Between life giver and leisure: Identity negotiation through seafood in Turkey

International Journal of Middle East Studies

Volumn 38, Issue 3, 2006, Pages 395-415

  Knudsen, Ståle ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF BERGEN   (Norway)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

COMMODITY MARKET; CONSUMPTION BEHAVIOR; SOCIOECONOMIC CONDITIONS;

EURASIA; TURKEY;

EID: 33749169654     PISSN: 00207438     EISSN: 14716380     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1017/S002074380641240X     Document Type: Article

References (138)

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41. Ethnographic fieldwork started in 1990 and is continous. I have spent a total of approximately 14 months in the Black Sea region, most of it in the small town Çarşibaşi, and lived for several months in Ankara and Istanbul. Concerning sources on seafood consumption, popular and elitist approaches to seafood and restaurants are relatively well represented and, thus, accessible in the swelling Turkish literature on leisure and the like. For the Trabzon fish culture, I rely more heavily on my own field experiences.
42. Elliot, "Türk su ürünlerinin," 156.
43. http://www.aktuel.medya.com/10.11.98
44. Nevertheless, shark, skate, and eel are not commonly served in the restaurants, and dolphin and seal are regarded as inedible.
45. The monthly salary of teachers in the spring of 1998 was around U.S. $400. A newly employed industrial worker would have a salary just over U.S. $200.
46. In the winter of 2004, fishmongers in Beyoǧlu, Istanbul, sold large red mullet for U.S. $40/kg.
47. Elliot, "Türk su ürünlerinin," 191, 208, 210.
48. Of the fifty recipes (excluding sweets) included in an official publication on traditional meals from Trabzon, eleven recipes are with hamsi, whereas only two are with other kinds of fish and six are with red meat. Mehmet Volkan Canalioǧlu et al., Trabzon Yöresel Yemekleri (Trabzon: Trabzon Valiliǧi Il Turizm Müdürlügü, 1997).
49. During the late 1980s and early 1990s ecosystemic disturbances, primarily caused by an invader species (Mnemiopsis leiydi), resulted in dramatic decrease in hamsi catches. GEF-Black Sea Environmental Programme, "Black Sea Transboundary Diagnostic Analysis," (Istanbul: Programme Coordinating Unit, GEF Black Sea Environmental Programme, 1996).
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51. Reprinted in Murat Yüksel, Türk Edebiyatinda Hamsi, Trabzon Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüǧü Kültür ve Turizm Demeǧi Yayinlari 1 (Trabzon: Trabzon Kültür ve Turizm Müd., 1989), 25.
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60. P. Iddison, "A Fish Suq in the UAE Desert," paper presented at the Oxford University Symposium in 1997.
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63. Personal communication Anh Nga Longva
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65. Mary Douglas, Purity and Danger. An Analysis of the Concepts of Pollution and Taboo (London: Ark Paperbacks, 1966)
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69. This discussion is based on Mansel, Constantinople, 25, 170, 173
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91. Ibid., 144, 151-52.
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93. Quataert Ottoman Empire, 146, 155.
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95. Mansel, Constantinople, 290-96.
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98. See e.g., Sülker, ̇ Içki ve Toplum, 160.
99. Exertzoglu, "Cultural Uses of Consumption."
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107. Mansel, Constantinople, 424.
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111. Arkan, "Lokantalar."
112. The 17th century traveler Evliya Çelebi stressed the importance of hamsi in Trabzon. Hamamizade Ihsan, Hamsi-name. 2nd ed. (Istanbul: Yaylacik Matbaasi, 1972 [1928]), 14-15. Ihsan's book-length study and praise of this fish is evidence of the importance of hamsi during the early Republican era.
113. "Çok fakire kut-i can, çok hastaya derman olur." From the poem 'Muhammes' in Yüksel, Türk Edebiyatinda Hamsi, 43-46.
114. Abdullah Günel, 'Hamsi Bayrami,' ̇ Inan 17 (1945): 25-27,
115. reprinted in Yüksel, Türk Edebiyatinda Hamsi, 17
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117. Michael Meeker, A Nation of Empire. The Ottoman Legacy of Turkish Modernity (Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press, 2002).
118. Trabzon Vilayeti Salnamesi, vol. 8. trans. K. Emiroǧlu (Ankara: Trabzon ̇ Ili ve ̇ Ilçeleri Eǧitim, Kültür ve Sosyal Yardimlaşma Vakfi Yayinlan, 1995 [1293/1876]), 263.
119. See Yorgi Andreadis, Tamama. Pontus'un Yitik Kizi, Marenostrum Dizisi, translator Ragip Zarakolu (Istanbul: Belge Yayinlari, 1996[1993]).
120. Sülker, ̇ Içki ve Toplum, 152.
121. Cumhur Odabaşioǧlu, Trabzon 1869-1933 yillari yaşantisi (Ankara: Ilk-San Matbaasi, Ltd., Şti., n.d.), 171.
122. Elliot, "Türk su ürünlerinin," 183, 186.
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130. From 1,649,879 in 1990 to 4,700,343 in 2004, a rise of 184 percent (State Institute of Statistics 2004, http://www.die.gov.tr/TURKISH/ SONIST/TASIT/260704/TABLO3).
131. Navaro-Yashin, Faces of the State
132. White, Islamist Mobilization.
133. Zubaida and Tapper, "Introduction," Culinary Cultures;
134. Sidney W. Mintz and Christine M. Du Bois, ed., "The Anthropology of Food and Eating," Annual Review of Anthropology 31 (2002): 99-119.
135. Rouse and Hoskins, "Purity," 237.
136. Jenny B. White, "Islamic Chic," in Keyder, Istanbul, 77-91
137. Navaro-Yashin, Faces of the State.
138. M. Pinar Mercan, "Başbakan yemek öncesi künefe yer," Sabah Aktüel Pazar, 23 May 2004.