Laboratory measurements of limiting freak waves on currents

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 109, Issue 12, 2004, Pages 1-18

  Wu, Chin H ^a   Yao, Aifeng ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN MADISON   (United States)

Author keywords

Dispersive focusing; Freak waves; Hilbert Huang Transformation (HHT); Rogue waves; Time frequency analysis; Wave current interaction

Indexed keywords

WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION;

EID: 14744291369     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2004JC002612     Document Type: Article

References (76)

1. Alber, I. E. (1978), The effects of randomness on the stability of two-dimensional wavetrains, Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 363, 525-546.
2. Baldock, T. E., C. Swan, and P. H. Taylor (1996), A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 452, 649-676.
3. Banner, M. L., and O. M. Phillips (1974), On the incipient breaking of small scale waves, J. Fluid Mech., 65, 647-656.
4. Banner, M. L., and X. Tian (1998), On the determination of the onset of breaking for modulating surface gravity water waves, J. Fluid Mech., 367, 107-137.
5. Benjamin, T., and J. Feir (1967), The disintegration of wave trains in deep water, J. Fluid Mech., 27, 373-397.
6. Bonmarin, P. (1989), Geometric properties of deep water breaking waves, J. Fluid Mech., 209, 405-433.
7. Bonmarin, P., F. Bartholin, and A. Ramamonjiarisoa (1995), Action of an adverse current on the shape of deep-water surface-waves, Exp. Fluids, 18, 438-444.
8. Brown, M. G. (2001), Space-time surface gravity wave caustics: Structurally stable extreme wave events, Wave Motions, 33, 117-143.
9. Brown, M. G., and A. Jensen (2001), Experiments on focusing unidirectional water waves, J. Geophys. Res., 106(C8), 16,917-16,928.
10. Chawla, A., and J. T. Kirby (2002), Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points, J. Geophys. Res., 107(C7), 3067, doi:10.1029/2001JC001042.
11. Chen, H. H., and C. S. Liu (1976), Solitons in nonuniform media, Phys. Rev Lett., 37, 693-697.
12. Chien, H., C. C. Kao, and L. Z. H. Chuang (2002), On the characteristics of observed freak waves, Coastal Eng. J., 44(4), 301-319.
13. Cohen, L. (1995), Time Frequency Analysis, Prentice Hall, Old Tappan, N. J.
14. Dean, R. G. (1990), Freak waves: A possible explanation, in Water Wave Kinematics, edited by O. Torum and O. T. Gudmestad, pp. 609-612, Kluwer Acad., Norwell, Mass.
15. Draper, L. (1965), Freak ocean waves, Mar. Obs., 35, 193-195.
16. Dysthe, K. B. (2001), Refraction of gravity waves by weak current gradients, J. Fluid Mech., 442, 157-159.
17. Dysthe, K. B., and K. Trulsen (1999), Note on breather type solutions of the NLS as a model for freak-waves, Phys. Ser. T, 82, 48-52.
18. Forristall, G. Z. (1984), The distribution of measured and simulated wave heights as a function of spectral shape, J. Geophys. Res., 89 C6), 10,547-10,552.
19. Giovanangeli, J. P., C. Kharif, and E. Pelinovsky (2004), An experimental study on the effect of wind on the generation of freak waves (abstract), paper presented at First General Assembly, Eur. Geosci. Union, Katlenburg-Lindau, Germany.
20. Glauss, G. (2002), Task related wave groups for seakeeping tests or simulation of design storm waves, Appl. Ocean Res., 24, 147-161.
21. Griffin, O. M., R. D. Peltzer, H. T. Wang, and W. W. Schultz (1996), Kinematic and dynamic evolution of deep water breaking waves, J. Geophys. Res., 101(C7), 16,515-16,531.
22. Haver, S., and O. J. Andersen (2000), Freak waves: Rare realization of a typical population or typical realization of a rare population?, paper presented at 10th International Offshore Polar Engineering Conference, Int. Soc. of Offshore Polar Eng., Seattle, Wash.
23. Henderson, K. L., D. H. Peregrine, and J. W. Dold (1999), Unsteady water wave modulations: Fully nonlinear solutions and comparison with the nonlinear Schrödinger equation, Wave Motion, 29, 341-361.
24. Huang, N. E., D. T. Chen, C. C. Tung, and J. R. Smith (1972), Interactions between steady non-uniform currents and gravity waves with applications for current measurements, J. Phys. Oceanogr, 2, 420-431.
25. Huang, N. E., Z. Shen, S. Long, M. C. Wu, H. H. Shih, Q. Zheng, C. C. Tung, and H. H. Liu (1998), The empirical mode decomposition and the Hilbert spectrum for nonlinear and non-stationary time series analysis, Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 454, 903-995.
26. Huang, N. E., Z. Shen, and S. Long (1999), A new view of nonlinear water waves: The Hilbert spectrum, Ann. Rev. Fluid Mech., 31, 417-457.
27. Hwang, P. A., N. E. Huang, and D. W. Wang (2003), A note on analyzing nonlinear and non-stationary ocean wave data, Appl. Ocean Res., 25 187-193.
28. Janssen, P. A. E. M. (2003), Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr, 33, 863-884.
29. Johannessen, T. B., and C. Swan (2001), A laboratory study of the focusing of transient and directionally spread surface water waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 457, 971-1006.
30. Jonsson, I. G. (1990), Wave current interactions, in The Sea, Ocean Eng. Sci., vol. 9a, pp. 65-120, John Wiley, Hoboken, N. J.
31. Kharif, C., and E. Pelinovsky (2003), Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon, Eur. J. Mech. B Fluids, 22, 603-634.
32. Kharif, C., E. Pelinovsky, T. Talipova, and A. Slunyaev (2001), Focusing of nonlinear wave groups in deep water, JETP Lett., 73, 170-175.
33. Kjeldsen, S. P. (1984), Dangerous wave groups, Nor. Mar. Res., 12, 453-473.
34. Kjeldsen, S. P. (1990), Breaking waves, in Water Wave Kinematics, edited by O. Torumand and O. T. Gudmestad, pp. 453-473, Kluwer Acad., Norwell, Mass.
35. Kolaini, A., and M. P. Tulin (1995), Laboratory measurements of breaking inception and postbreaking dynamics of steep short-crested waves, Int. J. Offshore Polar Eng., 5, 212-218.
36. Komen, G. J., L. Cavaleri, M. Donelan, K. Hasselmann, S. Hasselmann, and P. A. E. M. Janssen (1994), Dynamics and Modeling of Ocean Waves, Cambridge Univ. Press, New York.
37. Kway, J. H. L., Y. S. Loh, and E. S. Chan (1998), Laboratory study of deepwater breaking waves, Ocean Eng., 25, 657-676.
38. Lai, R. J., S. R. Long, and N. E. Huang (1989), Laboratory studies of wave-current interaction: Kinematics of the strong interaction, J. Geophys. Res., 94(C11), 16,201-16,214.
39. Lake, B. M., H. C. Yuan, H. Rungaldier, and W. E. Ferguson (1977), Nonlinear deep-water waves: Theory and experiment: 2: Evolution of a continuous wave train, J. Fluid Mech., 83, 49-74.
40. Lavrenov, I. V. (1998), The wave energy concentration at the Agulhas current off South Africa, Nat. Hazards, 17, 117-127.
41. Liu, P. C., and G. S. Miller (1996), Wavelet transforms and ocean current data analysis, J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 13(5), 1090-1099.
42. Liu, P. C., and U. F. Pinho (2004), Freak waves-More frequent than rare!, Ann. Geophys., 22(5), 1839-1842.
43. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. (1984), Statistical properties of wave groups in a random sea state, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 312, 219-250.
44. Mallory, J. K. (1974), Abnormal waves on the south-east of South Africa, Inst. Hydrogr. Rev., 51, 89-129.
45. Mei, C. C. (1983), The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, John Wiley, Hoboken, N. J.
46. Mori, N. (2004), Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field, Ocean Eng., 31, 165-175.
47. Mori, N., and T. Yasuda (2002), Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains, Ocean Eng., 29, 1233-1245.
48. Mori, N., P. C. Liu, and T. Yasuda (2002), Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan, Ocean Eng., 29, 1399-1414.
49. Myrhaug, D., and S. P. Kjeldsen (1986), Steepness and asymmetry of extreme waves and the highest waves in deep-water, Ocean Eng., 13, 549-568.
50. Nepf, H. M., C. H. Wu, and E. S. Chan (1998), A comparison of two- and three-dimensional wave breaking, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 28, 1496-1510.
51. Ochi, M. K., and C. H. Tasi (1983), Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 13, 1482-1492.
52. Onorato, M., A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, and S. Bertone (2001), Freak waves in random ocean sea states, Phys. Rev. Lett., 86, 5831-5834.
53. Onorato, M., A. R. Osborne, and M. Serio (2002), Extreme wave events in directional, random oceanic sea states, Phys. Fluids, 14(4), L25-L28.
54. Osborne, A. R., M. Onorato, and M. Serio (2000), The nonlinear dynamics of rogue waves and holes in deep-water gravity wave trains, Phys. Lett. A, 275, 386-393.
55. Pelinovsky, E., T. Talipova, and C. Kharif (2000), Nonlinear-dispersive mechanism of the freak wave formation in shallow water, Physica D, 147(1-2), 83-94.
56. Peregrine, D. H. (1976), Interaction of water waves and currents, Adv. App. Mech., 16, 9-117.
57. Peterson, P., T. Soomere, J. Engelbrecht, and E. van Groesen (2003), Soliton interaction as a possible model for extreme waves in shallow water, Nonlinear Proc. Geophys., 10(6), 503-510.
58. Rapp, R. J., and W. K. Melville (1990), Laboratory measurements of dee water breaking waves, Philos. Trans. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 331, 735-780.
59. Rosengaus Moshinsky, M. (1987), Experimental study of wave-generated bedforms and resulting wave attenuation, Ph.D. thesis, pp. 71-94, Mass. Inst. of Technol., Cambridge, Mass.
60. Sand, S. E., N. E. O. Hansen, P. Klinting, O. T. Gudmestad, and M. J. Sterndorff (1990), Freak wave kinematics, in Water Wave Kinematics edited by A. Torum and O. T. Gudmestad, pp. 535-549, Kluwer Acad., Norwell, Mass.
61. Schlurmann, T. (2002), Spectral analysis of nonlinear water waves based on the Hilbert-Huang transformation, J. Offshore Mech. Arct. Eng., 124, 22-27.
62. Slunyaev, A., C. Kharif, E. Pelinovsky, and T. Talipova (2002), Nonlinear wave focusing on water of finite depth, Physica D, 173, 77-96.
63. Smith, R. (1976), Giant waves, J. Fluid Mech, 77, 417-431.
64. Soares, C. G., Z. Cherneva, and E. M. Antao (2004), Steepness and asymmetry of the largest waves in storm seas, Ocean Eng., 31, 1147-1167.
65. Stansberg, C. T. (1994), Effects from directionality and spectral bandwidth on nonlinear spatial modulations of deep-water surface gravity waves, in Proceedings of the 24th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, edited by B. Edge, pp. 579-593, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
66. Stansell, P., J. Wolfram, and S. Zachary (2003), Horizontal asymmetry and steepness distributions for wind-driven ocean waves from severe storms, Appl. Ocean Res., 25, 137-155.
67. Su, M. Y., M. Bergin, and R. Myrick (1982), Experiments on nonlinear instabilities and evolution of steep gravity wave, J. Fluid Mech., 124, 45-72.
68. Thomas, G. P., and G. Klopman (1997), Wave-current interactions in the nearshore region, in Gravity Waves in Water of Finite Depth, edited by J. N. Hunt, pp. 215-319, Comput. Mech., Billerica, Mass.
69. Trulsen, K., and K. B. Dysthe (1997), Freak waves-A three-dimensional wave simulation, in Proceedings of the 21st Symposium on Naval Hydrodynamics, pp. 550-560, Natl. Acad., Washington, D. C.
70. Tulin, M. P., and J. Li (1992), On the breaking of energetic waves, Int. J. Offshore Polar Eng., 2, 46-53.
71. Tulin, M. P., and T. Waseda (1999), Laboratory observations of wave group evolution, including breaking effects, J. Fluid Mech., 378, 197-232.
72. Veltcheva, A. D. (2002), Wave and group transformation by a Hilbert spectrum, Coastal Eng. J., 44, 283-300.
73. White, B. S., and B. Fornberg (1998), On the chance of freak waves at sea, J. Fluid Mech., 355, 113-138.
74. Wu, C. H., and H. Nepf (2002), Breaking criteria and energy losses for three-dimensional wave breaking, J. Geophys. Res., 107(C10), 3177, doi:10.1029/2001JC001077.
75. Yao, A., and C. H. Wu (2004), Energy dissipation of unsteady wave breaking on currents, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 34, 2288-2304.
76. Yasuda, T., and N. Mori (1997), Occurrence properties of giant freak waves in sea area around Japan, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 123(4), 209-213.