Hair structure, function, and physicochemical properties

The Science of Hair Care

Volumn , Issue , 2005, Pages 1-66

  Franbourg, A ^a   Leroy, F ^a  

^a L ORÉAL RECHERCHE   (France)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 80052627738     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
DOI: None     Document Type: Chapter

References (302)

1. www.tlhw.com.
2. Randebrook RJ. Neue Erkenntnisse über der morphologischen Aufbau des menschlichen Haares. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1964; 15: 691-706.
3. Bogaty HJ. Differences between adult and children’s hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1969; 20: 159-171.
4. Rook A. Racial and other genetic variations in hair form. Brit J Dermat 1975; 92: 599-600.
5. Das-Chaudhuri AB, Chopra VP. Variation in hair histological variables: medulla and diameter. Hum Hered 1984; 34: 217-221.
6. Hrdy D. Quantitative hair form variation in seven populations. Am J Phys Anthrop 1973; 39: 7-18.
7. Menkart J, Wolfram LJ, Mao I. Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1966; 17: 769-787.
8. Barman JM, Pecoraro V, Astore I. The normal trichogram of the adult. J Invest Dermatol 1965; 44: 233-236.
9. Lindelöf B, Forslind B, Hedblad MA, Kaveus U. Human hair form-morphology revealed by light and scanning electron microscopy and computer aided threedimensional reconstruction. Arch Dermatol 1988; 124: 1359-1363.
10. Franbourg A, Hallegot P, Baltenneck F, Toutain C, Leroy F. Current research on ethnic hair. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003; 48/6S: 115S-119S.
11. Mazurkiewicz LR, Phillips DG. Formation of crimp in wool during release of se. Proc 8th Int Wool Text Res Conf (Christchurch) 1990; IV: 512-521.
12. Swift JA. Morphology and histochemistry of human hair. In: Jolles P, Zahn H, Höcker H, eds. Formation and Structure of Human Hair. Basel: Birkhauser Verlag, 1997: 149-175.
13. Bernard BA. Hair shape of curly hair. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003; 48/6S: 120S-126S.
14. Luell E, Archer VE. Hair medulla variation with age in human males. Am J Phys Anthrop 1992; 22: 107-110.
15. Swift JA. Human hair cuticle: biologically conspired to the owner’s advantage. J Cosmet Sci 1999; 50: 23-47.
16. Negri AP, Cornell HJ, Rivett DE. The modification of the surface diffusion barrier of wool. J Soc Dyers Col 1993; 109: 296-300.
17. Swift JA. The cuticle controls bending stiffness of hair. J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 37-38.
18. Negri AP, Cornell HJ, Rivett DE. A model for the surface of keratin fibers. Text Res J 1993; 63: 109-115.
19. Allworden KZ. The properties of wool and a new chemical method for detecting damaged wool. Angew Chem 1916; 29: 77-78.
20. Leeder JD. The cell membrane complex and its influence on the properties of the wool fibre. Wool Sci Rev 1986; 63: 3-35.
21. Peet DJ, Wettenhall EH, Rivett DE, Allen AK. A comparative study of covalently-bound fatty acids in keratinized tissues. Comp Biochem Physiol 1992; 102B: 363-366.
22. Jones LN, Rivett DE. The role of 18-methyleicosanoic acid in the structure and formation of mammalian hair fibres. Micron 1997; 28: 469-485.
23. Zahn H, Messinger H, Höcker H. Covalently linked fatty acids at the surface of wool: part of the cuticle cell envelope. Text Res J 1994; 64: 554-555.
24. Marshall RC. Protein and fibre chemistry of wool. Proc 8th Int Wool Text Res Conf (Christchurch) I 1990; 169-189.
25. Swift JA, Holmes AW. Degradation of human hair by papain. Text Res J 1965; 35: 1014-1019.
26. Swift JA, Bews BJ. The chemistry of human hair cuticle, part III: the isolation and amino acid analysis of various subfractions of the cuticle obtained by pronase and trypsin digestion. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1976; 27: 289-300.
27. Powell B, Rogers GE. The role of keratin proteins and their genes in the growth, structure and properties of hair. In: Jolles P, Zahn H, Höcker H, eds. Formation and Structure of Human Hair. Basel: Birkhauser Verlag, 1997: 59-148.
28. Nienhaus M. PhD Thesis, RWTH Aachen, Germany, 1981.
29. Gummer CL. Elucidating penetration pathways into the hair fiber using novel microscopic techniques. J Cosmet Sci 2001; 52: 265-280.
30. Parbhu AN, Almqvist N, Bryson WG, Lal R. Ultrastructure and micromechanical properties of vertebrate keratin fibers: multimodal atomic force microscope imaging. Mol Biol Cell 1998; 9: 105A.
31. Parbhu AN, Bryson WG, Lal R. Disulfide bonds in the outer layer of keratin fibers confer higher mechanical rigidity: correlative nano-indentation and elasticity measurement with an AFM. Biochem 1999; 38: 11755-11761.
32. O’Connor SD, Komisarek KD, Baldeschwieler JD. Atomic force microscopy of human hair cuticles: a microscopic study of environmental effects on hair morphology. J Invest Dermatol 1995; 105: 96-99.
33. Kidd F. Cell structures in coarse keratinous fibres. Proc 3rd Int Wool Text Res Conf (Paris) I, 1965; 221-225.
34. Mercer EH. The heterogeneity of the keratin fibers. Text Res J 1953; 23: 388-397.
35. Orwin DFG, Woods JL. Composition of the cortex of sound and tender wools. J Text Inst 1980; 71: 315-317.
36. Kassenbeck P. Morphology and fine structure of hair. In: Orfanos C, Montagna W, Stuttgen G, eds. Hair Research. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 1981: 52-63.
37. Flanagan LM, Plowman JE, Bryson WG. The high sulphur proteins of wool: towards an understanding of sheep breed diversity. Proteomics 2002; 2: 1240-1246.
38. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Rogers GE. Keratins, Their Composition, Structure and Biosynthesis. Springfield: Charles C. Thomas, 1972.
39. Fraser RDB, Gillespie JM, MacRae TP. Tyrosine-rich proteins in keratins. Com Biochem Physiol 1973; 44B: 943-947.
40. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Rogers GE, Filshie BK. Lipids in keratinized tissues. J Mol Biol 1963; 7: 90-91.
41. Briki F, Busson B, Doucet J. Organization of microfibrils in keratin fibers studied by X-ray scattering modelling using the paracrystal concept. Biochim Biophys Acta 1998; 1429: 57-68.
42. Kaplin IJ, Whiteley KJ. An electron microscope study of fibril: matrix arrangements in high- and low-crimp wool fibres. Aust J Biol Sci 1978; 31: 231-240.
43. Kaplin LJ, Whiteley KJ. The structure of keratin macrofibrils, part I: keratins of high sulphur content. Proc 7th Int Wool Text Res Conf I, Tokyo 1985; 95-104.
44. Parry DAD, Steinert PM. Intermediate Filament Structure. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 1995.
45. Astbury WT. Some problems in the X-ray analysis of the structure of animal hairs and other protein fibres. Trans Faraday Soc 1933; 29: 193-211.
46. Baltenneck F, Bernard BA, Garson JC, Engström P, Riekel C, Leroy F, Franbourg A, Doucet J. Study of the keratinization process in human hair follicle by X-ray microdiffraction. Cell Mol Biol 2000; 46: 1017-1024.
47. Pauling L, Corey RB, Branson HR. The structure of proteins: two hydrogen-bonded helical configurations of the polypeptide chain. Proc Natl Acad Sci 1951; 37: 205-211.
48. Busson B, Briki F, Doucet J. Side-chains configurations in coiled coils reveled by the 5.15A meridional reflection on hard alpha-keratin X-ray diffraction patterns. J Struct Biol 1999; 125: 1-10.
49. Busson B, Doucet J. Modeling alpha-helical coiled coils: analytic relations between parameters. J Struct Biol 1999; 127: 16-21.
50. Crick FHC. The packing of alpha-helices: simple coiled-coil. Acta Cryst 1953; 6: 689-697.
51. Crewther WG, Dowling LM, Steinert PM, Parry DAD. Structure of intermediate filaments. Int J Biol Macromol 1983; 5: 267-274.
52. Ahmadi B, Speakman PT. Suberimidate crosslinking shows that a rod-shaped, low cystine, high helix protein prepared by limited proteolysis of reduced wool has four protein chains. FEBS Lett 1978; 94: 365-367.
53. Steinert PM, Markov L, Fraser RDB, Parry DAD. Keratin intermediate filament structure: crosslinking studies yield quantitative information on molecular dimensions and mechanism of assembly. J Mol Biol 1993; 230: 436-452.
54. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Suzuki E. Structure of the alpha- keratin microfibril. J Mol Biol 1976; 108: 435-452.
55. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP. The structure of the alpha-keratin microfibril. Biosci Rep 1983; 3: 517-525.
56. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP. Intermediate filament structure. Biosci Rep 1985; 5: 573-579.
57. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Parry DAD, Suzuki E. Intermediate filaments in alphakeratins. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 1986; 83: 1179-1183.
58. Parry DAD. Hard alpha-keratin intermediate filaments: an alternative interpretation of the low-angle equatorial X-ray diffraction pattern, and the axial disposition of putative disulphide bonds in the intra- and inter-protofilamentous networks. Int J Biol Macromol 1996; 19: 45-50.
59. Parry DAD, Marekov LN, Steinert PM. Subfilamentous protofibril structures in fibrous proteins. J Biol Chem 2001; 276: 39253-39258.
60. Jones LN, Simon M, Watts NR, Booy FP, Steven AC, Parry DAD. Intermediate filament structure: hard alpha-keratin. Biophys Chem 1997; 68: 83-93.
61. Leroy F, Franbourg A. Unpublished results.
62. Spei M. The ordered matrix: fact or artefact. Proc 5th Wool Text Res Conf (Aachen) II, 1975; 90.
63. Gillespie JM. The isolation and properties of some soluble proteins from wool, part IX: The proteins in wools of increased sulphur content. Aust J Biol Sci 1964; 17: 548-560.
64. Feughelman M. A model for the mechanical properties of the alpha-keratin cortex. Text Res J 1994; 64: 236-239.
65. Parry DAD, Fraser RTB, MacRae TP. Repeating patterns of amino acid residues in the sequences of some high sulphur proteins from alpha-keratin. Int J Biol Macromol 1979; 1: 17-22.
66. Brady PR. Diffusion of dyes in natural fibres. Rev Prog Coloration 1992; 22: 58-78.
67. Corcuff P, Gremillet P, Jourlin M, Duvault Y, Leroy F, Levêque JL. 3D reconstruction of human hair by confocal microscopy. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1993; 44: 1-12.
68. Bradbury JH. The structure and chemistry of keratin fibers. Adv Prot Chem 1973; 27: 111-211.
69. Mercer EH. The contribution of the resistant cell membranes to the properties of keratinized tissues. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1965; 16: 507-514.
70. Nagase S, Shibuichi S, Ohshika M, Okamoto M. Structure factors of hair fiber influencing on beautiful appearance of hai. Proc 21st IFSCC Int Congr (Berlin) 2000; 1: 36.
71. Lang J, Lucas C. The analysis of hair keratin I. Application of microbiological techniques to hydrolysates of human hair. Biochem J 1952; 52: 84-87.
72. Robbins CR, Kelly CH. Amino acid composition of human hair. Text Res J 1970; 40: 891-896.
73. Wortmann FJ, Wortmann G, Zahn H. Applying principal components analysis to the amino acid composition of keratin materials. Text Res J 1995; 65: 669-675.
74. Gillespie JM, Lennox FG. Preparation of an electrophoretically homogenous keratin derivative from wool. Biochim Biophys Acta 1953; 12: 481-482.
75. Alexander P, Earland C. Structure of wool fibres: isolation of an alpha and beta protein in wool. Nature 1950; 166: 396-397.
76. Wolfram LJ, Milligan B. Non-covalent bonding in keratins: the effect of esterification and acylation on the properties of wool. Proc 5th Int Wool Text Res Conf (Aachen) III 1975; 242-252.
77. Rogers GE. In: Montagna W, Lobitz WC, eds. The Epidermis. Lake Arrolohead: Academic Press, 1964.
78. Bradbury JH, Chapman GV, Hambly AN, King NLR. Separation of chemically unmodified histological components of keratin fibres and analysis of cuticles. Nature 1966; 210: 1333-1334.
79. Swift JA. Minimum depth electron probe X-ray microanalysis as a means for determining the sulphur content of the human hair surface. Scanning 1979; 2: 83-88.
80. Blout ER. The dependence of the conformations of synthetic polypeptides on amino acid composition. J Am Chem Soc 1960; 82: 3787-3789.
81. Mackinnon PJ, Powell BC, Rogers GE. Structure and expression of genes for a class of cysteine-rich proteins of the cuticle layers of differentiating wool and hair follicles. J Cell Biol 1990; 111: 2587-2600.
82. Jenkins BJ, Powell BC. Differential expression of genes encoding a cysteine-rich keratin family in the hair cuticle. J Invest Dermatol 1994; 103: 310-317.
83. Rogers MA, Langbein L, Winter H, Ehmann C, Praetzel S, Schweizer J. Characterization of a first domain of human high glycine-tyrosine and high sulfur keratin-associated protein (KAP) genes on chromosome 21q22.1. J Biol Chem 2002; 277: 48993-49002.
84. Langbein L, Rogers MA, Winter H, Praetzel S, Beckhaus U, Rackwitz HR, Schweizer J. The catalog of human hair keratins. I. Expression of the nine type I members in the hair follicle. J Biol Chem 1999; 274: 19874-19884.
85. Langbein L, Rogers MA, Winter H, Praetzel S, Schweizer J. The catalog of human hair keratins. II. Expression of the six type II members in the hair follicle and the combined catalog of human type I and II keratins. J Biol Chem 2001; 276: 35123-35132.
86. Swift JA, Bews B. The chemistry of human hair cuticle, part II: the isolation and amino acid analysis of the cell membranes and A-layer. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1974; 25: 355-366.
87. Allen AK, Ellis J, Rivett DE. The presence of glycoproteins in the cell membrane complex of a variety of keratin fibres. Biochim Biophys Acta 1991; 1074: 331-333.
88. Dekio S, Jidoi J. Amounts of fibrous proteins and matrix substances in hairs of different races. J Dermatol 1990; 17: 62-64.
89. Geisler N, Plessman U, Weber K. Related amino acid sequences in neurofilaments and non-neural intermediate filaments. Nature 1982; 296: 448-450.
90. Dowling LM, Parry DAD, Sparrow LG. Structural homology between hard alphakeratin and the intermediate filament proteins desmin and vimentin. Biosci Rep 1983; 3: 73-78.
91. Hanukoglu I, Fuchs E. The cDNA sequence of a Type II cytoskeletal keratin reveals constant and variable structural domains among keratins. Cell 1983; 33: 915-924.
92. Conway JF, Parry DAD. Intermediate filament structure: 3. Analysis of sequence homologies. Int J Biol Macromol 1988; 10: 79-98.
93. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Sparrow LG, Parry DAD. Disulfide bonding in alphakeratin. Int J Biol Macromol 1988; 10: 106-112.
94. Parry DAD, North ACT. Hard alpha-keratin intermediate filament chains: substructure of the N- and C-terminal domains and the predicted structure and function of the C-terminal domains of type I and type II chains. J Struc Biol 1998; 122: 67-75.
95. Dekio S, Jidoi J. Hair low-sulfur protein composition does not differ electrophoretically among different races. J Dermatol 1998; 15: 393-396.
96. Rogers MA, Langbein L, Winter H, Ehmann C, Praetzel S, Korn B, Schweizer J. Characterization of a cluster of human high/ultrahigh sulfur keratin-associated protein genes embedded in the type I keratin gene domain on chromosome 17q12-21. J Biol Chem 2001; 276: 19440-19451.
97. Shimomura Y, Aoki N, Rogers MA, Langbein L, Schweizer J. Ito M. hKAP1.6 hKAP1.7, two novel human high sulfur keratin-associated proteins are expressed in the hair follicle cortex. J Invest Dermatol 2002; 118: 226-231.
98. Dowling LM, Key KF, Pearce AM. The protein composition of cells in the wool cortex. Proc 8th Int Wool Text Res Conf (Christchurch) I. 1990; 205-214.
99. Plowman JE, Bryson WG, Jordan TW. Application of proteomics for determining protein markers for wool quality traits. Electrophoresis 2000; 21: 1899-1906.
100. Shimomura Y, Aoki N, Schweizer J, Langbein L, Rogers MA, Winter H, Ito M. Polymorphisms in the human high sulfur hair keratin-associated protein 1, KAP1, gene family. J Biol Chem 2002; 277: 45493-45501.
101. Curry KV, Golding S. Hair lipids-the extraction of fatty materials from hair clippings. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1971; 22: 681-699.
102. Shaw DA. The extraction, quantification and nature of hair lipid. Int J Cosmet Sci 1979; 1: 291-302.
103. Bore P, Goetz N, Gataud P, Tourenq P. Evolution in the composition of human skin surface lipids during their accumulation on scalp and hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1982; 4: 39-52.
104. Goetz N, Kaba G, Good D, Hussler G, Bore P. Detection and identification of volatile compounds evolved from human hair and scalp using headspace gas chromatography. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1988; 39: 1-13.
105. Wertz PW, Downing DT. Integral lipids of mammalian hair. Comp Biochem Physiol 1989; 92B: 759-761.
106. Schwan A, Herrling J, Zahn H. Characterization of internal lipids from wool. Colloid Polymer Sci 1986; 264: 171-175.
107. Hussler G, Kaba G, Francois AM, Saint-Léger D. Isolation and identification of human hair ceramides. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1995; 17: 197-206.
108. Fraser RDB, MacRae TP, Rogers GE, Filshie BK. Lipids in keratinized tissues. J Mol Biol 1963; 7: 90-91.
109. Franbourg A, Leroy F, Doucet J. unpublished results.
110. Kreplak L, Briki F, Duvault Y, Doucet J, Merigoux C, Leroy F, Lévêque JL, Miller L, Carr GL, Williams GP, Dumas P. Profiling lipids across Caucasian and Afro-American hair transverse cuts, using synchrotron infrared microspectrometry. Int J Cosmet Sci 2001; 23: 369-374.
111. Kaba G, Manzin V. Private communication.
112. Valkovic V. Human Hair; Trace Elements Levels. CRC Press, 1988.
113. Kalasinsky KS. Drug distribution in human hair by infrared microscopy. Cell Mol Biol 1998; 44: 81-87.
114. Gibson RS, Anderson BM, Scythes CA. Regional differences in hair zinc concentrations: a possible effect of water hardness. Am J Clin Nutr 1983; 37: 37-42.
115. Phelps RW, Clarkson TW, Kershaw TG, Wheatley B. Interrelationships of blood and hair mercury concentrations in a North American population exposed to methylmercury. Arch Environ Health 1980; 35: 161-168.
116. Baumgartner W. Hair analysis for drugs of abuse. J Forensic Sci 1989; 34: 1433-1453.
117. Rivier L. Is there a place for hair analysis in doping controls? Forensic Sci Int 2000; 107: 309-323.
118. Wennig R. Potential problems with the interpretation of hair analysis results. Forensic Sci Int 2000; 107: 5-12.
119. Chamberlain N, Speakman JB. Hysteresis phenomena in the absorption of water by human hair. J Electrochem 1931; 37: 374-375.
120. White HJ, Stam PB. An experimental and theoretical study of the adsorption and swelling isotherms of human hair in water vapor. Text Res J 1949; 19: 136.
121. Carlson S. Waiter there’s a hair in my hygrometer. Scientific American 1998; 6: 74-75.
122. Clifford J, Sheard B. Nuclear magnetic resonance investigation of the state of water in human hair. Biopolymers 1966; 4: 1057-1065.
123. Lynch LJ, Haly AR. A NMR study of the anisotropy of water absorbed by keratin. Kolloid zz Polym 1970; 239: 581-586.
124. Yukihiroozaki Miura T, Sakurai K, Matsunaga T. Nondestructive analysis of water structure and content in animal tissues by FT-NIR spectroscopy with light-fiber optics, part I: Human hair. Appl Spec 1992; 46: 875-878.
125. Ito H, Miyamoto T, Inagaki H, Sakabe H. States of water sorbed on wool as studied by differential scanning calorimetry. Text Res J 1987; 57: 66-72.
126. Leveque JL, Garson JC, Pissis P. Free water in hair keratin? a depolarization thermalcurrent study. Biopolym 1980; 20: 2649-2656.
127. Maeda H. Water in keratin-piezoelectric, dielectric and elastic experiments. Biophys J 1989; 56: 861-868.
128. D’Arcy RL, Watt IC. Analysis of sorption isotherms of non-homogeneous sorbents. Trans Faraday Soc 1970; 66: 1236-1245.
129. Watt IC. Sorption of water vapor by keratin. J Macromol Sci Chem 1980; C18: 169-245.
130. Horikita M, Fukuda M, Takaoka A, Kawai H. Fundamental studies on the interaction between moisture and textiles, part X: moisture sorption properties of wool and hair fibers. Sen’i Gakkaishi 1989; 45: 367-381.
131. Algie JE. The nature of water absorbed by the protein keratin. J Text Inst 1971; 62: 696-699.
132. El-Shimi AF, Princen HM. Diffusion characteristics of water vapor in some keratins. Colloid Polym Sci 1978; 256: 209-217.
133. Lynch LJ, Webster DS. An investigation of the freezing of water associated with wool keratin by NMR methods. J Colloid Interf Sci 1979; 69: 238-246.
134. Stam R. The swelling of human hair in water and water vapor. Text Res J 1952; 22: 448-465.
135. Leroy F, Franbourg A, Leveque JL, Doucet J. Synchrotron light: a powerful tool for the analysis of human hair damages. Proc 10th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Rostock) 1996.
136. Kreplak L, Franbourg A, Briki F, Leroy F, Dalle D, Doucet J. A new deformation model for hard alpha-keratin fibers at the nanometer scale: implications for hard alpha-keratin intermediate filament mechanical properties. Biophys J 2002; 82: 2265-2274.
137. Spei M. Sorption behavior and thermal stability of the microfibril-matrix-complex of alpha-keratins. Proc 7th Int Wool Text Res Conf I, 312-318 Tokyo (1985).
138. Franbourg A, Leroy F, Leveque JL, Doucet J. Influence of water on the structure of alpha-keratin fibres. Proc 3rd Int Conf Biophys Sync Rad (Grenoble) 1995.
139. Swift JA. Swelling of human hair by water. Proc 8th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Kiel) (1992).
140. Kreplak L, Merigoux C, Briki F, Flot D, Doucet J. Investigation of human hair cuticle structure by microdiffraction: direct observation of cell membrane complex swelling. Biochim Biophys Acta 2001; 1547: 268-274.
141. Nishimura K, Nishino M, Inaoka Y, Kitada Y, Fukushima M. Interrelationship between the hair lipids and the hair moisture. Nippon Koshohin Kagallaishi 1989; 13: 134-139.
142. Breuer MM, Pritchard D. The behaviour of hair at low pH values. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1967; 18: 643-650.
143. Valko E, Barnett GJ. A study of the swelling of hair in mixed aqueous solvents. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1952; 3: 108-117.
144. Barnard W, White H. The swelling of hair a viscose rayon monofil in aqueous solutions. Text Res J 1954; 24: 695-704.
145. Riley PA. The nature of melanins. In: Jarrett A, ed. The Physiology and Pathophysiology of Skin. vol. 3, London: Academic 1974: 1102.
146. Albrecht L, Kurtz SK, Wolfram LJ. A contribution to understanding the nature of hair color. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1988; 39: 396.
147. Prota G. Melanins and Melanogenesis. San Diego: Academic Press, 1992.
148. Ito S. Biochemistry and physiology of melanin. In: Levine N, ed. Pigmentation and Pigmentary Disorders. New York: CRC Press, 1993: 33-59.
149. Orfanos C, Ruska H. Die Feinstruktur des menschlichen Haares, III. Das Haarpigment. Arch Klin Exp Dermatol 1968; 231: 279.
150. Borges CR, Roberts JC, Wilkins DG, Rollins DE. Relationship of melanin degradation products to actual melanin content: application to human hair. Anal Biochem 2001; 290: 116-125.
151. Zahn H. Feinbau und Chemie des Haares. II. Parfum Kosmet 1984; 65: 585-594.
152. Ortonne JP, Prota G. Hair melanins and hair color: ultrastructural and biochemical aspects. J Invest Dermatol 1993; 101: 82s-89s.
153. Chedekel MR. Photophysics and photochemistry of melanin. In: Zeise L, Chedekel MR, Fitzpatrick TB, eds. Melanin: Its Role in Human Photoprotection. Vol. 11. Overland Park, KS: Valdenmar Publishing Company, 1995: 11-23.
154. Chedekel MR, Post PW, Diebel RM, Klaus M. Photodestruction of pheomelanin. Photochem Photobiol 1977; 26: 651-653.
155. Vincensi MR, d’Ischia M, Napolitano A. Pheomelanin vs.eumelanin as a chemical indicator of UV susceptibility in red haired subjects: a pilot study. Melanoma Res 1998; 8: 53-58.
156. Wasserman HP. Ethnic Pigmentation. 1st ed. Amsterdam: Excerpta Medica, 1974.
157. Tolgyesi E. Weathering of hair. Cosmet Toiletries 1983; 98(10): 29-33.
158. Leroy F, Deflandre A, Garson JC. Photoaging of human hair. Proc 7th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Bad Neuenahr) 1988.
159. Arnaud JC, Boré P. Isolation of melanin pigments from human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1981; 32: 137-152.
160. Wolfram LJ, Hall KE, Hui I. The mechanism of hair bleaching. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1970; 21: 875-900.
161. Wolfram LJ, Albrecht L. Chemical- and photo-bleaching of brown and red hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1987; 82: 179-191.
162. Menon IA, Persad S, Haberman HF, Kurian CJ. A comparative study of the physical and chemical properties of melanins isolated from human black and red hair. J lnvest Dermatol 1983; 80(3): 202-206.
163. Nicolaus RA, Piatelli M, Fattorusso E. Structure of melanins and melanogenesis. IV. On some natural melanins. Tetrahedron 1964; 20: 1163.
164. Mason HS, Ingram DJE, Allen B. Free radical properties of melanins. Arch Biochem Biophys 1960; 86: 225-230.
165. Raper HS. Some problems of tyrosine metabolism. J Chem Soc 1938: 125-130.
166. Mason HS. Comparative biochemistry of phenoloxidase complexes. Adv Enzymol 1955; 14: 105-184.
167. Prota G, Crescenzi S, Misuraca G, Nicolaus RA. New intermediates in phaeomelanogenesis in vitro. Experientia 1970; 26: 1058-1060.
168. Ito G, Prota G. A facile one-step synthesis of cysteinyl dopas using mushroom tyrosinase. Experientia 1977; 33: 1118-1119.
169. Crescenzi S, Misuraca G, Novellino E, Prota G. Reazioni modello per la biosynthesi dei pigmenti feomelanici. Chimica e lndustria (Milan) 1975; 57: 392-393.
170. Chioccara F, Novellino E, Prota G. A trimeric aldolization product of 1,4-benzothiazine. J Chem Soc Chem Comm 1977: 50-51.
171. Prota G, d’Ischia M, Napolitano A. The chemistry of melanins and related metabolites. In: Nordlung JJ, Boissy RE, Hearing VJ, et al., eds. The Pigmentary System: Physiology and Pathophysiology. New York: Oxford University Press, 1998: 307-332.
172. Rorsman H, Agrup G, Hansson C, Rosengren AM, Rosengren E. Detection of phaeomelanins. In: Klaus SN, ed. Pigment Cell. Vol. 4. Basel: Karger. 1979: 244-252.
173. Prota G. In: Zappia V, ed. Cysteine and Glutathion in Human Pigmentation. Biochemistry of Low Molecular Weight Sulfur Containing Compounds. New York: Plenum, 1980.
174. Robbins CR, Scott GV. Prediction of hair assembly characteristics from single fiber properties. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1978; 29: 783-792.
175. Robbins CR, Reich C. Prediction of hair assembly characteristics from single-fiber properties, Part II: the relationship of fiber curvature, friction, stiffness and diameter to combing behavior. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1986; 37: 141-158.
176. Speakman JB. The plasticity of wool. Proc Roy Soc B 1928; 103: 377-396.
177. Speakman JB. The rigidity of wool and its change with adsorption of water vapour. Trans Faraday Soc 1929; 25: 93-103.
178. Speakman JB, Adsorption of water by wool. Adsorption of water by wool. J Soc Chem Ind 1930; 49: 209T-213T.
179. Rebenfeld L, Weigmann HD, Dansizer CJ. Temperature dependence of the mechanical properties of human hair in relation to structure. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1966; 17: 525-538.
180. Bendit EG. Mechanical properties of keratins. Proc 6th Int Wool Text Res Conf 6(2), 43-66 Pretoria (1980).
181. Bendit EG. There is no hookean region in the stress-strain curve of keratin (or other viscoelastic polymers). J Macromol Sci Phys 1980; B17(1): 129-140.
182. Bendit EG. A quantitative X-ray diffraction study of the alpha-beta transformation in wool keratin. Text Res J 1960; 30(8): 547-555.
183. Feughelman M. Cooperative unfolding of alpha-keratin. J Appl Polym Sci 1966; 10: 1937-1947.
184. Feughelman M. The mechanical properties of wool keratin. Royal Austral Chem Inst 1968; 35(5): 2-3.
185. Bendit EG. The alpha-beta transformation in keratin. Nature 1957; 4558: 535.
186. Crewther WG. The stress-strain characteristics of animal fibers after reduction and alkylation. Text Res J 1965; 35(10): 867-877.
187. Cao J, Joko K, Cook JR. DSC studies of the melting behaviour of alpha form crystallites in wool keratin. Text Res J 1997; 67(2): 117-123.
188. Cao J. Is the alpha-beta transition of keratin a transition of alpha-helices to betapleated sheets? Part II: Synchrotron investigation for stretched single specimens. J Mol Structure 2002; 607: 69-75.
189. Cao J. Is the alpha-beta transition of keratin a transition of alpha-helices to betapleated sheets? Part I: In situ XRD studies. J Mol Structure 2000; 553: 101-107.
190. Kreplak L, Doucet J, Briki F. Unravelling double stranded alpha-helical coiled coils. An X-ray diffraction study on hard alpha-keratin fibres. Biopolymers 2001; 58(5): 526-533.
191. Kamath YK, Hornby SB. Mechanical and fractographic behavior of negroid hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1984; 35: 21-43.
192. Henderson GH, Karg GM, O’Neill JJ. Fractography of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1978; 29: 449-467.
193. Kamath YK, Weigmann HD. Fractography of human hair. J Appl Polym Sci 1982; 27: 3809-3833.
194. Kamath YK, Hornsby SB, Weigmann HD. Effect of chemical and humectant treatments on the mechanical and fractographic behavior of negroid hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1985; 36(1): 39-52.
195. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair. 4 ed New York: Springer, 2002.
196. Scott GV, Robbins CR. Stiffness of human hair fibers. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1978; 29: 469-485.
197. Scott GV, Robbins CR. A convenient method for measuring fiber stiffness. Text Res J 1969; 39: 975-976.
198. Baltenneck F, Franbourg A, Leroy F, Mandon M, Vayssie C. A new approach of the bending properties of hair fibers. J Soc Cosmet Chem 2001; 52: 355-368.
199. Garson JC, Vidalis M, Roussopoulos P, Levêque JL. Les propriétés vibratoires transversales des fibres de kératine. Influence de l’eau et d’autres agents. Int J Cosmet Sci 1980; 2: 231-241.
200. Wolfram LJ, Albrecht L. Torsional behavior of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1985; 36(1): 87-99.
201. Chapman BM. An apparatus for measuring bending and torsional stress-strain-time relations of single fibers. Text Res J 1971; 41: 705-707.
202. Chapman BM, Hearle JWS. On polymeric materials containing fibrils with a phase transition. II. The mechanical consequence of matrix shear. J Macromol Sci Phys 1968; B2(4): 697-741.
203. Feldtman HD, Fleischfresser BE. The effect of hydrophobic interactions on the torsional setting and smooth-drying properties of wool. J Text Inst 1973; 64(11): 624-630.
204. Mitchell TW, Feughelman M. The torsional properties of single wool fibers, part I: torque- twist relationships and torsional relaxation in wet and dry fibers. Text Res J 1960; 30: 662-667.
205. Feughelman M, Watt IC. Torsional properties of chemically modified wool fibers. Text Res J 1966; 36: 849-850.
206. Feughelman M. The microfibril-matrix relationships in the mechanical properties of keratin fibers, part I: the torsional properties of melted and permanently set keratin fibers. Text Res J 1978; 48: 518-522.
207. Feughelman M, Mitchell TW. The torsional properties of single wool fibers. Part II. Text Res J 1961: 455-459.
208. Armstrong LD, Feughelman M. The torsional properties of normal and sulfur-enriched wool fibers, Part II: modulus of rigidity and torsional relaxation of fibers in water at temperatures between 20°C and 85°C. Text Res J 1969; 39: 267-272.
209. Feughelman M, Mitchell TW. The torsional properties of single wool fibers, part III: disulfide reduced and permanently set wool fibers. Text Res J 1964; 34: 593-597.
210. Armstrong LD, Feughelman M. The torsional properties of normal and sulfur-enriched wool fibers, part I: modulus of rigidity and torsional relaxation of wet and dry fibers at 20°C. Text Res J 1969; 39: 261-266.
211. Bogaty H. Torsional properties of hair in relation to permanent waving and setting. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1967; 18: 575-589.
212. Phillips DG. Effects of humidity, ageing, annealing and tensile loads on the torsional damping of wool fibers. Text Res J 1987; 57(7): 415-420.
213. Mottram FJ, Coad JR. Changes in the cross-linking of keratin fibers as revealed by stress-relaxation studies. Text Res J 1974; 44: 557-558.
214. Robinson MS, Rigby BJ. Thiol differences along keratin fibres-stress/strain and stress-relaxation behavior as a function of temperature and extension. Text Res J 1985; 55: 597-600.
215. Wood GC. The relaxation of stretched animal fibres-the relaxation of human hair. J Text Inst 1954; 45: 462-471.
216. Ferry JD. Viscoelastic Properties of Polymers. New York: Wiley, 1961.
217. Mason P. The viscoelasticity and structure of fibrous proteins, II: further dynamic measurements of keratin. Kolloid zz Polym 1967; 218: 46-52.
218. Danilatos GD, Postle R. Dynamic mechanical properties of keratin fibers during water absorption and desorption. J Appl Polym Sci 1981; 26: 193-200.
219. Danilatos GD, Feughelman M. The internal dynamic mechanical loss in alpha-keratin fibers during moisture sorption. Text Res J 1976; 46: 845-846.
220. Druhala M, Feughelman M. Dynamic mechanical loss in keratin at low temperatures. Colloid Polym Sci 1974; 252(5): 381-391.
221. Danilatos GD, Feughelman M. Dynamic mechanical properties of alpha keratin fibers during extension. J Macromol Sci Phys 1979; B19: 581-602.
222. Danilatos GD, Postle R. The time temperature dependence of the complex modulus of keratin fibers. J Appl Polym Sci 1983; 28: 1221-1224.
223. Danilatos GD, Postle R. Low-strain dynamic mechanical properties of keratin fibers during water absorption. J Macromol Sci Phys 1981; B1(19): 153-165.
224. Danilatos GD. The Dynamic Mechanical Properties of Keratin Fibres. Sydney: School of Textile Technology, University of New South Wales, 1977.
225. Mackay BH, Downes JG. The effect of the sorption process on the dynamic rigidity modulus of the wool fiber. J Appl Polym Sci 1959; 2(4): 32-38.
226. Robbins CR, Crawford RJ. Cuticle damage and tensile properties of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1991; 42: 59-67.
227. Ruetsch SB, Weigmann HD. Mechanism of tensile stress release in the keratin fiber cuticle: I. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1996; 47: 13-26.
228. Swift JA. Some simple theoretical considerations on the bending stiffness of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 1995; 17: 245-253.
229. France FG, Weatherall IL. Torsional properties of wool fibre. Proc 8th Int Wool Text Res Conf (Christchurch) 1990; 8(1): 609-618.
230. Feughelman M, Robinson MS. Some mechanical properties of wool fibers in the hookean region from zero to 100% relative humidity. Text Res J 1971; 41(6): 469-474.
231. Druhala M, Feughelman M. Mechanical properties of keratin fibres between -196 and 20°C. Kolloid zz Polym 1971; 248: 1032-1033.
232. Watt IC. Properties of wool fibers heated to temperature above 100 degrees. Text Res J 1975; 45: 728-735.
233. Mitchell TW, Feughelman. The mechanical properties of wool fibers in water at temperatures above 100 degree. Text Res J 1967; 37(8): 660-666.
234. Chapman BM. A review of the mechanical properties of keratin fibres. J Text Inst 1969; 60: 181-207.
235. Bull HB. Elasticity of keratin fibers, part II: influence of temperature. Jaocs 1945; 67: 533-536.
236. Hearle JWS. A critical review of the structural mechanics of wool and hair fibres. Int J Macromol 2000; 27: 123-138.
237. Feughelman M. A two-phase structure for keratin fibers. Text Res J 1959; 29: 223-228.
238. Wortmann FJ, Zahn H. The stress/strain curve of alpha-keratin fibers and the structure of the intermediate filament. Text Res J 1994; 64(12): 737-743.
239. Chapman BM. A mechanical model for wool and other keratin fibers. Text Res J 1969; 39: 1102-1109.
240. Bendit EG. A quantitative X-ray diffraction study of the alpha-beta transformation in wool keratin. Text Res J 1960; 30(8): 547-555.
241. Feughelman M, Haly AR. The mechanical properties of wool keratin and its molecular configuration. Kolloid zz Polym 1960; 168: 107-115.
242. Menefee E. A mechanical model for wool. Text Res J 1968; 38(12): 1149-1163.
243. Feughelman M. Relations between structure and the mechanical properties of keratin fibers. Appl Polym Symp 1971; 18(2): 757-774.
244. Menefee E. Relation of keratin structure to its mechanical behavior. Appl Polym Symp 1971; 18: 809-821.
245. Skertchly ARB. A unified structural theory for wool keratin. Nature 1964; 202: 161-164.
246. Crewther WG. The effects of disaggregating agents on the stress-strain relationship for wool fibers. Text Res J 1972; 42(2): 77-85.
247. Munakata H. The stress relaxation and set of wool fibers with particular reference to their structure and mechanical properties. Text Res J 1964; 3: 97-109.
248. Feughelman M. A note on the role of the microfibrils in the mechanical properties of alpha-keratins. J Macromol Sci Phys 1979; B16(1): 155-162.
249. Chapman BM, Hearle JWS. On polymeric materials containing fibrils with a phase transition, part I: General discussion of mechanics applied particularly to wools fibers. J Macromol Sci Phys 1968; B2(4): 663-695.
250. Chapman BM, Hearle JWS. On polymeric materials containing fibrils with a phase transition, part IV: Comparison model predictions with behaviour of wool fibers. J Macromol Sci Phys 1971; B5(4): 633-660.
251. Burte H, Halsey G. A new theory of non-linear viscous elasticity. Text Res J 1947; 17(9): 465-476.
252. Pichon E. Étude des propriétés mécaniques du cheveu. essais de traction et de relaxation. modé lisation. rô le de divers facteurs expérimentaux. Thèse de doctorat, Université de Besancon, France, 1989.
253. Tao X, Postle R. A viscoelastic analysis of the keratin composite, part I: Longitudinal and transverse mechanical properties. Text Res J 1989; 59: 123-138.
254. Tao X, Postle R. A viscoelastic analysis of the keratin composite, part II: thermal and hydral expansion. Text Res J 1989; 59: 300-306.
255. Curiskis JI, Feughelman M. A micromechanics analysis of the mechanical behavior of the alpha-keratin composite at low strains-theoretical formulation. Text Res J 1985; 55: 425-444.
256. Curiskis JI, Feughelman M. Finite element analysis of the composite fiber, alpha keratin. Text Res J 1983; 53: 271-274.
257. Kelly NC, Robinson VNE. The effect of grooming on the hair cuticle. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1982; 33: 203-215.
258. Kambe T, Fukuchi Y, Torii K. Studies on the mechanism of split ends generation and on the factors to cause the exfoliation of the cuticle cell layers in human hair. Proc 6th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Lüneburg) (1988).
259. Okumura T. Hair damage caused by cosmetic processing and its prevention. Proc 4th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Syburg) (1984).
260. Gamez-Garcia M. The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclical thermal stresses. J Soc Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 141-153.
261. Gamez-Garcia M. Cuticle decementation and cuticle buckling produced by Poisson contraction on the cuticular envelope of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Sci 1998; 49: 213-222.
262. Smith JR. Use of atomic force microscopy for high-resolution non-invasive structural studies of human hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1997; 48: 199-208.
263. McMullen RL, Kelty SP, Jachowicz J. Correlation of AFM/LFM with combing forces of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci 2000; 51: 334-335.
264. Baba T, Nagazawa N, Ito H, Yaida O, Miyamoto T. Changes in the covalently bound surface lipid layer of damaged wool fibers and their effects on surface properties. Textile Res J 2001; 71: 308-312.
265. Baba T, Nagasawa N, Ito H, Yaida O, Miyamoto T. Recovery of the surface properties of damaged wool fibers. Text Res J 2001; 71: 885-890.
266. Menefee E, Yee G. Thermally-induced structural changes in wool. Text Res J 1965; 35: 801-812.
267. Mason P. Thermal transitions in keratin, part II: thermal transitions in stressed keratin fibers. Text Res J 1964; 34: 1021-1026.
268. Mason P. Thermal transitions in keratin, part I: thermal expansion and structural transitions in alpha-keratin. Text Res J 1964; 34: 913-917.
269. Rama Rao D, Gupta VB. A comparative study of the thermal stability of three different wools. J Macromol Sci Phys 1992; B31(3): 319-327.
270. Rama Rao D, Gupta VB. Thermal characteristics of wool fibers. J Macromol Sci Phys 1992; B31(2): 149-162.
271. Milczarek P, Zielinski M, Garcia ML. The mechanism and stability of thermal transitions in hair keratin. Colloid Polym Sci 1992; 270: 1106-1115.
272. Feughelman M, Haly AR, Rigby BJ. A second order transition temperature in wool fibres in the post-yield region. Text Res J 1959; 29: 311-313.
273. Phillips DG. Detecting a glass transition in wool by differential scanning calorimetry. Text Res J 1985; 55: 171-174.
274. Dale FELI, MCDowall MA, Eyring H. The differential thermal analysis of natural and modified wool and mohair. Text Res J 1963; 33: 465-471.
275. Wortmann FJ, Rigby BJ, Phillips DG. Glass transition temperature of wool as a function of regain. Text Res J 1984; 54: 6-8.
276. Sakabe H, Ito H, Miyamoto T, Inagaki H. States of water sorbed on wool as studied by differential scanning calorimetry. Text Res J 1987; 57: 66-72.
277. Spei M, Holzem R. Thermoanalytical investigations of extended and annealed keratins. Colloid Polym Sci 1987; 265: 965-970.
278. Spei M, Hueskes R. Thermoanalytical investigations of modified fiber keratins. Melliand Textilber 1985; 66(10): 759-761.
279. Leroy F, Franbourg A, Levêque JL. Thermoanalytical investigations of reduced human hair. 8th Int Hair Sci Symp DWI (Kiel) (1992).
280. Spei M, Holzem R. Thermoanalytical determination of the relative helix content of keratins. Colloid Polym Sci 1989; 267: 549-551.
281. Spei M, Holzem R. Further thermoanalytical investigations of annealed keratins: the time and temperature dependence. Colloid Polym Sci 1990; 268: 630-635.
282. Wortmann FJ, Deutz H. Characterizing keratins using high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry. J Appl Polym Sci 1993; 48: 137-150.
283. Cao J. Melting study of the alpha-form crystallites in human hair keratin by DSC. Thermochim Acta 1999; 335: 5-9.
284. Gao T, Bedell A. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) study of hair damage and hair restructuring by protein derivatives. J Cosmet Sci 2001; 52: 332-333.
285. Wortmann FJ, Springob C, Sendelbach G. Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water. J Cosmet Sci 2002; 53: 219-228.
286. Baxter S. Electrical conduction of textiles. Trans Faraday Soc 1943; 39: 207-214.
287. Marsh MC, Earp K. The electrical resistance of wool fibres. Trans Faraday Soc 1933; 29: 173-193.
288. Murphy EJ, Walker AC. Conduction in textiles, part I: the dependence of the resistivity of cotton silk and wool on relative humidity and moisture content. J Phys Chem 1928; 32: 1761-1786.
289. Murphy EJ. Ionic conduction in keratin (wool). J Colloid Interf Sci 1976; 54(3): 400-408.
290. Algie JE. The variation of electrical resistance with strain of keratin fibers with constant water content. Text Res J 1964; 34: 273-274.
291. Levêque JL, Garson JC, Boudouris G. L’eau dans les kératines: étude par mesures de la conductibilité électrique. CR Acad Sci 1979; 288: 1679-1682.
292. Algie JE, Downes JG, Mackay BH. Electrical conduction in keratin. Text Res J 1960; 30: 432-434.
293. Algie JE. The effect of strain on the electrical resistance of keratin. Text Res J 1959; 29: 1-6.
294. Algie JE. Some dielectric properties of dry keratin. Kolloid zz Polym 1967; 223(1): 13-23.
295. Algie JE, Gamble RA. Dielectric properties of wool and horn containing absorbed water. Kolloid zz Polym 1973; 251: 554-562.
296. Windle JJ, Shaw TM. Dielectric properties of wool-water systems at 3000 and 9300 megacycles. J Chem Phys 1954; 22(10): 1752-1756.
297. Windle JJ, Shaw TM. Dielectric properties of wool-water systems, part II: 26000 megacycles. J Chem Phys 1956; 25(3): 435-439.
298. Algie JE. Some dielectric properties of wool. Kolloid zz Polym 1969; 234(2): 1069-1078.
299. Algie JE. Dielectric constant and conductance changes in wool fibers produced by step changes in the relative humidity. Text Res J 1964; 34: 477-486.
300. Levêque JL, Garson JC, Boudouris G. Depolarization thermal currents in keratin fibers. Text Res J 1974; 44: 504-505.
301. Levêque JL, Garson JC, Boudouris G. Water in keratin: study of the depolarization thermal current peak II. Biopolymers 1977; 16: 1725-1733.
302. Levêque JL, Garson JC, Boudouris G. Free water in hair keratin? A depolarization thermal-current study. Biopolymers 1981; 20: 2649-2656.