메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 108, Issue 1, 2003, Pages

Shoaling transformation of wave frequency-directional spectra

Author keywords

Beach; Ocean waves; Surf; Wave spectra

Indexed keywords

BOUSSINESQ EQUATION; ENERGY DISSIPATION; GRAVITY WAVE; NEARSHORE DYNAMICS; SURF ZONE; WAVE SPECTRUM;

EID: 0038198876     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2001jc001304     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (51)

References (37)
  • 1
    • 0031200745 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra
    • Agnon, Y., and A. Sheremet, Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra, J. Fluid Mech., 345, 79-99, 1997.
    • (1997) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.345 , pp. 79-99
    • Agnon, Y.1    Sheremet, A.2
  • 3
    • 0029729004 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Edge wave trapping and amplification on barred beaches
    • Bryan, K. R., and A. J. Bowen, Edge wave trapping and amplification on barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 101, 6543-6552, 1996.
    • (1996) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.101 , pp. 6543-6552
    • Bryan, K.R.1    Bowen, A.J.2
  • 6
    • 0031448688 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water
    • Chen, Y., R. T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water, J. Geophys. Res., 102, 25,035-25,046, 1997.
    • (1997) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.102 , pp. 25035-25046
    • Chen, Y.1    Guza, R.T.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 7
    • 0003801906 scopus 로고
    • Surface waves on water of variable depth
    • 99 pp., Scripps Inst. of Oceanogr., Univ. of California, La Jolla, Calif
    • Eckart, C., Surface waves on water of variable depth, Wave Rep. 100, 99 pp., Scripps Inst. of Oceanogr., Univ. of California, La Jolla, Calif., 1951.
    • (1951) Wave Rep. 100
    • Eckart, C.1
  • 8
    • 0029656652 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Spectral modeling of wave breaking: Application to Boussinesq equations
    • Eldeberky, Y., and J. A. Battjes, Spectral modeling of wave breaking: Application to Boussinesq equations. J. Geophys. Res., 101, 1253-1264, 1996.
    • (1996) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.101 , pp. 1253-1264
    • Eldeberky, Y.1    Battjes, J.A.2
  • 9
    • 84976180585 scopus 로고
    • Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves
    • Elgar, S., and R. T. Guza, Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech., 161, 425-448, 1985.
    • (1985) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.161 , pp. 425-448
    • Elgar, S.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 10
    • 17144434499 scopus 로고
    • Observations of nonlinear interactions in directionally spread shoaling surface gravity waves
    • Elgar, S., R. T. Guza, and M. H. Freilich, Observations of nonlinear interactions in directionally spread shoaling surface gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 98, 20,299-20,305, 1993.
    • (1993) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.98 , pp. 20299-20305
    • Elgar, S.1    Guza, R.T.2    Freilich, M.H.3
  • 11
    • 0028603770 scopus 로고
    • Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach
    • Elgar, S., T. H. C. Herbers, and R. T. Guza, Reflection of ocean surface gravity waves from a natural beach, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 24, 1503-1511, 1994.
    • (1994) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.24 , pp. 1503-1511
    • Elgar, S.1    Herbers, T.H.C.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 15
    • 0021423115 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves
    • Ser. A
    • Freilich, M. H., and R. T. Guza, Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 311, 1-41, 1984.
    • (1984) Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London , vol.311 , pp. 1-41
    • Freilich, M.H.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 16
    • 0000634087 scopus 로고
    • Observations of nonlinear effects in directional spectra of shoaling gravity waves
    • Freilich, M. H., R. T. Guza, and S. Elgar, Observations of nonlinear effects in directional spectra of shoaling gravity waves, J. Geophys. Res., 95, 9645-9656, 1990.
    • (1990) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.95 , pp. 9645-9656
    • Freilich, M.H.1    Guza, R.T.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 17
    • 0032519249 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach
    • Gallagher, E. L., S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza, Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 103, 3203-3215, 1998.
    • (1998) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.103 , pp. 3203-3215
    • Gallagher, E.L.1    Elgar, S.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 18
    • 2342508836 scopus 로고
    • On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, 1, General theory
    • Hasselmann, K., On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, J, General theory, J. Fluid Mech., 12, 481-500, 1962.
    • (1962) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.12 , pp. 481-500
    • Hasselmann, K.1
  • 19
    • 0001753757 scopus 로고
    • Estimation of directional wave spectra from multicomponent observations
    • Herbers, T. H. C., and R. T. Guza, Estimation of directional wave spectra from multicomponent observations, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 20, 1703-1724, 1990.
    • (1990) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.20 , pp. 1703-1724
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 20
    • 0031405118 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach
    • Herbers, T. H. C., and M. C. Burton, Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach, J. Geophys. Res., 102, 21,101-21,114, 1997.
    • (1997) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.102 , pp. 21101-21114
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Burton, M.C.2
  • 21
    • 0027009849 scopus 로고
    • Field observations of orbital velocities and pressure in weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves
    • Herbers, T. H. C., R. L. Lowe, and R. T. Guza, Field observations of orbital velocities and pressure in weakly nonlinear surface gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech., 245, 413-435, 1992.
    • (1992) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.245 , pp. 413-435
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Lowe, R.L.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 22
    • 0033560612 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore
    • Herbers, T. H. C., S. Elgar, and R. T. Guza, Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore, J. Geophys. Res., 104, 7683-7693, 1999.
    • (1999) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.104 , pp. 7683-7693
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Elgar, S.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 23
    • 0034488891 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Spectral energy balance of breaking waves within the surf zone
    • Herbers, T. H. C., N. R. Russnogle, and S. Elgar, Spectral energy balance of breaking waves within the surf zone, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 30, 2723-2737, 2000.
    • (2000) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.30 , pp. 2723-2737
    • Herbers, T.H.C.1    Russnogle, N.R.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 24
    • 84974138005 scopus 로고
    • Stochastic closure for nonlinear Rossby waves
    • Holloway, G., and M. C. Hendershott, Stochastic closure for nonlinear Rossby waves, J. Fluid Mech., 82, 747-765, 1977.
    • (1977) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.82 , pp. 747-765
    • Holloway, G.1    Hendershott, M.C.2
  • 25
    • 0029413338 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth
    • Kaihatu, J. M., and J. T. Kirby, Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth, Phys. Fluids, 7, 1903-1914, 1995.
    • (1995) Phys. Fluids , vol.7 , pp. 1903-1914
    • Kaihatu, J.M.1    Kirby, J.T.2
  • 26
    • 0004168443 scopus 로고
    • 6th ed., 738 pp., Cambridge Univ. Press, New York
    • Lamb, H., Hydrodynamics, 6th ed., 738 pp., Cambridge Univ. Press, New York, 1932.
    • (1932) Hydrodynamics
    • Lamb, H.1
  • 28
    • 0032417274 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear evolution of surface wave spectra on a beach
    • Norheim, C. A., T. H. C. Herbers, and S. Elgar, Nonlinear evolution of surface wave spectra on a beach, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 28, 1534-1551, 1998.
    • (1998) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.28 , pp. 1534-1551
    • Norheim, C.A.1    Herbers, T.H.C.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 29
    • 0014765361 scopus 로고
    • Analytical theories of turbulence
    • Orszag, S. A., Analytical theories of turbulence, J. Fluid Mech., 41, 363-386, 1970.
    • (1970) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.41 , pp. 363-386
    • Orszag, S.A.1
  • 30
    • 84958426983 scopus 로고
    • Long waves on a beach
    • Peregrine, D. H., Long waves on a beach, J. Fluid Mech., 27, 815-827, 1967.
    • (1967) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.27 , pp. 815-827
    • Peregrine, D.H.1
  • 31
    • 84974098014 scopus 로고
    • On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude, 1, the elementary interactions
    • Phillips, O. M., On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude, 1, The elementary interactions, J. Fluid Mech., 9, 193-217, 1960.
    • (1960) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.9 , pp. 193-217
    • Phillips, O.M.1
  • 32
    • 0027788993 scopus 로고
    • A Boussinesq model for wave breaking in shallow water
    • Schäffer, H. A., P. A. Madsen, and R. Deigaard, A Boussinesq model for wave breaking in shallow water, Coastal Eng., 20, 185-202, 1993.
    • (1993) Coastal Eng. , vol.20 , pp. 185-202
    • Schäffer, H.A.1    Madsen, P.A.2    Deigaard, R.3
  • 33
    • 0020971885 scopus 로고
    • Transformation of wave height distribution
    • Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza, Transformation of wave height distribution, J. Geophys. Res., 88, 5925-5938, 1983.
    • (1983) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.88 , pp. 5925-5938
    • Thornton, E.B.1    Guza, R.T.2
  • 34
    • 0002506245 scopus 로고
    • Edge waves on a sloping beach
    • Ser. A
    • Ursell, F., Edge waves on a sloping beach, Proc. R. Soc. London. Ser. A, 214, 79-97, 1952.
    • (1952) Proc. R. Soc. London , vol.214 , pp. 79-97
    • Ursell, F.1
  • 35
    • 84883491201 scopus 로고
    • The WAM model-a third generation ocean wave prediction model
    • Wamdi Group
    • WAMDI GROUP, The WAM Model-A Third Generation Ocean Wave Prediction Model, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 18, 1775-1810, 1988.
    • (1988) J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol.18 , pp. 1775-1810
  • 36
    • 0029343414 scopus 로고
    • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves, 1, Highly nonlinear unsteady waves
    • Wei, G., J. T. Kirby, S. T. Grilli, and R. Subramanya, A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves, 1, Highly nonlinear unsteady waves, J. Fluid Mech., 294, 71-92, 1995.
    • (1995) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.294 , pp. 71-92
    • Wei, G.1    Kirby, J.T.2    Grilli, S.T.3    Subramanya, R.4


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.