Multi-technique characterization of dyes in ancient Kaitag textiles from Caucasus

Archaeological and Anthropological Sciences

Volumn 4, Issue 3, 2012, Pages 185-197

  Pozzi, Federica ^a   Poldi, Gianluca ^b   Bruni, Silvia ^a   De Luca, Eleonora ^a   Guglielmi, Vittoria ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF MILAN   (Italy)

^b UNIVERSITY OF BERGAMO   (Italy)

Author keywords

HPLC; IR reflectography; Kaitag textiles; Organic dyes; SEM EDX; SERS; Vis RS

Indexed keywords

EID: 84873030876     PISSN: 18669557     EISSN: 18669565     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1007/s12520-012-0092-5     Document Type: Article

References (37)

1. Bacci M (2000) UV-VIS-NIR, FT-IR, and FORS spectroscopies. In: Ciliberto E, Spoto G (eds) Modern analytical methods in art and archaeology. Springer, New York, pp 321-360.
2. Baker CA (1983) A comparison of drawing inks using ultraviolet and infrared light examination techniques. In: England PA, van Zelst L (eds) Application of science in examination of works of art, proceedings of the seminar. Research Laboratory, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, pp 159-163.
3. Binant C (1990) Application de la microspectroscopie de réfléxion diffuse à l'analyse de pigments rouges organiques. In: Pigments et colorants. Éditions du CNRS, Paris, pp 153-162.
4. Bisulca C, Picollo M, Bacci M, Kunzelman D (2008) UV-vis-NIR reflectance spectroscopy of red lakes in paintings. In: 9th International Conference on NDT of Art (Jerusalem, 25-30 May 2008). Jerusalem.
5. Brosseau CL, Gambardella A, Casadio F, Grzycawz CM, Wouters J, van Duyne RP (2009) Ad-hoc surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy methodologies for the detection of artist dyestuffs: thin layer chromatography-surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy and in situ on the fiber analysis. Anal Chem 81: 3056-3062.
6. Bruni S, Caglio S, Guglielmi V, Poldi G (2008) The joined use of n. i. spectroscopic analyses-FTIR, Raman, visible Reflectance Spectrometry and EDXRF-to study drawings and illuminated manuscripts. Appl Phys A-Mater 92: 103-108.
7. Bruni S, Guglielmi V, Pozzi F (2010) Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) on silver colloids for the identification of ancient textile dyes: tyrian purple and madder. J Raman Spectrosc 41: 175-180.
8. 4. J Raman Spectrosc 42: 1267-1281.
9. Bruni S, Guglielmi V, Pozzi F, Mercuri AM (2011b) Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) on silver colloids for the identification of ancient textile dyes. Part II: pomegranate and sumac. J Raman Spectrosc 42: 465-473.
10. Casadio F, Leona M, Lombardi JR, van Duyne R (2010) Identification of organic colorants in fibers, paints, and glazes by surface enhanced Raman spectroscopy. Acc Chem Res 43: 782-791.
11. Chenciner R (1993) Kaitag. Textile art from Daghestan. Textile Art Publications, London.
12. Colombini MP, Andreotti A, Baraldi C, Degano I, Lucejko JJ (2007) Colour fading in historical paint micro-samples. Microchim Acta 162: 361-370.
13. Hofenk de Graaf JH (2004) The colourful past. Origins, chemistry and identification of natural dyestuffs. With contributions from Wilma G. Th. Roelofs and Maarten R. van Bommel. Abegg-Stiftung and Archetype Publications Ltd., p 321.
14. Hahn O, Valzer W, Kanngiesse B, Beckhoff B (2004) Characterization of iron-gall inks in historical manuscripts and music compositions using X-ray fluorescence spectrometry. X-ray Spectrom 33: 234-239.
15. Hunt D, Chenchiner R (2006) Colour symbolism in the folk literature and textile tradition of the Caucasus. Opt Laser Technol 38: 458-465.
16. Joosten I, van Bommel MR, Hofmann-de Keijzer R, Reschreiter H (2006) Micro analysis on Hallstatt textiles: colour and condition. Microchim Acta 155: 169-174.
17. Jurasekova Z, del Puerto E, Bruno G, García-Ramos JV, Sanchez-Cortes S, Domingo C (2010) Extractionless non-hydrolysis surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopic detection of historical mordant dyes on textile fibers. J Raman Spectrosc 41: 1455-1461.
18. Karapanagiotis L, Valianou L, Daniilia S, Chryssoulakis Y (2007) Organic dyes in byzantine and post-byzantine icons from Chalkidiki (Greece). J Cult Herit 8: 294-298.
19. Kirby J (1977) A spectrophotometric method for the identification of lake pigment dyestuffs. Natl Gallery Tech Bull 4: 35-44.
20. Kolar J, Stolfa A, Strlič M, Pompe M, Pihlar B, Budnar M, Simčič RB (2006) Historical iron gall ink containing documents-properties affecting their condition. Anal Chim Acta 555: 167-174.
21. Körtum G (1969) Reflectance spectroscopy. Principles, methods, application. Springer, Berlin.
22. Lee PC, Meisel D (1982) Adsorption and surface-enhanced Raman of dyes on silver and gold sols. J Phys Chem 86: 3391-3395.
23. Leona M, Lombardi JR (2007) Identification of berberine in ancient and historical textiles by surface-enhanced Raman scattering. J Raman Spectrosc 38: 853-858.
24. Leona M, Winter J (2001) Fiber optics reflectance spectroscopy: a unique tool for the investigation of paintings. Stud Conserv 46: 153-162.
25. Leona M, Stenger J, Ferloni E (2006) Application of surface-enhanced Raman scattering techniques to the ultrasensitive identification of natural dyes in works of art. J Raman Spectrosc 37: 981-992.
26. Leona M, Decuzzi P, Kubic TA, Gates G, Lombardi JR (2011) Nondestructive identification of natural and synthetic organic colorants in works of art by surface enhanced Raman scattering. Anal Chem 83: 3990-3993.
27. Poldi G (2010) Analisi scientifiche su tappeti e altri tessili: note introduttive e prospettive di ricerca. In: Tabibnia M, Marchesi T, Piccoli E (eds) Crivelli e l'arte tessile. Electa, Milano, pp 155-179.
28. Poldi G (2011) Coloranti in tappeti cinesi. Il ruolo della spettrometria in riflettenza. In: Intrecci cinesi. Antica arte tessile (XV-XIX secolo). Moshe Tabibnia, Milano, pp 82-99.
29. Poldi G, Bonizzoni L (2008) Di mescole e di strati. Precisazioni sui pigmenti della pala di San Zeno di Mantegna secondo le analisi integrate ED-XRF e vis-RS. In: Pesci F, Toniolo L (eds) La Pala di San Zeno, la Pala Trivulzio. Conoscenza, conservazione, monitoraggio, Atti della giornata di studi (Verona, Palazzo della Gran Guardia, 5 dicembre 2006). Marsilio, Venezia, pp 104-119.
30. Sanyova J (2008) Mild extraction of dyes by hydrofluoric acid in routine analysis of textiles: a model study on the decomposition of natural dyes. Microch J 85: 174-182.
31. Scaramuzza C (2010) Kaitag, arte per la vita. Tessuti ricamati dal Daghestan. Silvana Editoriale, Cinisello Balsamo.
32. Schanda J (2007) Colorimetry: understanding the CIE system. Wiley, Hoboken.
33. Schweppe H (1993) Handbuch der naturfarbstoffe. Landsberg/Lech, Germany.
34. Taylor GW (1983) Detection and identification of dyes on Anglo-Scandinavian textiles. Stud Conserv 28: 153-160.
35. van Bommel MR, Vanden Berghe I, Wallert AM, Boitelle R, Wouters J (2007) High-performance liquid chromatography and non-destructive three-dimensional fluorescence analysis of early synthetic dyes. J Chromatogr A 1157: 260-272.
36. Verri G, Tanimoto S, Higgitt C (2010) Inks and washes. In: Ambers J, Higgitt C, Saunders D (eds) Italian Renaissance drawings. technical examination and analysis. Archetype and the British Museum, London, pp 57-75.
37. Walton Rogers P (1999) Dyes in the Hochdorf Textiles. In: Banck-Burgess J (ed) Hochdorf IV, Die Textilfunde aus dem späthallstattzeitlichen Fürstengrab von Eberdingen-Hochdorf (Kreis Ludwigsburg) und weitere Grabtextilien aus hallstatt- und laténezeitlichen Kulturgruppen. Forschungen und Berichte zur Vor- und Frühgeschichte Baden-Württembergs 70. Theiß, Stuttgart, pp 240-245.