Sustainable retailing in the fashion industry: A systematic literature review

Sustainability (Switzerland)

Volumn 9, Issue 7, 2017, Pages

  Yang, Shuai ^a   Song, Yiping ^b   Tong, Siliang ^c  

^a DONGHUA UNIVERSITY   (China)

^b FUDAN UNIVERSITY   (China)

^c TEMPLE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

Author keywords

Developing country; Fashion industry; Sustainable retailing; Systematic literature review

Indexed keywords

CLOTHING INDUSTRY; COMPLEXITY; DEVELOPING WORLD; INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT; LITERATURE REVIEW; LOGISTICS; RETAILING; SUSTAINABILITY;

EID: 85025668883     PISSN: None     EISSN: 20711050     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.3390/su9071266     Document Type: Review

References (119)

1. International Institute for Sustainable Development; Deloitte & Touche; the World Business Council for Sustainable Development. Business Strategy for Sustainable Development: Leadership and Accountability for the 90s; Diane Publishing Co.: Collingdale, PA, USA, 1992.
2. Statistics and Facts on the Apparel Market in the U.S. Available online: https://www.statista.com/topics/965/apparel-market-in-the-us/(accessed on 4 April 2017).
3. Ytterhus, B.E., Arnestad, P., Lothe, S. Environmental initiatives in the retailing sector: An analysis of supply chain pressures and partnerships. Corp. Soc. Responsib. Environ. Manag. 1999, 6, 181-188.
4. Belz, F. Food retailers as ecological gatekeepers. An international comparison between Switzerland and Sweden. In Proceedings of the Fifth International Research Conference of the Greening of Industry Network, Heidelberg, Germany, 24-27 November 1996.
5. Durieu, X. How Europe's retail sector helps promote sustainable production and consumption. Ind. Environ. 2003, 26, 7-9.
6. Erol, I., Cakar, N., Erel, D., Sari, R. Sustainability in the Turkish Retailing Industry. Sustain. Dev. 2009, 17, 49-67.
7. Christopher, M., Lowson, R., Peck, H. Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2004, 32, 367-376.
8. Tang, A.K.Y., Lai, K.H., Cheng, T.C.E. A multi-research-method approach to studying environmental sustainability in retail operations. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 2016, 171, 394-404.
9. Lee, N., Yun, J.C., Youn, C., Lee, Y. Does green fashion retailing make consumers more eco-friendly? The influence of green fashion products and campaigns on green consciousness and behavior. Cloth. Text. Res. J. 2012, 30, 67-82.
10. Johnsen, T.E., Miemczyk, J., Howard, M. A systematic literature review of sustainable purchasing and supply research: Theoretical perspectives and opportunities for IMP-based research. Ind. Mark. Manag. 2017, 61, 130-143.
11. Karaosman, H., Morales-Alonso, G., Brun, A., Rosen, M.A. From a systematic literature review to a classification framework: Sustainability integration in fashion operations. Sustainability 2017, 9, 30.
12. Nuhoff-Isakhanyan, G., Wubben, E., Omta, S.W.F. Sustainability benefits and challenges of inter-organizational collaboration in Bio-Based business: A systematic literature review. Sustainability 2016, 8, 307.
13. Lincoln, Y.S., Guba, E.G. Naturalistic Inquiry; Sage Publications: Beverly Hills, CA, USA, 1985.
14. Bianchi, C., Birtwistle, G. Consumer clothing disposal behaviour: A comparative study. Int. J. Consum. Stud. 2012, 36, 335-341.
15. Bly, S., Gwozdz, W., Reisch, L.A. Exit from the high street: An exploratory study of sustainable fashion consumption pioneers. Int. J. Consum. Stud. 2015, 39, 125-135.
16. Cortez, M.A., Tu, N.T., Van Anh, D., Zagitang, B., Vegafria, E. Fast fashion quadrangle: An analysis. Acad. Mark. Stud. J. 2014, 18, 1-18.
17. Goworek, H., Fisher, T., Cooper, T., Woodward, S., Hiller, A. The sustainable clothing market: An evaluation of potential strategies for UK retailers. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2012, 40, 935-955.
18. Joung, H.-M. Fast-fashion consumers' post-purchase behaviours. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2014, 42, 688-697.
19. Pookulangara, S., Shephard, A. Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions- An exploratory study. J. Retail. Consum. Serv. 2013, 20, 200-206.
20. Ritch, E.L. Consumers interpreting sustainability: Moving beyond food to fashion. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2015, 43, 1162-1181.
21. Shen, B. Sustainable fashion supply chain: Lessons from H&M. Sustainability 2014, 6, 6236-6249.
22. Yeung, G., Ang, K.L. Online fashion retailing and retail geography: The blogshop phenomenon in Singapore. Tijdschrift Voor Economische En Sociale Geografie 2016, 107, 81-99.
23. Oliveira, T.V.D., Mascarenhas, A.O., Tronchin, G.R., Baptista, R.M. Socially responsible consumption in the fashion retail industry: Analyzing consumer intentions to avoid buying from companies denounced by contemporary slavery. Revista De Gestao Social E Ambiental 2014, 8, 63-75.
24. Faust, M.E. Cashmere: A lux-story supply chain told by retailers to build a competitive sustainable advantage. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2013, 41, 973-985.
25. Fuentes, C. Green materialities: Marketing and the socio-material construction of green products. Bus. Strateg. Environ. 2014, 23, 105-116.
26. Fuentes, C. Images of responsible consumers: Organizing the marketing of sustainability. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2015, 43, 367-385.
27. Fuentes, C., Fredriksson, C. Sustainability service in-store: Service work and the promotion of sustainable consumption. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2016, 44, 492-507.
28. Gam, H.J. Are fashion-conscious consumers more likely to adopt eco-friendly clothing? J. Fash. Mark. Manag. 2011, 15, 178-193.
29. Ha-Brookshire, J.E., Norum, P.S. Willingness to pay for socially responsible products: Case of cotton apparel. J. Consum. Mark. 2011, 28, 344-353.
30. Hyllegard, K.H., Ogle, J.P., Dunbar, B.H. The influence of consumer identity on perceptions of store atmospherics and store patronage at a spectacular and sustainable retail site. Cloth. Text. Res. J. 2006, 24, 316-334.
31. Jones, P., Hillier, D., Comfort, D. Sustainable consumption and the UK's leading retailers. Soc. Responsib. J. 2014, 6, 244-259.
32. Kumar, P. Greening retail: An Indian experience. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2014, 42, 613-625.
33. Ritch, E.L., Schröder, M.J. Accessing and affording sustainability: The experience of fashion consumption within young families. Int. J. Consum. Stud. 2012, 36, 203-210.
34. Ryding, D., Navrozidou, A., Carey, R. The impact of eco-fashion strategies on male shoppers perceptions of brand image and loyalty. Int. J. Bus. Glob. 2014, 13, 173-196.
35. Wang, H.H., Chen, M.D., Workroom, W.H. Financial attributes and performance of luxury-goods brand strategies. Taiwan Text. Res. J. 2009, 19, 28-40.
36. Beh, L.S., Ghobadian, A., He, Q., Gallear, D., O'Regan, N. Second-life retailing: A reverse supply chain perspective. Supply Chain Manag. 2016, 21, 259-272.
37. Delai, I., Takahashi, S. Corporate sustainability in emerging markets: Insights from the practices reported by the Brazilian retailers. J. Clean. Prod. 2013, 47, 211-221.
38. Hvass, K.K. Post-retail responsibility of garments-A fashion industry perspective. J. Fash. Mark. Manag. 2014, 18, 413-430.
39. Wilson, J.P. The triple bottom line: Undertaking an economic, social, and environmental retail sustainability strategy. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2015, 43, 432-447.
40. Shen, B., Li, Q. Impacts of returning unsold products in retail outsourcing fashion supply chain: A sustainability analysis. Sustainability 2015, 7, 1172-1185.
41. Shen, B., Choi, T.M., Lo, K.Y. Enhancing economic sustainability by markdown money supply contracts in the fashion industry: China vs. U.S.A. Sustainability 2016, 8, 31.
42. Ashworth, C.J. Marketing and organisational development in e-SMEs: Understanding survival and sustainability in growth-oriented and comfort-zone pure-play enterprises in the fashion retail industry. Int. Entrep. Manag. J. 2012, 8, 165-201.
43. Ashworth, C.J., Schmidt, R.ä., Pioch, E.A., Hallsworth, A. An approach to sustainable 'fashion' e-retail: A five-stage evolutionary strategy for 'clicks-and-mortar' and 'pure-play' enterprises. J. Retail. Consum. Serv. 2006, 13, 289-299.
44. Ashworth, C.J., Schmidt, R.ä., Pioch, E.A., Hallsworth, A. "Web-weaving": an approach to sustainable e-retail and online advantage in lingerie fashion marketing. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2006, 34, 497-511.
45. Wiese, A., Toporowski, W., Zielke, S. Transport-related CO2, effects of online and brick-and-mortar shopping: A comparison and sensitivity analysis of clothing retailing. Transp. Res. Part D Transp. Environ. 2012, 17, 473-477.
46. Stearns, P.N. Stages of consumerism: Recent work on the issues of periodization. J. Mod. Hist. 1997, 69, 102-117.
47. Babin, B.J., Darden, W.R., Griffin, M. Work and/or fun: Measuring hedonic and utilitarian shopping value. J. Consum. Res. 1994, 20, 644-656.
48. Holbrook, M.B., Hirschman, E.C. The experiential aspects of consumption: Consumer fantasies, feelings, and fun. J. Consum. Res. 1982, 9, 132-140.
49. Jansen-Verbeke, M. Women, shopping and leisure. Leis. Stud. 1987, 6, 71-86.
50. Hines, T., Bruce, M. Fashion Marketing-Contemporary Issues, 2nd ed., Routledge: London, UK, 2007.
51. Muran, L. Profile of H&M: A pioneer of fast fashion. In Textile Outlook International; Anson, R., Ed., Textiles Intelligence Ltd.: Wilmslow, UK, 2007; pp. 11-36.
52. Hines, T. Trends in textile global supply chains. Textiles 2010, 37, 18-20.
53. Pfeifer, M.O. Fast and Furious. Lat. Trade 2007, 15, 14.
54. Hines, T. Globalization: Global markets and global supplies. In Fashion Marketing Contemporary Issues, 2nd ed., Hines, T., Bruce, M., Eds., Butterworth-Heinemann: Oxford, UK, 2007.
55. Where Does Discarded Clothing Go? Available online: https://www.theatlantic.com/business/archive/2014/07/where-does-discarded-clothing-go/374613/(accessed on 10 April 2017).
56. Fast Fashion and the Environment. Available online: http://www.isfoundation.com/news/fast-fashionand- environment (accessed on 10 April 2017).
57. Thomas, S. From green blur to ecofashion: Fashioning an ecolexicon. Fash. Theory J. Dress Body Cult. 2008, 12, 525-540.
58. Fletcher, K. Slow fashion: An invitation for systems change. Fash. Pract. 2010, 2, 259-266.
59. H&M Conscious Action Sustainability Report. Available online: http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/reports/Conscious%20Actions%20Sustainability%20Report% 202013_en.pdf (accessed on 10 April 2017).
60. Behind the Label: H&M's Conscious Collection. Available online: http://ecosalon.com/behind-the-labelhms- conscious-collection/(accessed on 22 June 2017).
61. Cline, E.L. Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion; Penguin Group: New York, NY, USA, 2012.
62. Clark, H. Slow + Fashion-An oxymoron-Or a promise for the future.. ? Fash. Theory 2008, 12, 427-446.
63. Kuusk, K; Oscar, T., Geert, L., Stephan, W. Crafting smart textiles-A meaningful way towards societal sustainability in the fashion field? Nord. Text. J. 2012, 1, 6-15.
64. Green Generation: Millennials Say Sustainability Is a Shopping Priority. Available online: http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/news/2015/green-generation-millennials-say-sustainabilityis- a-shopping-priority.html (accessed on 5 November 2015).
65. Brown, S. Eco Fashion; Laurence King: London, UK, 2010.
66. Hartmann, P., Ibáñez, V.A., Sainz, F.J.F. Green branding effects on attitude: Functional versus emotional positioning strategies. Market. Intell. Plan. 2005, 23, 9-29.
67. Aaker, D.A. Building Strong Brands; The Free Press: New York, NY, USA, 1996.
68. Beard, N.D. The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: A luxury niche or mass-market reality? Fash. Theory 2008, 12, 447-468.
69. Charter, M. Greener Marketing; Greenleaf Publishing: Sheffield, UK, 1992.
70. What Is Ecofashion? After Food, Clothing Is the Area of Consumerism that Has the Largest Impact on the Environment. But Is It Possible for Consumers to Make Better Environmental Choices, or Does the Responsibility Rest with the Fashion Industry? Available online: https://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-178630741.html (accessed on 5 April 2017).
71. Joergens, C. Ethical fashion: Myth or future trend? J. Fash. Mark. Manag. Int. J. 2006, 10, 360-371.
72. Shen, B., Wang, Y., Lo, C.K.Y., Shum, M. The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behavior. J. Fash. Mark. Manag. Int. J. 2012, 16, 234-245.
73. Lee, K. Making environmental communications meaningful to female adolescents: A study in Hong Kong. Sci. Commun. 2008, 30, 147-176.
74. Van de Velde, L., Verbeke, W., Popp, M., Van Huylenbroeck, G. The importance of message framing for providing information about sustainability and environmental aspects of energy. Energy Policy 2010, 38, 5541-5549.
75. Husvedt, G., Dickson, M. Consumer likelihood of purchasing organic cotton apparel: Influences of attitudes and self-identity. J. Fash. Mark. Manag. 2009, 13, 49-65.
76. Yoo, J.J., Divita, L., Kim, H.Y. Environmental awareness on bamboo product purchase intentional: Do consumption values impact green consumption? Int. J. Fash. Des. Technol. Educ. 2013, 6, 27-34.
77. Towards the Circular Economy Vol. 2: Opportunities for the Consumer Goods Sector. Available online: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/TCE_Report-2013.pdf (accessed on 5 April 2017).
78. Choi, T.-M., Cheng, T.C.E. Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain Management from Sourcing to Retailing; Springer International Publishing: Cham, Switzerland, 2015.
79. The Worn, the Torn, the Wearable: Textile Recycling in Union Square. Available online: http://bada.hb.se/bitstream/2320/12345/1/NJ2012_Nr2_DG_1209_redigerad%20upp.pdf (accessed on 5 April 2017).
80. Cervellon, M.-C., Carey, L., Harms, T. Something old, something used: Determinants of women's purchase of vintage fashion vs. second-hand fashion. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2012, 40, 956-974.
81. Carrigan, M., Moraes, C., McEachern, M. From conspicuous to considered fashion: A harm-chain approach to the responsibilities of luxury-fashion businesses. J. Mark. Manag. 2013, 29, 1277-1307.
82. Denegri-Knott, J., Molesworth, M. I'll sell this and I'll buy them that': eBay and the management of possessions as stock. J. Consum. Behav. 2009, 8, 305-315.
83. Guiot, D., Roux, D. A second-hand shoppers' motivation scale: Antecedents, consequences and implications for retailers. J. Retail. 2010, 86, 355-371.
84. Joung, H.-M., Park-Poaps, H. Factors motivating and influencing clothing disposal behaviours. Int. J. Consum. Stud. 2013, 37, 105-111.
85. Roux, D., Korchia, M. Am I what I wear? An exploratory study of symbolic meanings associated with secondhand clothing. Adv. Consum. Res. 2006, 33, 29-35.
86. Turunen, L.L.M., Leipämaaleskinen, H. Pre-loved luxury: identifying the meanings of second-hand luxury possessions. J. Prod. Brand Manag. 2015, 24, 57-65.
87. Gerval, O. Fashion: Concept to Catwalk; Firefly Books: Buffalo, NY, USA, 2010.
88. H&M Group Sustainability Report 2016. Available online: http://sustainability.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/CSR/2016%20Sustainability%20report/HM_group_SustainabilityReport_2016_ FullReport_en.pdf (accessed on 5 April 2017).
89. Rogers, D.S., Tibben-Lembke, R. An examination of reverse logistics practices. J. Bus. Logist. 2001, 22, 129-148.
90. Carter, C.R., Ellram, L.M. Reverse logistics: A review of the literature and framework for future investigation. J. Bus. Logist. 1998, 19, 85-102.
91. Wang, C.X., Webster, S. Markdown money contracts for perishable goods with clearance pricing. Eur. J. Oper. Res. 2009, 196, 1113-1122.
92. Kurata, H., Yue, X. Trade promotion mode choice and information sharing in fashion retail supply chains. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 2008, 114, 507-519.
93. Janakiraman, N., Syrdal, H.A., Freling, R. The effect of return policy leniency on consumer purchase and return decisions: A meta-analytic review. J. Retail. 2016, 92, 226-235.
94. Bonifield, C., Cole, C., Schultz, R.L. Product returns on the Internet: A case of mixed signals? J. Bus. Res. 2010, 63, 1058-1065.
95. Griffis, S.E., Rao, S., Goldsby, T.J., Niranjan, T.T. The customer consequences of returns in online retailing: An empirical analysis. J. Oper. Manag. 2012, 30, 282-294.
96. Hjort, K., Lantz, B. (R) e-tail borrowing of party dresses: An experimental study. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2012, 40, 997-1012.
97. Pei, Z., Paswan, A., Yan, R. E-tailer's return policy, consumer's perception of return policy fairness and purchase intention. J. Retail. Consum. Serv. 2014, 21, 249-257.
98. Wood, S.L. Remote purchase environments: The influence of return policy leniency on two-stage decision processes. J. Mark. Res. 2001, 38, 157-169.
99. Lantz, B., Hjort, K. Real e-customer behavioural responses to free delivery and free returns. Electron. Commer. Res. 2013, 13, 183-198.
100. Mukhopadhyay, S.K., Setaputra, R. A dynamic model for optimal design quality and return policies. Eur. J. Oper. Res. 2007, 180, 1144-1154.
101. Hjort, K., Lantz, B. The impact of returns policies on profitability: A fashion e-commerce case. J. Bus. Res. 2016, 69, 4980-4985.
102. Chircu, A.M., Mahajan, V. Managing electronic commerce retail transaction costs for customer value. Decis. Support Syst. 2006, 42, 898-914.
103. Yan, R. Product categories, returns policy and pricing strategy for e-marketers. J. Prod. Brand Manag. 2009, 18, 452-460.
104. Strauss, J., Frost, R. E-Marketing, 2nd ed., Prentice-Hall: Englewood Cliffs, NJ, USA, 2001.
105. Marciniak, R., Bruce, M. Identification of UK fashion retailer use of websites. Int. J. Retail Distrib. Manag. 2004, 32, 386-393.
106. Jones, P., Clarke-Hill, C., Hillier, D. (R)etailing in the UK. Mark. Intell. Plan. 2002, 20, 229-233.
107. Barsh, J., Crawford, B., Grosso, C. How e-tailing can rise from the ashes. McKinsey Q. 2000, 3, 98-109. Available online: https://www.questia.com/library/journal/1G1--64333807/how-e-tailing-can-rise-fromthe- ashes (accessed on 5 April 2017).
108. Marshall, P., Mackay, J. An emergent framework to support visioning and strategy formulation for EC. INFOR J. 2002, 40, 3-22.
109. Jeffcoate, J., Chappell, C., Feindt, S. Best practice in SME adoption of e-commerce. Benchmarking Int. J. 2002, 9, 122-132.
110. Connolly, J., Prothero, A. Green consumption life-politics, risk and contradictions. J. Consum. Cult. 2008, 8, 117-145.
111. Gibbons, C; Tanya, B; Gillian, L. Sustainability in Emerging Markets: Lessons from South Africa. Available online: http://www.cimaglobal.com/Documents/Thought_leadership_docs/Sustainability_emerging_ markets.pdf (accessed on 15 June 2017).
112. Doh, J.P., Littell, B., Quigley, N.R. CSR and sustainability in emerging markets: Societal, institutional, and organizational influences. Organ. Dyn. 2015, 44, 112-120.
113. Maccarthy, B.L., Jayarathne, P.G.S.A. Sustainable collaborative supply networks in the international clothing industry: A comparative analysis of two retailers. Prod. Plan. Control 2012, 23, 252-268.
114. Battaglia, M., Bianchi, L., Frey, M., Passetti, E. Sustainability reporting and corporate identity: Action research evidence in an Italian retailing cooperative. Bus. Ethics A Eur. Rev. 2015, 24, 52-72.
115. De Brito, M.P.S., Carbone, V., Blanquart, C.M. Towards a sustainable fashion retail supply chain in Europe: Organisation and performance. Int. J. Prod. Econ. 2008, 114, 534-553.
116. Connolly, J., Shaw, D. Identifying fair trade in consumption choice. J. Strateg. Mark. 2006, 14, 353-368.
117. Indvik, L. Why Is It Taking Fashion So Long to Get on Board with Sustainability? Available online: http://www.fashionista.com (accessed on 24 May 2016).
118. Ritch, E., Schröder, M., Brennan, C., Pretious, M. Sustainable consumption and the retailer: Will fashion ethics follow food? In Readings and Cases in Sustainable Marketing: A strategic Approach to Social Responsibility; D'Souza, C., Taghian, M, Eds., Tilde University Press: Prahran, Australia, 2011; pp. 176-198.
119. Benedetto, C.A.D. Corporate social responsibility as an emerging business model in fashion marketing. J. Glob. Fash. Mark. 2017.