Identification of dyestuffs in historical textiles: Strong and weak points of a non-invasive approach

Dyes and Pigments

Volumn 98, Issue 1, 2013, Pages 136-145

  Gulmini, M ^a   Idone, A ^b,c   Diana, E ^a   Gastaldi, D ^a   Vaudan, D ^c   Aceto, M ^b  

^a UNIVERSITY OF TURIN   (Italy)

^b UNIVERSITY OF EASTERN PIEDMONT   (Italy)

^c Aosta Hospital   (Italy)

Author keywords

Historical textiles; Natural dyestuffs; Non invasive analyses; Textile conservation; Textile restoration; Vis fors

Indexed keywords

DYEING; FIBER OPTICS; LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY; MASS SPECTROMETRY; REFLECTION; SPECTROSCOPY; TEXTILES; WOOL;

ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRA; ELECTRONIC TRANSITION; NATURAL DYESTUFFS; NON-INVASIVE ANALYSES; PRELIMINARY INFORMATION; REFLECTANCE SPECTROSCOPY; TEXTILE CONSERVATION; VIS-FORS;

FIBERS;

EID: 84874934687     PISSN: 01437208     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2013.02.010     Document Type: Article

References (45)

1. Rosenberg E. Characterisation of historical organic dyestuffs by liquid chromatographyemass spectrometry. Anal Bional Chem 2008;391:33-57.
2. Degano I, Ribechini E, Modugno F, Colombini MP. Analytical methods for the characterization of organic dyes in artworks and in historical textiles. Appl Spectrosc Rev 2009;44:363-410.
3. Zang X, Laursen LA. Development of mild extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in textiles of historical interest using LCediode array detectore MS. Anal Chem 2005;77:2022-5.
4. Manhita A, Ferreira T, Candeias A, Barrocas Dias C. Extracting natural dyes from wooldan evaluation of extraction methods. Anal Bional Chem 2011; 400:1501-4.
5. 4. J Raman Spectrosc 2011;42:1267-81.
6. Casadio F, Leona M, Lombardi JR, Van Duyne R. Identification of organic colorants in fibers, paints, and glazes by surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy. Acc Chem Res 2010;43:782-91.
7. Miliani C, Rosi F, Brunetti BG, Sgamellotti A. In situ noninvasive study of artworks: the MOLAB multitechnique approach. Acc Chem Res 2010;43: 728-38.
8. Aceto M, Agostino A, Fenoglio G, Gulmini M, Bianco V, Pellizzi E. Non-invasive analysis of miniature paintings: proposal for an analytical protocol. Spectrochim Acta Part A 2012;91:352-9.
9. Bacci M. Fibre optics applications to works of art. Sensor Actuat B Chem 1995; 29:190-6.
10. Dupuis G, Elias M, Simonot L. Pigment identification by fiber-optics diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. Appl Spectrosc 2002;56:1329-36.
11. Bacci M. UV-VIS-NIR, FT-IR, and FORS spectroscopies. In: Ciliberto E, Spoto G, editors. Modern analytical methods in art and archaeology. New York: John Wiley & Sons; 2000. p. 321-61.
12. Bisulca C, Picollo M, Bacci M, Kunzelman D. UV-Vis-NIR reflectance spectroscopy of red lakes in paintings. In: Notea A, Shoef Y, editors. Art2008: proceedings of the 9th international conference on non-destructive investigations and microanalysis for the diagnostics and conservation of cultural and environmental heritage, 2008 May 25-30, Jerusalem, Israel. Jerusalem: ISAS International Seminars (CD-Rom).
13. Clementi C, Doherty B, Gentilini PL, Miliani C, Romani A, Brunetti BG, et al. Vibrational and electronic properties of painting lakes. Appl Phys A Mater 2008;92:25-33.
14. Bacci M, Cazenobe I, Picollo M, Porcinai S, Radicati B. Non-destructive spectroscopic investigations of dyed textiles. In: Proceedings of the international conference on science and technology for the safeguard of cultural heritage in the Mediterranean Basin, 2001 Jul 9e17, Alcalà de Henares, Spain.
15. Angelini LG, Tozzi S, Bracci S, Quercioli F, Radicati B, Picollo M. Characterization of traditional dyes of the Mediterranean area by non-invasive UV- Vis-NIR reflectance spectroscopy. In: Rozeik C, Roy A, Saunders D, editors. Conservation and the Eastern Mediterranean. London: The International Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works; 2009. p. 184-9.
16. Pozzi F, Poldi G, Bruni S, De Luca E, Guglielmi V. Multi technique characterization of dyes in ancient Kaitag textiles form Caucasus. Archeol Anthropol Sci 2012;4:185-97.
17. Cardon D. Natural dyes. Sources, tradition, technology and science. London: Archetype Publications; 2007.
18. Hofenk de Graaff JH. The colourful past. Origin, chemistry and identification of natural dyestuffs. London: Archetype Publications; 2004.
19. Poldi G. Coloranti in tappeti cinesi. Il ruolo della spettrometria in riflettanza. In: Tabibnia M, Marchesi T, editors. Intrecci cinesi. Antica arte tessile, XV-XIX secolo. Milano: Moshe Tabibnia edizione; 2011. p. 82-99.
20. Balfour-Paul J. Indigo. London: Archetype Publications; 2006.
21. Cooksey C. Hematoxylin and related compounds e an annotated bibliography concerning their origin, properties, chemistry, and certain applications. Biotech Histochem 2010;85:65-82.
22. Karapanagiotis I, Chryssoulakis Y. Investigation of red natural dyes used in historical objects by HPLCeDADeMS. Ann Chim-Rome 2005;95:75-84.
23. Zarkogianni M, Papliaka ZE, Tsatsaroni E. Identification and quantitative determination of madder by high performance liquid chromatography: application to historical textiles. J Liq Chromatogr Relat Technol 2009;32: 2334-45.
24. Valianou L, Karapanagiotis I, Chryssoulakis Y. Comparison of extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in historical textiles by high performance liquid chromatograph. Anal Bioanal Chem 2009;395:2175-89.
25. Monahan AR, Kuder JE. Spectroscopic differences between crystalline and amorphous phases of indigo. J Org Chem 1972;37:4182-4.
26. Amat A, Rosi F, Miliani C, Sgamellotti A, Fantacci S. Theoretical and experimental investigation of the spectroscopic properties of indigo dyes. J Mol Struct 2011;993:43-51.
27. Serrano-Andrés L, Roos BO. A theoretical study of the indigoid dyes and their chromophore. Chem Eur J 1997;3:717-25.
28. Shirai K, Matsuoka M. Structure and properties of hematein derivatives. Dyes Pigm 1996;32:159-69.
29. Bettinger C, Zimmermann HW. New investigations on hematoxylin, hematein, and hemateinealuminium complexes. I. Spectroscopic and physico-chemical properties of hematoxylin and hematein. Histochemistry 1991;95:279-88.
30. Grazia C, Clementi C, Miliani C, Romani A. Photophysical properties of alizarin and purpurin Al(III) complexes in solution, and in solid state. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2011;10:1249-54.
31. Say-Liang-Fat S, Cornard JP. Al(III) complexation by alizarin studied by electronic spectroscopy and quantum chemical calculations. Polyhedron 2011;30: 2326-32.
32. Favaro G, Miliani C, Romani A, Vagnini M. Role of protolytic interactions in photo-aging processes of carminic acid and carminic lake in solution and painted layers. J Chem Soc Perkin Trans 2 2002;1:192-7.
33. Wongsooksin K, Rattanaphani S, Tangsathitkulchai M, Rattanaphani V, Bremner JB. Study on an Al(III) complex with the plant dye brazilein from Caesalpinia sappan L. Suranaree J Sci Technol 2008;15:159-65.
34. Roger P, Villela-Petit I, Vandroy S. Les laques de brésil dans l'enluminure médiévale: reconstitution à partir de recettes anciennes. Stud Conserv 2003; 48:155-70.
35. de Souza RV, Sussuchi EM, De Giovanni WF. Synthesis, electrochemical, spectral, and antioxidant properties of complexes of flavonoids with metal ions. Synth React Inorg Met 2003;33:1125-44.
36. Malesev D, Kunti V. Investigation of metaleflavonoid chelates and the determination of flavonoids via metaleflavonoid complexing reactions. J Serb Chem Soc 2007;72:921-39.
37. Priyadarsini KI. Photophysics, photochemistry and photobiology of curcumin: studies from organic solutions, bio-mimetics and living cells. J Photochem Photobiol C 2009;10:81-95.
38. Jiang T, Wang L, Zhang S, Sun PC, Ding CF, Chu YQ, et al. Interaction of curcumin with Al(III) and its complex structures based on experiments and theoretical calculations. J Mol Struct 2011;1004:163-73.
39. Orfanou O, Tsimidou M. Evaluation of the colouring strength of saffron spice by UV-Vis spectrometry. Food Chem 1996;57:463-9.
40. Rodriguez-Amaya DB. A guide to carotenoid analysis in foods. Washington, D.C.: ILSI Press; 2001.
41. Tarantilis PA, Tsoupras G, Pellissiou M. Determination of saffron (Crocus sativus L.) components in crude plant extracts using high-performance liquid chromatographyeUVevisible photodiode-array mass spectrometry. J Chromatogr A 1995;699:107-18.
42. Cazenobe I, Bacci M, Picollo M, Radicati B. Non-destructive spectroscopic investigations of dyed textiles: an application to yellow dyed wool samples. In: Triennial meeting (13th). Rio de Janeiro, 22e27 September 2002 preprints. London: James and James; 2002. p. 238-44.
43. Szostek B, Orska-Gawrys J, Surowiec I, Trojanowicz M. Investigation of natural dyes occurring in historical Coptic textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography with UV-Vis and mass spectrometric detection. J Chromatogr A 2003;1012:179-92.
44. Wouters J, Verhecken A. The coccid insects dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns. Stud Conserv 1989;34:189-200.
45. Peggie DA, Hulme AN, McNab H, Quye A. Towards the identification of characteristic minor components form textiles dyed with weld (Reseda luteola L.) and those dyed with Mexican cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa). Microchim Acta 2008;163:371-80.