesen, H.H. 1992. Chemistry of curcumin and Curcuminoids. ACS symposium series 506 (Phenolic Compound Food Their Effect in Health I), 143-153.
76. Turesky, R.J., Freeman, J.P., Holland, R.D., Nestorick, D.M., Miller, D.W., Ratnasinghe, D.L., and Kadlubar, F.F. 2003. Identification of Aminobiphenyl derivatives in commercial hair dyes. Chem. Res. Toxicol., 16: 1162-1173.
77. Tokuda, H., Kimura, Y., and Takano, S. 1986. Determination of dye intermediates in oxidative hair dyes by fused-silica capillary gas chromatography. J. Chromatogr., 367: 345-356.
78. Terabe, S., Otsuka, K., and Ando, T. 1985. Electrokinetic chromatography with micellar solution and open tubular capillary. Anal. Chem., 57: 834-841.
79. Verma, S.C., Singh, N.P., and Sinha, A.K. 2005. Determination and locational variations in the quantity of hydroxyanthraquinones and their glycosides in rhizomes of Rheum emodi using high-performance liquid chromatography. J. Chromatogr. A, 1097: 59-65.
80. Wolfram, L.J. 2001. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology; Barel, A.O., Paye, M., and Maibach, H.I. eds. New York: Marcel Dekker, 58.
81. Wojnarowska, F.T. 1991. Hair cosmetics. In Diseases of the Hair and Scalp, 2nd ed.; Rook, A., and Dawber, R. (eds.), Oxford: Blackwell Science, 465-479.
82. Wis-Surel, G.M. 1999. Some challenges in modern hair colour formulations. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 21: 327-340.
83. Wang, L.-H. and Kuo, Y.-P. 1999. Simultaneous quantitative determination of resorcinol and 1-Naphthol in haircolor products by high-performance liquid chromatography. Chromatographia, 49: 208-211.
84. Wang, S.-P. and Huang, H.-T. 2005. Separation and determination of aminophenols and phenylenediamines by liquid chromatography and micellar electrokinetic capillary chromatography. Anal. Chim. Acta, 534: 207-214.
85. Wu, P.-W., Liaw, M.-I., Cheng, C.-C., Hou, S.-S., and Hou, C. 1997. Determination of oxidant dyes in hair dyes by gas chromatography. J. Food Drug Anal., 5: 99-110.
86. Wang, C.C., Prasain, J.K., and Barnes, S. 2002. Review of the methods used in the determination of phytoestrogens. J. Chromatogr. B, 777: 3-28.
87. Zahm, S.H., Weisenburger, D.D., and Babbitt, P.A. 1992. Use of hair coloring products and the risk of lymphoma, multiple myeloma, and chronic lymphocytic leukemia. Am. J. Public Health, 82: 990-997.
88. Zhang, Y., Holford, T.R., Leaderer, B., Boyle, P., Zahm, S.H., Flynn, S., Tallini, G., Owens, P.H., and Zheng, T. 2004. Hair-coloring product use and risk of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma: a population-based case-control study in Connecticut. Am. J. Epidemiol., 159: 148-154.
89. - chemiluminescence and determination of intermediates in oxidative hair dyes by HPLC with chemiluminescence detection. Talanta, 64: 467-477.