Rewriting the village: Geographies of food and belonging in Clovelly, Australia

Cultural Geographies

Volumn 9, Issue 4, 2002, Pages 373-388

  Duruz, Jean ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA   (Australia)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 84993709450     PISSN: 14744740     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1191/1474474002eu249oa     Document Type: Article

References (50)

1. M. Wark, ‘Proustian recipe for urban life’, Australian (29 Apr. 1998), p. 42.
2. M. Wark, Celebrities, culture and cyberspace: the light on the hill in a postmodern world (Annandale, NSW, Pluto Press, 1999), p. 243.
3. Hage refers to ‘multiculturalism of availability’ in G. Hage, ‘At home in the entrails of the west’, in H. Grace, G. Hage, L. Johnson, J. Langsworth and M. Symonds, Home/world: space, community and marginality in Sydney's west (Annandale, NSW, Pluto Press, 1997), p. 132; Jacobs's ‘secret geographies’ is from the title of her article, J.M. Jacobs, ‘Resisting reconciliation: the secret geographies of (post)colonial Australia’, in S. Pile and M. Keith, eds, Geographies of resistance (London, Routledge, 1997), pp. 203-18.
4. M. de Certeau, The practice of everyday life (Berkeley, University of California Press, 1984), pp. xiv-v.
5. Wark, ‘Proustian recipe for urban life’, p. 42.
6. Informally structured interviews were carried out during Apr. 1998-Jan. 1999 with each of a small group of women who currently live in Clovelly, Sydney, or who work there in small foodrelated businesses. The group is a diverse one, with women differing from each other in any number of ways, e.g. in terms of age, class, ethnicity, sexual orientation and marital status, number of children, ages of children, nature of paid work, years lived in Clovelly.
7. A. Game, Undoing the social: towards a deconstructive sociology (Milton Keynes, Open University Press, 1991), pp. 174, 180-2.
8. Australian Bureau of Statistics, Basic community profile, Catalogue No. 2020.0 (2031-POA) (Canberra, Australian Government Publishing Service, 1997), table B01.
9. P. Laslett, The world we have lost (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1969).
10. P. Bishop, An archetypal Constable: national identity and the geography of nostalgia (London, Athlone, 1995), pp. 52-3; see also D. Bell, ‘Anti-idyll: rural horror’, in P. Cloke and J. Little, eds, Contested countryside cultures: otherness, marginalization and rurality (London, Routledge, 1997), p. 95.
11. J. Duruz, ‘Cuisine nostalgie: tourism's romance with “the rural” ‘, Communal/plural 7 (1999), pp. 97-109; H. Mackay, Reinventing Australia: the mind and mood of Australia in the 90s (Pymble, NSW, Angus & Robertson, 1993), pp. 211-14; ‘Sea change’, New idea (21 Aug. 1999), pp. 39-45. Note that Sea change has been one of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation's most popular television series. Its central character is a female corporate lawyer who ‘escapes’ the city to become a magistrate in a small coastal community. On retailing, consumption and nostalgia more specifically, see K. Humphery, Shelf life: supermarkets and the changing cultures of consumption (Cambridge, Cambridge University Press, 1998), p. 184; D. Miller, P. Jackson, N. Thrift, B. Holbrook and M. Rowlands, Shopping, place and identity (London, Routledge, 1998), p. 123.
12. Interview with Anna Millhouse, transcript, pp. 1, 11, 42.
13. B. Kingston, ‘Are we what we eat?’, in D. Headon, J. Hooton and D. Horne, eds, The abundant culture: meaning and significance in everyday Australia (St Leonards, NSW, Allen & Unwin, 1994), pp. 124-5; M. Symons, The shared table: ideas for Australian cuisine (Canberra, Australian Government Publishing Service, 1993), pp. 9, 236; J. Duruz, ‘Food as nostalgia: eating the fifties and sixties’, Australian historical studies 113 (1999), pp. 236-9.
14. Humphery, Shelf life, pp. 72, 83, 118, 207; see also B. Kingston, Basket, bag and trolley: a history of shopping in Australia (Melbourne, Oxford University Press, 1994), pp. 88, 92-3, 123.
15. R. Bowlby, ‘Supermarket futures’, in P. Falk and C. Campbell, eds, The shopping experience (London, Sage, 1997), p. 96. See also pp. 97-100, 107-9.
16. For discussion of ‘cuisine’ as ‘local’ foods and relationships, see S. W. Mintz, Tasting food, tasting freedom: excursions into eating, culture and the past (Boston, Beacon Press, 1996), pp. 97-8. In terms of contrasting ‘supermarket’ and ‘village’ cultures, interestingly, Bowlby argues that in Britain, increasingly, the historical opposition of supermarket and corner grocery store is being dissolved by including specialist shops under the same roof as the core supermarket. Hence, supermarkets are ‘coming to be all shops to all people’. Bowlby, ‘Supermarket futures’, p. 108.
17. Symons, The shared table, pp. 14-19, 45-7.
18. R. Hurst and J. Lawrence ‘The sensual science of everyday life: setting a place for the beginning design student’, paper presented at the 16th National Conference on the Design Student, Las Vegas, University of Nevada, 1999, TS, p. 9.
19. Interview transcript, p. 5.
20. Symons, The shared table, pp. 7-13; J. Newton, Wogfood: an oral history with recipes (Milsons Point, NSW, Random House, 1996), p. 5. Note that Symons does not dispute the changes but rather the attribution of these primarily to the increasing migrant presence. Note also that Newton justifies his use of ‘wog’ - regarded in Australia as a form of racist abuse, historically levelled at migrants from southern Europe and the Mediterranean - as a term that has been reclaimed and celebrated: ‘a term of affection, a tribal word to reaffirm common backgrounds and experiences’ (pp. 2, 3).
21. G. Reekie, Temptations: sex, selling and the department store (St Leonards, NSW, Allen & Unwin, 1993), p. 4.
22. T. Bennett, ‘The shape of the past’, in G. Turner, ed., Nation, culture, text: Australian cultural and media studies (London, Routledge, 1993), p. 87.
23. Pers. comm., Eileen Price, Treasurer, Randwick and Distict Historical Society, July, 1999; A Randwick ramble, part I: Coogee and Clovelly (Randwick, NSW, Randwick & District Historical Society, 1994).
24. J. Sands, Sands’ Sydney and New South Wales directory 1932-3: suburban directory (Sydney, 1933).
25. Interview with Dot Ryan, transcript, pp. 3-4.
26. Interview with Colette Leong, transcript, pp. 36, 79.
27. Interview with Anna Millhouse, transcript, p. 6.
28. L. Law, ‘Home cooking: Filipino women and geographies of the senses in Hong Kong’, Ecumene: a journal of cultural geographies 8 (2001), p. 266.
29. At the time of submission, the building in which one of the cafés was situated has just been demolished. A building containing apartments and a shopfront to the street is now being constructed on the same site. At this point, it is not known whether this commercial space will continue to operate as a café or other food-related business.
30. Transcript, p. 25.
31. Interview with Dot Ryan, transcript, p. 18.
32. For discussion of the ‘new middle class’ and its ‘lifestyles’, see M. Featherstone, Consumer culture and postmodernism (London, Sage, 1991), pp. 18, 19.
33. Hage, ‘At home in the entrails of the west’, p. 118.
34. E. Wilson, ‘Looking backward, nostalgia and the city’, in S. Westwood and J. Williams, eds, Imagining cities: scripts, signs, memory (London, Routledge, 1997), p. 136.
35. E. Wilson, The contradictions of culture: cities, culture, women (London, Sage, 2001), p. 102; Wilson, ‘Looking backward, nostalgia and the city’, p. 132. See also pp. 134, 136.
36. Interview transcript, pp. 38-9.
37. For discussion of middle-class domestication/colonization of the streets and other city spaces, see S. Zukin, The cultures of cities (Cambridge, Mass., Blackwell, 1995), pp. iv, 29-32; P. Jackson, ‘Domesticating the street: the contested spaces of the high street and the mall’, in N. R. Fyfe, ed., Images of the street: planning, identity and control in public space (London, Routledge, 1998), p. 80.
38. Interview transcript, p. 24.
39. Zukin, The cultures of cities, pp. 2, 27-32.
40. In regard to security measures in shopping malls and gated suburbs, see, respectively, Featherstone, Consumer culture and postmodernism, p. 25, and J. Hillier and P. McManus, ‘Pull up the drawbridge: fortress mentality in the suburbs’, in K. Gibson and S. Watson, eds, Metropolis now: planning and the urban in contemporary Australia (Annandale, NSW, Pluto Press, 1994), p. 99.
41. Wilson, ‘Looking backward, nostalgia and the city’, pp. 133-5.
42. J. Jacobs, ‘The uses of sidewalks’ (first published 1961), in P. Kasinitz, ed., Metropolis: centre and symbol of our times (Basingstoke, Macmillan, 1995), p. 125.
43. Interview transcript, pp. 2-3.
44. J. Binnie, ‘Trading places: consumption, sexuality and the production of queer space’, in D. Bell and G. Valentine, eds, Mapping desire: geographies of sexualities (London, Routledge, 1995), pp. 187-8; P. Murphy and S. Watson, Surface city: Sydney at the millennium (Annandale, NSW, Pluto Press, 1997), p. 76.
45. Wilson, ‘Looking backward, nostalgia and the city’, pp. 138-9.
46. T. Edensor, ‘The culture of the Indian street’, in Fyfe, Images of the street, p. 220.
47. For a discussion of consumers’ knowledge of food biographies, see I. Cook, P. Crang and M. Thorpe, ‘Biographies and geographies: consumer understandings of the origins of food’, British food journal 100 (1998), pp. 162-7.
48. Wilson, ‘Looking backward, nostalgia and the city’, pp. 132; Wilson, The contradictions of culture, p. 101.
49. Law, ‘Home cooking’, p. 266.
50. Edensor, referring to Simmel, in ‘The culture of the Indian street’, p. 220.