Putting on appearances gender and advertising

Putting On Appearances: Gender and Advertising

Volumn , Issue , 2010, Pages 1-219

  Barthel, Diane ^a  

^a NONE

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EID: 84902754614     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
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References (196)

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2. Karl Marx, "The Fetishism of Commodities", in Paul Connerton, ed., Critical Sociology: Selected Readings (Harmondsworth, England: Penguin, 1976), p. 75.
3. Georg Simmel, The Philosophy of Money, trans. Tom Bottomore and David Frisby (London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1978), p. 321.
4. Fernand Braudel, The Structures of Everyday Life, vol. 1, Civilization and Capitalism 15th-18th Century, trans. Sian Reynolds (New York: Harper and Row, 1979).
5. Charles Horton Cooley, Life and the Student: Roadside Notes on Human Nature, Society, and Letters (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1927), p. 200.
6. Francesco Alberoni, Falling in Love, trans. Lawrence Venuti (New York: Random House, 1984).
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8. Richard Sennett, The Fall of Public Man: On the Social Psychology of Capitalism (New York: Vintage, 1974).
9. Christopher Lasch, The Culture of Narcissism: American Life in an Age of Diminishing Expectations (New York: Warner Books, 1979).
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11. Michael Schudson, Advertising, The Uneasy Persuasion: Its Dubious Impact on American Society (New York: Basic Books, 1984).
12. C. Wright Mills, The Sociological Imagination (New York: Oxford University Press, 1959).
13. Roland Marchand, Advertising the American Dream: Making Way for Modernity, 1920-1940 (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1985), pp. 32-68 passim.
14. David Ogilvy, Confessions of an Advertising Man (New York: Atheneum, 1966), p. 96.
15. Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (New York: B. W, Huebsch, 1919).
16. E. S. Turner, The Shocking History of Advertising! (London: Michael Joseph, 1952), p. 213.
17. Jean Baudrillard, La Societe de consommation: Ses mythes, ses structures (Paris: S. G. P. P., 1970), p. 213.
18. John Berger, Ways of Seeing (London: British Broadcasting Co., 1972), pp. 45-46.
19. Pamela L. Alreck, Robert E. Settle, and Michael A. Belch, "Who Responds to 'Gendered' Ads and How?" Journal of Advertising Research 22, No. 2(April-May 1982):25-32.
20. Witold Rybcznski, Home: A Short History of an Idea (New York: Viking, 1986) :
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22. Gaye Tuchrnan, Arlene Kaplan Daniels, and James Benet, eds., Hearth and Home: Images of Women in the Mass Media (New York: Oxford University Press, 1978).
23. Simone de Beauvoir, The Second Sex, trans. H. M. Parshley (London: A Four Square Book, 1960), p. 29.
24. Susan Brownmiller, Femininity (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1984), p. 14.
25. Elaine Hatfield and Susan Sprecher, Mirror Mirror⋯:The Importance of Looks in Everyday Life (Albany: State University of New York Press, 1986).
26. Glenn H. Elder, Jr., "Appearance and Education in Marriage Mobility", American Sociological Review 34(1969):519-33.
27. Georgia Dullea, "On Corporate Ladder, Beauty Can Hurt", New York Times. June 3, 1985, p. C13.
28. Hatfield and Sprecher, Mirror Mirror.
29. Linda Wells, "The Bloom of Youth", New York Times Magazine, May 5, 1987, p. 86;
30. New York Times, April 2, 1987, p. C2.
31. Irma Kurtz, Malespeak (London: Jonathan Cape, 1986), p. 80.
32. Rita Freedman, Beauty Bound (Lexington, Mass.: Lexington Books, 1985), p. x.
33. Nicholas D. Kristof, "Politics and the Art of Looking Good", New York Times, April 11, 1987, p. 4.
34. "Thoreau Out the First Bali, Bart", Gentleman's Quarterly, April 1987, pp. 67, 70.
35. Schudson, Uneasy Persuasion.
36. Daniel Pope, The Making of Modern Advertising (New York: Basic Books, 1983);
37. Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers: A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York: William Morrow, 1984);
38. Schudson, The Uneasy Persuasion;
39. Marchand, American Dream;
40. Ronald Berman, Advertising and Social Control (Beverly Hills, Calif.: Sage Publications, 1981);
41. Erving Goffman, Gender Advertisements (London: Macmillan, 1976);
42. Richard Wightman Fox and T. J. Jackson Lears, eds., The Culture of Consumption: Critical Essays in American History, 1880-1980 (New York: Pantheon, 1983);
43. Warren I. Susman, Culture as History: The Transformation of American Society in the Twentieth Century (New York; Pantheon, 1984);
44. Daniel J. Boorstin, Image: A Guide to Pseudo-Events in America (New York: Antheneum, 1962).
45. Neil McKendrick, John Brewer, and J. H. Plumb, The Birth of Consumer Society: The Commercialization of Eighteenth Century England (Bloommgton: Indiana University Press, 1982).
46. Turner, Shocking History of Advertising, p. 25.
47. Lois Banner, American Beauty (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1983).
48. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery (New York: Schocken, 1976);
49. Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York: Random House, 1981);
50. Valerie Steele, Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Through the Jazz Age (New York: Oxford University Press, 1985);
51. Arme Hollander, Seeing Through Clothes (New York: Viking Press, 1980);
52. Elizabeth Wilson, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London: Virago, 1985).
53. Rosalind Williams, Dream Worlds (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1982);
54. Gunther Barth, City People: The Culture of the Modern City in Nineteenth-Century America (New York: Oxford University Press, 1980).
55. Susan Porter Benson, Counter Cultures: Saleswomen, Managers and Customers in American Department Stores, 1890-1940 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1986).
56. Marchand, American Dream pp. 25-69, passim.
57. James R. Adams, Sparks Off My Anvil: From Thirty Years in Advertising (New York: Harper and Bros. 1958), p. 37.
58. John Straiton, Of Women and Advertising (Toronto: McClelland and Stewart, 1984), p. 10.
59. Fox and Lears, Culture of Consumption.
60. Ellen K. Rothman, Hands and Hearts: A History of Courtship in America (New York: Basic Books, 1984).
61. Bloch, "The Business of Friendly Persuasion", p. 12.
62. Stuart Ewen, Captains of Consciousness: Advertising and the Social Roots of Consumer Culture (New York: McGraw-Hill, 1976.
63. Schudson, Uneasy Persuasion, pp. 175-76.
64. Wilson B. Key, Subliminal Seduction (New York: New American Library, 1974).
65. Lucy Hughes Hailet, "Why Perfume Ads Stink", Guardian, April 1, 1986, p. 17.
66. Philip H. Dougherty, "Cold Water at Florida Gathering", New York Times March 27, 1987, p. D14.
67. Bostock, in Bloch, Business of Friendly Persuasion. p. 16.
68. David Ogilvy, Confessions, p. 150.
69. Adams, Sparks, p. 169.
70. Edward Buxton, Promise Them Anything: The Inside Story of the Madison Avenue Power Struggle (New York: Stein and Day, 1972), p. 210.
71. Ogilvy, Confessions, p. 159.
72. Straiton, Women and Advertising, p. 156.
73. Buxton, Promise Them Anything, p. 51.
74. New York Times, December 14, 1986, sect. 6, p. 59.
75. OgiJvy, Confessions, p. 100.
76. William Leiss, Stephen Kline, and Sut Jhally, Social Communication in Advertising: Persons, Products, and Images of Weil-Being (New York: Methuen, 1986). p. 34.
77. Ogilvy, Confessions, p. 20.
78. As Adams wrote, "Life is grist for the creative advertising man, just as it is for the writer of fiction. Wherever he goes and whatever he does, he should keep his eyes and ears open, and paper and pencil as close by as possible" (Sparks, p. 49).
79. Straiton, Women and Advertising, p. 40.
80. Arthur Koestler, The Act of Creation (New York: Macmillan, 1964).
81. John Berger, Ways of Seeing (London: British Broadcasting Co., 1972), p. 139.
82. Sara Rimer, "Odes to Jell-O: The Bards of Madison Avenue", New York Times, April 28, 1987, pp. B1-2.
83. Jessie Bernard, The Female World (New York: The Free Press, 1981).
84. Jorge Arditi, "Content Analysis and Textual Interpretation", paper presented at the annual meeting of the Eastern Sociological Society, May 1-3, 1987, Boston.
85. Arthur Asa Berger, Media Analysis Techniques (Beverly Hills, Calif.: Sage Publications, 1982), p. 35.
86. Jean Baudrillard, "The Ecstasy of Communication", in Hal Foster, ed., Post-Modern Culture (London: Pluto Press, 1983), p. 126.
87. Georges Bataille, Visions of Excess: Selected Writings, 1927-1939, ed. Allan Stoeld, trans. Allan Stoekl with Carl R. Levitt and Donald M, Leslie, Jr. (Manchester, England: Manchester University Press, 1985).
88. Alice Embree, "Media Images 1: Madison Avenue Brainwashing-The Facts", in Robin Morgan, ed. Sisterhood is Powerful: An Anthology of Writings from the Women's Liberation Movement (New York: Random House, 1970), pp. 175-90;
89. Janice Winship, "Advertising in Women's Magazines: 1956-1974", occasional paper, Women's Series 59, Centre for Contemporary Cultural Studies, University of Birmingham, England, 1980;
90. Gaye Tuchman, Arlene Kaplan Daniels, and James Benet, eds., Hearth and Home: Images of Women in the Mass Media (New York: Oxford University Press, 1978).
91. Ruth Schwartz Cowan, More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household from the Open Hearth to the Microwave (New York: Basic Books, 1983).
92. Susan Brownmiller, Femininity (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1984);
93. Freedman, Beauty Bound;
94. Robin Lakoff and Raquel Scherr, Face Value: The Politics of Beauty (London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1984).
95. Kim Chernin, The Obsession: Reflections on the Tyranny of Slenderness (New York: Harper and Row, 1981)
96. TheHungry Self: Daughters and Mothers, Eating and Identity (New York: Times Books, 1985).
97. Bill Katz and Linda Sternberg Katz, Magazines for Libraries, 5th ed. (New York: R. R. Bowker, 1986), p. 993.
98. Advertising Age, February 16, 1987, p. 34.
99. Katz and Katz, Magazines, p. 989.
100. Edmund F. Santa Vicca on men's magazines, in Katz and Katz, Magazines, pp. 703-5.
101. Christine Buci-Glucksmann, "Catastrophic Utopia: The Feminine as Allegory of the Modern", in Catherine Gallagher and Thomas Laqueur, eds., The Making of the Modern Body: Sexuality and Society in the Nineteenth Century (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987).
102. Roland Barthes, The Fashion System, trans. Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York: Hill and Wang, 1983).
103. Linda Wells, "The Bloom of Youth", New York Times Magazine, May 5, 1987, p. 86.
104. In a Different Voice: Psychological Theory and Women's Development (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1982).
105. Pat Sloan, "Alfin Skin Line Ignites Controversy", Advertising Age, February 23, 1987, p. 32.
106. William R. Greer, "F. D. A. Disputes Anti-Aging Cream Claims", New York Times, May 9, 1987, p. 56.
107. Hatfield and Sprecher, Mirror Mirror, p. 288.
108. Jane Porcino, Growing Older, Getting Better: A Handbook for Women in the Second Half of Life (Reading, Mass.: Addison-Wesley, 1983).
109. Philip H. Dougherty, "Celebrity Brokers: A Busy Time", New York Times, March 2, 1987, p. D9.
110. Claude Atkin and Martin Block, "Effectiveness of Celebrity Endorsers", Journal of Advertising Research 23(February-March 1983):57-61.
111. Marchand, American Dream, p, 98.
112. Laurie Werner, "Megabuck Celebrities in the Halls of Commerce", Cosmopolitan, February 1987, p. 198.
113. Jeannette Kupfermann, The MsTaken Body: A Fresh Perspective on the Women's Movement (London: Granada, 1979), p. 43.
114. Mark Salmon, "Beauty as Elite Stigma: Notes on an Ambivalent Identity", paper presented at the annual meeting of the American Sociological Association, September 1983, Detroit.
115. Peter Carlson, "Swept Away By Her Sadness", People, October 24, 1983, pp. 34-37.
116. Tarda Modleski, Loving With a Vengeance: Mass-Produced Fantasies For Women (New York: Methuen. 1982).
117. Rothman, Hands and Hearts.
118. Modleski, Loving with a Vengeance.
119. Simone de Beauvoir, The Second Sex (New York: Random House, 1952), p. 70.
120. Walter Benjamin, "The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction", in Illuminations, ed, Hannah Arendt, trans. Harry Zohn (New York: Schocken, 1969), pp. 217-51.
121. Susan Sontag, On Photography (New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1977).
122. Jill Tweedie, In The-Name of Love (New York: Patheon, 1979)
123. Modleski, Loving With a Vengeance, p. 34.
124. Jean Baudrillard, De la Seduction (Paris: Editions Galilee, 1979), pp. 107-14.
125. Sigmund Freud, Civilization and Its Discontents, trans. James Strachey (New York: W. W. Norton, 1961).
126. Roland Barthes, The Pleasure of the Text, trans. Richard Miller (New York: Hill and Wang, 1975).
127. Northrop Frye, The Secular Scripture: A Study of the Structure of Romance (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1976).
128. John Ruskin, "Sesame and Lilies", ed. Charles W. Eliot, The Harvard Classics, vol. 28 (New York: P. F. Collier and Son, 1910), pp. 95-170.
129. Bataille, Visions of Excess, pp. 10-14.
130. Barthes, The Fashion System.
131. Mary Wollstonecraft, A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, ed. Carol H. Poston, Critical Edition Series (New York: Norton, 1976).
132. articles collected in the Utne Reader 21 (May-June 1987).
133. Judith L. Laws and Pepper Schwartz, Sexual Scripts (Lanham, Md.: University Press of America, 1982)
134. John H. Gagnon and Cathy S. Greenbtatt, Life Designs (New York: Random House, 1977).
135. Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (New York: B. W. Huebsch, 1919).
136. Mary Douglas and Baron Isherwood, The World of Goods (New York: Basic Books, 1979).
137. Georg Simmel, "The Metropolis and Mental Life", ed. Richard Sennett, Classic Essays on the Culture of Cities (New York: Prentice-Hall, 1969).
138. Berger, Ways of Seeing, pp. 132-33.
139. Georg Simmel, The Philosophy of Money, trans. Tom Bottomore and David Frisby (London: Routledge and Kegan Paul, 1978).
140. Veblen, Leisure Class, pp. 68-73.
141. Quentin Bell, On Human Finery (New York: Schocken, 1976).
142. Barthes, The Fashion System.
143. Berger, Ways of Seeing, p. 133.
144. Marchand, American Dream, pp. 77-80.
145. Liza Crihfield Dalby, Geisha (Berkeley: University of California Press, 1983).
146. Shirley Abbott, Womenfolks: Growing Up Down South (New Haven: Ticknor and Fields, 1983)
147. Anne Firor Scott, The Southern Lady: From Pedestal to Politics, 1830-1930 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1970).
148. Banner, American Beauty, p. 11.
149. Berger, Ways of Seeing, pp. 146-49.
150. Ivan Illich, Gender (New York: Pantheon, 1982).
151. Bruno Bettelheim, The Uses of Enchantment: The Meaning and Importance of Fairy Tales (New York: Alfred A, Knopf, 1976).
152. Beatrice Faust, Women, Sex and Pornography: A Controversial and Unique Study (New York: Macmilian, 1980).
153. Laurie Werner, "Megabuck Celebrities in the Halls of Commerce", Cosmopolitan, February 1987, pp. 198-201, 274, 276.
154. Judith Williamson, Consuming Passions: Politics and Images of Popular Culture (New York: M. Boyars, 1985).
155. Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, Disorderly Conduct: Visions of Gender in Victorian America (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1985).
156. Elaine Showalter, ed., These Modern Women: Autobiographical Essays from the Twenties (New York: Feminist Press, 1978).
157. Roland Barthes, Mythologies, trans, by Annette Lavey (New York: Hill and Wang, 1972 [1937]).
158. Mirra Komarovsky, "The Cultural Contradictions of Sex Roles", American Journal of Sociology 53, No, 3(1946):184-89.
159. I would recommend Paula Giddings, When and Where I Enter: The Impact of Black Women on Race and Sex in America (New York: William Morrow, 1984).
160. Marchand, American Dream.
161. Williamson, Consuming Passions.
162. Baudrillard, La societe de consummation, pp. 196-201.
163. Richard Sennett, "The Age of Self-Control", Vogue, April 1987, pp. 362-63, 398.
164. Georges Bataille, "La part maudite", in Oeuvres Completes, vol. 7 (Paris: Gallimard, 1976).
165. Julia Kristeva's Powers of Horror: An Essay on Abjection, trans. Leon S. Roudiez (New York: Columbia University Press, 1982)
166. Chernin, The Obsession and The Hungry Self.
167. Marcia Millman, Such a Pretty Face: Being Fat in America (New York: W. W. Norton, 1980).
168. Susie Orbach, Fails a Feminist Issue: The Anti-Diet Guide to Permanent Weight Loss (New York: Berkley Publishing, 1979)
169. Chernin, The Hungry Self.
170. Noelle Caskey, "Interpreting Anorexia Nervosa", in Susan Rubin Suleiman, ed., The Female Body in Western Culture: Contemporary Perspectives (Cambridge: Harvard University Press), p. 187.
171. Elaine Partnow, ed., The Quotable Woman (New York: Anchor Books, 1978), p. 142.
172. Anne Scott Beller, Fat and Thin: A Natural History of Obesity (New York: Harper and Row, 1977), p. 90.
173. Jane E. Brody, "Research Lifts Blame from Many of the Obese", New York Times, March 27, 1987, p. CI.
174. Brody, "For Women Who Haven't Gotten The Message Yet: Thin Isn't Necessarily In", New York Times, March 18. 1987, p. C4.
175. 9, Henry Fairlie, The Seven Deadly Sins Today (Notre Dame: University of Notre Dame Press, 1979), p. 155.
176. Chemin, The Hungry Self, p. 204.
177. Marchand, American Dream, pp. 276-82.
178. Partnow, Quotable Woman, p. 410.
179. Victor Turner, The Ritual Process: Structure and Anti-Structure (Chicago: Aldine, 1969).
180. Wolfgang Lederer, The Fear of Women (New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1968), p. 27.
181. Mary Douglas, Purity and Danger: An Analysis of Concepts of Pollution and Taboo (Boston: Ark, 1984), p. 3.
182. Kupfermann, The MsTaken Body, p. 57.
183. Douglas, Purity and Danger, p. 141.
184. Williamson, Consuming Passions, p. 50.
185. Partnow, Quotable Woman, p. 43
186. Mona Ozouf, La fete revolutionnaire, 1789-1799 (Paris: Gallimard, 1976).
187. Katz and Katz, Magazines, pp. 703-5.
188. John Gagnon, "Physical Strength: Once of Significance", in Joseph H. Pleck and Jack Sawyer, eds., Men and Masculinity (Englewood Cliffs, N. J.: Prentice-Hall, 1974), pp. 139-49.
189. Baudrillard, La société de consommation, pp. 144-47.
190. Todd Gitlin, "We Build Excitement", in Todd Gitlin, ed., Watching Television (New York: Pantheon, 1986), pp. 139-40.
191. C. Wright Mills, The Power Elite (New York: Oxford University Press, 1956), p. 141.
192. Diane Barthel, "A Gentleman and a Consumer: A Sociological Look at Man at His Best", paper presented at the annual meeting of the Eastern Sociological Society, March 1983, Baltimore.
193. Barbara Ehrenreich, The Hearts of Men: American Dreams and the Flight from Commitment (New York: Anchor Books 1983).
194. Stephen Fox, The Mirror Makers: A History of American Advertising and Its Creators (New York: William Morrow, 1984), p. 330.
195. Bloch, "The Business of Friendly Persuasion", p. 16.
196. Schudson, Uneasy Persuasion, pp. 209-33.