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1
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55549096329
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A fourth store designed by Rem Koolhaas and planned for San Francisco's Union Square district was cancelled in early
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A fourth store designed by Rem Koolhaas and planned for San Francisco's Union Square district was cancelled in early 2003.
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(2003)
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2
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26644453791
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When Art Puts Down a Bet in a House of Games,
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April 14
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Herbert Muschamp, "When Art Puts Down a Bet in a House of Games," New York Times, April 14, 2002, pp. 29-32;
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(2002)
New York Times
, pp. 29-32
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Muschamp, H.1
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3
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84909291901
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Forget the Shoes, Prada's New Store Stocks Ideas,
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December 16, sec. 9, p
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Herbert Muschamp, "Forget the Shoes, Prada's New Store Stocks Ideas," New York Times, December 16, 2001, sec. 9, p. 1.
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(2001)
New York Times
, pp. 1
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Muschamp, H.1
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4
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55549092711
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Rem Koolhaas and OMA Lead the Dutch into New Intriguing Turf
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July
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Michael Speaks, "Rem Koolhaas and OMA Lead the Dutch into New Intriguing Turf," Architectural Record 188, no. 7 (July 2000): 92.
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(2000)
Architectural Record
, vol.188
, Issue.7
, pp. 92
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Speaks, M.1
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5
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55549146755
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Waiting for Prada
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April 1
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Philip Nobel, "Waiting for Prada," Interior Design (April 1, 2002): 82.
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(2002)
Interior Design
, pp. 82
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Nobel, P.1
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55549141111
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The figure is based on the estimate of a Prada Soho employee who often works at the doors counting customers. Using his estimate that on weekends the store attracts between 2,500 and 3,000 individuals each day, and assuming that Monday through Friday, total, the store attracts about the same as the combined weekend figure roughly 5,500, the store is attracting roughly 520,000 people a year. In the 2 years since the opening, this would be a little more than 1,000,000 individuals. This figure includes, of course, return shoppers, making the total number of consumers somewhat lower; Interview with author, August, 16, 2003
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The figure is based on the estimate of a Prada Soho employee who often works at the doors counting customers. Using his estimate that on weekends the store attracts between 2,500 and 3,000 individuals each day, and assuming that Monday through Friday, total, the store attracts about the same as the combined weekend figure (roughly 5,500), the store is attracting roughly 520,000 people a year. In the 2 years since the opening, this would be a little more than 1,000,000 individuals. This figure includes, of course, return shoppers, making the total number of consumers somewhat lower; Interview with author, August, 16, 2003.
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7
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55549103295
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It is necessary to note that research on this store was completed prior to and during November 2002. In-store observations were made during May and August 2003. Therefore, specific installations and materials in the store may be different at the time a reader confronts these ideas than they were when I originally wrote about them.
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It is necessary to note that research on this store was completed prior to and during November 2002. In-store observations were made during May and August 2003. Therefore, specific installations and materials in the store may be different at the time a reader confronts these ideas than they were when I originally wrote about them.
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8
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55549083808
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Designer Stores, in Extra Large,
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June 6
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On luxury flagship stores, see "Designer Stores, in Extra Large," Wall Street Journal, June 6, 2001, p. B1.
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(2001)
Wall Street Journal
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9
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55549116286
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Two research assistants noted there appear to be few items for sale in the store. One, who knew nothing of the store before entering, stated the space seemed more a museum than a store; Author's field notes from Carolyn Kaiser (July 2002) and Neeraja Viswanathan (November 2002). My in-store research was conducted in May 2003 and August 14-17, 2003.
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Two research assistants noted there appear to be few items for sale in the store. One, who knew nothing of the store before entering, stated the space seemed more a "museum" than a store; Author's field notes from Carolyn Kaiser (July 2002) and Neeraja Viswanathan (November 2002). My in-store research was conducted in May 2003 and August 14-17, 2003.
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11
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55549108324
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as quoted in Anna McCarthy, Ambient Television: Visual Culture and Public Space (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2001), p. 118.
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as quoted in Anna McCarthy, Ambient Television: Visual Culture and Public Space (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2001), p. 118.
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12
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1642423363
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Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances: Questing for Self and Community
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S. Ratneshwar, David Glen Mick, and Cynthia Huffman, eds, London: Routledge
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Eric J. Arnould and Linda L. Price, "Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances: Questing for Self and Community," in S. Ratneshwar, David Glen Mick, and Cynthia Huffman, eds., The Why of Consumption: Contemporary Perspectives on Consumer Motives, Goals, and Desires (London: Routledge, 2000), p. 142.
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(2000)
The Why of Consumption: Contemporary Perspectives on Consumer Motives, Goals, and Desires
, pp. 142
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Arnould, E.J.1
Price, L.L.2
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13
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55549104329
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John Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge, A Future Perfect: The Challenge and Promise of Globalization (New York: Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2003), p. xix.
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John Micklethwait and Adrian Wooldridge, A Future Perfect: The Challenge and Promise of Globalization (New York: Random House Trade Paperbacks, 2003), p. xix.
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15
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55549126232
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Authenticating acts were first codified by folklorist R. Handler, and authoritative performances by anthropologist R. D. Abrahams; see Arnould and Price, Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances, pp. 140-63.
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Authenticating acts were first codified by folklorist R. Handler, and authoritative performances by anthropologist R. D. Abrahams; see Arnould and Price, "Authenticating Acts and Authoritative Performances," pp. 140-63.
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16
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55549116636
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According to William Leach, it was in department stores, not museums, where modern American art first gained a popular audience; see, New York: Vintage Books
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According to William Leach, it was in department stores, not museums, where modern American art first gained a popular audience; see William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture (New York: Vintage Books, 1993), p. 136.
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(1993)
Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture
, pp. 136
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Leach, W.1
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17
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0003576717
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On the ways department stores mediated the middle-class desires of working-class women, see, Urbana: University of Illinois Press
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On the ways department stores mediated the middle-class desires of working-class women, see Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1986).
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(1986)
Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers, and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940
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Porter Benson, S.1
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18
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0004351640
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For Wanamaker quote, see
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For Wanamaker quote, see Leach, Land of Desire, p. 137,
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Land of Desire
, pp. 137
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Leach1
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19
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55549121172
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on Baby Day, see pp. 137, 180.
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on "Baby Day," see pp. 137, 180.
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22
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55549100548
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Sachs quoted from Designer Death Camp, an interview with Deborah Solomon from New York Times Magazine (March 10, 2002): 19.
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Sachs quoted from "Designer Death Camp," an interview with Deborah Solomon from New York Times Magazine (March 10, 2002): 19.
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23
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55549097065
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Prada: Luxury Brand with World-Class Anxiety,
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December 18
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Guy Trebay and Ginia Bellafante, "Prada: Luxury Brand with World-Class Anxiety," New York Times, December 18, 2001, p. C14.
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(2001)
New York Times
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Trebay, G.1
Bellafante, G.2
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24
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55549086435
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On Prada and Bertelli, see Trebay and Bellafante, Prada: Luxury Brand.
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On Prada and Bertelli, see Trebay and Bellafante, "Prada: Luxury Brand."
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26
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55549142480
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How Cool Is Rem?
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January 29
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and Cathleen McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?" Newsweek (January 29, 2002): 56-58.
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(2002)
Newsweek
, pp. 56-58
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McGuidian, C.1
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27
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55549094380
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Chuihua Judy Chung, Jeffrey Inaba, Rem Koolhaas, Sze Tsung Leong, eds., Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Cambridge: Harvard Design School, 2001);
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Chuihua Judy Chung, Jeffrey Inaba, Rem Koolhaas, Sze Tsung Leong, eds., Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping (Cambridge: Harvard Design School, 2001);
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28
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55549098501
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for the specific critic's quotation, see McGuidian, How Cool Is Rem? pp. 56-58.
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for the specific critic's quotation, see McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?" pp. 56-58.
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29
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55549105009
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Yesterday, Prada; Tomorrow, the World,
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On Koolhaas's flag, see, May 23
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On Koolhaas's flag, see Chee Pearlman, 'Yesterday, Prada; Tomorrow, the World," New York Times, May 23, 2002, p. D11.
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(2002)
New York Times
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Chee, P.1
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30
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55549085820
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On the 1997 proposal, see McGuidian, How Cool Is Rem?
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On the 1997 proposal, see McGuidian, "How Cool Is Rem?"
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33
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55549134600
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Prada A to Z
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On Prada Universe and early collaboration, see, October
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On "Prada Universe" and early collaboration, see Paul Makorsky, "Prada A to Z" Metropolis (October 2001): 94-99.
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(2001)
Metropolis
, pp. 94-99
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Makorsky, P.1
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34
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55549091675
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Koolhaas quoted in Guilt by Dissociation, Building Design (June 8, 2001): 18.
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Koolhaas quoted in "Guilt by Dissociation," Building Design (June 8, 2001): 18.
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35
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55549109348
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Interview with Miuccia Prada, Prada, Design 360, CNN, July 27, 2003
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Interview with Miuccia Prada, "Prada," Design 360, CNN, July 27, 2003.
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36
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55549132581
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Rem Koolhaas, Prada (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001), n.p.
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Rem Koolhaas, Prada (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001), n.p.
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37
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55549136350
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For example, rural free delivery, introduced in 1896, brought goods more cheaply to areas outside urban centers; refrigeration in the 1920s reduced costs by eliminating the loss of perishable foods and dispelled the notion of seasonal foods; see Satterthwaite, Going Shopping, p. 172.
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For example, rural free delivery, introduced in 1896, brought goods more cheaply to areas outside urban centers; refrigeration in the 1920s reduced costs by eliminating the loss of perishable foods and dispelled the notion of "seasonal" foods; see Satterthwaite, Going Shopping, p. 172.
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38
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55549084493
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The most crowded space was in the downstairs rack room, where the largest number of items for sale are displayed; In-store research, August 16, 2003.
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The most crowded space was in the downstairs "rack" room, where the largest number of items for sale are displayed; In-store research, August 16, 2003.
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39
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55549101216
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On the seating/display surface, see Specifications, Architecture (March 2002): 105-11.
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On the seating/display surface, see "Specifications," Architecture (March 2002): 105-11.
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40
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55549141112
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According to one employee, this separate sales space, to which there is an entrance not available to the public, is usually reserved for stars and large spenders who do not want to shop on the main floor; Author interview, August 16, 2003.
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According to one employee, this separate sales space, to which there is an entrance not available to the public, is usually reserved for "stars" and large spenders who do not want to shop on the main floor; Author interview, August 16, 2003.
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41
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55549095950
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Author interview, August 16, 2003
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Author interview, August 16, 2003.
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42
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55549105723
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On the dressing room glass and magic mirror, see
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On the dressing room glass and magic mirror, see Koolhaas, Prada.
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Prada
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Koolhaas1
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44
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55549140462
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In-store research, August 16, 17
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In-store research, August 16, 17, 2003.
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(2003)
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46
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55549108323
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Rem Koolhaas
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p
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"Project for the City" will be a study of China's Pearl River Delta and the infrastructure of Lagos, Nigeria; see Michael Speaks, "Rem Koolhaas," p. 92.
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47
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84936823918
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On the idea that goods can reanimate our lives, or render them more magical and resonant, see (for a historical account) Colin Campbell, New York: Oxford University Press
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On the idea that goods can reanimate our lives, or render them more magical and resonant, see (for a historical account) Colin Campbell, The Romantic Ethic and the Spirit of Modern Consumerism (New York: Oxford University Press, 1987);
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(1987)
The Romantic Ethic and the Spirit of Modern Consumerism
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48
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55549125838
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and (for a current perspective) Russell Belk, Güliz Ger, Søren Askegaard, The Missing Streetcar Named Desire, in Ratneshwar, Mick, and Huffman, The Why of Consumption, pp. 98-119.
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and (for a current perspective) Russell Belk, Güliz Ger, Søren Askegaard, "The Missing Streetcar Named Desire," in Ratneshwar, Mick, and Huffman, The Why of Consumption, pp. 98-119.
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49
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55549129895
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In-store research, August 16, 17
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In-store research, August 16, 17, 2003.
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(2003)
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50
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55549083458
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ed, Milan: Fondazione Prada
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Rem Koolhaas, ed., Projects for Prada: Part 1 (Milan: Fondazione Prada, 2001).
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(2001)
Projects for Prada: Part 1
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51
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55549097397
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This was the peep show running when I visited the store in May 2003
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This was the peep show running when I visited the store in May 2003.
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52
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0001882399
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The World in a Shopping Mall
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ed, New York: Hill and Wang, see esp. p
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Margaret Crawford, "The World in a Shopping Mall," in Michael Sorkin, ed., Variations on a Theme Park: The New American City and the End of Public Space (New York: Hill and Wang, 1992), pp. 3-30, see esp. p. 26.
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(1992)
Variations on a Theme Park: The New American City and the End of Public Space
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Crawford, M.1
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0034365498
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Scott Koslow, Can the Truth Hurt' How Honest and Persuasive Advertising Can Unintentionally Lead to Increases in Consumer Skepticism, Journal of Consumer Affairs (Winter 2000): 2, online edition. The study reveals that young consumers frequently resist advertising messages because they are perceived as being communicated to sell them rather than to inform them.
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Scott Koslow, "Can the Truth Hurt' How Honest and Persuasive Advertising Can Unintentionally Lead to Increases in Consumer Skepticism," Journal of Consumer Affairs (Winter 2000): 2, online edition. The study reveals that young consumers frequently resist advertising messages because they are perceived as being communicated "to sell them rather than to inform them."
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56
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55549126231
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Koolhaas, Projects for Prada, n.p., for quotation, see discussion of Triptych.
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Koolhaas, Projects for Prada, n.p., for quotation, see discussion of Triptych.
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58
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55549140777
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City of Angels
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January 29
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Gina Piccalo, "City of Angels," So Cal Living (January 29, 2001): 2.
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(2001)
So Cal Living
, pp. 2
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Piccalo, G.1
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