Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 121, Issue 5, 2016, Pages 3121-3140

  Cheriton, Olivia M ^a   Storlazzi, Curt D ^a   Rosenberger, Kurt J ^a  

^a U S GEOLOGICAL SURVEY   (United States)

Author keywords

coral reef; flooding; infragravity waves; overwash; runup; sea level rise

Indexed keywords

ANTHOZOA;

EID: 84969963364     PISSN: 21699275     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1002/2015JC011231     Document Type: Article

References (78)

1. Aagaard, T., and B. Greenwood (1995), Suspended sediment transport and morphological response on a dissipative beach, Cont. Shelf Res., 15, 1061–1086, doi:10.1016/0278-4343(94)00068-X.
2. Aagaard, T., N. Nielsen, and J. Nielsen (1994), Cross-shore structure of infragravity standing wave motion and morphological adjustment: An example from Northern Zealand, Denmark, J. Coastal Res., 10(3), 716–731.
3. Australian Bureau of Meteorology and CSIRO (2014), Climate variability, extremes and change in the Western Tropical Pacific: New science and updated country reports, Pacific-Australia Climate Change Science and Adaptation Planning Program technical report, Aust. Bur. of Meteorol. and Commonw. Sci. and Ind. Res. Organ., Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
4. Battjes, J. A. (1974), Surf similarity, Coast. Eng. Proc., 1(14), 466–480, doi:10.9753/icce.v14.
5. Becker, J. M., M. A. Merrifield, and M. Ford (2014), Water level effects on breaking wave setup for Pacific Island fringing reefs, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 119, 914–932, doi:10.1002/2013JC009373.
6. Beetham, E., P. S. Kench, J. O'Callaghan, and S. Popinet (2015), Wave transformation and shoreline water level on Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 121, 311–326, doi:10.1002/2015JC011246.
7. Brander, R. W., P. S. Kench, and D. Hart (2004), Spatial and temporal variations in wave characteristics across a reef platform, Warraber Island, Torres Strait, Australia, Mar. Geol., 207, 169–184, doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2004.03.014.
8. Chapman, D. C., and G. S. Giese (2009), Seiches, in Elements of Physical Oceanography, edited by J. H. Steele et al., pp. 55–61, Academic, Waltham, Mass.
9. Dean, R. G., and R. A. Dalrymple (1991), Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, vol. 2, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
10. de Bakker, A. T. M., M. F. S. Tissier, and B. G. Ruessink (2014), Shoreline dissipation of infragravity waves, Cont. Shelf Res., 72, 73–82, doi:10.1016/j.csr.2013.11.013.
11. Dobrynin, M., J. Murawsky, and S. Yang (2012), Evolution of the global wind wave climate in CMIP5 experiments, Geophys. Res. Lett., 39, L18606, doi:10.1029/2012GL052843.
12. Fan, Y., I. M. Held, S-J. Lin, and X. L. Wang (2013), Ocean warming effect on surface gravity wave climate change for the end of the Twenty-First Century, J. Clim., 26, 6046–6066, doi:10.1175/JCLI-D-12-00410.1.
13. Ferrario, F., M. W. Beck, C. D. Storlazzi, F. Micheli, C. C. Shepard, and L. Airoldi (2014), The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation, Nat. Commun., 5, 3794, doi:10.1038/ncomms4794.
14. Ford, M. R., J. M. Becker, and M. A. Merrifield (2013), Reef flat wave processes and excavation pits: Observations and implications for Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands, J. Coastal Res., 29(3), 545–554, doi:10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-12-00097.1.
15. Grady, A. E., L. J. Moore, C. D. Storlazzi, E. Elias, and M. A. Reidenbach (2013), The influence of sea level rise and changes in fringing reef morphology on gradients in alongshore sediment transport, Geophys. Res. Lett., 40, 3096–3101, doi:10.1002/grl.50577.
16. Grasso, F., H. Michallet, and E. Barthélemy (2011), Sediment transport associated with morphological beach changes forced by irregular asymmetric, skewed waves, J. Geophys. Res., 116, C03020, doi:10.1029/2010JC006550.
17. Hardy, T. A., and I. R. Young (1996), Field study of wave attenuation on an offshore coral reef, J. Geophys. Res., 101(C6), 14,311–14,326, doi:10.1029/96JC00202.
18. Hemer, M. A., Y. Fan, N. Mori, A. Semedo, and X. L. Wang (2013), Projected changes in wave climate from a multi-model ensemble, Nat. Clim. Change, 3, 471–476, doi:10.1038/nclimate1791.
19. Hench, J. L., J. J. Leichter, and S. G. Monismith (2008), Episodic circulation and exchange in a wave-driven coral reef and lagoon system, Limnol. Oceanogr., 53, 2681–2694, doi:10.4319/lo.2008.53.6.2681.
20. Hoegh-Guldberg, O. (1999), Climate change, coral bleaching and the future of the world's coral reefs, Mar. Freshwater Res., 50, 839–866, doi:10.1071/MF99078.
21. Hoeke, R. K., K. L. McInnes, J. C. Kruger, R. J. McNaught, J. R. Hunter, and S. G. Smithers (2013), Widespread inundation of Pacific islands triggered by distance-source wind-waves, Global Planet. Change, 108, 128–138, doi:10.1016/j.gloplacha.2013.06.006.
22. Holman, R. A., and A. J. Bowen (1984), Longshore structure of infragravity wave motions, J. Geophys. Res., 89(C4), 6446–6452, doi:10.1029/JC089iC04p06446.
23. Hunt, I. A. (1958), Design of Seawalls and Breakwaters, U.S. Lake Surv., U.S. Army Corps of Eng., Detroit, Mich.
24. Jaffe, B. E., and B. M. Richmond (1992), Overwash variability on the shoreline of Guam during Typhoon Russ, in Proceedings of 7th International Coral Reef Symposium, vol. 1, pp. 257–264, University of Guam Press, UOG Station, Guam.
25. Kirby, J. T., and R. A. Dalrymple (1984), Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly-nonlinear waves, Coastal Eng., 8, 219–232, doi:10.1016/0378-3839(84)90002-4.
26. Kopp, R. E., R. M. Horton, C. M. Little, J. X. Mitrovica, M. Oppenheimer, D. J. Rasmussen, B. H. Strauss, and C. Tebaldi (2014), Probabilistic 21st and 22nd century sea-level projections at a global network of tide-gauge sites, Earth's Future, 2, 383–406, doi:10.1002/2014EF000239.
27. Kunkel, C. M., R. W. Hallberg, and M. Oppenheimer (2006), Coral reefs reduce tsunami impact in model simulations, Geophys. Res. Lett., 33, L23612, doi:10.1029/20006GL027892.
28. Landry, B. J., M. J. Hancock, and C. C. Mei (2007), Note on sediment sorting in a sandy bed under standing water waves, Coastal Eng., 54, 694–699, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.02.003.
29. Lee, T. T., and K. P. Black (1978), The energy spectra of surf waves on a coral reef, in Proceedings of 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 588–608, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Hamburg.
30. List, J. H. (1991), Wave groupiness variations in the nearshore, Coastal Eng., 15, 475–496, doi:10.1016/0378-3839(91)90024-B.
31. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart (1960), Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents, J. Fluid Mech., 8, 565–583, doi:10.1017/S0022112060000803.
32. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart (1962), Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ’surf beats‘, J. Fluid Mech., 13, 481–504, doi:10.1017/S0022112062000877.
33. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart (1964), Radiation stresses in water waves: A physical discussion, with applications, Deep Sea Res. Oceanogr. Abstr., 11, 529–562, doi:10.1016/0011-7471(64)90001-4.
34. Lowe, R. J., J. L. Falter, M. D. Bandet, G. Pawlak, M. J. Atkinson, S. G. Monismith, and J. R. Koseff (2005), Spectral wave dissipation over a barrier reef, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C04001, doi:10.1029/2004JC002711.
35. Lugo-Fernandez, A., H. H. Roberts, W. J. Wiseman Jr., and B. L. Carter (1998), Water level and currents of tidal and infragravity periods at Tague Reef, St. Croix (USVI), Coral Reefs, 17, 343–349, doi:10.1007/s003380050137.
36. Ma, G., S.-F. Su, S. Liu, and J.-C. Chu (2014), Numerical simulation of infragravity waves in fringing reefs using a shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model, Ocean Eng., 85, 54–64, doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2014.04.030.
37. Malarkey, J., and A. G. Davies (2012), Free-stream velocity descriptions under waves with skewness and asymmetry, Coastal Eng., 68, 78–95, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.04.009.
38. Maragos, J. E., G. B. K. Baines, and P. J. Beveridge (1973), Tropical cyclone Bebe creates a new land formation on Funafuti Atoll, Science, 181, 1161–1164, doi:10.1126/science.181.4105.1161.
39. Merrifield, M. A. (2011), A shift in western tropical Pacific sea level trends during the 1990s, J. Clim., 24, 4126–4138, doi:10.1175/2011JCLI3932.1.
40. Merrifield, M. A., J. M. Becker, M. Ford, and Y. Yao (2014), Observations and estimates of wave-driven water level extremes at the Marshall Islands, Geophys. Res. Lett., 41, 7245–7253, doi:10.1002/2014GL061005.
41. Montaggioni, L. F. (2005), History of Indo-Pacific coral reef systems since the last glaciation: Development patterns and controlling factors, Earth Sci. Rev., 71, 1–75, doi:10.1016/j.earscirev.2005.01.002.
42. Mori, N., T. Yasuda, H. Mase, T. Tom, and Y. Oku (2010), Projection of extreme wave climate change under global warming, Hydrol. Res. Lett., 4, 15–19, doi:10.3178/HRL.4.15.
43. Nelson, R. C. (1996), Hydraulic roughness of coral reef platforms, Appl. Ocean Res., 18, 265–274, doi:10.1016/S0141-1187(97)00006-0.
44. Nicholls, R. J., P. P. Wong, V. R. Burkett, J. O. Codignotto, J. E. Hay, R. F. McLean, S. Ragoonaden, and C. D. Woodroffe (2007), Coastal systems and low-lying areas, in Climate Change 2007: Impacts, Adaptation and Vulnerability, Contribution of Working Group II to the Fourth Annual Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, edited by M. L. Parry et al., pp. 315–356, Cambridge Univ. Press, Cambridge, U. K.
45. Nielsen, P. (1992), Coastal bottom boundary layers and sediment transport, Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng., vol. 4, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
46. Nwogu, O., and Z. Demirbilek (2010), Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 136, 295–305, doi:10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050.
47. Osborne, A. R., L. Bergamasco, M. Serio, L. Bianco, L. Cavaleri, M. Drago, L. Iovenitti, and D. Viezzoli (1996), Nonlinear shoaling of shallow water waves: Perspective in terms of the inverse scattering transform, Il Nuovo Cimento C, 19, 151–176, doi:10.1007/BF02511838.
48. Pandolfi, J. M., S. R. Connolly, D. J. Marshall, and A. L. Cohen (2011), Projecting coral reef futures under global warming and ocean acidification, Science, 333(6041), 418–422, doi:10.1126/science.1204794.
49. Peng, Z., Q. Zou, D. Reeve, and B. Wang (2009), Parameterisation and transformation of wave asymmetries over a low-crested breakwater, Coastal Eng., 56, 1123–1132, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.005.
50. Péquignet, A.-C. N., J. M. Becker, M. A. Merrifield, and J. Aucan (2009), Forcing of resonant modes on a fringing reef during tropical storm Man-Yi, Geophys. Res. Lett., 36, L03607, doi:10.1029/2008GL036259.
51. Péquignet, A.-C. N., J. M. Becker, M. A. Merrifield, and S. J. Boc (2011), The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam, Coral Reefs, 30, 71–82, doi:10.1007/s00338-011-0719-5.
52. Péquignet, A.-C. N., J. M. Becker, and M. A. Merrifield (2014), Energy transfer between wind waves and low-frequency oscillations on a fringing reef, Ipan, Guam, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 119, 6709–6724, doi:10.1002/2014JC010179.
53. Pomeroy, A., R. Lowe, G. Symonds, A. Van Dongeren, and C. Moore (2012a), The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 117, C11022, doi:10.1029/2012JC008310.
54. Pomeroy, A. W. M., A. van Dongeren, R. J. Lowe, J. S. M. van Thiel de Vries, and J. Rovelvink (2012b), Low frequency wave resonance in fringing reef environments, Coastal Eng. Proc., 1(33), 1595–1604, doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.25.
55. Pomeroy, A. W. M., R. J. Lowe, A. R. van Dongeren, M. Ghisalberti, W. Bodde, and D. Roelvink (2015), Spectral wave-driven sediment transport across a fringing reef, Coastal Eng., 98, 78–94, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.01.005.
56. Quataert, E. (2015), Wave runup on atoll reefs, MS thesis, Delft Univ. of Technol., Delft, Netherlands.
57. Quataert, E., C. Storlazzi, A. van Rooijen, O. Cheriton, and A. van Dongeren (2015), The influence of coral reefs and climate change on wave-driven flooding of tropical coastlines, Geophys. Res. Lett., 42, 6407–6415, doi:10.1002/2015GL064861.
58. Seelig, W. N. (1983), Laboratory study of reef-lagoon system hydraulics, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 109(4), 380–391, doi:10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1983)109:4(380).
59. Sheppard, C., D. Dixon, M. Gourlay, A. Sheppard, and R. Payet (2005), Coral mortality increases wave energy reaching shores protected by reef flats: Examples from the Seychelles, Estuarine Coastal. Shelf Sci., 64(2–3), 223–234, doi:10.1016/j.ecss.2005.02.016.
60. Shimozono, T., Y. Tajima, A. B. Kennedy, H. Nobuoka, J. Sasaki, and S. Sato (2015), Combined infragravity wave and sea-swell runup over fringing reefs by super typhoon Haiyan, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 120, 4463–4486, doi:10.1002/2015JC010760.
61. Short, A. D. (1975), Multiple offshore bars and standing waves, J. Geophys. Res., 80(27), 3838–3840, doi:10.1029/JC080i027p03838.
62. Smithers, S. G., and R. K. Hoeke (2015), Geomorphological impacts of high-latitude storm waves on low-latitude reef islands—Observations of the December 2008 event on Nukutoa, Takuu, Papua New Guinea, Geomorphology, 222, 106–121, doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2014.03.042.
63. Storlazzi, C. D., E. Elias, M. E. Field, and M. K. Presto (2011), Numerical modeling of the impact of sea-level rise on fringing coral reef hydrodynamics and sediment transport, Coral Reefs, 30(1), 23–38, doi:10.1007/s00338-010-0705-3.
64. Storlazzi, C. D., E. P. L. Elias, and P. Berkowitz (2015a), Many atolls may be uninhabitable within decades due to climate change, Sci. Rep., 5, 14546, doi:10.1038/srep14546.
65. Storlazzi, C. D., J. B. Shope, L. H. Erikson, C. A. Hegermiller, and P. L. Barnard (2015b), Future wave and wind projections for United States and United States-affiliated Pacific Islands, U.S. Geol. Surv. Open File Rep., 2015-1001, 426 pp., doi:10.3133/ofr20151001.
66. Symonds, G., D. A. Huntley, and A. J. Bowen (1982), Two-dimensional surf beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint, J. Geophys. Res., 87(C1), 492–498, doi:10.1029/JC087iC01p00492.
67. Taebi, S., and C. Pattiaratchi (2014), Hydrodynamic response of a fringing coral reef to a rise in mean sea level, Ocean Dyn., 64, 975–987, doi:10.1007/s10236-014-0734-5.
68. Terry, J. P., A. Y. A. Lau, and A. Etienne (2013), Reef-Platform Coral Boulders: Evidence for High-Energy Marine Inundation Events on Tropical Coastlines, Springer, Singapore, doi:10.1007/978-981-4451-33-8.
69. Torres-Freyermuth, A., I. Mariño-Tapia, C. Coronado, G. Medellin, A. Pedrozo-Acuña, R. Silva, J. Candela, and R. Iglesias-Prieto (2012), Modeling water levels in Puerto Morelos reef lagoon, Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 12, 3765–3773, doi:10.5194/nhess-12-3765-2012.
70. Ursell, F. (1953), The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves, Proc. Cambridge Philos. Soc., 49(4), 685–694.
71. U.S. Department of Interior (2006), United States of American Insular Areas Energy Assessment Report, Pac. Power Assoc., Suva. [Available at www.doi.gov/oia/reports/upload/U-S-Insular-Area-Energy-Assessment-Report-2006.pdf.]
72. van Dongeren, A., J. Battjes, T. Janssen, J. van Noorloos, K. Steenhauer, G. Steenbergen, and A. Reniers (2007), Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C02011, doi:10.1029/2006JC003701.
73. van Dongeren, A., R. Lowe, A. Pomeroy, D. M. Trang, D. Roelvink, G. Symonds, and R. Ranasinghe (2013), Numerical modeling of low-frequency wave dynamics over a fringing coral reef, Coastal Eng., 73, 178–190, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.11.004.
74. Vetter, O., J. M. Becker, M. A. Merrifield, A.-C. Péquignet, J. Aucan, S. J. Boc, and C. E. Pollock (2010), Wave setup over a Pacific Island fringing reef, J. Geophys. Res., 115, C12066, doi:10.1029/2010JC006455.
75. Webb, A. P., and P. S. Kench (2010), The dynamic response of reef islands to sea-level rise: Evidence from multi-decadal analysis of island change in the Central Pacific, Global Planet. Change, 72, 234–246, doi:10.1016/j.gloplacha.2010.05.003.
76. Woodroffe, C. D. (2008), Reef-island topography and the vulnerability of atolls to sea-level rise, Global Planet. Change, 62, 77–96, doi:10.1016/j.gloplacha.2007.11.001.
77. Young, I. R. (1989), Wave transformations on coral reefs, J. Geophys. Res., 94(C7), 9779–9789, doi:10.1029/JC094iC07p09779.
78. Young, I. R., S. Zieger, and A. V. Babanin (2011), Global trends in wind speed and wave height, Science, 332, 451–455, doi:10.1126/science.1197219.