메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 113, Issue 3, 2008, Pages

Evolution of ocean wave statistics in shallow water: Refraction and diffraction over seafloor topography

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

COMPUTERIZED TOMOGRAPHY; DIFFERENTIAL EQUATIONS; DIFFRACTION; ENERGY TRANSFER; LIGHT SCATTERING; MODEL CHECKING; NONLINEAR EQUATIONS; OCEANOGRAPHY; REFRACTION; REGRESSION ANALYSIS; SCATTERING; SURFACE TOPOGRAPHY; SURFACE WAVES; TWO DIMENSIONAL; WATER WAVES; WAVE EQUATIONS;

EID: 69549121508     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2007JC004410     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (31)

References (63)
  • 1
    • 0031200745 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra
    • Agnon, Y., and A. Sheremet (1997Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra,J. Fluid Mech., 345, 79-99. (Pubitemid 127475520)
    • (1997) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.345 , pp. 79-99
    • Agnon, Y.1    Sheremet, A.2
  • 2
    • 0018030648 scopus 로고
    • The effects of randomness on the stability of two-dimensional surface wave trains
    • Alber, I. E. (1978), The effects of randomness on the stability of two-dimensional surface wave trains, Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 363, 525-546.
    • (1978) Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A , vol.363 , pp. 525-546
    • Alber, I.E.1
  • 3
    • 0037168904 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bragg scattering of random surface gravity waves by irregular seabed topography
    • Ardhuin, F., and T. H. C. Herbers (2002Bragg scattering of random surface gravity waves by irregular sea bed topography,J. FluidMech., 451, 1-33. (Pubitemid 34788959)
    • (2002) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.451 , pp. 1-33
    • Ardhuin, F.1    Herbers, T.H.C.2
  • 4
    • 0032170288 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone
    • Baldock, T. E., P. Holmes, S. Bunker, and P. Van Weert (1998), Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone, Coastal Eng., 34, 173-196.
    • (1998) Coastal Eng. , vol.34 , pp. 173-196
    • Baldock, T.E.1    Holmes, P.2    Bunker, S.3    Van Weert, P.4
  • 5
    • 84950608626 scopus 로고
    • Transport equations for the Wigner distribution function
    • Bastiaans, M. J. (1979), Transport equations for the Wigner distribution function, Opt. Acta, 26(10), 1265-1272.
    • (1979) Opt. Acta , vol.26 , Issue.10 , pp. 1265-1272
    • Bastiaans, M.J.1
  • 6
    • 0001272170 scopus 로고
    • Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves
    • Battjes, J. A., and M. J. F. Stive (1985), Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves,J. Geophys. Res., 90, 9159-9167.
    • (1985) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.90 , pp. 9159-9167
    • Battjes, J.A.1    Stive, M.J.F.2
  • 7
    • 0020167657 scopus 로고
    • Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves
    • Berkhoff, J. C. W., N. Booij, and A. C. Radder (1982), Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves, Coastal Eng., 20, 255-279.
    • (1982) Coastal Eng. , vol.20 , pp. 255-279
    • Berkhoff, J.C.W.1    Booij, N.2    Radder, A.C.3
  • 8
    • 0033560642 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 1. Model description and validation
    • Booij, N., R. C. Ris, and L. H. Holthuijsen (1999A third-generation wave model for coastal regions. Part 1, Model description and validation, J. Geophys. Res., 104, 7649-7666. (Pubitemid 29410061)
    • (1999) Journal of Geophysical Research C: Oceans , vol.104 , Issue.4 , pp. 7649-7666
    • Booij, N.1    Ris, R.C.2    Holthuijsen, L.H.3
  • 9
    • 10244251673 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Boussinesq evolution equations: Numerical efficiency, breaking and amplitude dispersion
    • DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.07.024, PII S0378383904000961
    • Bredmose, H., H. A. Schärfer, P. A. Madsen, and Y. Agnon (2004Boussinesq evolution equations: Numerical efficiency, breaking and amplitude dispersion, Coastal Eng., 51, 1117-1142. (Pubitemid 39621474)
    • (2004) Coastal Engineering , vol.51 , Issue.11-12 , pp. 1117-1142
    • Bredmose, H.1    Schaffer, H.A.2    Madsen, P.A.3
  • 10
    • 26844556114 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer
    • DOI 10.1016/j.euromechflu.2005.05.001, PII S0997754605000609
    • Bredmose, H., Y. Agnon, P. A. Madsen, and H. A. Schaffer (2005Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer, Eur. J. Mech. B/ Fluids, 24, 659-798. (Pubitemid 41455077)
    • (2005) European Journal of Mechanics, B/Fluids , vol.24 , Issue.6 , pp. 659-682
    • Bredmose, H.1    Agnon, Y.2    Madsen, P.A.3    Schaffer, H.A.4
  • 11
    • 85067780112 scopus 로고
    • General remarks concerning theories dealing with scattering and diffraction in random media
    • Bremmer, H. (1932), General remarks concerning theories dealing with scattering and diffraction in random media, Radio Sci., 40, 749-759.
    • (1932) Radio Sci. , vol.40 , pp. 749-759
    • Bremmer, H.1
  • 13
    • 0031448688 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water
    • Chen, Y. R., R. T. Guza, and S. Elgar (1997), Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water, J. Geophys. Res., 102, 25,035-25,046.
    • (1997) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.102 , pp. 25035-25046
    • Chen, Y.R.1    Guza, R.T.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 14
    • 0014777603 scopus 로고
    • On slowly varying Stokes waves
    • Chu, V. H., and C. C. Mei (1970), On slowly varying Stokes waves, J. Fluid Mech., 41, 873-887.
    • (1970) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.41 , pp. 873-887
    • Chu, V.H.1    Mei, C.C.2
  • 15
    • 0001924685 scopus 로고
    • Evolution of a random inhomogeneous field of nonlinear deep-water gravity waves
    • Crawford, D. R., P. G. Saffinan, and H. C. Yuen (1980), Evolution of a random inhomogeneous field of nonlinear deep-water gravity waves, Wave Motion, 2, 1-16.
    • (1980) Wave Motion , vol.2 , pp. 1-16
    • Crawford, D.R.1    Saffinan, P.G.2    Yuen, H.C.3
  • 16
    • 0024475757 scopus 로고
    • Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction. Part 2. Irregular bathymetry
    • Dalrymple, R. A., K. D. Suh, J. T. Kirby, and J. W. Chae (1989), Models for very wide-angle water waves and wave diffraction. Part 2. Irregular bathymetry, J. FluidMech., 201, 299-322.
    • (1989) J. FluidMech. , vol.201 , pp. 299-322
    • Dalrymple, R.A.1    Suh, K.D.2    Kirby, J.T.3    Chae, J.W.4
  • 18
    • 0033396703 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear waves
    • DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00021-6, PII S0378383999000216
    • Eldeberky, Y., and P. A. Madsen (1999Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly non-linear waves, Coastal Eng., 38, 1-24. (Pubitemid 30039661)
    • (1999) Coastal Engineering , vol.38 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-24
    • Eldeberky, Y.1    Madsen, P.A.2
  • 19
    • 84976180585 scopus 로고
    • Observations of bispectra of shoaling waves
    • Elgar, S., and R. T. Guza (1985), Observations of bispectra of shoaling waves,J. Fluid Mech., 161, 425-448.
    • (1985) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.161 , pp. 425-448
    • Elgar, S.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 20
    • 0028603770 scopus 로고
    • Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach
    • Elgar, S., T. H. C. Herbers, and R. T. Guza ( 1994), Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 7, 1503-1511.
    • (1994) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.7 , pp. 1503-1511
    • Elgar, S.1    Herbers, T.H.C.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 23
    • 0008310099 scopus 로고
    • Weak interaction theory of ocean waves
    • Academic, New York
    • Hasselmann, K. (1968), Weak interaction theory of ocean waves, in Basic Developments in Fluid Dynamics, pp. 117-182, Academic, New York.
    • (1968) Basic Developments in Fluid Dynamics , pp. 117-182
    • Hasselmann, K.1
  • 24
    • 0031405118 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach
    • Herbers, T. H. C., and M. C. Burton (1997), Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach, J. Geophys. Res., 102, 21, 101 -21,114.
    • (1997) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.102 , pp. 21101-21114
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Burton, M.C.2
  • 25
    • 0034488891 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Spectral energy balance of breaking waves within the surf zone
    • Herbers, T. H. C., N. R. Russnogle, and S. Elgar (2000), Spectral energy balance of breaking waves within the surf zone,J. Phys. Oceanogr., 30, 2723-2737.
    • (2000) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.30 , pp. 2723-2737
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Russnogle, N.R.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 26
    • 0038198876 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shoaling transformation of wave frequency-directional spectra
    • doi:10.1029/2001JC001304
    • Herbers, T. H. C., M. Orzech, S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza (2003), Shoaling transformation of wave frequency-directional spectra, J. Geophys. Res., 108(C1), 3013, doi:10.1029/2001JC001304.
    • (2003) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.108 , Issue.C1 , pp. 3013
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Orzech, M.2    Elgar, S.3    Guza, R.T.4
  • 27
    • 0037459351 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration
    • DOI 10.1126/science.1081448
    • Hoefel, F., and S. Elgar (2003Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration, Science, 299, 1885-1887. (Pubitemid 36358202)
    • (2003) Science , vol.299 , Issue.5614 , pp. 1885-1887
    • Hoefel, F.1    Elgar, S.2
  • 28
    • 0141749366 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves
    • Janssen, P. A. E. M. (2003), Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 33, 863-884.
    • (2003) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.33 , pp. 863-884
    • Janssen, P.A.E.M.1
  • 30
    • 69549139787 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ph.D. dissertation, Delft Univ, of Technol., Delft, Netherlands
    • Janssen, T. T. (2006), Nonlinear surface waves over topography, Ph.D. dissertation, Delft Univ, of Technol., Delft, Netherlands. (Available at http://repository.tadelft.nl/file/239157/200855).
    • (2006) Nonlinear Surface Waves Over Topography
    • Janssen, T.T.1
  • 31
    • 34548051583 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches
    • doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng. 2007.05.06
    • Janssen, T. T., and J. A. Battjes (2007), A note on wave energy dissipation over steep beaches, Coastal Eng., 54,711-716, doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng. 2007.05.06.
    • (2007) Coastal Eng. , vol.54 , pp. 711-716
    • Janssen, T.T.1    Battjes, J.A.2
  • 32
    • 33645342490 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography
    • Janssen, T. T., T. H. C. Herbers, and J. A. Battjes (2006), Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography, J. Fluid Mech., 552, 393-418.
    • (2006) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.552 , pp. 393-418
    • Janssen, T.T.1    Herbers, T.H.C.2    Battjes, J.A.3
  • 33
    • 0035282537 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Improvements of parabolic nonlinear dispersive wave model
    • DOI 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2001)127:2(113)
    • Kaihatu, J. M. (2001Improvement of parabolic nonlinear dispersive wave model, J. Wat. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 127, 113-121. (Pubitemid 32217911)
    • (2001) Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering , vol.127 , Issue.2 , pp. 113-121
    • Kaihatu, J.M.1
  • 34
    • 0029413338 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth
    • DOI 10.1063/1.868504
    • Kaihatu, J. M., and J. T. Kirby (1995Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids, 7, 1903-1914. (Pubitemid 26462992)
    • (1995) Physics of Fluids , vol.7 , Issue.8 , pp. 1903-1914
    • Kaihatu, J.M.1    Kirby, J.T.2
  • 36
    • 0030677019 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear, dispersive long waves in water of variable depth
    • edited by J. N. Hunt Comp. Mech. Publ., Boston
    • Kirby, J. T. (1995), Nonlinear, dispersive long waves in water of variable depth, in Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth, Adv. in Fluid Mech., vol.10, edited by J. N. Hunt pp. 55-125, Comp. Mech. Publ., Boston.
    • (1995) Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth, Adv. in Fluid Mech. , vol.10 , pp. 55-125
    • Kirby, J.T.1
  • 39
    • 0024620209 scopus 로고
    • Derivation of the third-order evolution equations for weakly nonlinear water waves propagating over uneven bottoms
    • Liu, P. L. F., and M. W. Dingemans (1989), Derivation of the third-order evolution equations for weakly nonlinear water waves propagating over uneven bottoms, Wave Motion, 11, 41-64.
    • (1989) Wave Motion , vol.11 , pp. 41-64
    • Liu, P.L.F.1    Dingemans, M.W.2
  • 40
    • 0002037267 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A review of Boussinesq-type equations for gravity waves
    • edited by P.-F. Liu, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
    • Madsen, P. A., and H. A. Schärfer (1999), A review of Boussinesq-type equations for gravity waves, in Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, vol.5, edited by P.-F. Liu, pp. 1 -94, World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
    • (1999) Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering , vol.5 , pp. 1-94
    • Madsen, P.A.1    Schärfer, H.A.2
  • 43
    • 0016103538 scopus 로고
    • Radiometry with sources of any state of coherence
    • Marchand, E. W., and E. Wolf (1974), Radiometry with sources of any state of coherence, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 64, 1219-1275.
    • (1974) J. Opt. Soc. Am. , vol.64 , pp. 1219-1275
    • Marchand, E.W.1    Wolf, E.2
  • 44
    • 0001236724 scopus 로고
    • Some topics in quantum statistics: The Wigner function and transport theory
    • Elsevier, New York
    • Mori, H., I. Oppenheim, and J. Ross (1962), Some topics in quantum statistics: The Wigner function and transport theory, in Studies in Statistical Mechanics, vol.1, pp. 213-298. Elsevier, New York.
    • (1962) Studies in Statistical Mechanics , vol.1 , pp. 213-298
    • Mori, H.1    Oppenheim, I.2    Ross, J.3
  • 46
    • 0026070841 scopus 로고
    • Comparison of spectral refraction and refraction-diffraction wave models
    • O'Reilly, W. C., and R. T. Guza (1991), Comparison of spectral refraction and refraction-diffraction wave models, J. Wat. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 117, 119-215.
    • (1991) J. Wat. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. , vol.117 , pp. 119-215
    • O'Reilly, W.C.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 47
    • 0000703956 scopus 로고
    • The diffraction theory of sea waves and the shelter afforded by breakwaters, Part i
    • Penney, W. G., and A. T. Price (1952), The diffraction theory of sea waves and the shelter afforded by breakwaters, Part I, Phil. Trans. R. Soc. London, 244, 236-253.
    • (1952) Phil. Trans. R. Soc. London , vol.244 , pp. 236-253
    • Penney, W.G.1    Price, A.T.2
  • 48
    • 9144246676 scopus 로고
    • Mathematische theorie der diffraktion
    • Sommerfeld, A. (1896), Mathematische theorie der diffraktion, Math. Ann., 47, 317-374.
    • (1896) Math. Ann. , vol.47 , pp. 317-374
    • Sommerfeld, A.1
  • 50
    • 0020205669 scopus 로고
    • Three-dimensional deep-water waves. Part 1. Experimentei measurement of skew and symmetric wave patterns
    • Su, M. Y. (1982), Three-dimensional deep-water waves. Part 1. Experimentei measurement of skew and symmetric wave patterns, J. Fluid Mech., 124, 73-108.
    • (1982) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.124 , pp. 73-108
    • Su, M.Y.1
  • 51
    • 0005400214 scopus 로고
    • An angular spectrum model for propagation of Stokes waves
    • Suh, K. D., R. A. Dalrymple, and J. T. Kirby (1990), An angular spectrum model for propagation of Stokes waves, J. Fluid Mech., 221, 205-232.
    • (1990) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.221 , pp. 205-232
    • Suh, K.D.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2    Kirby, J.T.3
  • 52
    • 84883491201 scopus 로고
    • The wam model - A third-generation ocean wave prediction model
    • The WAMDI Group
    • The WAMDI Group (1988), The wam model - a third-generation ocean wave prediction model, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 18, 1775-1810.
    • (1988) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.18 , pp. 1775-1810
  • 53
    • 0001046430 scopus 로고
    • A third-generation model for wind waves on slowly varying, unsteady and inhomogeneous depths and currents
    • Tolman, H. L. (1991), A third-generation model for wind waves on slowly varying, unsteady and inhomogeneous depths and currents, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 21, 782-797.
    • (1991) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.21 , pp. 782-797
    • Tolman, H.L.1
  • 54
    • 0001843298 scopus 로고
    • Théorie et applications de la notion de signal analytique
    • Ville, J. (1948), Théorie et applications de la notion de signal analytique, Cables Transm., 2A, 61-74.
    • (1948) Cables Transm. , vol.2 A , pp. 61-74
    • Ville, J.1
  • 55
    • 0024620157 scopus 로고
    • Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound
    • Vincent C. L., and M. J. Briggs (1989), Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound, J. Wat. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., 115, 269-284.
    • (1989) J. Wat. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. , vol.115 , pp. 269-284
    • Vincent, C.L.1    Briggs, M.J.2
  • 56
    • 0000572780 scopus 로고
    • Radiometry and coherence
    • Walther, A. (1968), Radiometry and coherence, J. Opt Soc. Am., 58, 12561259.
    • (1968) J. Opt Soc. Am. , vol.58 , pp. 12561259
    • Walther, A.1
  • 57
    • 0000273864 scopus 로고
    • Radiometry and coherence
    • Walther, A. (1973), Radiometry and coherence, J. Opt Soc. Am., 63, 16221623.
    • (1973) J. Opt Soc. Am. , vol.63 , pp. 16221623
    • Walther, A.1
  • 58
    • 0029343414 scopus 로고
    • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I. Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves
    • Wei, G., J. T. Kirby, S. T. Grilli, and R. Subramanya (1995), A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I. Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves, J. Fluid Mech., 294, 71-92.
    • (1995) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.294 , pp. 71-92
    • Wei, G.1    Kirby, J.T.2    Grilli, S.T.3    Subramanya, R.4
  • 59
    • 33745014742 scopus 로고
    • On the quantum correction for thermodynamic equilibrium
    • Wigner, E. (1932), On the quantum correction for thermodynamic equilibrium, Phys. Rev., 40, 749-759.
    • (1932) Phys. Rev. , vol.40 , pp. 749-759
    • Wigner, E.1
  • 60
    • 0000760091 scopus 로고
    • Quantum-mechanical distribution functions revisited
    • MIT Press, Cambridge, Mass
    • Wigner, E. (1971), Quantum-mechanical distribution functions revisited, in Perspectives in Quantum Theory, pp. 25-36, MIT Press, Cambridge, Mass.
    • (1971) Perspectives in Quantum Theory , pp. 25-36
    • Wigner, E.1
  • 61
    • 0016535485 scopus 로고
    • Energy transport in a nonlinear and inhomogeneous random gravity wave field
    • Willebrand, J. (1975), Energy transport in a nonlinear and inhomogeneous random gravity wave field, J. Fluid Mech., 70, 113-126.
    • (1975) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.70 , pp. 113-126
    • Willebrand, J.1
  • 62
    • 0017926394 scopus 로고
    • Coherence and radiometry
    • Wolf, E. (1978), Coherence and radiometry, J. Opt. Soc. Am., 68, 6-17.
    • (1978) J. Opt. Soc. Am. , vol.68 , pp. 6-17
    • Wolf, E.1
  • 63
    • 0019898426 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear dynamics of deep-water gravity waves
    • Yuen, H. C., and B. M. Lake (1975), Nonlinear dynamics of deep-water gravity waves, Adv. Appl. Mech., 22, 67-229.
    • (1975) Adv. Appl. Mech. , vol.22 , pp. 67-229
    • Yuen, H.C.1    Lake, B.M.2


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.