Waves

Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series

Volumn 14, Issue , 2005, Pages 1069-1074

  Masselink, Gerhard ^a  

^a NONE

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 84981287605     PISSN: 13884360     EISSN: 1871756X     Source Type: Book Series    
DOI: None     Document Type: Chapter

References (21)

1. Airy, G.B., 1845. On tides and waves. Encyclopaedia Metropolitana, Volume 5. London: B. Fellowes.
2. Battjes, J.A., 1974. Surf similarity. Proceedings of the 14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, pp. 466–480.
3. Boussinesq, J., 1872. Théorie des ondes et de remous qui se propagent le long d’un canal rectangulaire horizontal, en communiquant au liquide contenu dans ce danal des vitesses sensiblement paralleles de la surfaceau fond. Journal de Mathematique Pures et Appliquées, 17: 55–108.
4. CERC, 1984. Shore Protection Manual. Vicksburg: Coastal Engineering Research Center,Waterway Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers. Vicksburg, Mississippi, USA.
5. Dean, R.G., 1965. Stream function representation of nonlinear ocean waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 70: 4561–4572.
6. Galvin, C.J., 1968. Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research, 73: 3651–3659.
7. Hasselmann, K., Ross, D.B., Muller, P., and Sell, W., 1976. A parametric wave prediction model. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 6: 200–228.
8. Hunt, J.N., 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. Journal of Waterways, Ports, Coastal Oceans Division, 105: 457–459.
9. IAHR, 1989. List of sea-state parameters. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 115: 793–808.
10. Kinsman, B., 1965. Wind Waves. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall.
11. Komar, P.D., 1998. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall.
12. Komar, P.D., and Gaughan, M.K., 1972. Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction. Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, pp. 405–418.
13. Korteweg, D.J., and de Vries, G., 1895. On the change of form of long waves advancing in a rectangular canal, and on a new type of long stationary wave. Philosophical Magazine, Series 5, 39: 422–443.
14. Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1952. On the statistical distribution of the height of sea waves. Journal of Marine Research, 11: 245–266.
15. Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1969. A nonlinear mechanism for generation of sea waves. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, Series A, 311: 371–389.
16. Longuet-Higgins, M.S., and Stewart, R.W., 1964. Radiation stresses in water waves—a physical discussion with applications. Deep-Sea Research, 11: 529–562.
17. Massel, S.R., 1996. Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction. Singapore: World Scientific.
18. Miles, J., 1957. On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 3: 185–204.
19. Phillips, O.M., 1957. On the generation of wind waves by turbulent wind. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2: 417–445.
20. Stewart, R.W., 1967. Mechanics of the air–sea interface. Physics of Fluids, 10 (Supplement): 547–555.
21. Stokes, G.G., 1847. On the theory of oscillatory waves. Transactions Cambridge Philosophical Society, 8: 441.