-
1
-
-
0000299793
-
A new approach to high order Boussinesq models
-
Agnon Y., Madsen P.A., Schäffer H.A. A new approach to high order Boussinesq models. J. Fluid Mech. 1999, 399:319-333.
-
(1999)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.399
, pp. 319-333
-
-
Agnon, Y.1
Madsen, P.A.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
-
2
-
-
0037562425
-
Long wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach
-
Baldock T.E., Huntley D.A. Long wave forcing by the breaking of random gravity waves on a beach. Proc. R. Soc. A 2002, 458:2177-2201.
-
(2002)
Proc. R. Soc. A
, vol.458
, pp. 2177-2201
-
-
Baldock, T.E.1
Huntley, D.A.2
-
8
-
-
84855840812
-
-
Surf zone turbulence. Ph.D. thesis, Delft Univ. of Technology.
-
Boers, M., 2005. Surf zone turbulence. Ph.D. thesis, Delft Univ. of Technology.
-
(2005)
-
-
Boers, M.1
-
9
-
-
0343775720
-
Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics. J. Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Eng
-
Bradford S.F. Numerical simulation of surf zone dynamics. J. Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Eng. ASCE 2000, 126:1-13.
-
(2000)
ASCE
, vol.126
, pp. 1-13
-
-
Bradford, S.F.1
-
10
-
-
62749193558
-
Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models
-
Briganti R., Dodd N. Shoreline motion in nonlinear shallow water coastal models. Coastal Eng. 2009, 56:495-505.
-
(2009)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.56
, pp. 495-505
-
-
Briganti, R.1
Dodd, N.2
-
11
-
-
4744356765
-
Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves: description of turbulence
-
Briganti R., Musumeci R.E., Bellotti G., Brocchini M., Foti E. Boussinesq modeling of breaking waves: description of turbulence. J. Geophys. Res. 2004, 109:C07015.
-
(2004)
J. Geophys. Res.
, vol.109
-
-
Briganti, R.1
Musumeci, R.E.2
Bellotti, G.3
Brocchini, M.4
Foti, E.5
-
12
-
-
0035360823
-
An efficient solver for nearshore flows based on the WAF method
-
Brocchini M., Bernetti R., Mancinelli A., Albertini G. An efficient solver for nearshore flows based on the WAF method. Coastal Eng. 2001, 43:105-129.
-
(2001)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.43
, pp. 105-129
-
-
Brocchini, M.1
Bernetti, R.2
Mancinelli, A.3
Albertini, G.4
-
13
-
-
2542615231
-
Topographycally controlled breaking-wave-induced macrovortices. Part 1. Widely separated breakwaters, J
-
Brocchini M., Kennedy A., Soldini L., Mancinelli A. Topographycally controlled breaking-wave-induced macrovortices. Part 1. Widely separated breakwaters, J. Fluid Mech 2004, 507:289-307.
-
(2004)
Fluid Mech
, vol.507
, pp. 289-307
-
-
Brocchini, M.1
Kennedy, A.2
Soldini, L.3
Mancinelli, A.4
-
14
-
-
0032023178
-
Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced Boussinesq approach
-
Chen Q., Madsen P.A., Schäffer H.A., Basco D.R. Wave-current interaction based on an enhanced Boussinesq approach. Coastal Eng. 1998, 33:11-39.
-
(1998)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.33
, pp. 11-39
-
-
Chen, Q.1
Madsen, P.A.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
Basco, D.R.4
-
15
-
-
0034746556
-
Large eddy simulation of breaking waves
-
Christensen E.D., Deigaard R. Large eddy simulation of breaking waves. Coastal Eng. 2001, 42:53-86.
-
(2001)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.42
, pp. 53-86
-
-
Christensen, E.D.1
Deigaard, R.2
-
16
-
-
76349112042
-
Wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation
-
Cienfuegos R., Barthélemy E., Bonneton P. Wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation. J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and Ocean Eng., ASCE 2010, 136(1):10-26.
-
(2010)
J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and Ocean Eng., ASCE
, vol.136
, Issue.1
, pp. 10-26
-
-
Cienfuegos, R.1
Barthélemy, E.2
Bonneton, P.3
-
17
-
-
56349094667
-
The BCI criterion for the initiation of breaking process in Boussinesq-type equations wave models
-
D'Alessandro F., Tomasicchio G.R. The BCI criterion for the initiation of breaking process in Boussinesq-type equations wave models. Coastal Eng. 2008, 55:1174-1184.
-
(2008)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.55
, pp. 1174-1184
-
-
D'Alessandro, F.1
Tomasicchio, G.R.2
-
19
-
-
28144441044
-
Hybrid finite-volume finite-difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations
-
Erduran K.S., Ilic S., Kutija V. Hybrid finite-volume finite-difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations. Int. J. for Numer. Methods Fluids 2005, 49:1213-1232.
-
(2005)
Int. J. for Numer. Methods Fluids
, vol.49
, pp. 1213-1232
-
-
Erduran, K.S.1
Ilic, S.2
Kutija, V.3
-
21
-
-
0016652317
-
Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone
-
Goda Y. Irregular wave deformation in the surf zone. Coast. Eng. Jpn. 1975, 18:313-326.
-
(1975)
Coast. Eng. Jpn.
, vol.18
, pp. 313-326
-
-
Goda, Y.1
-
22
-
-
77951947903
-
Dispersive Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations: some numerical results
-
Grosso G., Antuono M., Brocchini M. Dispersive Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations: some numerical results. J. Eng. Math. 2010, 67(1-2):71-84.
-
(2010)
J. Eng. Math.
, vol.67
, Issue.1-2
, pp. 71-84
-
-
Grosso, G.1
Antuono, M.2
Brocchini, M.3
-
23
-
-
0027205802
-
Directional nearshore wave propagation over a rip channel: an experiment
-
Hamm L. Directional nearshore wave propagation over a rip channel: an experiment. Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Eng 1992, 226-239.
-
(1992)
Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Eng
, pp. 226-239
-
-
Hamm, L.1
-
24
-
-
0018654987
-
Surf and run-up on a beach: A uniform bore
-
Hibberd S., Peregrine D.H. Surf and run-up on a beach: A uniform bore. J. Fluid Mech. 1979, 95(2):323-345.
-
(1979)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.95
, Issue.2
, pp. 323-345
-
-
Hibberd, S.1
Peregrine, D.H.2
-
26
-
-
0036612191
-
A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater
-
Hsu T.J., Sakakiyama T., Liu P.L.-F. A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater. Coastal Eng. 2002, 46:25-50.
-
(2002)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.46
, pp. 25-50
-
-
Hsu, T.J.1
Sakakiyama, T.2
Liu, P.L.-F.3
-
29
-
-
0027009623
-
A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations
-
Karambas Th.V., Koutitas C. A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations. Coastal Eng. 1992, 18:1-19.
-
(1992)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.18
, pp. 1-19
-
-
Karambas, T.1
Koutitas, C.2
-
30
-
-
0042427264
-
Breaking waves in the Surf and Swash Zone
-
Karambas Th.V., Tozer N.P. Breaking waves in the Surf and Swash Zone. J. Coast. Res. 2003, 19(3):514-528.
-
(2003)
J. Coast. Res.
, vol.19
, Issue.3
, pp. 514-528
-
-
Karambas, T.1
Tozer, N.P.2
-
31
-
-
34548037660
-
On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash
-
Karunarathna H., Chadwick A.J. On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash. Ocean Eng. 2007, 34:2115-2123.
-
(2007)
Ocean Eng.
, vol.34
, pp. 2115-2123
-
-
Karunarathna, H.1
Chadwick, A.J.2
-
32
-
-
0342827823
-
Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. (Part I). J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and Ocean Eng
-
Kennedy A.B., Chen Q., Kirby J.T., Dalrymple R.A. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. (Part I). J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and Ocean Eng. ASCE 2000, 126:39-56.
-
(2000)
ASCE
, vol.126
, pp. 39-56
-
-
Kennedy, A.B.1
Chen, Q.2
Kirby, J.T.3
Dalrymple, R.A.4
-
33
-
-
77956737077
-
Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation, surfzone processes and wave-induced currents
-
Elsevier Science Publisher, V.C. Lakhan (Ed.)
-
Kirby J.T. Boussinesq models and applications to nearshore wave propagation, surfzone processes and wave-induced currents. Advances in Coastal Modeling 2003, vol.67:1-41. Elsevier Science Publisher. V.C. Lakhan (Ed.).
-
(2003)
Advances in Coastal Modeling
, vol.67
, pp. 1-41
-
-
Kirby, J.T.1
-
34
-
-
0020544597
-
Open boundaries in short wave simulations - a new approach
-
Larsen J., Dancy H. Open boundaries in short wave simulations - a new approach. Coastal Eng. 1983, 7:285-297.
-
(1983)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.7
, pp. 285-297
-
-
Larsen, J.1
Dancy, H.2
-
35
-
-
0035251385
-
Internal generation of waves for extended Boussinesq equations
-
Lee C., Cho Y.-S., Yum K. Internal generation of waves for extended Boussinesq equations. Coastal Eng. 2001, 42:155-162.
-
(2001)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.42
, pp. 155-162
-
-
Lee, C.1
Cho, Y.-S.2
Yum, K.3
-
36
-
-
0032021727
-
A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone
-
Lin P., Liu P.L.-F. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J. Fluid Mech. 1998, 359:239-264.
-
(1998)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.359
, pp. 239-264
-
-
Lin, P.1
Liu, P.L.-F.2
-
39
-
-
79956358906
-
Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to "surf beats"
-
Longuet-Higgins M.S., Steward R.W. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to "surf beats". J. Fluid Mech. 1962, 13:481-504.
-
(1962)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.13
, pp. 481-504
-
-
Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
Steward, R.W.2
-
40
-
-
0036647126
-
Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations
-
Lynett P.J., Wu T.-R., Liu P.L.-F. Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations. Coastal Eng. 2002, 46:89-107.
-
(2002)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.46
, pp. 89-107
-
-
Lynett, P.J.1
Wu, T.-R.2
Liu, P.L.-F.3
-
41
-
-
3242825992
-
Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis
-
Madsen P.A., Schäffer H.A. Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond. 1998, 356:3123-3184.
-
(1998)
Phil. Trans. R. Soc. Lond.
, vol.356
, pp. 3123-3184
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Schäffer, H.A.2
-
42
-
-
0027007549
-
A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2: A slowly varying bathymetry
-
Madsen P.A., Sørensen O.R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2: A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Eng 1992, 18:183-204.
-
(1992)
Coastal Eng
, vol.18
, pp. 183-204
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Sørensen, O.R.2
-
43
-
-
33645878917
-
A Boussinesq-type method for fully nonlinear waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry
-
Madsen P.A., Fuhrman D.R., Wang B. A Boussinesq-type method for fully nonlinear waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry. Coastal Eng. 2006, 52:487-504.
-
(2006)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.52
, pp. 487-504
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Fuhrman, D.R.2
Wang, B.3
-
44
-
-
0026191546
-
A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 1
-
Madsen P.A., Murray R., Sørensen O.R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 1. Coastal Eng. 1991, 15:371-388.
-
(1991)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.15
, pp. 371-388
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Murray, R.2
Sørensen, O.R.3
-
45
-
-
0031430444
-
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves
-
Madsen P.A., Sørensen O.R., Schäffer H.A. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coastal Eng. 1997, 32:255-287.
-
(1997)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.32
, pp. 255-287
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Sørensen, O.R.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
-
46
-
-
0031430474
-
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, Part II. Surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves
-
Madsen P.A., Sørensen O.R., Schäffer H.A. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, Part II. Surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves. Coastal Eng. 1997, 32:289-319.
-
(1997)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.32
, pp. 289-319
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Sørensen, O.R.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
-
47
-
-
0000291418
-
Frequency down-shift of swash oscillations compared to incident waves
-
Mase H. Frequency down-shift of swash oscillations compared to incident waves. J. Hydr. Res. 1995, 33(3):397-411.
-
(1995)
J. Hydr. Res.
, vol.33
, Issue.3
, pp. 397-411
-
-
Mase, H.1
-
49
-
-
0029412963
-
Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone
-
Masselink G. Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone. Cont. Shelf Res. 1995, 15:1525-1547.
-
(1995)
Cont. Shelf Res.
, vol.15
, pp. 1525-1547
-
-
Masselink, G.1
-
50
-
-
20944432608
-
The flow in the surf zone: a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type of approach
-
Musumeci R., Svendsen I.A., Veeramony J. The flow in the surf zone: a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type of approach. Coastal Eng. 2005, 52:565-598.
-
(2005)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.52
, pp. 565-598
-
-
Musumeci, R.1
Svendsen, I.A.2
Veeramony, J.3
-
51
-
-
0027789687
-
An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation
-
Nwogu O. An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coast 1993, 119(6):618-638.
-
(1993)
J. Waterway, Port, Coast
, vol.119
, Issue.6
, pp. 618-638
-
-
Nwogu, O.1
-
52
-
-
33745053080
-
The Relative Trough Froude Number for initiation of wave breaking: Theory, experiments and numerical model confirmation
-
Okamoto T., Basco D.R. The Relative Trough Froude Number for initiation of wave breaking: Theory, experiments and numerical model confirmation. Coastal Eng. 2006, 53:675-690.
-
(2006)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.53
, pp. 675-690
-
-
Okamoto, T.1
Basco, D.R.2
-
53
-
-
84958444374
-
Calculations of the development of an undular bore
-
Peregrine D.H. Calculations of the development of an undular bore. J. Fluid Mech. 1966, 25(2):321-330.
-
(1966)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.25
, Issue.2
, pp. 321-330
-
-
Peregrine, D.H.1
-
54
-
-
84958426983
-
Long waves on a beach
-
Peregrine D.H. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 1967, 27:815-827.
-
(1967)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.27
, pp. 815-827
-
-
Peregrine, D.H.1
-
56
-
-
0027790541
-
Infragravity waves induced by short wave groups
-
Schäffer H.A. Infragravity waves induced by short wave groups. J. Fluid Mech. 1993, 247:551-588.
-
(1993)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.247
, pp. 551-588
-
-
Schäffer, H.A.1
-
57
-
-
0027788993
-
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
-
Schäffer H.A., Madsen P.A., Deigaard R. A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water. Coastal Eng. 1993, 20:185-202.
-
(1993)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.20
, pp. 185-202
-
-
Schäffer, H.A.1
Madsen, P.A.2
Deigaard, R.3
-
58
-
-
0019999201
-
Two dimensional surfbeat: Long wave generation by a time varying breakpoint
-
Symonds G., Huntley D.A., Bowen A.J. Two dimensional surfbeat: Long wave generation by a time varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 1982, 87:492-498.
-
(1982)
J. Geophys. Res.
, vol.87
, pp. 492-498
-
-
Symonds, G.1
Huntley, D.A.2
Bowen, A.J.3
-
59
-
-
0037711792
-
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, III. Wave-induced horizontal nearshore circulation
-
Sørensen O.R., Schäffer H.A., Madsen P.A. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model, III. Wave-induced horizontal nearshore circulation. Coastla Eng. 1998, 33:155-176.
-
(1998)
Coastla Eng.
, vol.33
, pp. 155-176
-
-
Sørensen, O.R.1
Schäffer, H.A.2
Madsen, P.A.3
-
60
-
-
62649110750
-
Hybrid finite volume - finite difference scheme for 2DH improved Boussinesq equations
-
Tonelli M., Petti M. Hybrid finite volume - finite difference scheme for 2DH improved Boussinesq equations. Coastal Eng. 2009, 56:609-622.
-
(2009)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.56
, pp. 609-622
-
-
Tonelli, M.1
Petti, M.2
-
61
-
-
77951128147
-
Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone
-
Tonelli M., Petti M. Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone. Ocean Eng. 2010, 37:567-582.
-
(2010)
Ocean Eng.
, vol.37
, pp. 567-582
-
-
Tonelli, M.1
Petti, M.2
-
62
-
-
84855860244
-
Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model
-
Tonelli M., Petti M. Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model. J. Hydr. Res. 2011, 49(4):473-486.
-
(2011)
J. Hydr. Res.
, vol.49
, Issue.4
, pp. 473-486
-
-
Tonelli, M.1
Petti, M.2
-
64
-
-
74449084301
-
Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach
-
Torres-Freyermuth A., Lara J.L., Losada I.J. Numerical modelling of short- and long-wave transformation on a barred beach. Coastal Eng. 2010, 57:317-330.
-
(2010)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.57
, pp. 317-330
-
-
Torres-Freyermuth, A.1
Lara, J.L.2
Losada, I.J.3
-
66
-
-
0000413879
-
Low frequency waves in the surf zone. Proc. 23rd Int. Conf
-
Watson G., Peregrine D.H. Low frequency waves in the surf zone. Proc. 23rd Int. Conf. Coastal Eng 1992, 1:818-831.
-
(1992)
Coastal Eng
, vol.1
, pp. 818-831
-
-
Watson, G.1
Peregrine, D.H.2
-
67
-
-
0029478516
-
Time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations. J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and
-
Wei G., Kirby J.T. Time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations. J. Waterway, Port, Coast., and. Ocean Eng. 1995, 121:251-261.
-
(1995)
Ocean Eng.
, vol.121
, pp. 251-261
-
-
Wei, G.1
Kirby, J.T.2
-
68
-
-
0032100289
-
An efficient CDF approach for simulating unsteady hypersonic shock-shock interference flows
-
Yamamoto S., Kano S., Daiguji H. An efficient CDF approach for simulating unsteady hypersonic shock-shock interference flows. Comp. & Fluids 1998, 27:571-580.
-
(1998)
Comp. & Fluids
, vol.27
, pp. 571-580
-
-
Yamamoto, S.1
Kano, S.2
Daiguji, H.3
-
69
-
-
0024717459
-
Interactions of currents and weakly nonlinear water waves in shallow water
-
Yoon S.B., Liu P.L.-F. Interactions of currents and weakly nonlinear water waves in shallow water. J. Fluid Mech. 1989, 205:397-419.
-
(1989)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.205
, pp. 397-419
-
-
Yoon, S.B.1
Liu, P.L.-F.2
-
70
-
-
0025920149
-
The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves
-
Zelt J.A. The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. Coastal Eng. 1991, 15:205-246.
-
(1991)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.15
, pp. 205-246
-
-
Zelt, J.A.1
-
71
-
-
0002690008
-
The surface gradient method for the treatment of source terms in the shallow-water equations
-
Zhou J.G., Causon D.M., Mingham C.G., Ingram D.M. The surface gradient method for the treatment of source terms in the shallow-water equations. J. Comput. Phys. 2001, 168:1-25.
-
(2001)
J. Comput. Phys.
, vol.168
, pp. 1-25
-
-
Zhou, J.G.1
Causon, D.M.2
Mingham, C.G.3
Ingram, D.M.4
-
72
-
-
51749114265
-
Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure
-
Zijlema M., Stelling G. Efficient computation of surf zone waves using the nonlinear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure. Coastal Eng. 2008, 55:780-790.
-
(2008)
Coastal Eng.
, vol.55
, pp. 780-790
-
-
Zijlema, M.1
Stelling, G.2
|