메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 136, Issue 6, 2010, Pages 295-305

Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs

Author keywords

Coral reefs; Infragravity waves; Long period surges; Ocean waves; Runup

Indexed keywords


EID: 85001848966     PISSN: 0733950X     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000050     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (153)

References (38)
  • 1
    • 0018703495 scopus 로고
    • Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves
    • ASCE, Reston, Va
    • Battjes, J. A., and Janssen, J. P. F. M. (1978). “Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves.” Proc., 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Reston, Va., 569-587.
    • (1978) Proc., 16Th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng , pp. 569-587
    • Battjes, J.A.1    Janssen, J.P.F.M.2
  • 2
    • 0016911761 scopus 로고
    • Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups
    • Bowers, E. C. (1977). “Harbour resonance due to set-down beneath wave groups.” J. Fluid Mech., 79, 71-92.
    • (1977) J. Fluid Mech , vol.79 , pp. 71-92
    • Bowers, E.C.1
  • 3
    • 84958444933 scopus 로고
    • Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
    • Carrier, G. F., and Greenspan, H. P. (1958). “Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach.” J. Fluid Mech., 4, 97-109.
    • (1958) J. Fluid Mech , vol.4 , pp. 97-109
    • Carrier, G.F.1    Greenspan, H.P.2
  • 4
    • 79961173792 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Laboratory study of wind effect on runup over fringing reefs. Report 1: Data report
    • U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Miss
    • Demirbilek, Z., Nwogu, O. G., and Ward, D. L. (2007). “Laboratory study of wind effect on runup over fringing reefs. Report 1: Data report.” Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Rep. No. ERDC/CHL-TR-07-4. U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Miss.
    • (2007) Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Rep. No. ERDC/CHL-TR-07-4
    • Demirbilek, Z.1    Nwogu, O.G.2    Ward, D.L.3
  • 5
    • 85001543124 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Chapter II1: Wave mechanics. Part II: Hydrodynamics. Engineer manual 1110–2-1100
    • U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C
    • Demirbilek, Z., and Vincent, C. L. (2002). “Chapter II1: Wave mechanics. Part II: Hydrodynamics. Engineer manual 1110–2-1100.” Coastal engineering manual, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering Manual
    • Demirbilek, Z.1    Vincent, C.L.2
  • 6
    • 0019357170 scopus 로고
    • Wave attenuation and wave set-up on a coastal reef
    • ASCE, Reston, Va
    • Gerritsen, F. (1980). “Wave attenuation and wave set-up on a coastal reef.” Proc., 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Reston, Va., 444-461.
    • (1980) Proc., 17Th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng , pp. 444-461
    • Gerritsen, F.1
  • 7
    • 0030199781 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealized two dimensional horizontal reef
    • Gourlay, M. R. (1996a). “Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealized two dimensional horizontal reef.” Coastal Eng., 27, 161-193.
    • (1996) Coastal Eng , vol.27 , pp. 161-193
    • Gourlay, M.R.1
  • 8
    • 0030237158 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles
    • Gourlay, M. R. (1996b). “Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles.” Coastal Eng., 28, 17-55.
    • (1996) Coastal Eng , vol.28 , pp. 17-55
    • Gourlay, M.R.1
  • 11
    • 34548591806 scopus 로고
    • Overwash variability on the shoreline of Guam during Typhoon Russ
    • University of Guam Press, UOG Station, Guam
    • Jaffe, B. E., and Richmond, B. M. 1993. “Overwash variability on the shoreline of Guam during Typhoon Russ.” Proc., 7th Int. Coral Reef Symp., University of Guam Press, UOG Station, Guam, 257-264.
    • (1993) Proc., 7Th Int. Coral Reef Symp , pp. 257-264
    • Jaffe, B.E.1    Richmond, B.M.2
  • 12
  • 14
    • 0018686111 scopus 로고
    • The energy spectra of surf waves on a coral reef
    • ASCE, Reston, Va
    • Lee, T. T., and Black, K. P. (1978). “The energy spectra of surf waves on a coral reef.” Proc., 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Reston, Va., 588-608.
    • (1978) Proc., 16Th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng , pp. 588-608
    • Lee, T.T.1    Black, K.P.2
  • 15
    • 0011558308 scopus 로고
    • Wave groupiness as a source of nearshore long waves
    • ASCE, Reston, Va
    • List, J. H. (1986). “Wave groupiness as a source of nearshore long waves.” Proc., 20th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., ASCE, Reston, Va., 497-511.
    • (1986) Proc., 20Th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng , pp. 497-511
    • List, J.H.1
  • 16
    • 12144283394 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Viscous effects on transient longwave propagation
    • Liu, P. L.-F., and Orfila, A. (2004). “Viscous effects on transient longwave propagation.” J. Fluid Mech., 520, 83-92.
    • (2004) J. Fluid Mech , vol.520 , pp. 83-92
    • Liu, P.L.1    Orfila, A.2
  • 17
    • 50549200900 scopus 로고
    • Radiation stress in water waves: Physical discussion with applications
    • Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Stewart, R. W. (1964). “Radiation stress in water waves: Physical discussion with applications.” Deep-Sea Res., 11, 529-562.
    • (1964) Deep-Sea Res , vol.11 , pp. 529-562
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 18
    • 0031430444 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I: Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves
    • Madsen, P. A., Sorensen, O. R., and Schaffer, H. A. (1997). “Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I: Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves.” Coastal Eng., 32, 255-287.
    • (1997) Coastal Eng , vol.32 , pp. 255-287
    • Madsen, P.A.1    Sorensen, O.R.2    Schaffer, H.A.3
  • 19
    • 0034028655 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs
    • Massel, S. R., and Gourlay, M. R. (2000). “On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs.” Coastal Eng., 39, 1-27.
    • (2000) Coastal Eng , vol.39 , pp. 1-27
    • Massel, S.R.1    Gourlay, M.R.2
  • 20
    • 0029412963 scopus 로고
    • Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone
    • Masselink, G. (1995). “Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone.” Cont. Shelf Res., 15, 1525-1547.
    • (1995) Cont. Shelf Res , vol.15 , pp. 1525-1547
    • Masselink, G.1
  • 21
    • 0344191779 scopus 로고
    • A conservation law related to Kelvin’s circulation theorem
    • McDonald, B. E., and Witting, J. M. (1984). “A conservation law related to Kelvin’s circulation theorem.” J. Comput. Phys., 56, 237-243.
    • (1984) J. Comput. Phys , vol.56 , pp. 237-243
    • McDonald, B.E.1    Witting, J.M.2
  • 22
    • 0000250029 scopus 로고
    • Adjustment of Bikini Atoll to ocean waves
    • Munk, W. H., and Sargent, M. C. (1948). “Adjustment of Bikini Atoll to ocean waves.” Trans., Am. Geophys. Union, 29, 855-860.
    • (1948) Trans., Am. Geophys. Union , vol.29 , pp. 855-860
    • Munk, W.H.1    Sargent, M.C.2
  • 23
    • 0026107691 scopus 로고
    • Bore-like surf beat in a reef zone caused by wave groups of incident short period waves
    • Nakaza, E., and Hino, M. (1991). “Bore-like surf beat in a reef zone caused by wave groups of incident short period waves.” Fluid Dyn. Res., 7, 89-100.
    • (1991) Fluid Dyn. Res , vol.7 , pp. 89-100
    • Nakaza, E.1    Hino, M.2
  • 25
    • 0027789687 scopus 로고
    • Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for near-shore wave propagation
    • Nwogu, O. (1993). “Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for near-shore wave propagation.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 119(6), 618-638.
    • (1993) J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng , vol.119 , Issue.6 , pp. 618-638
    • Nwogu, O.1
  • 26
    • 0006228997 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • BOUSS-2D: Boussinesq wave model for coastal regions and harbors
    • Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Miss
    • Nwogu, O., and Demirbilek, Z. (2001). “BOUSS-2D: Boussinesq wave model for coastal regions and harbors.” Technical Rep. No. ERDC/CHL TR-01-25. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, Vicksburg, Miss.
    • (2001) Technical Rep. No. ERDC/CHL TR-01-25
    • Nwogu, O.1    Demirbilek, Z.2
  • 27
    • 67650931082 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interaction of finite-amplitude waves with vertically sheared current fields
    • Nwogu, O. G. (2009). “Interaction of finite-amplitude waves with vertically sheared current fields.” J. Fluid Mech., 627, 179-213.
    • (2009) J. Fluid Mech , vol.627 , pp. 179-213
    • Nwogu, O.G.1
  • 28
    • 0005175486 scopus 로고
    • The impact of typhoon Pamela, 1976, on Guam’s coral reefs and beaches
    • Ogg, J. G., and Koslow, J. A. (1978). “The impact of typhoon Pamela, 1976, on Guam’s coral reefs and beaches.” Pacific Science, 32, 105-118.
    • (1978) Pacific Science , vol.32 , pp. 105-118
    • Ogg, J.G.1    Koslow, J.A.2
  • 29
    • 0030440475 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Observations and predictions of runup
    • 575-25, 587
    • Raubenheimer, B., and Guza, R. T. (1996). “Observations and predictions of runup.” J. Geophys. Res., 101, 25, 575-25, 587.
    • (1996) J. Geophys. Res , vol.101 , pp. 25
    • Raubenheimer, B.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 30
    • 0020518502 scopus 로고
    • Laboratory study of reef-lagoon system hydraulics
    • Seelig, W. (1983). “Laboratory study of reef-lagoon system hydraulics.” J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng., 109(4), 380-391.
    • (1983) J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, Ocean Eng , vol.109 , Issue.4 , pp. 380-391
    • Seelig, W.1
  • 31
    • 0345120727 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves. Part II: Wave-induced set-down and setup on a submerged coral reef
    • Skotner, C., and Apelt, C. J. (1999). “Application of a Boussinesq model for the computation of breaking waves. Part II: Wave-induced set-down and setup on a submerged coral reef.” Ocean Eng., 26, 927-947.
    • (1999) Ocean Eng , vol.26 , pp. 927-947
    • Skotner, C.1    Apelt, C.J.2
  • 32
    • 0001957739 scopus 로고
    • General circulation experiments with the primitive equations
    • Smagorinsky, J. (1963). “General circulation experiments with the primitive equations.” Mon. Weather Rev., 91, 99-164.
    • (1963) Mon. Weather Rev , vol.91 , pp. 99-164
    • Smagorinsky, J.1
  • 33
    • 0021521973 scopus 로고
    • Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone
    • Svendsen, I. A. (1984). “Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone.” Coastal Eng., 8, 303-329.
    • (1984) Coastal Eng , vol.8 , pp. 303-329
    • Svendsen, I.A.1
  • 34
    • 0028838897 scopus 로고
    • Wave-driven flow over shallow reefs
    • 639-2, 648
    • Symonds, G., Black, K. P., and Young, I. R. (1995). “Wave-driven flow over shallow reefs.” J. Geophys. Res., 100, 2, 639-2, 648.
    • (1995) J. Geophys. Res , vol.100 , pp. 2
    • Symonds, G.1    Black, K.P.2    Young, I.R.3
  • 35
    • 0019999201 scopus 로고
    • Two dimensional surf-beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying break point
    • Symonds, G., Huntley, D., and Bowen, A. (1982). “Two dimensional surf-beat: Long wave generation by a time-varying break point.” J. Geophys. Res., 87, 492-498.
    • (1982) J. Geophys. Res , vol.87 , pp. 492-498
    • Symonds, G.1    Huntley, D.2    Bowen, A.3
  • 36
    • 0000862150 scopus 로고
    • Wave setup on coral reefs
    • Tait, R. J. (1972). “Wave setup on coral reefs.” J. Geophys. Res., 77, 2207-2211.
    • (1972) J. Geophys. Res , vol.77 , pp. 2207-2211
    • Tait, R.J.1
  • 37
    • 36849141514 scopus 로고
    • A method for the numerical calculation of hydrodynamic shocks
    • Von Neumann, J., and Richtmyer, R. (1950). “A method for the numerical calculation of hydrodynamic shocks.” J. Appl. Phys., 21, 232-237.
    • (1950) J. Appl. Phys , vol.21 , pp. 232-237
    • Von Neumann, J.1    Richtmyer, R.2
  • 38
    • 0025920149 scopus 로고
    • The runup of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves
    • Zelt, J. A. (1991). “The runup of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves.” Coastal Eng., 15, 205-246.
    • (1991) Coastal Eng , vol.15 , pp. 205-246
    • Zelt, J.A.1


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.