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Volumn 38, Issue 2-3, 2003, Pages 109-129

Ready-to-wear globalism: Mediating materials and Prada's GPS

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EID: 34249361759     PISSN: 00840416     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1086/421423     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (6)

References (59)
  • 1
    • 55549096329 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A fourth store designed by Rem Koolhaas and planned for San Francisco's Union Square district was cancelled in early
    • A fourth store designed by Rem Koolhaas and planned for San Francisco's Union Square district was cancelled in early 2003.
    • (2003)
  • 2
    • 26644453791 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • When Art Puts Down a Bet in a House of Games,
    • April 14
    • Herbert Muschamp, "When Art Puts Down a Bet in a House of Games," New York Times, April 14, 2002, pp. 29-32;
    • (2002) New York Times , pp. 29-32
    • Muschamp, H.1
  • 3
    • 84909291901 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Forget the Shoes, Prada's New Store Stocks Ideas,
    • December 16, sec. 9, p
    • Herbert Muschamp, "Forget the Shoes, Prada's New Store Stocks Ideas," New York Times, December 16, 2001, sec. 9, p. 1.
    • (2001) New York Times , pp. 1
    • Muschamp, H.1
  • 4
    • 55549092711 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rem Koolhaas and OMA Lead the Dutch into New Intriguing Turf
    • July
    • Michael Speaks, "Rem Koolhaas and OMA Lead the Dutch into New Intriguing Turf," Architectural Record 188, no. 7 (July 2000): 92.
    • (2000) Architectural Record , vol.188 , Issue.7 , pp. 92
    • Speaks, M.1
  • 5
    • 55549146755 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Waiting for Prada
    • April 1
    • Philip Nobel, "Waiting for Prada," Interior Design (April 1, 2002): 82.
    • (2002) Interior Design , pp. 82
    • Nobel, P.1
  • 6
    • 55549141111 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The figure is based on the estimate of a Prada Soho employee who often works at the doors counting customers. Using his estimate that on weekends the store attracts between 2,500 and 3,000 individuals each day, and assuming that Monday through Friday, total, the store attracts about the same as the combined weekend figure roughly 5,500, the store is attracting roughly 520,000 people a year. In the 2 years since the opening, this would be a little more than 1,000,000 individuals. This figure includes, of course, return shoppers, making the total number of consumers somewhat lower; Interview with author, August, 16, 2003
    • The figure is based on the estimate of a Prada Soho employee who often works at the doors counting customers. Using his estimate that on weekends the store attracts between 2,500 and 3,000 individuals each day, and assuming that Monday through Friday, total, the store attracts about the same as the combined weekend figure (roughly 5,500), the store is attracting roughly 520,000 people a year. In the 2 years since the opening, this would be a little more than 1,000,000 individuals. This figure includes, of course, return shoppers, making the total number of consumers somewhat lower; Interview with author, August, 16, 2003.
  • 7
    • 55549103295 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • It is necessary to note that research on this store was completed prior to and during November 2002. In-store observations were made during May and August 2003. Therefore, specific installations and materials in the store may be different at the time a reader confronts these ideas than they were when I originally wrote about them.
    • It is necessary to note that research on this store was completed prior to and during November 2002. In-store observations were made during May and August 2003. Therefore, specific installations and materials in the store may be different at the time a reader confronts these ideas than they were when I originally wrote about them.
  • 8
    • 55549083808 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Designer Stores, in Extra Large,
    • June 6
    • On luxury flagship stores, see "Designer Stores, in Extra Large," Wall Street Journal, June 6, 2001, p. B1.
    • (2001) Wall Street Journal
  • 9
    • 55549116286 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Two research assistants noted there appear to be few items for sale in the store. One, who knew nothing of the store before entering, stated the space seemed more a museum than a store; Author's field notes from Carolyn Kaiser (July 2002) and Neeraja Viswanathan (November 2002). My in-store research was conducted in May 2003 and August 14-17, 2003.
    • Two research assistants noted there appear to be few items for sale in the store. One, who knew nothing of the store before entering, stated the space seemed more a "museum" than a store; Author's field notes from Carolyn Kaiser (July 2002) and Neeraja Viswanathan (November 2002). My in-store research was conducted in May 2003 and August 14-17, 2003.
  • 11
    • 55549108324 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • as quoted in Anna McCarthy, Ambient Television: Visual Culture and Public Space (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2001), p. 118.
    • as quoted in Anna McCarthy, Ambient Television: Visual Culture and Public Space (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2001), p. 118.
  • 12
    • 1642423363 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances: Questing for Self and Community
    • S. Ratneshwar, David Glen Mick, and Cynthia Huffman, eds, London: Routledge
    • Eric J. Arnould and Linda L. Price, "Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances: Questing for Self and Community," in S. Ratneshwar, David Glen Mick, and Cynthia Huffman, eds., The Why of Consumption: Contemporary Perspectives on Consumer Motives, Goals, and Desires (London: Routledge, 2000), p. 142.
    • (2000) The Why of Consumption: Contemporary Perspectives on Consumer Motives, Goals, and Desires , pp. 142
    • Arnould, E.J.1    Price, L.L.2
  • 13
    • 55549104329 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • John Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge, A Future Perfect: The Challenge and Promise of Globalization (New York: Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2003), p. xix.
    • John Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge, A Future Perfect: The Challenge and Promise of Globalization (New York: Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2003), p. xix.
  • 15
    • 55549126232 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Authenticating acts were first codified by folklorist R. Handler, and authoritative performances by anthropologist R. D. Abrahams; see Arnould and Price, Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances, pp. 140-63.
    • Authenticating acts were first codified by folklorist R. Handler, and authoritative performances by anthropologist R. D. Abrahams; see Arnould and Price, "Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances," pp. 140-63.
  • 16
    • 55549116636 scopus 로고
    • According to William Leach, it was in department stores, not museums, where modern American art first gained a popular audience; see, New York: Vintage Books
    • According to William Leach, it was in department stores, not museums, where modern American art first gained a popular audience; see William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture (New York: Vintage Books, 1993), p. 136.
    • (1993) Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture , pp. 136
    • Leach, W.1
  • 18
    • 0004351640 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • For Wanamaker quote, see
    • For Wanamaker quote, see Leach, Land of Desire, p. 137,
    • Land of Desire , pp. 137
    • Leach1
  • 19
    • 55549121172 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • on Baby Day, see pp. 137, 180.
    • on "Baby Day," see pp. 137, 180.
  • 22
    • 55549100548 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sachs quoted from Designer Death Camp, an interview with Deborah Solomon from New York Times Magazine (March 10, 2002): 19.
    • Sachs quoted from "Designer Death Camp," an interview with Deborah Solomon from New York Times Magazine (March 10, 2002): 19.
  • 23
    • 55549097065 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Prada: Luxury Brand with World-Class Anxiety,
    • December 18
    • Guy Trebay and Ginia Bellafante, "Prada: Luxury Brand with World-Class Anxiety," New York Times, December 18, 2001, p. C14.
    • (2001) New York Times
    • Trebay, G.1    Bellafante, G.2
  • 24
    • 55549086435 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On Prada and Bertelli, see Trebay and Bellafante, Prada: Luxury Brand.
    • On Prada and Bertelli, see Trebay and Bellafante, "Prada: Luxury Brand."
  • 26
    • 55549142480 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • How Cool Is Rem?
    • January 29
    • and Cathleen McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?" Newsweek (January 29, 2002): 56-58.
    • (2002) Newsweek , pp. 56-58
    • McGuidian, C.1
  • 27
    • 55549094380 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Chuihua Judy Chung, Jeffrey Inaba, Rem Koolhaas, Sze Tsung Leong, eds., Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Cambridge: Harvard Design School, 2001);
    • Chuihua Judy Chung, Jeffrey Inaba, Rem Koolhaas, Sze Tsung Leong, eds., Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Cambridge: Harvard Design School, 2001);
  • 28
    • 55549098501 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • for the specific critic's quotation, see McGuidian, How Cool Is Rem? pp. 56-58.
    • for the specific critic's quotation, see McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?" pp. 56-58.
  • 29
    • 55549105009 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Yesterday, Prada; Tomorrow, the World,
    • On Koolhaas's flag, see, May 23
    • On Koolhaas's flag, see Chee Pearlman, 'Yesterday, Prada; Tomorrow, the World," New York Times, May 23, 2002, p. D11.
    • (2002) New York Times
    • Chee, P.1
  • 30
    • 55549085820 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the 1997 proposal, see McGuidian, How Cool Is Rem?
    • On the 1997 proposal, see McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?"
  • 33
    • 55549134600 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Prada A to Z
    • On Prada Universe and early collaboration, see, October
    • On "Prada Universe" and early collaboration, see Paul Makorsky, "Prada A to Z" Metropolis (October 2001): 94-99.
    • (2001) Metropolis , pp. 94-99
    • Makorsky, P.1
  • 34
    • 55549091675 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Koolhaas quoted in Guilt by Dissociation, Building Design (June 8, 2001): 18.
    • Koolhaas quoted in "Guilt by Dissociation," Building Design (June 8, 2001): 18.
  • 35
    • 55549109348 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Interview with Miuccia Prada, Prada, Design 360, CNN, July 27, 2003
    • Interview with Miuccia Prada, "Prada," Design 360, CNN, July 27, 2003.
  • 36
    • 55549132581 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rem Koolhaas, Prada (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001), n.p.
    • Rem Koolhaas, Prada (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001), n.p.
  • 37
    • 55549136350 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • For example, rural free delivery, introduced in 1896, brought goods more cheaply to areas outside urban centers; refrigeration in the 1920s reduced costs by eliminating the loss of perishable foods and dispelled the notion of seasonal foods; see Satterthwaite, Going Shopping, p. 172.
    • For example, rural free delivery, introduced in 1896, brought goods more cheaply to areas outside urban centers; refrigeration in the 1920s reduced costs by eliminating the loss of perishable foods and dispelled the notion of "seasonal" foods; see Satterthwaite, Going Shopping, p. 172.
  • 38
    • 55549084493 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The most crowded space was in the downstairs rack room, where the largest number of items for sale are displayed; In-store research, August 16, 2003.
    • The most crowded space was in the downstairs "rack" room, where the largest number of items for sale are displayed; In-store research, August 16, 2003.
  • 39
    • 55549101216 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the seating/display surface, see Specifications, Architecture (March 2002): 105-11.
    • On the seating/display surface, see "Specifications," Architecture (March 2002): 105-11.
  • 40
    • 55549141112 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • According to one employee, this separate sales space, to which there is an entrance not available to the public, is usually reserved for stars and large spenders who do not want to shop on the main floor; Author interview, August 16, 2003.
    • According to one employee, this separate sales space, to which there is an entrance not available to the public, is usually reserved for "stars" and large spenders who do not want to shop on the main floor; Author interview, August 16, 2003.
  • 41
    • 55549095950 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Author interview, August 16, 2003
    • Author interview, August 16, 2003.
  • 42
    • 55549105723 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the dressing room glass and magic mirror, see
    • On the dressing room glass and magic mirror, see Koolhaas, Prada.
    • Prada
    • Koolhaas1
  • 44
    • 55549140462 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • In-store research, August 16, 17
    • In-store research, August 16, 17, 2003.
    • (2003)
  • 46
    • 55549108323 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rem Koolhaas
    • p
    • "Project for the City" will be a study of China's Pearl River Delta and the infrastructure of Lagos, Nigeria; see Michael Speaks, "Rem Koolhaas," p. 92.
  • 47
    • 84936823918 scopus 로고
    • On the idea that goods can reanimate our lives, or render them more magical and resonant, see (for a historical account) Colin Campbell, New York: Oxford University Press
    • On the idea that goods can reanimate our lives, or render them more magical and resonant, see (for a historical account) Colin Campbell, The Romantic Ethic and the Spirit of Modern Consumerism (New York: Oxford University Press, 1987);
    • (1987) The Romantic Ethic and the Spirit of Modern Consumerism
  • 48
    • 55549125838 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • and (for a current perspective) Russell Belk, Güliz Ger, Søren Askegaard, The Missing Streetcar Named Desire, in Ratneshwar, Mick, and Huffman, The Why of Consumption, pp. 98-119.
    • and (for a current perspective) Russell Belk, Güliz Ger, Søren Askegaard, "The Missing Streetcar Named Desire," in Ratneshwar, Mick, and Huffman, The Why of Consumption, pp. 98-119.
  • 49
    • 55549129895 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • In-store research, August 16, 17
    • In-store research, August 16, 17, 2003.
    • (2003)
  • 50
    • 55549083458 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • ed, Milan: Fondazione Prada
    • Rem Koolhaas, ed., Projects for Prada: Part 1 (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001).
    • (2001) Projects for Prada: Part 1
  • 51
    • 55549097397 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • This was the peep show running when I visited the store in May 2003
    • This was the peep show running when I visited the store in May 2003.
  • 54
    • 0034365498 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Scott Koslow, Can the Truth Hurt' How Honest and Persuasive Advertising Can Unintentionally Lead to Increases in Consumer Skepticism, Journal of Consumer Affairs (Winter 2000): 2, online edition. The study reveals that young consumers frequently resist advertising messages because they are perceived as being communicated to sell them rather than to inform them.
    • Scott Koslow, "Can the Truth Hurt' How Honest and Persuasive Advertising Can Unintentionally Lead to Increases in Consumer Skepticism," Journal of Consumer Affairs (Winter 2000): 2, online edition. The study reveals that young consumers frequently resist advertising messages because they are perceived as being communicated "to sell them rather than to inform them."
  • 56
    • 55549126231 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Koolhaas, Projects for Prada, n.p., for quotation, see discussion of Triptych.
    • Koolhaas, Projects for Prada, n.p., for quotation, see discussion of Triptych.
  • 58
    • 55549140777 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • City of Angels
    • January 29
    • Gina Piccalo, "City of Angels," So Cal Living (January 29, 2001): 2.
    • (2001) So Cal Living , pp. 2
    • Piccalo, G.1


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