High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 1. Modeling of sand waves, flying spits, and capes

Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface

Volumn 111, Issue 4, 2006, Pages

  Ashton, Andrew D ^a,b   Murray, A Brad ^a  

^a DUKE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^b WOODS HOLE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTION   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

COASTAL EVOLUTION; NUMERICAL MODEL; SAND WAVE; SHORELINE CHANGE; SPIT;

EID: 84875225859     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699011     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2005JF000422     Document Type: Article

References (71)

1. Anderson, R. (1990), Eolian ripples as examples of self-organization in geomorphological systems, Earth Sci. Rev., 28, 77-96.
2. Ashton, A., and A. B. Murray (2003), Self-organized behavior of modeled shoreline shapes, Geophys. Res. Abstracts, 5, Abstract 07703.
3. Ashton, A., and A. B. Murray (2006), High-angle wave instability and emergent shoreline shapes: 2. Wave climate analysis and comparisons to nature, J. Geophys. Res., 111, F04012, doi:10.1029/2005JF000423.
4. Ashton, A., A. B. Murray, and O. Arnoult (2001), Formation of coastline features by large-scale instabilities induced by high-angle waves, Nature, 414, 296-300.
5. Ashton, A. D., A. B. Murray, and B. G. Ruessink (2003), Initial tests of a possible explanation for alongshore sandwaves on the Dutch coast, in 3rd IAHR Symposium on River, Coastal and Estuarine Morphodynamics, pp. 310-319, Int. Assoc. of Hydraul. Res., Madrid.
6. Bakker, W. T. (1968), A mathematical theory about sandwaves and its applications on the Dutch Wadden Isle of Vlieland, Shore Beach, 36, 4-14.
7. Bruun, P. (1954), Migrating sand waves or sand humps, with special reference to investigations carried out on the Danish North Sea coast, Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., 5th, 269-295.
8. Coco, G., D. A. Huntley, and T.J. O'Hare (2000), Investigation of a self-organization model for beach cusp formation and development, J. Geophys. Res., 105, 21,991-22,002.
9. Cowell, P. J., P. S. Roy, and R. A. Jones (1995), Simulation of large-scale coastal change using a morphological behavior model, Mar. Geol., 126, 45-61.
10. Davidson-Arnott, R. G. D., and A. G. Van Heyningen (2003), Migration and sedimentology of longshore sandwaves, Long Point, Lake Erie, Canada, Sedimentology, 50, 1123-1137.
11. Davies, J. L. (1980), Geographical Variation in Coastal Development, 2nd ed., Longman, New York.
12. Dean, R. G., and R. A. Dalrymple (2002), Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications, Cambridge Univ. Press, New York.
13. Deigaard, R., N. Dronen, J. Fredsoe, J. H. Jensen, and M. P. Jorgensen (1999), A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast, Coastal Eng., 36, 171-195.
14. de Vriend, H. J., M. Capobianco, T. Chesher, H. E. de Swart, B. Latteus, and M. J. F. Stive (1993), Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology: A review, Coastal Eng., 21, 225-267.
15. Dolan, R., and J. C. Ferm (1968), Crescentic landforms along the Atlantic Coast of the United States, Science, 159, 627-629.
16. Dolan, R., B. Hayden, and W. Felder (1979), Shoreline periodicities and edge waves, J. Geol., 87, 175-185.
17. Elfrink, B., G. Prestedge, C. B. M. Rocha, and J. Juhl (2003), Shoreline evolution due to highly oblique incident waves at Walvis Bay, Namibia, in Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Sediments 2003 [CD-ROM], World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
18. Falqués, A. (2003), On the diffusivity in coastline dynamics, Geophys. Res. Lett., 30(21), 2119, doi:10.1029/2003GL017760.
19. Falqués, A., and D. Calvete (2005), Large-scale dynamics of sandy coastlines: Diffusivity and instability, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C03007, doi:10.1029/2004JC002587.
20. Falqués, A., G. Coco, and D. A. Huntley (2000), A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 105, 24,071-24,087.
21. Fisher, R. L. (1955), Cuspate spits of Saint Lawrence Island, Alaska, J. Geol., 63, 133-142.
22. Grijm, W. (1960), Theoretical forms of shorelines, Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., 7th, 197-202.
23. Grijm, W. (1964), Theoretical forms of shorelines, Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., 9th, 219-235.
24. Guza, R. T., and D. L. Inman (1975), Edge waves and beach cusps, J. Geophys. Res., 80, 2997-3012.
25. Hallermeier, R. J. (1981), A profile zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate, Coastal Eng., 4, 253-277.
26. Hanson, H., and N. C. Kraus (1989), GENESIS: Generalized model for simulating shoreline change, report 1, Technical reference, U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn., Coastal Eng. Res. Cent, Vicksburg, Miss.
27. Holman, R. A., and A. J. Bowen (1982), Bars, bumps, and holes: Models for the generation of complex beach topography, J. Geophys. Res., 87, 457-468.
28. Hoyt, J. H., and V. J. Henry (1971), Origin of capes and shoals along the southeastern coast of the United States., Geol. Soc. Am. Bull., 82, 59-66.
29. Inman, D. L. (1987), Accretion and erosion waves on beaches, Shore Beach, 55, 61-66.
30. Jiménez, J. A., and A. Sánchez-Arcilla (1999), Modelling of barrier-spit system evolution at decadal scale, in Coastal Sediments '99, pp. 1724-1738, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
31. Jiménez, J., and A. Sánchez-Arcilla (2004), A long-term (decadal scale) evolution model for microtidal barrier systems, Coastal Eng., 51, 749-764.
32. Komar, P. D. (1971), The mechanics of sand transport on beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 76, 713-721.
33. Komar, P. D. (1973), Computer models of delta growth due to sediment input from rivers and longshore transport, Geol. Soc. Am. Bull., 84, 2217-2226.
34. Komar, P. D. (1983), Rhythmic shoreline features and their origins, in Mega-Geomorphology, edited by R. Gardner and H. Scoging, pp. 92-112, Clarendon Press, Oxford, U. K.
35. Komar, P. D. (1998), Beach Processes and Sedimentation, 2nd ed., 544 pp., Simon and Schuster, Upper Saddle River, N. J.
36. Larson, M., H. Hanson, and N. C. Kraus (1987), Analytical solutions of the one-line model of shoreline change, Tech. Rep. CERC-87-15, U.S. Army Waterw. Exp. Sm., Vicksburg, Miss.
37. Larson, M., H. Hanson, and N. C. Kraus (1997), Analytical solutions of one-line model for shoreline change near coastal structures, J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng., 123, 180-191.
38. Leatherman, S. P. (1979), Migration of Assateague Island, Maryland, by inlet and overwash processes, Geology, 104-107.
39. Leatherman, S. P. (1983), Barrier dynamics and landward migration with Holocene sea-level rise, Nature, 301, 415-417.
40. LeMehaute, E. M., and M. Soldate (1977), Mathematical modeling of shoreline evolution, Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf, 16th, 1163-1179.
41. List, J. H., and A. S. Farris (1999), Large-scale shoreline response to storms and fair weather, in Coastal Sediments '99, pp. 1324-1338, Am. Soc. of Civ. Eng., Reston, Va.
42. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. (1970), Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident waves, 1, J. Geophys. Res., 75, 6778-6789.
43. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. (1972), Recent progress in the study of longshore currents, in Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport, pp. 373-400, Elsevier, New York.
44. McNinch, J. E., and R. A. Luettich (2000), Physical processes around a cuspate foreland headland: Implications to the evolution and long-term maintenance of a cape-associated shoal, Cont. Shelf Res., 20, 2367-2389.
45. McNinch, J., and J. T. Wells (1999), Sedimentary processes and depositional history of a cape-associated shoal, Cape Lookout, North Carolina, Mar. Geol., 158, 233-252.
46. Moslow, T. F., and S. D. Heron (1981), Holocene depositional history of a microtidal cuspate foreland cape: Cape Lookout, North Carolina, Mar. Geol., 41, 251-270.
47. Murray, A. B. (2003), Contrasting the goals, strategies, and predictions associated with simplified numerical models and detailed simulations, in Prediction in Geomorphology, Geophys. Monogr. Ser., 135, edited by R. M. Iverson and P. R. Wilcock, pp. 151-165, AGU, Washington, D. C.
48. Murray, A. B., and A. Ashton (2003), Sandy coastline evolution as an example of pattern formation involving emergent structures and interactions, in Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Sediments 2003 [CD-ROM], World Sci., Hackensack, N. J.
49. Murray, A. B., and A. Ashton (2004), Extending a 1-line modeling approach to explore emergent coastline behaviors, Proc. Int. Conf. Coastal Eng., 29th, 2035-2047.
50. Ozasa, H., and A. H. Brampton (1980), Mathematical modelling of beaches backed by seawalls, Coastal Eng., 4, 47-63.
51. Pelnard-Consideré, R. (1956), Essai de theorie de l'evolution des formes de rivage en plages de sable et de galets, in 4th Journees de l'Hydraulique, Les Energies de la Mer, III, pp. 289-298, La Houille Blanche, Grenoble, France.
52. Pelnard-Consideré, R. (1984), L'Hydraulique et la maicirc;trise du littoral, paper presented at XVIII Journées de L'Hydraulique, Soc. Hydrotec. de Fr., Marseille, France.
53. Prigozhin, L. (1999), Nonlinear dynamics of aeolian sand ripples, Phys. Rev. E, 60, 729-733.
54. Riggs, S. R. (1995), Influence of inherited geologic ftamework on barrier shoreface morphology and dynamics, Mar. Geol., 126, 213-234.
55. Rosati, J. D., T. L. Walton, and K. Bodge (2002), Longshore sediment transport, in Coastal Engineering Manual, part II, Coastal Sediment Processes, edited by D. B. King, chap. III-2, U.S. Army Corps of Eng., Washington, D. C.
56. Rosen, P. S. (1975), Origin and progress of cuspate spit shorelines, Estuarine Res., 2, 77-92.
57. Ruessink, B. G., and M. C. J. L. Jeuken (2002), Dunefoot dynamics along the Dutch coast, Earth Surf. Processes Landforms, 27, 1043-1056.
58. Sánchez, M. O., M. A. Losada, and A. Baquerizo (2003), On the development of large-scale cuspate features on a semi-reflective beach: Carchuna beach, southern Spain, Mar. Geol., 198, 209-223.
59. Stewart, C. J., and R. G. D. Davidson-Arnott (1988), Morphology, formation and migration of longshore sandwaves: Long Point, Lake Erie, Canada, Mar Geol., 81, 63-77.
60. Stive, M. J. F., R. J. Nicholls, and H. J. deVriend (1991), Sea-level rise and shore nourishment: A discussion, Coastal Eng., 16, 147-163.
61. Thevenot, M. M., and N. C. Kraus (1995), Longshore sand waves at South ampton Beach, New York: Observation and numerical simulation of their movement, Mar Geol., 126, 249-269.
62. Valvo, L. M., A. B. Murray, and A. D. Ashton (2006), How does underlying geology affect coastline change? An initial modeling investigation, J. Geophys. Res., 111, F02025, doi:10.1029/2005JF000340.
63. Verhagen, H. J. (1989), Sand waves along the Dutch Coast, Coastal Eng., 13, 129-147.
64. Walton, T. L., Jr., and R. G. Dean (1973), Application of littoral drift roses to coastal engineering problems, paper presented at First Australian Conference on Coastal Engineering, Natl. Comm. on Coastal and Ocean Eng., Inst. of Eng., Sydney, N. S. W., Australia.
65. Wang, J. D., and B. LeMehaute (1980), Criterion for stability of shoreline planform, Proc. Coastal Eng. Conf., 17th, 1295-1305.
66. Wang, P., N. C. Kraus, and R. A. Davis (1998), Total longshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone: Field measurements and empirical predictions, J. Coastal Res., 14, 269-282.
67. Werner, B. T., and T. M. Fink (1993), Beach cusps as self-organized patterns, Science, 260, 968-971.
68. Werner, B. T., and G. Kocurek (1998), Bed-form dynamics: Does the tail wag the dog?, Geology, 25, 771-774.
69. Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short (1984), Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis, Mar. Geo, 56, 93-118.
70. Zenkovich, V. P. (1959), On the genesis of cuspate spits along lagoon shores, J. Geol., 67, 269-277.
71. Zenkovich, V. P. (1967), Processes of Coastal Development, Oliver and Boyd, White Plains, N. Y.