The use of remote sensing and linear wave theory to model local wave energy around Alphonse Atoll, Seychelles

Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science

Volumn 95, Issue 4, 2011, Pages 349-358

  Hamylton, S ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

Bathymetry; Coral reef; GIS; Wave power; WaveWatch III

Indexed keywords

ATOLL; BATHYMETRY; BENTHIC ENVIRONMENT; DATA SET; GIS; REMOTE SENSING; RENEWABLE RESOURCE; WAVE BREAKING; WAVE ENERGY; WAVE HEIGHT; WAVE MODELING;

ALPHONSE; SEYCHELLES;

ANTHOZOA;

EID: 82955195423     PISSN: 02727714     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.ecss.2011.08.035     Document Type: Article

References (53)

1. Arthur R.S. Refraction of waves by islands and shoals with circular bottom contours. Transactions of the American Geophysical Union 1946, 27:168-177.
2. Booij N., Ris R.C., Holthuijsen L.H. A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 1. Model description and validation. Journal of Geophysical Research 1999, 104:7649-7666.
3. Booij N., Haagsma I.J.G., Holthuijsen L.H., Kieftenburg A.T.M.M., Ris R.C., Van Der Westhuysen A.J., Pijlema M. SWAN Cycle III Version 40.81 User Manual 2004, Delft University of Technology.
4. Brander R.W., Kench P.S., Hart D.E. Spatial and temporal variations in wave characteristics across a reef platform, Warraber Island, Torres Strait, Australia. Marine Geology 2004, 207:69-184.
5. Bretschneider C.L. Wave generation by wind, deep and shallow water. Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics 1966, 133-196. McGraw-Hill, New York. A.T. Ippen (Ed.).
6. Burrows M.T., Harvey R., et al. Wave exposure indices from digital coastlines and the prediction of rocky shore community structure. Marine Ecology Progress Series 2008, 353:1-12.
7. Callaghan D.P., Nielsen P., Cartwright N., Gourlay M.R., Baldock T.E. Atoll lagoon flushing forced by waves. Coastal Engineering 2006, 53:691-704.
8. Congalton R. A review of assessing the accuracy of classifications of remotely sensed data. Remote Sensing of Environment 1991, 30:35-46.
9. Davies J.L. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development 1980, Longman, London.
10. Depczynski M., Bellwood D.R. Wave energy and spatial variability in community structure of small cryptic coral reef fishes. Marine Ecology Progress Series 2005, 303:283-293.
11. Eastwood P., Souissi S., Rogers S., Coggan R., Brown C. Mapping seabed assemblages using comparative top-down and bottom-up classification approaches. Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences 2006, 63:1536-1548.
12. Edinger E.N., Risk M.J. Reef classification by coral morphology predicts coral reef conservation value. Biological Conservation 2000, 92:1-13.
13. Ekebom J.P., Laihonen T., Suominen T. A GIS-based step-wise procedure for assessing physical exposure in fragmented archipelagos. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 2003, 57:887-898.
14. Fonseca M.S., Calahan J.A. A preliminary evaluation of wave attenuation by four species of seagrass. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 1992, 35:565-576.
15. Fulton C.J., Bellwood D.R. Wave induced water motion and the functional implications for coral reef fish assemblages. Limnology and Oceanography 2005, 50:255-264.
16. Garza-Perez J.R., Lehmann A., Arias-Gonzalez J.E. Spatial prediction of coral reef habitats: integrating ecology with spatial modelling and remote sensing. Marine Ecology Progress Series 2004, 269:141-152.
17. Geister J. The influence of wave exposure on the ecological zonation of Caribbean coral reefs. Proceedings of the 3rd International Coral Reef Symposium 1977, 2:34-63.
18. Gourlay M.R. Wave transformation on a coral reef. Coastal Engineering 1994, 23:17-42.
19. Gustafson E.J., Parker G.R. Relationships between landcover proportion and indices of landscape spatial pattern. Landscape Ecology 1992, 7:101-110.
20. Hagan A.B., 2004. Reef regeneration at Alphonse atoll, Western Indian Ocean following the 1997-1998 Ocean Warming Event, PhD thesis, University of Cambridge.
21. Hamylton S., Spencer T. An integrated approach to geomorphological modelling in marine systems: remote sensing, patches and spatial statistics. Continental Shelf Research 2010, 31:151-161.
22. Hansom J.D. Coasts 1988, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
23. Harborne A.R., Mumby P.M., Zychaluk K., Hedley J.D., Blackwell P.G. Modeling the beta diversity of coral reefs. Ecology 2006, 87:2871-2881.
24. Hearn C.J. The Dynamics of Coastal Models 2008, Cambridge University Press, Leiden.
25. Jenness J. Radiating Lines and Points (rad_lines.avx) Extension for ArcView 3.x 2006, vol. 1.1. Jenness Enterprises. http://www.jennessent.com/arcview/arcview_extensions.htm.
26. Jupp, D.L., 1988. Background and extensions to depth of Penetration (DOP) mapping in shallow coastal waters, Symposium on Remote Sensing of the Coastal Zone, Queensland.
27. Kahma K.K., Calkoen C.J. Reconciling discrepancies in the observed growth of wind-generated waves. Journal of Physical Oceanography 1992, 12:1389-1405.
28. Kench P.B., Brander R.W. Wave processes on coral reef flats: implications for reef geomorphology using Australian case studies. Journal of Coastal Research 2006, 22:209-223.
29. Kiirikki M. Mechanisms affecting macroalgal zonation in the northern Baltic Sea. European Journal of Phycology 1996, 6:225-232.
30. Lowell S.C. The propagation of waves in shallow water. Communications in Pure Applied Mathematics 1949, 2:275-291.
31. Lugo-Fernández A., Hernández-Ávila M.L., Roberts H.H. Wave-energy distribution and hurricane effects on Margarita Reef, southwestern Puerto Rico. Coral Reefs 1994, 13:21-32.
32. Massel S. Fluid Mechanics for Marine Ecologists 1999, Springer Heidelberg, 566.
33. Massel S.R., Gourlay M.R. On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs. Coastal Engineering 2000, 39:1-27.
34. Massel S.R. Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction, Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering 2005, vol. 11. World Scientific.
35. McQuaid C.D., Branch G.M. Trophic structure of rocky intertidal communities:response to wave action and implications for energy flow. Marine Ecology Progress Series 1985, 22:153-161.
36. Malhotra A., Fonseca M.S. WEMo (Wave Exposure Model): Formation, Procedures and Validation 2007, NOAA, Technical Memorandum NOS NCCOS NOAA, Washington DC.
37. Mather P.M. Computer Processing of Remotely Sensed Images: An Introduction 2004, John Wiley & Sons, Oxford.
38. Nielsen P. Coastal and Estuarine Processes 2009, World Scientific, Publishing Company, Singapore.
39. Pepper A.P., Puotinen M.L., 2009. GREMO: A GIS-based generic model for estimating relative wave exposure. In: 18th World Interface Modelling and Simulation Congress, Cairns, Australia, pp 1964-1970.
40. Ramage C.S. Monsoon Meteorology 1971, Academic Press, London.
41. Roberts H.H. Variability of reefs with regard to changes in wave power around an island. Proceedings of the 2nd International Coral Reef Symposium 1974, 2:497-512.
42. Roberts H.H., Wilson P.A., Lugo-Fernandez A. Biologic and geologic responses to physical processes: examples from modern reef systems of the Caribbean- Atlantic region. Continental Shelf Research 1992, 12:809-834.
43. Ruuskanen A., Bäck S. A comparison of two cartographic exposure methods. Marine Biology 1999, 134:139-145.
44. Shumchenia E.J., King J.W. Comparison of methods for integrating biological and physical data for marine habitat mapping and classification. Continental Shelf Research 2010, 30(2010):1717-1729.
45. Sheppard C.R.C. Coral populations on reef slopes and their major controls. Marine Ecology Progress Series 1982, 7:83-115.
46. Stoddart D.R. Geology and morphology of reefs: environment and history in Indian Ocean reef morphology. Regional Variation in Indian Ocean Coral Reefs 1971, 3-31. Academic Press, London. D.W. Stoddart, M. Yonge (Eds.).
47. Stumpf R.P., Holderied K., Sinclair M. Determination of water depth with high-resolution satellite imagery over variable bottom types. Limnological Oceanography 2003, 48:547-556.
48. Tolman H.L. User Manual and System Documentation of WAVEWATCH-III Version 2.22 2002, NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB.
49. Walsh R.P.D. Climate of the Seychelles. Biogeography and Ecology of the Seychelles Islands, Indian Ocean 1984, 39-62. DW Junk Publishers, The Hague. D.R. Stoddart (Ed.).
50. Wernberg T., Thomsen M.S. The effect of wave exposure on the morphology of Ecklonia radiata. Aquatic Botany 2005, 83:61-70.
51. Wiegel R.L. Oceanographical Engineering 1964, Prentice Hall, New York.
52. Yamano H., Osamu A., Matsumoto E., Kayanne H., Yonekura N., Blanchon P. Influence of wave energy on Holocene coral reef development: an example from Ishigaki Island, Ryukyu Islands, Japan. Sedimentary Geology 2003, 159:27-41.
53. Zacharias M.A., Morris M.C. Large scale characterization of intertidal communities using a predictive model. Journal of Experimental Marine Biology and Ecology 1999, 239:223-224.