A laboratory study of the focusing of transient and directionally spread surface water waves

Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences

Volumn 457, Issue 2008, 2001, Pages 971-1006

  Johannessen, T B ^a,b   Swan, C ^a  

^a IMPERIAL COLLEGE LONDON   (United Kingdom)

^b Kværner Oil and Gas a s   (Norway)

Author keywords

Directional waves; Focused waves; Nonlinear waves; Wave groups; Wave nonlinearity

Indexed keywords

EID: 27744464235     PISSN: 13645021     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1098/rspa.2000.0702     Document Type: Article

References (41)

1. Baldock, T. E. & Swan, C. 1994 Numerical calculations of large transient water waves. Appl. Ocean Res. 16, 101-112.
2. Baldock, T. E., Swan, C. & Taylor, P. H. 1996 A laboratory study of nonlinear surface waves on water. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A 354, 649-676.
3. Belcher, S. E. & Vassilicos, J. C. 1997 Breaking waves and the equilibrium range of wind-wave spectra. J. Fluid Mech. 342, 377-401.
4. Boccotti, P. 1983 Some new results on statistical properties of wind waves. Appl. Ocean Res. 5, 134-140.
5. Dold, W. J. & Peregrine, D. H. 1984 Steep unsteady waves: an efficient computational scheme. In Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering (ASCE), Houston, TX, vol. 1, pp. 955-967.
6. Dysthe, K. B. 1979 Note on the modification of the nonlinear Schrödinger equation for application to deep water waves. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 369, 105-114.
7. Goda, Y. 1985 Random seas and design of maritime structures. Tokyo: Tokyo University Press.
8. Hammack, J. L. & Henderson, D. M. 1993 Resonant interactions among surface water waves. Ann. Rev. Fluid Mech. 25, 55-97.
9. Hasselmann, K. 1962 On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, part 1. General theory. J. Fluid Mech. 12, 481-500.
10. Hasselmann, K. 1963 On the nonlinear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, part 2. Conservation theorems, wave-particle anology, irreversibility. J. Fluid Mech. 15, 273-281.
11. Henderson, K. L., Peregrine, D. H. & Dold, J. W. 1999 Unsteady water wave modulations: fully nonlinear solutions and comparison with the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. Wave Motion 29, 341-361.
12. Johannessen, T. B. 1997 The effect of directionality on the nonlinear behaviour of extreme transient ocean waves. PhD thesis, Imperial College, University of London, UK.
13. Jonathan, P. & Taylor, P. H. 1995 Irregular, non-linear waves in a spread sea. In 14th Int. Conf. on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE), Copenhagen, June 1995.
14. Jonathan, P., Taylor, P. H. & Tromans, P. S. 1994 Storm waves in the northern North Sea. In Proc. 7th Int. Conf. on the Behaviour of Offshore Structures, Cambridge, MA, USA, vol. 2, pp. 481-494.
15. Lindgren, G. 1970 Some properties of a normal process near a local maximum. Ann. Math. Stat. 41, 1870-1883.
16. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1952 On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves. J. Marine Res. 11, 245-266.
17. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1974 Breaking waves in deep or shallow water. In Proc. 10th Conf. on Naval Hydrodynamics, Cambridge, MA, USA, pp. 597-605.
18. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1980 On the distribution of the heights of sea waves: some effects of nonlinearity and finite bandwith. J. Geophys. Res. 85, 1519-1523.
19. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1987 The propagation of short surface wave on longer gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 177, 293-306.
20. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. & Stewart, R. W. 1960 Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents. J. Fluid Mech. 8, 565-583.
21. Miller, S. J., Shemdin, O. R.. & Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1991 Laboratory measurements of the modulation of short wave slopes by long surface waves. J. Fluid Mech. 233, 389-404.
22. Peregrine, D. H. 1983 Wave jumps and caustics in the propagation of finite amplitude waves. J. Fluid Mech. 136, 435-452.
23. Peregrine, D. H., Skyner, D., Stiassnie, M. & Dodd, N. 1988 Nonlinear effects on focussed water waves. In Proc. 21st Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering (ASCE), Malaga, Spain, vol. 1, pp. 732-742.
24. Phillips, O. M. 1977 Dynamics of the upper ocean. Cambridge University Press.
25. Phillips, O. M. 1985 Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech. 156, 505-531.
26. Phillips, O. M., Gu, D. & Walsh, E. J. 1993a Expected structure of extreme waves in a Gaussian sea, part 1. Theory and SWADE buoy measurements. J. Phys. Ocean. 23, 992-1000.
27. Phillips, O. M., Gu, D. & Walsh, E. J. 1993b Expected structure of extreme waves in a Gaussian sea, part 2. SWADE scanning Radar Altimeter measurements. J. Phys. Ocean. 23, 2297-2309.
28. Rapp, R. J. & Melville, W. K. 1990 Laboratory measurements of deep water breaking waves. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. A 331, 735-800.
29. Roberts, A. J. 1983 Highly nonlinear short-crested water waves. J. Fluid Mech. 135, 301-321.
30. Rozario, J. B., Tromans, P. S., Taylor, P. H. & Efthymiou, M. 1993 Comparisons of loads predicted using 'NewWave' and other wave models with measurements on the Tern structure. In Wave kinematics and environmental forces, vol. 29, Advances in Underwater Technology, Ocean Science and Offshore Engineering, pp. 143-158. Dordrecht: Kluwer.
31. Salter, S. H. 1984 Physical modelling of directional seas. In Proc. Symp. Description and Modelling of Directional Seas, Technical University, Denmark, paper B-1.
32. Sand, S. E., Ottesen Hansen, N. E., Klinting, P., Gudmestad, O. T. & Sterndorff, M. J. 1990 Freak wave kinematics. In Water wave kinematics (ed. A. Tørum & O. Gudmestad), pp. 535-549. Dordrecht: Kluwer.
33. Schaffer, A. M. 1993 Laboratory wave generation correct to second-order: wave kinematics and environmental forces. Proc. Soc. Underwater Technol. 29, 115-139.
34. Sharma, J. N. & Dean, R. G. 1981 Second-order directional seas and associated wave forces. Soc. Petroleum Eng. J. 4, 129-140.
35. Skyner, D. 1996 A comparison of numerical predictions and experimental measurements of the internal kinematics of a deep-water plunging wave. J. Fluid Mech. 315, 51-64.
36. Stamnes, J. J., Løvhaugen, O. & Spjelkavik, B. 1983 Nonlinear focusing of surface waves by a lens-theory and experiment. J. Fluid Mech. 135, 71-94.
37. Stansberg, C. T. 1991 Extreme wave asymmetry in full scale and model scale experimental wave trains. In Proc. 10th Int. Conf. on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE), Stavanger, Norway, vol. 2, pp. 215-222.
38. Stansberg, C. T. 1994 Effects from directionality and spectral bandwidth on non-linear spatial modulations of deep-water surface gravity wave trains. In Proc. 24th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering (ASCE), Kobe, Japan, vol. 1, pp. 579-593.
39. Taylor, P. H. & Haagsma, I. J. 1994 Focusing of steep wave groups on deep water. In Proc. Int. Symp. Waves-Physical and Numerical Modelling (IAHR), Vancouver, Canada, vol. 2, pp. 862-870.
40. Tromans, P. S., Anaturk, A. & Hagemeijer, P. 1991 A new model for the kinematics of large ocean waves-application as a design wave. In Proc. 1st Int. Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf., Edinburgh, UK, vol. 3, pp. 64-71.
41. Whalin, R. W. 1972 Wave refraction theory in a convergence zone. In Proc. 13th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering (ASCE), Vancouver, Canada, vol. 1, pp. 451-470.