메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn , Issue , 2009, Pages 1-360

Coastal and estuarine processes

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords


EID: 85116539237     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
DOI: 10.1142/7114     Document Type: Book
Times cited : (127)

References (337)
  • 4
    • 34548657081 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models
    • Alsina, J M and T E Baldock (2007): Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models. Coastal Engineering, Vol 54, No 10, pp 765-769.
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , Issue.10 , pp. 765-769
    • Alsina, J.M.1    Baldock, T.E.2
  • 5
    • 0024222139 scopus 로고
    • Ripple generation under the combined influence of waves and currents on the Canadian continental shelf
    • Amos, C L, A J Bowen, D A Huntley and C F M Lewis (1988): Ripple generation under the combined influence of waves and currents on the Canadian continental shelf. Cant Shelf Res, Vol 8, No 10, pp 1129-1153.
    • (1988) Cant Shelf Res , vol.8 , Issue.10 , pp. 1129-1153
    • Amos, C.L.1    Bowen, A.J.2    Huntley, D.A.3    Lewis, C.F.M.4
  • 6
    • 0025262692 scopus 로고
    • Exploratory duct flow experiments on combined flow bed configurations and some implications for interpreting storm event stratification
    • Arnott, R Wand J B Southard (1990): Exploratory duct flow experiments on combined flow bed configurations and some implications for interpreting storm event stratification. J Sedimentary Petrology, Vol 60 No 2, pp 211-219.
    • (1990) J Sedimentary Petrology , vol.60 , Issue.2 , pp. 211-219
    • Arnott, R.W.1    Southard, J.B.2
  • 7
    • 0001304034 scopus 로고
    • The flow of cohesionless grains in fluids
    • Bagnold, R A (1956): The flow of cohesionless grains in fluids. Phil Trans Roy Soc Land Vol 249, pp 235-297.
    • (1956) Phil Trans Roy Soc Land , vol.249 , pp. 235-297
    • Bagnold, R.A.1
  • 8
    • 0001403301 scopus 로고
    • Auto-suspension of transported sediment; turbidity currents
    • Bagnold, R A (1962): Auto-suspension of transported sediment; turbidity currents. Proc Roy Soc Land, Vol A265, pp 315-319.
    • (1962) Proc Roy Soc Land , vol.A265 , pp. 315-319
    • Bagnold, R.A.1
  • 9
    • 0001730507 scopus 로고
    • Mechanics of marine sedimentation
    • N M Hill ed, Interscience N Y
    • Bagnold, R A (1963): Mechanics of marine sedimentation. In N M Hill ed The Sea Vol 3, Interscience N Y, pp 507-528.
    • (1963) The Sea , vol.3 , pp. 507-528
    • Bagnold, R.A.1
  • 10
    • 0019361199 scopus 로고
    • An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach
    • Bailard, J A (1981): An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. J Geophys Res Vol 86, No C11, pp 10938-10954.
    • (1981) J Geophys Res , vol.86 , Issue.C11 , pp. 10938-10954
    • Bailard, J.A.1
  • 12
    • 33845530132 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach
    • Baldock T E (2006): Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach. Proc Roy Soc Land A Vol 462, pp 1853-1876.
    • (2006) Proc Roy Soc Land A , vol.462 , pp. 1853-1876
    • Baldock, T.E.1
  • 13
    • 0032256080 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Seepage effects on sediment transport by waves and currents
    • Copenhagen, ASCE
    • Baldock, T E and P Holmes (1998): Seepage effects on sediment transport by waves and currents. Proc 26th Int Conf Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, ASCE, pp 3601-3614.
    • (1998) Proc 26th Int Conf Coastal Engineering , pp. 3601-3614
    • Baldock, T.E.1    Holmes, P.2
  • 15
    • 0035840115 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Measurements of diapycnal diffusivities in stratified fluids
    • Barry, M, G N Ivey, K B Winters and J Imberger (2001): Measurements of diapycnal diffusivities in stratified fluids. J Fluid Mech Vol 442, pp 267-291.
    • (2001) J Fluid Mech , vol.442 , pp. 267-291
    • Barry, M.1    Ivey, G.N.2    Winters, K.B.3    Imberger, J.4
  • 16
    • 0003945394 scopus 로고
    • Anchor Press/Doubleday, New York
    • Bascom, W (1980): Waves and Beaches. Anchor Press/Doubleday, New York.
    • (1980) Waves and Beaches
    • Bascom, W.1
  • 17
    • 0000650861 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Capillarity correction toperiodic solutions of the shallow flow approximation
    • edited by C B Pattiaratchi, A G U, Washington D C
    • Barry, D A, S J Barry and J-Y Parlange (1996): Capillarity correction toperiodic solutions of the shallow flow approximation. In Mixing in Estuaries and Coastal Seas, Coastal and Estuarine Studies, edited by C B Pattiaratchi, A G U, Washington D C, pp 496-510.
    • (1996) Mixing in Estuaries and Coastal Seas, Coastal and Estuarine Studies , pp. 496-510
    • Barry, D.A.1    Barry, S.J.2    Parlange, J.-Y.3
  • 20
    • 0035655591 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Cross shore distribution of longshore sediment transport: Comparison between predictive formulas and field measurements
    • Bayram, A, M Larson, H C Miller and N C Kraus (2001): Cross shore distribution of longshore sediment transport: Comparison between predictive formulas and field measurements. Coastal Engineering, Vol 44, No 2, pp 79-99.
    • (2001) Coastal Engineering , vol.44 , Issue.2 , pp. 79-99
    • Bayram, A.1    Larson, M.2    Miller, H.C.3    Kraus, N.C.4
  • 23
    • 0015280822 scopus 로고
    • Computation of combined refraction-diffraction
    • ASCE Reston V A
    • Berkhoff, J W C (1972): Computation of combined refraction-diffraction. Proc 13th Int Conf Coastal Eng, ASCE Reston V A, pp 471-490.
    • (1972) Proc 13th Int Conf Coastal Eng , pp. 471-490
    • Berkhoff, J.W.C.1
  • 27
    • 0028668311 scopus 로고
    • Suspended sediment load during an asymmetrical wave cycle over a plane bed
    • Black, K P (1994): Suspended sediment load during an asymmetrical wave cycle over a plane bed. Coastal Engineering Vol 23, pp 95-114.
    • (1994) Coastal Engineering , vol.23 , pp. 95-114
    • Black, K.P.1
  • 28
    • 0026614435 scopus 로고
    • Representing equilibrium beach profiles with an exponential expression
    • Bodge, K R (1992): Representing equilibrium beach profiles with an exponential expression. J Coastal Res, Vol 8, No 1, pp 47-55.
    • (1992) J Coastal Res , vol.8 , Issue.1 , pp. 47-55
    • Bodge, K.R.1
  • 29
    • 0023207369 scopus 로고
    • Time and bed averaged sediment concentrations under waves
    • Taipei, ASCE
    • Bosman, J J and H Steetzel (1986): Time and bed averaged sediment concentrations under waves. Proc 20th Int Conf Coastal Eng, Taipei, ASCE, pp 986-1000.
    • (1986) Proc 20th Int Conf Coastal Eng , pp. 986-1000
    • Bosman, J.J.1    Steetzel, H.2
  • 30
    • 0001864672 scopus 로고
    • Theorie des ondes et des remous qui se propagent Ie long d’uncanal rectangulaire horizontal, en communicant au liquide contenu dans ce canal des vitesses sensiblement pareilles de la surfaceau fond
    • Boussinesq, J (1872): Theorie des ondes et des remous qui se propagent Ie long d’uncanal rectangulaire horizontal, en communicant au liquide contenu dans ce canal des vitesses sensiblement pareilles de la surfaceau fond. J de mathematique pures et app/iquees, Deuzieme Serie Vol 17, pp 55-108.
    • (1872) J de mathematique pures et app/iquees, Deuzieme Serie , vol.17 , pp. 55-108
    • Boussinesq, J.1
  • 32
    • 39549099929 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Non-linear shallow water equation modelling for coastal engineering
    • ASCE
    • Broccini, M and N Dodd (2008): Non-linear shallow water equation modelling for coastal engineering. J Waterways Port and Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Vol 134, No 2, pp 104-120.
    • (2008) J Waterways Port and Coastal Engineering , vol.134 , Issue.2 , pp. 104-120
    • Broccini, M.1    Dodd, N.2
  • 33
    • 84872464546 scopus 로고
    • Elsevier, Developments in Geotechnical Engineering
    • Bruun, P (1968): Stability of Tidal Inlets. Elsevier, Developments in Geotechnical Engineering, Vol 23, 508pp.
    • (1968) Stability of Tidal Inlets , vol.23 , pp. 508
    • Bruun, P.1
  • 37
    • 85116544299 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Drag coefficient reduction at high wind speeds
    • C03024, doi: 10.1029/20051C0003114
    • Bye, J A T and A D Jenkins (2006): Drag coefficient reduction at high wind speeds. J Geophysical Res, Vol 11J, C03024, doi: 10.1029/20051C0003114.
    • (2006) J Geophysical Res , vol.11J
    • Bye, J.A.T.1    Jenkins, A.D.2
  • 38
    • 0038888070 scopus 로고
    • Field occurrence of induced multiple gravity waves
    • Byrne, R J (1969): Field occurrence of induced multiple gravity waves. J Geophys Res, Vol 74, No 10, pp 2590-2596.
    • (1969) J Geophys Res , vol.74 , Issue.10 , pp. 2590-2596
    • Byrne, R.J.1
  • 41
    • 84958444933 scopus 로고
    • Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
    • Carrier, G F and H P Greenspan (1958): Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J Fluid Mech Vol 4, pp 97-109.
    • (1958) J Fluid Mech , vol.4 , pp. 97-109
    • Carrier, G.F.1    Greenspan, H.P.2
  • 44
    • 1842661800 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Response of the salt-freshwater interface in a coastal aquifer to a wave-induced groundwater pulse: Field observations and modelling
    • Cartwright N, L Li and P Nielsen (2004): Response of the salt-freshwater interface in a coastal aquifer to a wave-induced groundwater pulse: field observations and modelling, Advances in Water Resources, Vol 27 No 3, pp 297-303.
    • (2004) Advances in Water Resources , vol.27 , Issue.3 , pp. 297-303
    • Cartwright, N.1    Li, L.2    Nielsen, P.3
  • 45
    • 34548584086 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Swashaquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach
    • C09035, doi: 1O.1029/20051C003149
    • Cartwright, N, T E Baldock, P Nielsen D-S Jeng and L Tao (2006): Swashaquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach. J Geophysical Res Vol 111, C09035, doi: 1O.1029/20051C003149.
    • (2006) J Geophysical Res , vol.111
    • Cartwright, N.1    Baldock, T.E.2    Nielsen, P.3    Jeng, D.-S.4    Tao, L.5
  • 46
    • 6444232717 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental observations of watertable waves in an unconfined aquifer with a sloping boundary
    • Cartwright N, Nielsen P and L Li (2004): Experimental observations of watertable waves in an unconfined aquifer with a sloping boundary, Advances in Water Resources Vol 27, pp 991-1004.
    • (2004) Advances in Water Resources , vol.27 , pp. 991-1004
    • Cartwright, N.1    Nielsen, P.2    Li, L.3
  • 47
    • 25844483738 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Influence of capillarity on a simple harmonic oscillating watertable: Sand column experiments and modeling
    • W08416
    • Cartwright N, P Nielsen and P Perrochet (2005): Influence of capillarity on a simple harmonic oscillating watertable: Sand column experiments and modeling. Water Resources Res, Vol 41, No 8 W08416.
    • (2005) Water Resources Res , vol.41 , Issue.8
    • Cartwright, N.1    Nielsen, P.2    Perrochet, P.3
  • 48
    • 0001510489 scopus 로고
    • Reynolds stresses under wind waves
    • Cavaleri, O and S Zecchetto (1987): Reynolds stresses under wind waves. J Geophysical Res Vol 92, No C2, pp 3894-3904.
    • (1987) J Geophysical Res , vol.92 C2 , pp. 3894-3904
    • Cavaleri, O.1    Zecchetto, S.2
  • 53
    • 34548303650 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modeling sand wave characteristics on the Belgian continental shelf and in the Calais-Dover Strait
    • Article Number: C06002
    • Cherlet, J, G Besio, P Blondeaux, V van Lancker, E Verfaillie and G Vittori (2007): Modeling sand wave characteristics on the Belgian continental shelf and in the Calais-Dover Strait. J Geophys Res Vol 112, No C6, Article Number: C06002.
    • (2007) J Geophys Res , vol.112 , Issue.C6
    • Cherlet, J.1    Besio, G.2    Blondeaux, P.3    van Lancker, V.4    Verfaillie, E.5    Vittori, G.6
  • 54
    • 0017267091 scopus 로고
    • Wave formed sedimentary structures-A conceptual model
    • Clifton, H E (1976): Wave formed sedimentary structures-A conceptual model. SEPM Special Publication No 24, pp 126-148.
    • (1976) SEPM Special Publication No 24 , pp. 126-148
    • Clifton, H.E.1
  • 55
    • 0000460081 scopus 로고
    • Flume studies of the sediment transfer coefficient
    • Coleman, N (1970): Flume studies of the sediment transfer coefficient. Water Resources Research, Vol 6 No 3, pp 801-809.
    • (1970) Water Resources Research , vol.6 , Issue.3 , pp. 801-809
    • Coleman, N.1
  • 56
    • 77649220852 scopus 로고
    • Field observations of the fluid-granular boundary layer flow under near breaking waves
    • Conley, D C and D L Inman (1992): Field observations of the fluid-granular boundary layer flow under near breaking waves. J Geophys Res Vol 97, No C6, pp 9631-9643.
    • (1992) J Geophys Res , vol.97 , Issue.C6 , pp. 9631-9643
    • Conley, D.C.1    Inman, D.L.2
  • 57
    • 0028482459 scopus 로고
    • Ventilated oscillatory boundary layers
    • Conley, D C and D L Inman (1994): Ventilated oscillatory boundary layers. J Fluid Mech Vol 273, pp 261-284.
    • (1994) J Fluid Mech , vol.273 , pp. 261-284
    • Conley, D.C.1    Inman, D.L.2
  • 58
    • 54749113750 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The effects of flow stratification by non-cohesive sediment on transport in high-energy wave-driven flows
    • Conley, D C, S Falchetti, I P Lohman and M Brocchini (2008): The effects of flow stratification by non-cohesive sediment on transport in high-energy wave-driven flows. J Fluid Mech Vol 610, pp 43-67.
    • (2008) J Fluid Mech , vol.610 , pp. 43-67
    • Conley, D.C.1    Falchetti, S.2    Lohman, I.P.3    Brocchini, M.4
  • 61
    • 0035504917 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Entrainment and turbulence in saline underflow in Lake Ogwara
    • Dallimore, C L, J Imberger and T Ishikawa (2001): Entrainment and turbulence in saline underflow in Lake Ogwara. J Hydr Eng, ASCE, Vol 127, No 11, pp 937-948.
    • (2001) J Hydr Eng, ASCE , vol.127 , Issue.11 , pp. 937-948
    • Dallimore, C.L.1    Imberger, J.2    Ishikawa, T.3
  • 63
    • 0027188105 scopus 로고
    • Gravity drainage: A new method of beach stabilisation through drainage of the watertable
    • Venice, ASCE
    • Davis, G A, D J Hanslow, K Hibbert and P Nielsen (1992): Gravity drainage: A new method of beach stabilisation through drainage of the watertable. Proc 23rd Int Con/Coastal Eng, Venice, ASCE, pp 1129-1141.
    • (1992) Proc 23rd Int Con/Coastal Eng , pp. 1129-1141
    • Davis, G.A.1    Hanslow, D.J.2    Hibbert, K.3    Nielsen, P.4
  • 64
    • 4744355083 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave-formed sediment ripples: Transient analysis of ripple spectral development
    • C07020
    • Davis, J P, D J Walker, M Townsend and I R Young (2004): Wave-formed sediment ripples: Transient analysis of ripple spectral development. J Geophys Res Vol 109, C07020.
    • (2004) J Geophys Res , vol.109
    • Davis, J.P.1    Walker, D.J.2    Townsend, M.3    Young, I.R.4
  • 66
    • 0025925585 scopus 로고
    • Equilibrium beach profiles: Principles and applications
    • Dean, R G (1991): Equilibrium beach profiles: Principles and applications. J Coastal Res, Vol 7, No 1, pp 53-84.
    • (1991) J Coastal Res , vol.7 , Issue.1 , pp. 53-84
    • Dean, R.G.1
  • 70
    • 0141507706 scopus 로고
    • University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor
    • Defant, A (1958): Ebb and Flow. University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor.
    • (1958) Ebb and Flow
    • Defant, A.1
  • 72
    • 0032215927 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Transport rate under irregular sheet flow conditions
    • Dibajnia, M and A Watanabe (1998): Transport rate under irregular sheet flow conditions. Coastal Engineering Vol 35, pp 167-183.
    • (1998) Coastal Engineering , vol.35 , pp. 167-183
    • Dibajnia, M.1    Watanabe, A.2
  • 73
    • 0026359753 scopus 로고
    • Velocity and concentrations in oscillatory sheet flow over beds of sediment
    • Dick J E and J F A Sleath (1991): Velocity and concentrations in oscillatory sheet flow over beds of sediment. J Fluid Mech Vol 223, pp 165-196.
    • (1991) J Fluid Mech , vol.223 , pp. 165-196
    • Dick, J.E.1    Sleath, J.F.A.2
  • 74
    • 0026491959 scopus 로고
    • Sediment transport in oscillatory sheet flow
    • Dick J E and J F A Sleath (1991): Sediment transport in oscillatory sheet flow. J Geophys Res Vol 97, No C4, pp 5745-5758.
    • (1991) J Geophys Res , vol.97 , Issue.C4 , pp. 5745-5758
    • Dick, J.E.1    Sleath, J.F.A.2
  • 78
    • 0037110293 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sheet flow dynamics under monocromatic non-breaking waves
    • doi: 10.1029/200IJC001045
    • Dohmen-Janssen, C M and D M Hanes (2002) Sheet flow dynamics under monocromatic non-breaking waves. J Geophys Res Vol 107, No C10, 3149, doi: 10.1029/200IJC001045.
    • (2002) J Geophys Res , vol.107 , Issue.C10 , pp. 3149
    • Dohmen-Janssen, C.M.1    Hanes, D.M.2
  • 79
    • 33947239344 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Geological and historical records of tsunami in Australia
    • Dominey-Howes, D (2007): Geological and historical records of tsunami in Australia. Marine Geology Vol 239, pp 99-123.
    • (2007) Marine Geology , vol.239 , pp. 99-123
    • Dominey-Howes, D.1
  • 80
    • 0001652929 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The air sea momentum flux in conditions of wind sea and swell
    • Donelan, M A, W M Drennan and K B Katsaros (1997): The air sea momentum flux in conditions of wind sea and swell. J Phys Oceanogr Vol 27, pp 2087-2099.
    • (1997) J Phys Oceanogr , vol.27 , pp. 2087-2099
    • Donelan, M.A.1    Drennan, W.M.2    Katsaros, K.B.3
  • 84
    • 67349149887 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • PhD thesis, The University of Queensland
    • Dunn, S L (2001): Wave setup in river entrances. PhD thesis, The University of Queensland, 175pp.
    • (2001) Wave setup in river entrances , pp. 175
    • Dunn, S.L.1
  • 87
    • 84981671270 scopus 로고
    • Big waves from polar lows
    • Dysthe, K B and A Harbitz (1987): Big waves from polar lows. Tellus, Vol 39A, pp 500-508.
    • (1987) Tellus , vol.39A , pp. 500-508
    • Dysthe, K.B.1    Harbitz, A.2
  • 88
    • 84872444253 scopus 로고
    • Rapports et Discussions, Solvay Conference, Bruxelles 1911, P Langevin and M de Broglie, Gauthier-Villars, Paris
    • Einstein, A (1912): In La Theorie du Rayonnement et les Quanta, Rapports et Discussions, Solvay Conference, Bruxelles 1911, P Langevin and M de Broglie, Gauthier-Villars, Paris, p 450.
    • (1912) La Theorie du Rayonnement et les Quanta , pp. 450
    • Einstein, A.1
  • 89
    • 0002221897 scopus 로고
    • On the influence of the Earth’s rotation on ocean currents
    • Stockholm
    • Ekman, V W (1905): On the influence of the Earth’s rotation on ocean currents. Arkiv f Matematik, Astronomi & Fysik, Vol 2 No 11, Stockholm.
    • (1905) Arkiv f Matematik, Astronomi & Fysik , vol.2 , Issue.11
    • Ekman, V.W.1
  • 90
    • 33749491826 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water
    • Elfrink, B, D M Hanes and B G Ruessink (2006): Parameterization and simulation of near bed orbital velocities under irregular waves in shallow water. Coastal Engineering, Vol 53, No 11, pp 915-927.
    • (2006) Coastal Engineering , vol.53 , Issue.11 , pp. 915-927
    • Elfrink, B.1    Hanes, D.M.2    Ruessink, B.G.3
  • 91
    • 0024196406 scopus 로고
    • Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves
    • Elgar, S, R T Guza and M H Freilich (1988): Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves. J Geophys Res Vol 93, No C8, pp 9261-9269.
    • (1988) J Geophys Res , vol.93 , Issue.C8 , pp. 9261-9269
    • Elgar, S.1    Guza, R.T.2    Freilich, M.H.3
  • 92
    • 0034898657 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nearshore sandbar migration
    • Elgar, S, E L Gallagher and R T Guza (2001): Nearshore sandbar migration. J Geophys Res Vol 106, No C3, pp 11623-11627.
    • (2001) J Geophys Res , vol.106 , Issue.C3 , pp. 11623-11627
    • Elgar, S.1    Gallagher, E.L.2    Guza, R.T.3
  • 94
    • 0036839853 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Geometry, migration and evolution of small scale bedforms generated by regular and irregular waves
    • Farachi, C and E Foti (2002): Geometry, migration and evolution of small scale bedforms generated by regular and irregular waves. Coastal Engineering Vol 47, pp 35-52.
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.47 , pp. 35-52
    • Farachi, C.1    Foti, E.2
  • 96
    • 2442676292 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Inverse modelling of onedimensional setup and alongshore current in the nearshore
    • Feddersen, F, R T Guza and S Elgar (2004): Inverse modelling of onedimensional setup and alongshore current in the nearshore. J Physical Oceanography Vol 34, pp 920-933.
    • (2004) J Physical Oceanography , vol.34 , pp. 920-933
    • Feddersen, F.1    Guza, R.T.2    Elgar, S.3
  • 97
    • 0024165285 scopus 로고
    • The numerical solution of steady water wave problems
    • Fenton, J D (1988): The numerical solution of steady water wave problems. Computers and Geosciences, Vol 14, No 3, pp 357-368.
    • (1988) Computers and Geosciences , vol.14 , Issue.3 , pp. 357-368
    • Fenton, J.D.1
  • 98
    • 0002388038 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear wave theories
    • Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York
    • Fenton, J D (1990): Nonlinear wave theories. The Sea Vol 9, Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York.
    • (1990) The Sea , vol.9
    • Fenton, J.D.1
  • 99
    • 12044252157 scopus 로고
    • Turbulent mixing in stratified fluids
    • Fernando, H J S (1991): Turbulent mixing in stratified fluids. Ann Rev Fluid Mech Vol 23, pp 455-493.
    • (1991) Ann Rev Fluid Mech , vol.23 , pp. 455-493
    • Fernando, H.J.S.1
  • 101
    • 0019384733 scopus 로고
    • Elevation and velocity measurements in laboratory shoaling waves
    • Flick, R E, R T Guza and D L Inman (1981): Elevation and velocity measurements in laboratory shoaling waves. J Geophys Res Vol 86, No C5, pp 4149-4160.
    • (1981) J Geophys Res , vol.86 , Issue.C5 , pp. 4149-4160
    • Flick, R.E.1    Guza, R.T.2    Inman, D.L.3
  • 102
    • 0021143519 scopus 로고
    • Turbulent boundary layers in wave current motion
    • Fredsoe, J (1984): Turbulent boundary layers in wave current motion. J Hydr Eng, ASCE, Vol 110, No 10, pp 1103-1120.
    • (1984) J Hydr Eng, ASCE , vol.110 , Issue.10 , pp. 1103-1120
    • Fredsoe, J.1
  • 104
  • 105
    • 0036734731 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mean rise rate of droplets in isotropic turbulence
    • Friedman, P D and J Katz (2002): Mean rise rate of droplets in isotropic turbulence. Physics of Fluids, Vol 14, No 9, pp 3059-3073.
    • (2002) Physics of Fluids , vol.14 , Issue.9 , pp. 3059-3073
    • Friedman, P.D.1    Katz, J.2
  • 106
  • 107
    • 0037442415 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A note on megaripples in the surf zone. Evidence for their relation to steady flow dunes
    • Gallagher, E L (2003): A note on megaripples in the surf zone. Evidence for their relation to steady flow dunes. Marine Geology Vol 193, pp 171-176.
    • (2003) Marine Geology , vol.193 , pp. 171-176
    • Gallagher, E.L.1
  • 108
    • 0032500034 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Megaripple migration in a natural surf zone
    • Gallagher, E L, S Elgar and E B Thornton (1998): Megaripple migration in a natural surf zone. Nature Vol 394, pp 165-168.
    • (1998) Nature , vol.394 , pp. 165-168
    • Gallagher, E.L.1    Elgar, S.2    Thornton, E.B.3
  • 110
    • 0024175837 scopus 로고
    • On the method of selecting design wave height
    • ASCE
    • Goda, Y (1988): On the method of selecting design wave height. Proc 21st Int ConfCoastal Eng, Malaga, ASCE, pp 899-913.
    • (1988) Proc 21st Int ConfCoastal Eng, Malaga , pp. 899-913
    • Goda, Y.1
  • 111
    • 15844411267 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave generated flow on coral reefs-an analysis for 2-dimensional horizontal reef tops with steep faces
    • Gourlay, M Rand G Colleter (2005): Wave generated flow on coral reefs-an analysis for 2-dimensional horizontal reef tops with steep faces. Coastal Engineering, Vol 52, No 4, pp 353-388.
    • (2005) Coastal Engineering , vol.52 , Issue.4 , pp. 353-388
    • Gourlay, M.R.1    Colleter, G.2
  • 112
    • 0036435484 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Suspension flows in open channels; experimental study
    • Graf, W Hand M Cellino (2002): Suspension flows in open channels; experimental study. Hydraulic Res, Vol 40, No 4, pp 435-447.
    • (2002) Hydraulic Res , vol.40 , Issue.4 , pp. 435-447
    • Graf, W.H.1    Cellino, M.2
  • 113
    • 0033102297 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Transport of fine sand by current and waves, Part II: Breaking waves over barred profile with ripples
    • Grassmeier, B T and L C van Rijn (1999): Transport of fine sand by current and waves, Part II: Breaking waves over barred profile with ripples. J Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng. Vol 125, No 2, pp 71-79.
    • (1999) J Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng. , vol.125 , Issue.2 , pp. 71-79
    • Grassmeier, B.T.1    van Rijn, L.C.2
  • 114
    • 0002266184 scopus 로고
    • Studies in soil physics 1. The flow of air and water through soils
    • Green, W Hand G A Ampt (1911): Studies in soil physics 1. The flow of air and water through soils. J Agric Sci, Vol IV, No I, pp 1-24.
    • (1911) J Agric Sci , vol.4 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-24
    • Green, W.H.1    Ampt, G.A.2
  • 115
    • 84956616989 scopus 로고
    • Diapycnal mixing in the thermocline: A review
    • Gregg, M C (1987): Diapycnal mixing in the thermocline: A review. J Geophys Res Vol 92, C5, pp 5249-5286.
    • (1987) J Geophys Res , vol.92 , Issue.C5 , pp. 5249-5286
    • Gregg, M.C.1
  • 116
    • 37749037071 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Generation of solitary waves by transcritical flow over a step
    • Grimshaw, R H J, D-H Zhang and K W Chow (2007): Generation of solitary waves by transcritical flow over a step. J Fluid Mech Vol 587, pp 235-254.
    • (2007) J Fluid Mech , vol.587 , pp. 235-254
    • Grimshaw, R.H.J.1    Zhang, D.-H.2    Chow, K.W.3
  • 117
    • 33947254937 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The influence of seaward boundary conditions on swash zone hydrodynamics
    • Guard P A, and T E Baldock (2007): The influence of seaward boundary conditions on swash zone hydrodynamics. Coastal Engineering, Vol 54, No 4, pp 321-331.
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , Issue.4 , pp. 321-331
    • Guard, P.A.1    Baldock, T.E.2
  • 118
    • 0342933245 scopus 로고
    • Elements of cohesive sediment deposition, consolidation and erosion
    • M B Abbott and A Price ed (1994), E & F N Spon
    • Hamm, Land C Migniot (1994): Elements of cohesive sediment deposition, consolidation and erosion. In M B Abbott and A Price ed (1994): Coastal Estuarial and Harbour Engineers ' Reference Book. E & F N Spon, pp 93-106.
    • (1994) Coastal Estuarial and Harbour Engineers ' Reference Book , pp. 93-106
    • Hamm, L.1    Migniot, C.2
  • 119
    • 0029217196 scopus 로고
    • Wave overtopping and sediment transport over dunes
    • Kobe, ASCE
    • Hancock, M Wand N Kobayashi (1994): Wave overtopping and sediment transport over dunes. Froc 24th lnt Conf Coastal Eng, Kobe, ASCE, pp 2028-2042.
    • (1994) Froc 24th lnt Conf Coastal Eng , pp. 2028-2042
    • Hancock, M.W.1    Kobayashi, N.2
  • 120
    • 0345088375 scopus 로고
    • The structure of events of intermittent suspension of sand due to shoaling waves
    • John Wiley & Sons
    • Hanes, D M (1990): The structure of events of intermittent suspension of sand due to shoaling waves, The Sea Vol 9, John Wiley & Sons, pp 941-952.
    • (1990) The Sea , vol.9 , pp. 941-952
    • Hanes, D.M.1
  • 121
    • 0022200936 scopus 로고
    • A granular fluid model for steady, intense bedload transport
    • Hanes, D M and A J Bowen (1985): A granular fluid model for steady, intense bedload transport. J Geophys Res Vol 90, No C5, pp 9149-9158.
    • (1985) J Geophys Res , vol.90 , Issue.C5 , pp. 9149-9158
    • Hanes, D.M.1    Bowen, A.J.2
  • 122
    • 0010470170 scopus 로고
    • Shoreline setup on natural beaches
    • Special Issue 15
    • Hanslow, D J and P Nielsen (1993): Shoreline setup on natural beaches. J Coastal Res, Special Issue 15, pp 1-10.
    • (1993) J Coastal Res , pp. 1-10
    • Hanslow, D.J.1    Nielsen, P.2
  • 124
    • 0028666093 scopus 로고
    • Rotary sidescan images of nearshore bedform evolution during a storm
    • Hay, A E and D J Wilson (1994): Rotary sidescan images of nearshore bedform evolution during a storm. Marine Geology Vol 119, pp 57-65.
    • (1994) Marine Geology , vol.119 , pp. 57-65
    • Hay, A.E.1    Wilson, D.J.2
  • 127
    • 0009663964 scopus 로고
    • Long term wave statistics
    • Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York
    • Hogben, N (1990): Long term wave statistics. The Sea Vol 9, Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York.
    • (1990) The Sea , vol.9
    • Hogben, N.1
  • 131
    • 34547777300 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Hydrokinematic regions within the swash zone
    • Hughes, M G and A S Moseley (2007): Hydrokinematic regions within the swash zone. Cont Shelf Res Vol 27, pp 2000-2013.
    • (2007) Cont Shelf Res , vol.27 , pp. 2000-2013
    • Hughes, M.G.1    Moseley, A.S.2
  • 132
    • 0001598859 scopus 로고
    • Design of seawalls and breakwaters
    • Hunt, I A (1959): Design of seawalls and breakwaters. Proc ASCE Vol 85, pp 123-152.
    • (1959) Proc ASCE , vol.85 , pp. 123-152
    • Hunt, I.A.1
  • 133
    • 0029414288 scopus 로고
    • Sedimentation and entrainment in dense layers of suspended particles stirred by an oscillating grid
    • Huppert, H E, J S Turner and M A Hallworth (1995): Sedimentation and entrainment in dense layers of suspended particles stirred by an oscillating grid. J Fluid Mech Vol 289, pp 263-293.
    • (1995) J Fluid Mech , vol.289 , pp. 263-293
    • Huppert, H.E.1    Turner, J.S.2    Hallworth, M.A.3
  • 134
    • 0001520829 scopus 로고
    • Littoral processes
    • N M Hill (ed), Interscience, NY
    • Inman, D Land R A Bagnold (1963): Littoral processes. In N M Hill (ed) The Sea, Vol III, Interscience, NY, pp 529-553.
    • (1963) The Sea, Vol III , pp. 529-553
    • Inman, D.L.1    Bagnold, R.A.2
  • 135
    • 0002864321 scopus 로고
    • Flume experiments on sand transport by waves and currents
    • ASCE
    • Inman, D L and A J Bowen (1963): Flume experiments on sand transport by waves and currents. Proc 8th Int ConfCoastal Eng, ASCE, pp 137-150.
    • (1963) Proc 8th Int ConfCoastal Eng , pp. 137-150
    • Inman, D.L.1    Bowen, A.J.2
  • 138
    • 58049110183 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The influence of storm size on hurricane surge
    • Irish, J L, D T Resio and J J Ratcliff (2008): The influence of storm size on hurricane surge. J Phys Oceanography Vol 38, pp 2003-2013.
    • (2008) J Phys Oceanography , vol.38 , pp. 2003-2013
    • Irish, J.L.1    Resio, D.T.2    Ratcliff, J.J.3
  • 139
    • 0026067583 scopus 로고
    • On the nature of turbulence in a stratified fluid. Part I: The energetics of mixing
    • lvey, G Nand J Imberger (1991): On the nature of turbulence in a stratified fluid. Part I: The energetics of mixing. J Phys Oceanography, Vol 21, pp 650-659.
    • (1991) J Phys Oceanography , vol.21 , pp. 650-659
    • Ivey, G.N.1    Imberger, J.2
  • 141
    • 0344552837 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Long waves induced by short wave groups over a sloping bottom
    • doi: 10.1029/2002JCOOI515
    • Janssen, T T, J A Battjes and A R van Dongeren (2003): Long waves induced by short wave groups over a sloping bottom. J Geophys Res Vol 108, No C8, 3252, doi: 10.1029/2002JCOOI515.
    • (2003) J Geophys Res , vol.108 , Issue.C8 , pp. 3252
    • Janssen, T.T.1    Battjes, J.A.2    van Dongeren, A.R.3
  • 143
    • 0024732965 scopus 로고
    • Turbulent oscillatory boundary layers at high Reynolds numbers
    • Jensen, B L, B M Sumer and J Fredsoe (1989): Turbulent oscillatory boundary layers at high Reynolds numbers. J Fluid Mech Vol 206, pp 265-297.
    • (1989) J Fluid Mech , vol.206 , pp. 265-297
    • Jensen, B.L.1    Sumer, B.M.2    Fredsoe, J.3
  • 144
    • 0001268343 scopus 로고
    • Vertical transfer in open channel flow
    • Jobson, H E and W W Sayre (1970): Vertical transfer in open channel flow. J Hydr Div, ASCE, Vol 96, No 13, pp 703-724.
    • (1970) J Hydr Div, ASCE , vol.96 , Issue.13 , pp. 703-724
    • Jobson, H.E.1    Sayre, W.W.2
  • 146
    • 0018921585 scopus 로고
    • A new approach to rough turbulent oscillatory boundary layers
    • Jonsson, I G (1980): A new approach to rough turbulent oscillatory boundary layers. Ocean Eng Vol 7, pp 109-152.
    • (1980) Ocean Eng , vol.7 , pp. 109-152
    • Jonsson, I.G.1
  • 147
    • 0001979258 scopus 로고
    • Wave-current interactions
    • Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York
    • Jonsson, I G (1990): Wave-current interactions. The Sea Vol 9, Editors B Le Mehaute and D M Hanes, Wiley, New York.
    • (1990) The Sea , vol.9
    • Jonsson, I.G.1
  • 150
    • 0025802522 scopus 로고
    • Alongshore sediment transport rate distribution
    • ASCE
    • Kamphuis, J W (1991): Alongshore sediment transport rate distribution. Proc Coastal Sediments '91, ASCE, pp 170-183.
    • (1991) Proc Coastal Sediments '91 , pp. 170-183
    • Kamphuis, J.W.1
  • 151
    • 0029228383 scopus 로고
    • Watertable overheight due to wave runup on a sandy beach
    • Kobe, ASCE
    • Kang, H-Y and P Nielsen (1994): Watertable overheight due to wave runup on a sandy beach. Proc 24th Int ConfCoastal Eng, Kobe, ASCE, pp 2115-2124.
    • (1994) Proc 24th Int ConfCoastal Eng , pp. 2115-2124
    • Kang, H.-Y.1    Nielsen, P.2
  • 152
    • 0036496812 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modelling intensive near bed sand transport under wave-current flow versus laboratory and field data
    • Kaczmarek, L M and R Ostrowski (2002): Modelling intensive near bed sand transport under wave-current flow versus laboratory and field data. Coastal Engineering, Vol 45, No 1, pp 1-18.
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.45 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-18
    • Kaczmarek, L.M.1    Ostrowski, R.2
  • 153
    • 34047136550 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Marine energy
    • Kerr, D (2007): Marine energy, Phil Trans Roy Soc Lond Vol 365, pp 971-992.
    • (2007) Phil Trans Roy Soc Lond , vol.365 , pp. 971-992
    • Kerr, D.1
  • 154
    • 0013604583 scopus 로고
    • The mechanism of an arrested saline wedge
    • A TIppen ed, McGraw-Hill
    • Keulegan, G H (1966): The mechanism of an arrested saline wedge. In A TIppen ed, Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics, McGraw-Hill, pp 546-597.
    • (1966) Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics , pp. 546-597
    • Keulegan, G.H.1
  • 159
    • 0022925658 scopus 로고
    • On the gradual reflection of weakly nonlinear stokes waves in regions with varying topography
    • Kirby, J T (1986b). On the gradual reflection of weakly nonlinear stokes waves in regions with varying topography. Journal of Fluid Mechanics Vol 162, pp 187-209.
    • (1986) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.162 , pp. 187-209
    • Kirby, J.T.1
  • 160
    • 0001301004 scopus 로고
    • Higher-order approximations in the parabolic equation method for water-waves
    • Kirby, J T (1986c): Higher-order approximations in the parabolic equation method for water-waves. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans Vol 91, CL, pp 933-952.
    • (1986) Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans , vol.91 , Issue.CL , pp. 933-952
    • Kirby, J.T.1
  • 161
    • 0022891901 scopus 로고
    • Rational approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves
    • Kirby, J T (1986d): Rational approximations in the parabolic equation method for water waves. Coastal Engineering Vol 10, pp 355-378.
    • (1986) Coastal Engineering , vol.10 , pp. 355-378
    • Kirby, J.T.1
  • 162
    • 0020849684 scopus 로고
    • A parabolic equation for the combined refraction diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying topography
    • I36(Nov)
    • Kirby, J T and R A Dalrymple (1983a): A parabolic equation for the combined refraction diffraction of Stokes waves by mildly varying topography. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, I36(Nov), pp 453-466.
    • (1983) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , pp. 453-466
    • Kirby, J.T.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 163
    • 71749105638 scopus 로고
    • The propagation of weakly non-linear wave in the presence of varying depth and currents
    • Moscow
    • Kirby, J T and R A Dalrymple (1983b): The propagation of weakly non-linear wave in the presence of varying depth and currents, Proc XXth Congress l.A. H.R., Moscow.
    • (1983) Proc XXth Congress l.A. H.R
    • Kirby, J.T.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 164
    • 0021475602 scopus 로고
    • Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly-nonlinear waves
    • Kirby, J T and R A Dalrymple (1984): Verification of a parabolic equation for propagation of weakly-nonlinear waves. Coastal Engineering, Vol 8, No 3, pp 219-232.
    • (1984) Coastal Engineering , vol.8 , Issue.3 , pp. 219-232
    • Kirby, J.T.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 166
    • 0022681813 scopus 로고
    • An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models
    • Kirby, J T and R A Dalrymple, (1986b): An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models. Coastal Engineering Vol 9, pp 545-561.
    • (1986) Coastal Engineering , vol.9 , pp. 545-561
    • Kirby, J.T.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 167
  • 170
    • 0029239202 scopus 로고
    • Swash dynamics under obliquely incident waves
    • Delft, ASCE
    • Kobayashi, Nand E A Karjadi (1994): Swash dynamics under obliquely incident waves. Proc 22nd Int ConfCoastal Eng, Delft, ASCE, pp 2155-2169.
    • (1994) Proc 22nd Int ConfCoastal Eng , pp. 2155-2169
    • Kobayashi, N.1    Karjadi, E.A.2
  • 172
    • 0001524186 scopus 로고
    • On the change of form of long waves advancing in a rectangular channel and on a new type of long, stationary waves
    • Korteweg, D J and G de Vries (1895): On the change of form of long waves advancing in a rectangular channel and on a new type of long, stationary waves. Phil Mag, Series 5, Vol 39, pp 422-443.
    • (1895) Phil Mag, Series 5 , vol.39 , pp. 422-443
    • Korteweg, D.J.1    de Vries, G.2
  • 173
    • 33745954648 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Physical and numerical modelling of deltaic sedimentation in lakes and reservoirs
    • Kostic, Sand G Parker (2003): Physical and numerical modelling of deltaic sedimentation in lakes and reservoirs. Proc 30th IAHR Conf. Theme C Vol 1, pp 413-420.
    • (2003) Proc 30th IAHR Conf. Theme C , vol.1 , pp. 413-420
    • Kostic, S.1    Parker, G.2
  • 175
    • 0001408014 scopus 로고
    • Turbidity currents and cable breaks in the western new Britain Trench
    • Krause, D C, W C White, D J W Piper and B C Heezen (1970): Turbidity currents and cable breaks in the western new Britain Trench. Bull Geol Soc Am Vol 81, pp 2153-2160.
    • (1970) Bull Geol Soc Am , vol.81 , pp. 2153-2160
    • Krause, D.C.1    White, W.C.2    Piper, D.J.W.3    Heezen, B.C.4
  • 176
    • 0022129441 scopus 로고
    • Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach profile response
    • Kriebel, D Land R G Dean (1985): Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach profile response. Coastal Engineering Vol 9, No 3, pp 221-245.
    • (1985) Coastal Engineering , vol.9 , Issue.3 , pp. 221-245
    • Kriebel, D.L.1    Dean, R.G.2
  • 182
    • 33847083590 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Boundary layer flow and bed shear stress under a solitary wave
    • Liu, P F-L, Y S Park and E A Cowen (2007): Boundary layer flow and bed shear stress under a solitary wave. J Fluid Mech Vol 574, pp 449-463.
    • (2007) J Fluid Mech , vol.574 , pp. 449-463
    • Liu, P.F.-L.1    Park, Y.S.2    Cowen, E.A.3
  • 183
    • 0003964712 scopus 로고
    • Tech Paper No 78-5, US Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center
    • Lofquist, K E B (1978): Sand ripple growth in an oscillatory-flow tunnel. Tech Paper No 78-5, US Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Engineering Research Center, 101 pp.
    • (1978) Sand ripple growth in an oscillatory-flow tunnel , pp. 101
    • Lofquist, K.E.B.1
  • 185
  • 186
    • 0002733238 scopus 로고
    • The mechanics of the boundary layer near the bottom in a progressive wave
    • Miami, ASCE
    • Longuet-Higgins, M S (1956): The mechanics of the boundary layer near the bottom in a progressive wave. Proc 6th Int ConfCoastal Eng, Miami, ASCE, pp 184-193.
    • (1956) Proc 6th Int ConfCoastal Eng , pp. 184-193
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 187
    • 0014881387 scopus 로고
    • Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident seawaves
    • Longuet-Higgins, M S (1970): Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident seawaves. J Geophys Res, Vol 75, No 33, pp 6778-6801.
    • (1970) J Geophys Res , vol.75 , Issue.33 , pp. 6778-6801
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 188
    • 17044376306 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On wave setup in shoaling water with a rough sea bed
    • Longuet-Higgins, M S (2005): On wave setup in shoaling water with a rough sea bed. J Fluid Mech Vol 527, pp 217-234.
    • (2005) J Fluid Mech , vol.527 , pp. 217-234
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 189
    • 79956358906 scopus 로고
    • Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to surf beats
    • Longuet-Higgins, M Sand R W Stewart (1962): Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves with application to surf beats. J Fluid Mech Vol 13, pp 481-504.
    • (1962) J Fluid Mech , vol.13 , pp. 481-504
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 190
    • 50549200900 scopus 로고
    • Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion with applications
    • Longuet-Higgins, M Sand R W Stewart (1964): Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion with applications. Deep Sea Research Vol 11, pp 529-562.
    • (1964) Deep Sea Research , vol.11 , pp. 529-562
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 191
    • 0002452510 scopus 로고
    • The mathematical nature of the problem of relating Lagrangian and Eulerian functions in turbulence
    • CNRS Paris
    • Lumley, J L (1962): The mathematical nature of the problem of relating Lagrangian and Eulerian functions in turbulence. In: Mechanique de la turbulence, Colloq Int CNRS Marseille, CNRS Paris, pp 17-26.
    • (1962) Mechanique de la turbulence, Colloq Int CNRS Marseille , pp. 17-26
    • Lumley, J.L.1
  • 194
    • 38149122194 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Runup of tsunami and long waves in terms of surf similarity
    • Madsen, P A and D R Fuhrman (2008): Runup of tsunami and long waves in terms of surf similarity. Coastal Eng Vol 55, pp 208-223.
    • (2008) Coastal Eng , vol.55 , pp. 208-223
    • Madsen, P.A.1    Fuhrman, D.R.2
  • 195
    • 0028976323 scopus 로고
    • Orbital rotational motion and turbulence below laboratory wind waves
    • Magnaudet, J and L Thais (1995): Orbital rotational motion and turbulence below laboratory wind waves. J Geophysical Res Vol 100, No C1, pp 757-771.
    • (1995) J Geophysical Res , vol.100 , Issue.C1 , pp. 757-771
    • Magnaudet, J.1    Thais, L.2
  • 196
    • 2942739940 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Obtainable from DHI Water and Environment (price DKK 250), e-mail dhi@dhi.dk
    • Mangor, K (2001): Shoreline Management Guidelines. Obtainable from DHI Water and Environment (price DKK 250), e-mail dhi@dhi.dk. 232pp.
    • (2001) Shoreline Management Guidelines , pp. 232
    • Mangor, K.1
  • 197
    • 57049166548 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modelling of vortex ripple morphodynamics
    • C09007, doi: 10.1029/20071C004659
    • Marieu, V, P Bonneton, D L Foster and F Ardhuin (2008): Modelling of vortex ripple morphodynamics. J Geophys Res Vol 113, C09007, doi: 10.1029/20071C004659.
    • (2008) J Geophys Res , vol.113
    • Marieu, V.1    Bonneton, P.2    Foster, D.L.3    Ardhuin, F.4
  • 198
    • 0001698106 scopus 로고
    • Effect of a porous sand bed on incipient sediment motion
    • Martin, C S (1970): Effect of a porous sand bed on incipient sediment motion. Water Resources Res, Vol 6, No 4, pp 1162-1174.
    • (1970) Water Resources Res , vol.6 , Issue.4 , pp. 1162-1174
    • Martin, C.S.1
  • 202
    • 0001029319 scopus 로고
    • On the advection of spherical and non-spherical particles in a non-uniform flow
    • Maxey, M R (1990): On the advection of spherical and non-spherical particles in a non-uniform flow. Phil Trans Roy Soc Lond Vol 333, pp 289-307.
    • (1990) Phil Trans Roy Soc Lond , vol.333 , pp. 289-307
    • Maxey, M.R.1
  • 203
    • 0022923683 scopus 로고
    • Gravitational settling of aerosol particles in randomly orientated circular flow fields
    • Maxey, M Rand S Corrsin (1986): Gravitational settling of aerosol particles in randomly orientated circular flow fields. J Atmospherical Sci Vol 43, pp 1112-1134.
    • (1986) J Atmospherical Sci , vol.43 , pp. 1112-1134
    • Maxey, M.R.1    Corrsin, S.2
  • 208
    • 0019559935 scopus 로고
    • The Korteweg-de Vries equation: A historical essay
    • Miles, J W (1981): The Korteweg-de Vries equation: A historical essay. J Fluid Mech Vol 106, pp 131-147.
    • (1981) J Fluid Mech , vol.106 , pp. 131-147
    • Miles, J.W.1
  • 209
    • 0030427852 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Erosion of mud/sand mixtures
    • Mitchener, Hand H Torfs (1996): Erosion of mud/sand mixtures. Coastal Engineering, Vol 29, No 1, pp 1-25.
    • (1996) Coastal Engineering , vol.29 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-25
    • Mitchener, H.1    Torfs, H.2
  • 210
    • 0000224727 scopus 로고
    • Settling velocity and vertical diffusion of particles in turbulent water
    • Murray, S P (1970): Settling velocity and vertical diffusion of particles in turbulent water. J Geophys Res, Vol 75, No 9, pp 1647-1654.
    • (1970) J Geophys Res , vol.75 , Issue.9 , pp. 1647-1654
    • Murray, S.P.1
  • 211
    • 28244471607 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Two-phase versus mixed-flow perspective on suspended sediment transport in turbulent channel flows
    • W10402, doi 1O.1029/2004WR003595
    • Muste, M, K You, I Fujita and R Ettema (2005): Two-phase versus mixed-flow perspective on suspended sediment transport in turbulent channel flows. Water Resources Res Vol 41, W10402, doi 1O.1029/2004WR003595.
    • (2005) Water Resources Res , vol.41
    • Muste, M.1    You, K.2    Fujita, I.3    Ettema, R.4
  • 212
    • 0017459588 scopus 로고
    • Wave entrainment of sediment from rippled beds
    • Nakato, T, F A Locher, J R Glover and J F Kennedy (1977): Wave entrainment of sediment from rippled beds. Proc ASCE Vol 103, No 81, pp 83-100.
    • (1977) Proc ASCE , vol.103 , Issue.81 , pp. 83-100
    • Nakato, T.1    Locher, F.A.2    Glover, J.R.3    Kennedy, J.F.4
  • 213
    • 0031278203 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Height limits in top down and bottom up wave environments
    • Nelson, R (1997): Height limits in top down and bottom up wave environments. Coastal Engineering Vol 32, pp 247-254.
    • (1997) Coastal Engineering , vol.32 , pp. 247-254
    • Nelson, R.1
  • 215
    • 0021062613 scopus 로고
    • Entrainment and distribution of different sand sizes under water waves
    • Nielsen, P (1983): Entrainment and distribution of different sand sizes under water waves. J Sed Pet, Vol 53, No 2, pp 423-428.
    • (1983) J Sed Pet , vol.53 , Issue.2 , pp. 423-428
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 216
    • 0021377280 scopus 로고
    • Field measurements of time averaged suspended sediment concentrations
    • Nielsen, P (1984): Field measurements of time averaged suspended sediment concentrations. Coastal Engineering Vol 8, pp 51-72.
    • (1984) Coastal Engineering , vol.8 , pp. 51-72
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 217
    • 0023169962 scopus 로고
    • Local approximations: A new way of dealing with irregular waves
    • Taipei, ASCE
    • Nielsen, P (1986): Local approximations: A new way of dealing with irregular waves. Proc 20th lnt ConfCoastal Eng, Taipei, ASCE, pp 633-646.
    • (1986) Proc 20th lnt ConfCoastal Eng , pp. 633-646
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 218
    • 0024164711 scopus 로고
    • Three simple models of wave sediment transport
    • Nielsen, P (1988): Three simple models of wave sediment transport, Coastal Engineering Vol 12, pp 43-62.
    • (1988) Coastal Engineering , vol.12 , pp. 43-62
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 219
    • 0024662193 scopus 로고
    • Analysis of natural waves by local approximations
    • ASCE
    • Nielsen, P (1989): Analysis of natural waves by local approximations. J Waterway, Port Coastal and Ocean Eng, ASCE, Vol 115, No 3, pp 384-396.
    • (1989) J Waterway, Port Coastal and Ocean Eng , vol.115 , Issue.3 , pp. 384-396
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 220
    • 0025572039 scopus 로고
    • Tidal dynamics of the watertable in beaches
    • Nielsen, P (1990): Tidal dynamics of the watertable in beaches. Water Resources Research, Vol 26 No 9, pp 2127-2135.
    • (1990) Water Resources Research , vol.26 , Issue.9 , pp. 2127-2135
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 221
    • 0025724805 scopus 로고
    • Combined convection and diffusion: A new framework for suspended sediment modelling
    • ASCE
    • Nielsen, P (1991): Combined convection and diffusion: A new framework for suspended sediment modelling. Proc Coastal Sediments '91, ASCE, pp 418-431.
    • (1991) Proc Coastal Sediments '91 , pp. 418-431
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 223
    • 84872459779 scopus 로고
    • Average velocity of non neutral particles in turbulence
    • Hobart, I E Aust
    • Nielsen, P (1992): Average velocity of non neutral particles in turbulence. Proc 11th Australasian Fluid Mech ConI, Hobart, I E Aust, pp 179-181.
    • (1992) Proc 11th Australasian Fluid Mech ConI , pp. 179-181
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 224
    • 0027801337 scopus 로고
    • Turbulence effects of the settling of suspended particles
    • Nielsen, P (1993): Turbulence effects of the settling of suspended particles. J Sed Petrology, Vol 63, No 5, pp 835-838.
    • (1993) J Sed Petrology , vol.63 , Issue.5 , pp. 835-838
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 225
    • 0031368596 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Coastal groundwater dynamics
    • Plymouth, ASCE, New York
    • Nielsen, P (1998): Coastal groundwater dynamics. Proc Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, ASCE, New York, pp 546-555.
    • (1998) Proc Coastal Dynamics '97 , pp. 546-555
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 226
    • 0032812876 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Groundwater dynamics and salinity in coastal barriers
    • Nielsen, P (1999): Groundwater dynamics and salinity in coastal barriers. J Coastal Res, Vol 15, No 3, pp 732-740.
    • (1999) J Coastal Res , vol.15 , Issue.3 , pp. 732-740
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 227
    • 0036497027 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modeling
    • Nielsen, P (2002): Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modeling. Coastal Engineering, Vol 45, No 1, pp 53-60.
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.45 , Issue.1 , pp. 53-60
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 228
    • 33746265343 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming
    • Nielsen, P (2006): Sheet flow sediment transport under waves with acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming. Coastal Engineering Vol 53, No 9, pp 749-758.
    • (2006) Coastal Engineering , vol.53 , Issue.9 , pp. 749-758
    • Nielsen, P.1
  • 229
    • 0026024905 scopus 로고
    • Wave runup distributions on natural beaches
    • Nielsen, P and D J Hanslow (1991): Wave runup distributions on natural beaches. J Coastal Res, Vol 7, No 4, pp 1139-1152.
    • (1991) J Coastal Res , vol.7 , Issue.4 , pp. 1139-1152
    • Nielsen, P.1    Hanslow, D.J.2
  • 230
    • 0030701401 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Eulerian mean velocities under non-breaking waves over horizontal bottoms
    • Orlando, ASCE
    • Nielsen, P and Z-J You (1996): Eulerian mean velocities under non-breaking waves over horizontal bottoms. Proc 25th Int Con! Coastal Eng, Orlando, ASCE, pp 4066-4078.
    • (1996) Proc 25th Int Con! Coastal Eng , pp. 4066-4078
    • Nielsen, P.1    You, Z.-J.2
  • 231
  • 232
    • 84904810614 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rip currents: Observations of hydraulic gradients, friction factors and wave pump efficiency
    • Lund, Sweden, ASCE
    • Nielsen, P, R W Brander and M G Hughes (2001): Rip currents: Observations of hydraulic gradients, friction factors and wave pump efficiency. Proc Coastal Dynamics’ 01, Lund, Sweden, ASCE, pp 483-492.
    • (2001) Proc Coastal Dynamics’ 01 , pp. 483-492
    • Nielsen, P.1    Brander, R.W.2    Hughes, M.G.3
  • 234
    • 0036497332 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Vertical fluxes of sediment in oscillatory sheet-flow
    • Nielsen, P, K U van der Wal and L Gillan (2002): Vertical fluxes of sediment in oscillatory sheet-flow. Coastal Engineering, Vol 45, No 1, pp 61-68.
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.45 , Issue.1 , pp. 61-68
    • Nielsen, P.1    van der Wal, K.U.2    Gillan, L.3
  • 235
    • 0037233794 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves
    • Nielsen P and D P Callaghan (2003): Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for sheet flow under waves. Coastal Engineering, Vol 47, No 3, pp 347-354.
    • (2003) Coastal Engineering , vol.47 , Issue.3 , pp. 347-354
    • Nielsen, P.1    Callaghan, D.P.2
  • 236
    • 3242656254 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Finite mlxmg length modelling of the diffusion of fluid momentum and particles in turbulence
    • Nielsen, P and I A L Teakle (2004): Finite mlxmg length modelling of the diffusion of fluid momentum and particles in turbulence. Physics of Fluids, Vol 16, No 7, pp 2342-2348.
    • (2004) Physics of Fluids , vol.16 , Issue.7 , pp. 2342-2348
    • Nielsen, P.1    Teakle, I.A.L.2
  • 240
  • 242
    • 0018035141 scopus 로고
    • Self fonned straight rivers with equilibrium banks and mobile bed. Part I. The sand-silt river
    • Parker, G (1978): Self fonned straight rivers with equilibrium banks and mobile bed. Part I. The sand-silt river. J Fluid Mech Vol 89, Part I, pp 109-125.
    • (1978) J Fluid Mech , vol.89 , pp. 109-125
    • Parker, G.1
  • 243
    • 0019999267 scopus 로고
    • Conditions for the ignition of catastrophically erosive turbidity currents
    • Parker, G (1982): Conditions for the ignition of catastrophically erosive turbidity currents. Mar Geol Vol 46, pp 307-327.
    • (1982) Mar Geol , vol.46 , pp. 307-327
    • Parker, G.1
  • 244
    • 0022925936 scopus 로고
    • Self-accelerating turbidity currents
    • Parker, G, Y Fukushima and H M Pantin (1986): Self-accelerating turbidity currents. J Fluid Mech Vol 171, pp 145-181.
    • (1986) J Fluid Mech , vol.171 , pp. 145-181
    • Parker, G.1    Fukushima, Y.2    Pantin, H.M.3
  • 245
    • 0344272176 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mixing efficiency in stratified shear flows
    • Peltier, W Rand C P Caulfield (2003): Mixing efficiency in stratified shear flows. Ann Rev Fluid Mech Vol 35, pp 135-168.
    • (2003) Ann Rev Fluid Mech , vol.35 , pp. 135-168
    • Peltier, W.R.1    Caulfield, C.P.2
  • 247
    • 0001349546 scopus 로고
    • Periodic non-linear diffusion: An integral relation and its physical consequences
    • Philip, J R (1973): Periodic non-linear diffusion: An integral relation and its physical consequences. Aust J Physics Vol 26, pp 513-519.
    • (1973) Aust J Physics , vol.26 , pp. 513-519
    • Philip, J.R.1
  • 248
    • 9644268489 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Cambridge University Press
    • Pugh, D (2004): Changing Sea Levels. Cambridge University Press, 265pp.
    • (2004) Changing Sea Levels , pp. 265
    • Pugh, D.1
  • 250
  • 251
    • 39149129225 scopus 로고
    • Surry Hills, NSW, Australia
    • Readers Digest (1983): Guide to the Australian Coast. Surry Hills, NSW, Australia, 479pp.
    • (1983) Guide to the Australian Coast , pp. 479
  • 252
    • 0003499409 scopus 로고
    • Sediment transport of fine sand under asymmetric oscillatory flow
    • H840.20, part Vll
    • Ribberink J Sand Z Chen (1993): Sediment transport of fine sand under asymmetric oscillatory flow. Delft Hydrualics Report H840.20, part Vll.
    • (1993) Delft Hydrualics Report
    • Ribberink, J.S.1    Chen, Z.2
  • 253
    • 0028151749 scopus 로고
    • Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow
    • Ribberink, J S and A A AI-Salem (1994): Sediment transport in oscillatory boundary layers in cases of rippled beds and sheet flow. J Geophys Res Vol 99, No C6, pp 12707-12727.
    • (1994) J Geophys Res , vol.99 , Issue.C6 , pp. 12707-12727
    • Ribberink, J.S.1    Ai-Salem, A.A.2
  • 256
    • 0002901837 scopus 로고
    • Sedimentation and fluidization, Part 1
    • Richardson, J F and W N Zaki (1954): Sedimentation and fluidization, Part 1. Trans Inst Chern Eng Vol 32, pp 35-53.
    • (1954) Trans Inst Chern Eng , vol.32 , pp. 35-53
    • Richardson, J.F.1    Zaki, W.N.2
  • 258
    • 33645832563 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Driving mechanisms for groundwater flow and salt transport in a subterranean estuary
    • Robinson, C, B Gibbes and L Li (2006): Driving mechanisms for groundwater flow and salt transport in a subterranean estuary. Geophysical Research Letters Vol 33, L03402.
    • (2006) Geophysical Research Letters , vol.33 , pp. L03402
    • Robinson, C.1    Gibbes, B.2    Li, L.3
  • 259
    • 32044441249 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Coastal morphodynamics evolution techniques
    • Roelvink J A (2006): Coastal morphodynamics evolution techniques. Coastal Engineering Vol 53, pp 277-287.
    • (2006) Coastal Engineering , vol.53 , pp. 277-287
    • Roelvink, J.A.1
  • 261
    • 0001559459 scopus 로고
    • Modem conceptions of the mechanics of turbulence
    • Rouse, H (1937): Modem conceptions of the mechanics of turbulence. Trans ASCE Vol 102, pp 463-543.
    • (1937) Trans ASCE , vol.102 , pp. 463-543
    • Rouse, H.1
  • 262
    • 0023520477 scopus 로고
    • Bedform alignment in directionally varying flows
    • Rubin, D M and R M Hunter (1987): Bedform alignment in directionally varying flows. Science Vol 237, pp 276-278.
    • (1987) Science , vol.237 , pp. 276-278
    • Rubin, D.M.1    Hunter, R.M.2
  • 263
    • 0003587285 scopus 로고
    • John Wiley, Chichester, USA
    • Rutherford, J C (1994): River Mixing. John Wiley, Chichester, USA, 347pp.
    • (1994) River Mixing , pp. 347
    • Rutherford, J.C.1
  • 264
    • 0002048195 scopus 로고
    • Prediction of near bottom velocity history by a non-linear dispersive wave model
    • Sato, S, M B Kabiling and H Suzuki (1992): Prediction of near bottom velocity history by a non-linear dispersive wave model. Coastal Eng in Japan, Vol 35, No 1, pp 67-82.
    • (1992) Coastal Eng in Japan , vol.35 , Issue.1 , pp. 67-82
    • Sato, S.1    Kabiling, M.B.2    Suzuki, H.3
  • 265
    • 0000768095 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Numerical simulation of 1993 southwest Hokkaido earthquake tsunami around Okushiri Island
    • ASCE
    • Sato S (1996): Numerical simulation of 1993 southwest Hokkaido earthquake tsunami around Okushiri Island. J Waterway, Port and Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Vol 122, No 5, pp 209-215.
    • (1996) J Waterway, Port and Coastal Engineering , vol.122 , Issue.5 , pp. 209-215
    • Sato, S.1
  • 268
    • 18144384774 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Fall velocities of natural sediment particles: As simple mathematical presentation of the fall velocity law
    • She, K, L Trim and D Pope (2005): Fall velocities of natural sediment particles: As simple mathematical presentation of the fall velocity law. J Hydraulic Res, Vol 43, No 2, pp 189-195.
    • (2005) J Hydraulic Res , vol.43 , Issue.2 , pp. 189-195
    • She, K.1    Trim, L.2    Pope, D.3
  • 269
    • 50849125144 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Aerodynamic roughness lengths over movable beds: Comparison of wind tunnel and field data
    • F02S08, doi: 10.1029/2007IJF000784
    • Sherman, D J and E J Farrell (2008): Aerodynamic roughness lengths over movable beds: Comparison of wind tunnel and field data. J Geophys Res Vol 113, F02S08, doi: 10.1029/2007IJF000784.
    • (2008) J Geophys Res , vol.113
    • Sherman, D.J.1    Farrell, E.J.2
  • 270
    • 0002201739 scopus 로고
    • Anwendung der Ahnlichkeitsmechanik und Turbulenzforschung auf die Geschiebe-bewegung
    • Berlin
    • Shields, A (1936): Anwendung der Ahnlichkeitsmechanik und Turbulenzforschung auf die Geschiebe-bewegung. Mitt Preuss Versuchsanstalt for Wasserbau und Schiffbau, No 26, Berlin.
    • (1936) Mitt Preuss Versuchsanstalt for Wasserbau und Schiffbau , Issue.26
    • Shields, A.1
  • 272
    • 0022325235 scopus 로고
    • The Nihonkai-Chubo earthquake tsunami on the north Akita coast
    • Shuto, N (1985): The Nihonkai-Chubo earthquake tsunami on the north Akita coast. Coastal Eng in Japan Vol 28, pp 255-264.
    • (1985) Coastal Eng in Japan , vol.28 , pp. 255-264
    • Shuto, N.1
  • 275
    • 0014932266 scopus 로고
    • Measurements close to the bed in a wave tank
    • Sleath J F A (1970): Measurements close to the bed in a wave tank. J Fluid Mech Vol 42, pp 111-123.
    • (1970) J Fluid Mech , vol.42 , pp. 111-123
    • Sleath, J.F.A.1
  • 277
    • 0023412581 scopus 로고
    • Turbulent oscillatory flow over rough beds
    • Sleath, J F A (1987): Turbulent oscillatory flow over rough beds. J Fluid Mech Vol 182, pp 369-409.
    • (1987) J Fluid Mech , vol.182 , pp. 369-409
    • Sleath, J.F.A.1
  • 278
    • 0032704263 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Conditions for plug formation in oscillatory flow
    • Sleath, J F A (1999): Conditions for plug formation in oscillatory flow. Cant Shelf Res Vol 19, pp 1643-1664.
    • (1999) Cant Shelf Res , vol.19 , pp. 1643-1664
    • Sleath, J.F.A.1
  • 279
    • 84911650053 scopus 로고
    • Some measurements of particle velocity autocorrelation functions in a turbulent flow
    • Snyder, W Hand J L Lumley (1971): Some measurements of particle velocity autocorrelation functions in a turbulent flow. J Fluid Mech Vol 48, pp 41-71.
    • (1971) J Fluid Mech , vol.48 , pp. 41-71
    • Snyder, W.H.1    Lumley, J.L.2
  • 281
    • 33750250309 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Estimates of power consumed by mixing in the ocean interior
    • St Laurent, Land H Simmons (2006): Estimates of power consumed by mixing in the ocean interior. J Clim Vol 19, pp 4877-4890.
    • (2006) J Clim , vol.19 , pp. 4877-4890
    • St Laurent, L.1    Simmons, H.2
  • 282
    • 33646105361 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Empirical parameterization of setup, swash and runup
    • Stockdon, H F, R A Holman, P A Howd and A H Sallenger Jr (2006): Empirical parameterization of setup, swash and runup. Coastal Eng, Vol 53, No 7, pp 573-588.
    • (2006) Coastal Eng , vol.53 , Issue.7 , pp. 573-588
    • Stockdon, H.F.1    Holman, R.A.2    Howd, P.A.3    Sallenger, A.H.4
  • 284
    • 0000025473 scopus 로고
    • On the theory of oscillatory waves
    • Stokes, G G (1847): On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans Cambridge Phil Soc Vol 8, pp 441-473.
    • (1847) Trans Cambridge Phil Soc , vol.8 , pp. 441-473
    • Stokes, G.G.1
  • 285
    • 0030270756 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Velocity and concentration profiles in sheet flow layer of mobile bed
    • Sumer, B M, A Kozakiewicz, J Fredsoe and R Deigaard (1999): Velocity and concentration profiles in sheet flow layer of mobile bed. J Hydraulic Eng, Vol 122, No 10, pp 549-558.
    • (1999) J Hydraulic Eng , vol.122 , Issue.10 , pp. 549-558
    • Sumer, B.M.1    Kozakiewicz, A.2    Fredsoe, J.3    Deigaard, R.4
  • 286
    • 0021521973 scopus 로고
    • Wave heights and setup in he surf zone
    • Svendsen, I A (1984): Wave heights and setup in he surf zone. Coastal Engineering, Vol 8 No 4, pp 303-329.
    • (1984) Coastal Engineering , vol.8 , Issue.4 , pp. 303-329
    • Svendsen, I.A.1
  • 289
    • 33748112933 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Tsunami science before and beyond Boxing Day 2004
    • Synolakis, C E and E N Bernard (2006): Tsunami science before and beyond Boxing Day 2004. Phil Trans Roy Soc Land, Vol A364, pp 2231-2265.
    • (2006) Phil Trans Roy Soc Land , vol.A364 , pp. 2231-2265
    • Synolakis, C.E.1    Bernard, E.N.2
  • 290
    • 84960552318 scopus 로고
    • Diffusion by continuous movements
    • Taylor, G I (1921): Diffusion by continuous movements. London Mathematical Society Vol 20, pp 196-212.
    • (1921) London Mathematical Society , vol.20 , pp. 196-212
    • Taylor, G.I.1
  • 291
    • 0003381083 scopus 로고
    • Dispersion of soluble matter in solvent flowing slowly through a tube
    • Taylor, G I (1953): Dispersion of soluble matter in solvent flowing slowly through a tube. Proc Roy Soc Land, Series A Vol 219, pp 186-202.
    • (1953) Proc Roy Soc Land, Series A , vol.219 , pp. 186-202
    • Taylor, G.I.1
  • 292
    • 0001450380 scopus 로고
    • The dispersion of matter in turbulent flow through a pipe
    • Taylor, G I (1954): The dispersion of matter in turbulent flow through a pipe. Proc Roy Soc Land, Series A Vol 223, pp 446-468.
    • (1954) Proc Roy Soc Land, Series A , vol.223 , pp. 446-468
    • Taylor, G.I.1
  • 293
    • 35448951125 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modelling suspended sediment profiles under waves: A finite mixing length theory
    • Lisbon, World Scientific
    • Teakie, I A Land P Nielsen (2004): Modelling suspended sediment profiles under waves: A finite mixing length theory. Proc 29 ICCE, Lisbon, World Scientific, pp 1780-1792.
    • (2004) Proc 29 ICCE , pp. 1780-1792
    • Teakie, I.A.L.1    Nielsen, P.2
  • 295
    • 23044477846 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Adjustment of sand ripples under changing water waves
    • Testic, F Y, S I Voropayev and H J S Fernando (2008): Adjustment of sand ripples under changing water waves. Phys Fluids, Vol 17, 072104.
    • (2008) Phys Fluids , vol.17 , pp. 072104
    • Testic, F.Y.1    Voropayev, S.I.2    Fernando, H.J.S.3
  • 297
    • 84976152035 scopus 로고
    • Measurements on instability and turbulence in a stratified shear flow
    • Thorpe, S A (1973): Measurements on instability and turbulence in a stratified shear flow. J Fluid Mech Vol 73, pp 731-781.
    • (1973) J Fluid Mech , vol.73 , pp. 731-781
    • Thorpe, S.A.1
  • 298
    • 0033942545 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Analytical investigation on tsunami generated by submarine slides
    • Tinti, Sand E Bortolucci (2000): Analytical investigation on tsunami generated by submarine slides. Annali di Geofisica, Vol 43, No 3, pp S19-S36.
    • (2000) Annali di Geofisica , vol.43 , Issue.3 , pp. S19-S36
    • Tinti, S.1    Bortolucci, E.2
  • 299
    • 0035009139 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Tsunami excitation by submarine slides in shallow water approximation
    • Tinti, S, E Bortolucci and C Chiavettieri (2001): Tsunami excitation by submarine slides in shallow water approximation. Pure and Applied Geophysics Vol 158, pp 789-797.
    • (2001) Pure and Applied Geophysics , vol.158 , pp. 789-797
    • Tinti, S.1    Bortolucci, E.2    Chiavettieri, C.3
  • 300
    • 1842660027 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Selective entrainment of sediment graded by size and density under waves
    • Tomkins, M R, P Nielsen and M G Hughes (2003): Selective entrainment of sediment graded by size and density under waves. Journal of Sedimentary Research, 73(6), pp 906-911.
    • (2003) Journal of Sedimentary Research , vol.73 , Issue.6 , pp. 906-911
    • Tomkins, M.R.1    Nielsen, P.2    Hughes, M.G.3
  • 301
    • 0017494246 scopus 로고
    • The motion of a small sphere in a rotating velocity field: A possible mechanism for suspending particles in turbulence
    • Tooby, P F, G L Wick and J D Isacs (1977): The motion of a small sphere in a rotating velocity field: A possible mechanism for suspending particles in turbulence. J Geophysical Res Vol 82, No 15C, pp 2096-2100.
    • (1977) J Geophysical Res , vol.82 15C , pp. 2096-2100
    • Tooby, P.F.1    Wick, G.L.2    Isacs, J.D.3
  • 303
    • 85060772694 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Observation and analysis of sediment diffusivity profiles over sandy rippled beds under waves
    • C02023, doi: 10.1029/2008JC0044944
    • Thorne, P D, A G Davies and P S Bell (2009): Observation and analysis of sediment diffusivity profiles over sandy rippled beds under waves. J Geophys Res Vol 114, C02023, doi: 10.1029/2008JC0044944.
    • (2009) J Geophys Res , vol.114
    • Thorne, P.D.1    Davies, A.G.2    Bell, P.S.3
  • 304
    • 85116533012 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Geometry, migration and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-IS
    • Traikovsky, P, D E Hay, J D Irish and J F Lynch (1999): Geometry, migration and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-IS. J Geophys Res Vol 104, No 81, pp 1808-1824.
    • (1999) J Geophys Res , vol.104 , Issue.81 , pp. 1808-1824
    • Traikovsky, P.1    Hay, D.E.2    Irish, J.D.3    Lynch, J.F.4
  • 305
    • 34548308695 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Observations of wave orbital scale ripples and a nonequilibrium time dependent model
    • C06026
    • Traikovsky, P (2007): Observations of wave orbital scale ripples and a nonequilibrium time dependent model. J Geophy Res Vol 112, C06026.
    • (2007) J Geophy Res , vol.112
    • Traikovsky, P.1
  • 306
    • 0021500277 scopus 로고
    • Turbulent wave boundary layers: 1 Model formulation and first order solution
    • Trowbridge J and 0 S Madsen (1984): Turbulent wave boundary layers: 1 Model formulation and first order solution. J Geophys Res Vol 89, No C5, pp 7989-7997.
    • (1984) J Geophys Res , vol.89 C5 , pp. 7989-7997
    • Trowbridge, J.1    Madsen, O.S.2
  • 307
    • 18144397979 scopus 로고
    • Experimental study on the deformation of runup of tsunami in shallow water-Case study of the tsunami caused by the 1983 Nihonkai Chubu earthquake
    • Tsuruya, H, S Nakano and H Ichinohe (1984): Experimental study on the deformation of runup of tsunami in shallow water-Case study of the tsunami caused by the 1983 Nihonkai Chubu earthquake. Proc 31st Japanese Con/Coastal Eng, pp 237-241.
    • (1984) Proc 31st Japanese Con/Coastal Eng , pp. 237-241
    • Tsuruya, H.1    Nakano, S.2    Ichinohe, H.3
  • 308
    • 0027789765 scopus 로고
    • Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches
    • Turner, I L (1993): Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches. Marine Geology Vol 115, pp 227-238.
    • (1993) Marine Geology , vol.115 , pp. 227-238
    • Turner, I.L.1
  • 309
    • 0030870140 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Beach dewatering as a soft engineering solution to coastal erosion
    • Turner, I Land S P Leatherman (1997): Beach dewatering as a soft engineering solution to coastal erosion. J Coastal Res, Vol 13, No 4, pp 1060-1063.
    • (1997) J Coastal Res , vol.13 , Issue.4 , pp. 1060-1063
    • Turner, I.L.1    Leatherman, S.P.2
  • 310
    • 85116588155 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rapid watertable fluctuations: Implications for swash zone sediment mobility
    • Turner, I Land P Nielsen (1997): Rapid watertable fluctuations: Implications for swash zone sediment mobility. Coastal Engineering Vol 32, pp 48-89.
    • (1997) Coastal Engineering , vol.32 , pp. 48-89
    • Turner, I.L.1    Nielsen, P.2
  • 313
    • 0002506245 scopus 로고
    • Edge waves on a sloping beach
    • Ursell, F (1952): Edge waves on a sloping beach. Proc Roy Soc Land, Vol A214, pp 97-97.
    • (1952) Proc Roy Soc Land , vol.A214 , pp. 97-97
    • Ursell, F.1
  • 315
    • 0021123288 scopus 로고
    • Sediment pickup functions
    • ASCE
    • Van Rijn, L C (1984a): Sediment pickup functions. J Hydraulic Eng, Vol 110, No 10, ASCE, pp 1494-1502.
    • (1984) J Hydraulic Eng , vol.110 , Issue.10 , pp. 1494-1502
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1
  • 316
    • 0021222040 scopus 로고
    • Sediment transport Part II: Suspended load transport
    • ASCE
    • Van Rijn, L C (1984b): Sediment transport Part II: Suspended load transport. J Hydraulic Eng, Vol 110, No 10, ASCE, pp 1613-1641.
    • (1984) J Hydraulic Eng , vol.110 , Issue.10 , pp. 1613-1641
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1
  • 318
    • 34249052840 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. I: Initiation of motion, bed roughness, and bed-load transport
    • Van Rijn L C (2007): Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. I: Initiation of motion, bed roughness, and bed-load transport. J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE, Vol 133, No 6, pp 649-667.
    • (2007) J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE , vol.133 , Issue.6 , pp. 649-667
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1
  • 319
    • 34249000684 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. II: Suspended transport
    • Van Rijn L C (2007): Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. II: Suspended transport. J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE, Vol 133, No 6, pp 668-689.
    • (2007) J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE , vol.133 , Issue.6 , pp. 668-689
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1
  • 320
    • 34347209455 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. III: Graded beds
    • Van Rijn L C (2007): Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. III: Graded beds. J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE, Vol 133, No 7, pp 761-775.
    • (2007) J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE , vol.133 , Issue.7 , pp. 761-775
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1
  • 321
    • 34347225616 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. IV: Application of morphodynamic model
    • Van Rijn L C, D J R Walstra and M van Ormondt (2007): Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. IV: Application of morphodynamic model. J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE, Vol 133, No 7, pp 776-793.
    • (2007) J Hydraulic Eng, ASCE , vol.133 , Issue.7 , pp. 776-793
    • Van Rijn, L.C.1    Walstra, D.J.R.2    van Ormondt, M.3
  • 323
    • 33746179844 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A sheet flow transport rate formula asymmetric forward leaning waves and currents
    • Lisbon, World Scientific
    • Watanabe, A and S Sato (2004): A sheet flow transport rate formula asymmetric forward leaning waves and currents. Proc 29th ICCE, Lisbon, World Scientific, pp 1703-1714.
    • (2004) Proc 29th ICCE , pp. 1703-1714
    • Watanabe, A.1    Sato, S.2
  • 324
    • 33751307430 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon
    • Weir F M, M G Hughes and T E Baldock (2006): Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon, Geomorphology, Vol 82, No 3-4, pp 331-346.
    • (2006) Geomorphology , vol.82 , Issue.3-4 , pp. 331-346
    • Weir, F.M.1    Hughes, M.G.2    Baldock, T.E.3
  • 325
    • 33744865211 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the systematic offshore decay of breaker bars
    • Orlando, ASCE
    • Wijnberg, K M (1996): On the systematic offshore decay of breaker bars. Proc 25th ICCE, Orlando, ASCE, pp 3600-3613.
    • (1996) Proc 25th ICCE , pp. 3600-3613
    • Wijnberg, K.M.1
  • 326
    • 84872475244 scopus 로고
    • Dynamics of partially mixed estuaries
    • Kjerfve, Bed, CRC Press
    • Wilson, R E (1988): Dynamics of partially mixed estuaries. In Kjerfve, Bed: Hydrodynamics of Estuaries Vol 1, CRC Press, pp 1-15.
    • (1988) Hydrodynamics of Estuaries , vol.1 , pp. 1-15
    • Wilson, R.E.1
  • 327
    • 0031650896 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A simple model for turbulence induced flocculation of cohesive sediments
    • Winterwerp, J C (1998): A simple model for turbulence induced flocculation of cohesive sediments. J Hydraulic Res, Vol 36, No 3, pp 309-326.
    • (1998) J Hydraulic Res , vol.36 , Issue.3 , pp. 309-326
    • Winterwerp, J.C.1
  • 331
    • 2142736270 scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamic variability of beaches and surf zones, a synthesis
    • Wright, L D and A D Short (1984): Morphodynamic variability of beaches and surf zones, a synthesis. Marine Geology Vol 56, pp 92-118.
    • (1984) Marine Geology , vol.56 , pp. 92-118
    • Wright, L.D.1    Short, A.D.2
  • 332
    • 0345621488 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Small-scale hydrodynamics in lakes
    • Wuest, A and A Lorke (2003): Small-scale hydrodynamics in lakes. Ann Rev Fluid Mech Vol 35, pp 373-412.
    • (2003) Ann Rev Fluid Mech , vol.35 , pp. 373-412
    • Wuest, A.1    Lorke, A.2
  • 333
    • 84874119925 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Influence of the EI Nino southern oscillation on storm severity along the NSW coast
    • Adelaide
    • You, Z-J and D Lord (2005): Influence of the EI Nino southern oscillation on storm severity along the NSW coast. Proc 17th Australasian Coastal Eng Conf, Adelaide, pp 389-392.
    • (2005) Proc 17th Australasian Coastal Eng Conf , pp. 389-392
    • You, Z.-J.1    Lord, D.2
  • 334
    • 0030423857 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The growth offetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 1. Total energy and peak frequency
    • Young, I Rand L A Verhagen (1996): The growth offetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 1. Total energy and peak frequency. Coastal Engineering Vol 29, pp47-78.
    • (1996) Coastal Engineering , vol.29 , pp. 47-78
    • Young, I.R.1    Verhagen, L.A.2
  • 335
    • 0030439187 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The growth offetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 2. Spectral evolution
    • Young, I Rand L A Verhagen (1996): The growth offetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 2. Spectral evolution. Coastal Engineering Vol 29, pp 79-100.
    • (1996) Coastal Engineering , vol.29 , pp. 79-100
    • Young, I.R.1    Verhagen, L.A.2
  • 336
    • 0030435561 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The growth of fetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 3. Directional spectra
    • Young, I R, L A Verhagen and S K Khatri (1996): The growth of fetch limited waves in finite depth: Part 3. Directional spectra. Coastal Engineering Vol 29, pp 101-11.
    • (1996) Coastal Engineering , vol.29 , pp. 101-111
    • Young, I.R.1    Verhagen, L.A.2    Khatri, S.K.3
  • 337
    • 0008245984 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mobile layer in oscillatory sheet flow
    • Zala Flores, N and J F A Sleath (1998): Mobile layer in oscillatory sheet flow. J Geophys Res Vol 103, No C6, pp 12, 783-12, 793.
    • (1998) J Geophys Res , vol.103 , Issue.C6 , pp. 12, 783-12, 793
    • Zala Flores, N.1    Sleath, J.F.A.2


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.