The science of cosmeceuticals

Expert Review of Dermatology

Volumn 1, Issue 3, 2006, Pages 379-389

  Monteiro, Erica de O ^a   Baumann, Leslie S ^b  

^a UNIVERSITY OF SÃO PAULO   (Brazil)

^b UNIVERSITY OF MIAMI   (United States)

Author keywords

cosmeceutical; cosmetic; photoaging; photodamaged; photoprotection; skin care; topic antioxidants; topic vitamin

Indexed keywords

EID: 52449122958     PISSN: 17469872     EISSN: 17469880     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1586/17469872.1.3.379     Document Type: Article

References (74)

1. Rokhsar CK, Lee S, Fitzpatrick RE. Review of photorejuvenation: devices, cosmeceuticals, or both? Dermatol. Surg. 9 (Pt 2), 1166–1178 (2005).
2. Kligman AM. Cosmetics. A dermatologist looks to the future: promises and problems. Dermatol. Clin. 4, 699–709 (2000).
3. Kligman AM. Topical treatments for photoaged skin. Separating the reality from the hype. Postgrad. Med. 102 (2), 115–118 (1997).
4. Kligman AM. The future of cosmeceuticals: an interview with Albert Kligman, MD, PhD. Interview by Zoe Diana Draelos. Dermatol Surg. 31 (7 Pt 2), 890–891 (2005).
5. Millikan LE. Cosmetology, cosmetics, cosmeceuticals: definitions and regulations. Clin. Dermatol. 19 (4), 371–374 (2001).
6. Greff JA. Regulation of cosmetics that are also drugs. Food Drug Law J. 51 (2), 243–272 (1996).
7. McNamara SH. FDA regulation of cosmeceuticals: U.S. cosmetic and drug regulations pertinent to the cosmeceutical issue. Cosmetics Toiletries 112, 41–45 (1997).
8. Trueb RM. The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Dermatology 202 (4), 275–282 (2001).
9. Ramos-e-Silva M, Carneiro SC. Cosmetics for the elderly. Clin. Dermatol. 19 (4), 413–423 (2001).
10. Kligman D. Cosmeceuticals. Dermatol. Clin. 18 (4), 609–615 (2000).
11. Harman D. The free radical theory of aging. Antioxid.Redox Signal. 5 (5), 557–561 (2003).
12. Baumann LS. A refresher on antioxidants. Skin Aller. News 35 (5) 31 (2004).
13. Samuel M, Brooke RC, Hollis S, Griffiths CE. Interventions for photodamaged skin. Cochrane Database Syst. Rev. 25 (1), CD001782 (2005).
14. Gilchrest BA. A review of skin ageing and its medical therapy. Br. J. Dermatol. 135, 867–875 (1996).
15. Olsen EA, Katz HI, Levine N et al. Tretinoin emollient cream: a new therapy for photodamaged skin. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 26 (2 Pt 1), 215–224 (1992).
16. Nyirady J, Bergfeld W, Ellis C et al. Tretinoin cream 0.02% for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a review of 2 double-blind clinical studies. Cutis 68 (2), 135–142 (2001).
17. Kang S, Bergfeld W, Gottlieb AB et al. Long-term efficacy and safety of tretinoin emollient cream 0.05% in the treatment of photodamaged facial skin: a two-year, randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 6 (4), 245–253.
18. Sefton J, Kligman AM, Kopper SC et al. Photodamage pilot study: a double-blind, vehicle-controlled study to assess the efficacy and safety of tazarotene 0.1% gel. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 43 (4), 656–663 (2000).
19. Gilchrest BA. Treatment of photodamage with topical tretinoin: an overview. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 36 (3 Pt 2), S27 –S36 (1997).
20. Kang S, Leyden JJ, Lowe NJ et al. Tazarotene cream for the treatment of facial photodamage: a multicenter, investigator-masked, randomized, vehicle-controlled, parallel comparison of 0.01%, 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1% tazarotene creams with 0.05% tretinoin emollient cream applied once daily for 24 weeks. Arch. Dermatol. 137, 1597–604 (2001).
21. Brogden RN, Goa KL. Adapalene. Drugs 53 (3), 511–518 (1997).
22. Bernard BA. Adapalene, a new chemical entity with retinoid activity. Skin Pharmacol. 6 (Suppl.1), 61–69 (1993).
23. Verschoore M, Poncet M, Czernielewski J, Sorba V, Clucas A. Adapalene 0.1% gel has low skin irritation potential. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 36, S104 –S109 (1997).
24. Clucas A, Verschoore M, Sorba V et al. Adapalene 0.1% gel is better tolerated than tretinoin 0.025% gel in acne patients. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 36, S116 –S118 (1997).
25. Khonsari H, Grandiere-Perez L, Caumes E. Scurvy, a re-emerging disease. Rev. Med. Intern. 26 (11), 885–890 (2005).
26. Colven RM, Pinnell SR. Topical vitamin C in aging. Clin. Dermatol. 14, 227–234 (1996).
27. Keller KL, Fenske NA. Uses of vitamins A, C, and E and related compounds in dermatology: a review. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 39, 611–625 (1998).
28. Bissett DL, Chatterjee R, Hannon DP. Photoprotective effect of superoxide-scavenging antioxidants against ultraviolet radiation-induced chronic skin damage in the hairless mouse. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 7 (2), 56–62 (1990).
29. Eberlein-Konig B, Placzek M, Przybilla B. Protective effect against sunburn of combined systemic ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and d-α-tocopherol (vitamin E). J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 38, 45–48 (1998).
30. Traikovich SS. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Arch. Otolaryngol. Head Neck Surg. 125 (10), 1091–1098 (1999).
31. Weber C, Podda M, Rallis M, Thiele JJ, Traber MG, Packer L. Efficacy of topically applied tocopherols and tocotrienols in protection of murine skin from oxidative damage induced by UV-irradiation. Free Rad. Biol. Med. 22, 761–769 (1997).
32. Jurkiewicz BA, Bissett DL, Buettner GR. Effect of topically applied tocopherol on ultraviolet radiation-mediated free radical damage in skin. J. Invest. Dermatol. 104, 484–488 (1995).
33. Keller KL, Fenske NA. Uses of vitamins A, C, and E and related compounds in dermatology: a review. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 39 (4 Pt 1), 611–625 (1998).
34. Baumann LS, Spencer J. The effects of topical vitamin E on the cosmetic appearance of scars. Dermatol. Surg. 25 (4), 311–315 (1999).
35. Matsumura T, Nakada T, Iijima M. Widespread contact dermatitis from tocopherol acetate. Contact Derm. 51 (4), 211–212 (2004).
36. Werninghaus K, Meydani M, Bhawan J, Margolis R, Blumberg JB, Gilchrest BA. Evaluation of the photoprotective effect of oral vitamin E supplementation. Arch. Dermatol. 130 (10), 1257–1261 (1994).
37. Werninghaus K, Handjani RM, Gilchrest BA. Protective effect of α-tocopherol in carrier liposomes on ultraviolet-mediated human epidermal cell damage in vitro. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 8 (6), 236–242 (1991).
38. Hoppe U, Bergemann J, Diembeck W et al. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors 9 (2–4), 371–378 (1999).
39. Podda M, Tritschler HJ, Ulrich H, Packer L. α-lipoic acid supplementation prevents symptoms of vitamin E deficiency. Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun. 204 (1), 98–104 (1994).
40. Ribaya-Mercado JD, Garmyn M, Gilchrest BA, Russell RM. Skin lycopene is destroyed preferentially over β-carotene during ultraviolet irradiation in humans. J. Nutr. 125 (7), 1854–1859 (1995).
41. Offord EA, Gautier JC, Avanti O et al. Photoprotective potential of lycopene, β-carotene, vitamin E, vitamin C and carnosic acid in UVA-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. Free Rad. Biol. Med. 32 (12), 1293–1303 (2002).
42. Draelos ZD. Botanical antioxidants. Cosmet. Dermatol. 16 (9), 46–49 (2003).
43. Draelos ZD. Topical anti-inflammatory agents. Cosmet. Dermatol. 16 (10), 41–42 (2003).
44. Khanna S, Roy S, Bagchi D, Bagchi M, Sen CK. Upregulation of oxidant-induced VEGF expression in cultured keratinocytes by a grape seed proanthocyanidin extract. Free Rad. Biol. Med. 31 (1), 38–42 (2001).
45. Bagchi D, Bagchi M, Stohs SJ et al. Free radicals and grape seed proanthocyanidin extract: importance in human health and disease prevention. Toxicology 148 (2–3), 187–197 (2000).
46. Bagchi D, Garg A, Krohn RL, Bagchi M, Tran MX, Stohs SJ. Oxygen free radical scavenging abilities of vitamins C and E, and a grape seed proanthocyanidin extract in vitro. Res. Commun. Mol. Pathol. Pharmacol. 95 (2), 179–189 (1997).
47. Katiyar SK, Ahmad N, Mukhtar H. Green tea and skin. Arch. Dermatol. 136 (8), 989–994 (2000).
48. Fitzpatrick RE. Endogenous growth factors as cosmeceuticals. Dermatol. Surg. 31, 827–831 (2005).
49. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Reversal of photodamage with topical growth factors: a pilot study. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther. 5, 25–34 (2003).
50. McCullough JL, Weinstein GD. Clinical study of safety and efficacy of using topical kinetin 0,1% (kinerase) to treat photodamaged skin. Cosmet. Dermatol. 15, 29–32 (2002).
51. Thornfeldt CR. Cosmeceuticals: separating fact from voodoo science. Skinmed. 4 (4), 214–220 (2005).
52. Lupo MP. Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol. Surg. 31 (7 Pt 2), 832–836 (2005).
53. Beitner H. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% α lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. Br. J. Dermatol. 149, 841–849 (2003).
54. Ghosh DK, Murthy UV. Antiaging benefits of a topical formulation containing coenzyme Q10: results of 2 clinical studies. Cosmet. Dermatol. 15, 55–60 (2002).
55. Bauza E, Dal Farra C, Berghi A et al. Date palm kernel extract exhibits antiaging properties and significantly reduces skin wrinkles. Int. J. Tissue React. 24, 131–136 (2002).
56. Kondo SJ. The role of cytokines in photoaging. J. Dermatol. Sci. 23 (Suppl. 1), S30 –S36 (2000).
57. Robinson L. Pentapeptide offers improvement in human photoaged facial skin. Poster 0179 presented at: 20th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris, France. July 1–5, (2002).
58. Draelos ZD. Sorting out all your hydroxy acid options. Skin Aging 6, 45–47 (1998).
59. Draelos ZD. Hydroxy acids for the treatment of aging skin. J. Geriatr. Dermatol. 5, 236–240 (1997).
60. Katsarabas AD. Pathogenesis and treatment of melasma. Cosmet. Dermatol. 15, 13–16 (2001).
61. Palumbo A, d’Ischia M, Misuraca G, Prota G. Mechanism of inhibition of melanogenesis by hydroquinone. Biochem. Biophys. Acta 1073 (1), 85–90 (1991).
62. Taylor SC, Torok H, Jones T et al. Efficacy and safety of a new triple-combination agent for the treatment of facial melasma. Cutis 72 (1), 67–72 (2003).
63. Torok HM, Jones T, Rich P, Smith S, Tschen E. Hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05%, fluocinolone acetonide 0.01%: a safe and efficacious 12-month treatment for melasma. Cutis 75 (1), 57–62 (2005).
64. Penneys NS. Ochronosis-like pigmentation from hydroquinone bleaching creams. Arch. Dermatol. 121, 1239–1249 (1985).
65. Garcia A, Fulton JE. The combination of glycolic acid and hydroquinone or kojic acid for the treatment of melasma and related conditions. Dermatol. Surg. 22, 443–447 (1996).
66. Edlich RF, Cox MJ, Becker DG et al. Revolutionary advances in sun-protective clothing–an essential step in eliminating skin cancer in our world. J. Eff. Med. Implants 14 (2), 95–106 (2004).
67. Lowe NJ. An overview of ultraviolet radiation, sunscreens, and photo-induced dermatoses. Dermatol. Clin. 24 (1), 9–17 (2006).
68. Pinnell SR, Fairhurst D, Gillies R et al. Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide. Dermatol. Surg. 26, 309–314 (2000).
69. Gonzalez E, Gonzalez S. Drug photosensitivity, idiopathic photodermatoses, and sunscreens. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 35, 871–885 (1996).
70. Chatelain E, Gabard B. Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a new UV broadband filter. Photochem. Photobiol. 74 (3), 401–406 (2001).
71. Chatelain E, Gabard B, Gelis C et al. Assessment of the skin photoprotective capacities of an organo-mineral broad-spectrum sunblock on two ex vivo skin models. Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed. 19 (5), 242–253 (2003).
72. Naylor M, Gasparro F. What you and your patients should know about sunscreens. Skin Aging 6, 44–50 (1998).
73. Ojoe E. Inovação em fotoproteção. Int. J. Pharm. Comp. 6 (6), 317–320 (2004).
74. Marinovic B. What is evidence-based dermatology? Acta Dermatovenerol. Croat. 13 (4), 252 (2005).