Topical proteolytic enzymes affect epidermal and dermal properties

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Volumn 29, Issue 1, 2007, Pages 15-21

  Smith, W P ^a   Bishop, M ^b   Gillis, G ^b   Maibach, H ^c  

^a Dermac Inc   (United States)

^b Actifirm LLP   (United States)

^c UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA   (United States)

Author keywords

Dermis; Epidermis; Exfoliation; Stratum corneum

Indexed keywords

ASPARTIC PROTEINASE; CATHEPSIN D LIKE ENZYME; LACTIC ACID; UNCLASSIFIED DRUG;

ADULT; ARTICLE; CLINICAL TRIAL; CONTROLLED CLINICAL TRIAL; CONTROLLED STUDY; DERMIS; DESQUAMATION; DOUBLE BLIND PROCEDURE; ENZYME ACTIVITY; ENZYMOLOGY; EPIDERMIS; HUMAN; MOISTURE; NORMAL HUMAN; RANDOMIZED CONTROLLED TRIAL; REJUVENATION; SKIN FUNCTION; SKIN STRUCTURE; SKINFOLD THICKNESS; SURFACE PROPERTY; WRINKLE;

EID: 33846998662     PISSN: 01425463     EISSN: 14682494     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00354.x     Document Type: Article

References (29)

1. Lundstrom, A. and Engelrud, T. Stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme: a proteinase which may be generally present in the stratum corneum and with possible role in desquamation. Arch. Derm. Venereol. (Stoch) 71, 471-474 (1991).
2. Horikoshi, T., Igarashi, S., Uchiwa, H., Brysk, H. and Brysk, M.M. Role of endogenous cathepsin D-like and chymotrypsin-like proteolysis in human epidermal differentiation. Br. J. Dermatol. 141, 453-459 (1999).
3. Ekholm, I.E., Bratts, A. and Egelrud, T. Stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in normal epidermis: a missing link in the desquamation process? J. Invest. Dermatol. 114, 56-63 (2000).
4. Hikima, R., Igarashi, S., Ikeda, N. et al. Development of lip treatment on the basis of desquamation mechanism. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 26, 165 (2004).
5. Rippe, F., Schreiener, V. and Schwartz, H.J. The acidic mileu of the horny layer: new findings on the physiology and pathophysiology of skin pH. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 3, 261-272 (2002).
6. Bernard, D., Mehul, B., Thomas-Gillignon, A. et al. Analysis of proteins with caseinolytic acivity in a human stratum corneum extract revealed a yet unidentified cysteine protease and identified to the so-called "stratum corneum protease" a cathepsin I2. J. Invest. Dermatol. 120, 592-600 (2003).
7. Watkinson, A. Stratum corneum thiol protease (SCTP): a novel cysteine protease of late epidermal differentiation. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 291, 260-268 (1999).
8. Smith, W.P. The effects of 5% and 12% lactic acid on epidermal and dermal kin properties. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 109, 41-48 (1996).
9. Smith, W.P. Hydroxy acids and skin aging. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 93, 44-58 (1999).
10. Griffin, T.D., Murphy, G.F., Sueki, H. et al. Increased factor XIIIa transglutaminase expression in dermal dendrocytes after treatment with alpha-hydroxy acids: potential physiologic significance. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 34, 196-203 (1996).
11. Bernstein, E.F., Lee, J., Brown, D.B., Yu, R. and Van Scott, E. Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Dermatol. Surg. 27, 429-433 (2001).
12. Pirard, G.E., Kligman, A.M., Stoudemayer, T. and Leveque, J.L. Comparative effects of retinoic acid, glycolic acid and a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid on photodamaged epidermis. Dermatology 199, 50-53 (1999).
13. Kadi-EL, K.N., Rawlings, A.V., Feinberg, C. et al. Broad specificity alkaline proteases efficiently reduce the visual scaling associated with soap-induced xerosis. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 293, 500-507 (2001).
14. Smith, W.P. A comparative study of exfoliation with lactic acid and a mushroom derived acid protease. J. Invest. Dermatol. 126, 56 (2006).
15. Edwards, C. and Marks, R. Methods to determine desquamation rates. In: Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin (Serup, J., Jemec, G.B.E., eds), pp. 143-148. CRC Press, Boca Raton (1995).
16. Fthenakis, C., Maes, D. and Smith, W.P. In vivo assessment of skin elasticity using ballistometry. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 42, 211-222 (1991).
17. Pugliese, P.T. and Potts, J.R. Hardware and measuring principles: the Ballistometer. In: Bioengineering and the Skin: Skin Biomechanics (Elsner, P., Berardesca, E., Wilhelm, K-P., Maibach H., eds), pp. 147-160. CRC Press, Boca Raton (2001).
18. Agner, T. Ultrasound A-mode measurement of skin thickness. In: Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin (Serup, J., Jemec, G.B.E., eds.), pp. 289-293. CRC Press, Boca Raton (1995).
19. Barel, A. Product testing: moisturizers. In: Bioengineering and the Skin: Skin Biomechanics (Elsner P., Berardesca E., Wilhelm K-P., and Maibach H., eds.), pp. 241-256. CRC Press, Boca Raton (2001).
20. Packman, E. and Gans, E.H. Topical moisturizers: quantification of the effect on superficial facial lines. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 29, 79-90 (1978).
21. Hachem, J.P., Crumrine, D., Fluhr, J., Brown, B.E., Feingold, K.R. and Elias, P.M. pH directly regulates epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis, and stratum corneum integrity/cohesion. J. Inves. Dermatol. 121, 345-353 (2003).
22. Rawlings, A. Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 25, 63-85 (2003).
23. Roberts, D. and Marks, R. The determination of regional and age variations in the rate of desquamation: a comparison of four techniques. J. Invest. Dermatol. 74, 13-20 (1980).
24. Horikoshi, T., Matsumoto, M., Usuki, A. et al. Effects of glycolic acid on desquamation-regulating proteinases in human stratum corneum. Exp. Dermatol. 1, 34-40 (2005).
25. Karimipour, D.J., Kang, S., Johnson, T. et al. Microdermabrasion: a molecular analysis following a single treatment. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 52, 215-223 (2005).
26. Caubet, C., Jonca, N., Brattsand, M. et al. Degradation of Corneodesmosome Proteins by Two Serine Proteases of the Kallikrein Family SCTE/KLK5/and SCCE/KLK7/hK7. J. Invest. Dermatol. 122, 122 (2004).
27. Smith, W.P. Stratum corneum barrier integrity controls skin homeostasis. Int. J.Cosmet. Sci. 21, 99-106 (1999).
28. Proksch, E., Feingold, K.R., Man, M.Q. and Elias, P.M. Barrier function regulates epidermal DNA synthesis. J. Clin. Invest. 87, 1668-1673 (1991).
29. Wood, L.C., Jackson, S.M., Elias, P.M., Grunfield, C. and Feingold, K.R. Cutaneous barrier perturbation stimulates cytokine production in the epidermis of mice. J. Clin. Invest. 90, 482-487 (1992).