Megacusps on rip channel bathymetry: Observations and modeling

Coastal Engineering

Volumn 58, Issue 9, 2011, Pages 890-907

  Orzech, Mark D ^a   Reniers, Ad J H M ^b   Thornton, Edward B ^c   MacMahan, Jamie H ^c  

^a NAVAL RESEARCH LABORATORY   (United States)

^b UNIVERSITY OF MIAMI   (United States)

^c NAVAL POSTGRADUATE SCHOOL   (United States)

Author keywords

Megacusps; Modeling; Rip channels; Sediment transport; XBeach

Indexed keywords

ADVECTIVE FLOW; BEACH FACE; COASTAL SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; FIELD DATA; HINDCASTS; INFRAGRAVITY; MEAN FLOW; MEAN WATER LEVELS; MEGACUSPS; MONTEREY BAY; RIP CHANNELS; SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION; SHORELINE CHANGE; SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT; TIME-AVERAGED; TRANSPORT PROCESS; VERY LOW FREQUENCY; WAVE DATA; XBEACH;

BEACHES; COMPUTER SIMULATION; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; SEDIMENTATION; SEDIMENTOLOGY; SOIL MECHANICS; WATER LEVELS;

ANOXIC SEDIMENTS;

BEACH MORPHOLOGY; COASTAL SEDIMENT; DUNE; MODELING; RIP CURRENT; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; SHOALING WAVE; WAVE RUNUP;

CALIFORNIA; SAND CITY; UNITED STATES;

EID: 79960053909     PISSN: 03783839     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.001     Document Type: Article

References (56)

1. Aagaard T., Greenwood B., Nielsen J. Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. Marine Geology 1997, 140:24-45.
2. Andrews D.G., McIntyre M.E. An exact theory of nonlinear waves on a Lagrangian-mean flow. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1978, 89(4):609-646.
3. Battjes J.A. Modeling of turbulence in the surf zone. Proceedings of Symposium on Modeling Technology 1975, 1050-1061. ASCE, New York, NY.
4. Battjes J.A., Janssen J.P.F.M. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proceedings of 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Vol 1 1978, 569-587. ASCE, New York, NY.
5. Blondeaux P. Mechanics of coastal forms. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 2001, 33:339-370.
6. Bowen A.J. Rip currents, 1, theoretical investigations. Journal of Geophysical Research 1969, 74(23):5467-5478.
7. Brander R.W., Short A.D. Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current systems. Journal of Coastal Research 2001, 17(2):468-481.
8. Brown, J. (2008). Field Measurements and Modeling of Surfzone Currents on Inhomogeneous Beaches. Master's Thesis, University of Delaware.
9. Brown J., MacMahan J., Reniers A., Thornton E. Surf zone diffusivity on a rip-channeled beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 2009, 114:C11015. 10.1029/2008JC005158.
10. Calvete D., Dodd N., Falques A., van Leeuwen S.M. Morphological development of rip channel systems: normal and near-normal wave incidence. Journal of Geophysical Research 2005, 110(C10):C10006. 10.1029/2004JC002803.
11. Dodd N., Blondeaux P., Calvete D., de Swart H.E., Falques A., Hulscher S.J.M.H., Rozynski G., Vittori G. The use of stability methods in understanding the morphodynamical behavior of coastal systems. Journal of Coastal Research 2003, 19:849-865.
12. Edelman T. Dune erosion during storm conditions. Proceedings of 11th Conference on Coastal Engineering 1968, 719-722. ASCE, New York, NY.
13. Falques A., Calvete D. Large-scale dynamics of sandy coastlines: diffusivity and instability. Journal of Geophysical Research 2005, 110(C3):C03007. 10.1029/2004JC002587.
14. Feddersen F., Guza R.T., Herbers T.H.C., Elgar S. Velocity moments in alongshore bottom stress parameterizations. Journal of Geophysical Research 2000, 105(C4):8673-8686.
15. Galappatti R., Vreugdenhil C.B. A depth integrated model for suspended transport. Journal of Hydraulic Research 1985, 23(4):359-377.
16. Gallagher E.L., Elgar S., Guza R.T. Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 1998, 103(C2):3203-3215.
17. Garnier R., Calvete D., Falques A., Dodd N. Modelling the formation and the long-term behavior of rip channel systems from the deformation of a longshore bar. Journal of Geophysical Research 2008, 113:C07053. 10.1029/2007JC004632.
18. Haas K.A., Svendsen I.A., Haller M.C., Zhao Q. Quasi-three-dimensional modeling of rip current systems. Journal of Geophysical Research 2003, 108(C7):3217. 10.1029/2002JC001355.
19. Haller M.C., Dalrymple R.A., Svendsen I.A. Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels. Journal of Geophysical Research 2002, 107(C6):3061. 10.1029/2001JC000955.
20. Holland K.T., Holman R.A., Lippmann T.C., Stanley J., Plant N. Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies. IEEE Journal of Ocean Engineering 1997, 22(1).
21. Holman R.A., Bowen A.J. Bars, bumps, and holes: models for the generation of complex beach topography. Journal of Geophysical Research 1982, 87(C1):457-468.
22. Horikawa K. Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Processes 1988, University of Tokyo Press, Tokyo, Japan.
23. Horn D.P., Baldock T.E., Baird A.J., Mason T.E. Field measurements of swash induced pressures within a sandy beach. Proc. 26th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen. ASCE 1998, 2812-2825.
24. Komar P.D. Beach Processes and Sedimentation 1998, Prentice-Hall, Upper Saddle River, New Jersey. 2nd ed.
25. Lesser G.R., Roelvink J.A., van Kester J.A.T.M., Stelling G.S. Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model. Coastal Engineering 2004, 51(8-9):883-915.
26. Lippmann T.C., Holman R.A. Quantification of sand bar morphology: a video technique based on wave dissipation. Journal of Geophysical Research 1989, 94(C1):995-1011.
27. MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Stanton T.P., Reniers A.J.H.M. RIPEX: observations of a rip current system. Marine Geology 2005, 218:113-134.
28. MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Reniers A.J.H.M. Rip current review. Coastal Engineering 2006, 53(2-3):191-208.
29. MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Reniers A.J.H.M., Stanton T.P., Symonds G. Low-energy rip currents associated with small bathymetric variations. Marine Geology 2008, 255(3-4):156-164.
30. Masselink G., Hughes M. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research 1998, 18:1179-1199.
31. McCall R.T., van Thiel de Vries J.S.M., Plant N.G., van Dongeren A.R., Roelvink J.A., Thompson D.M., Reniers A.J.H.M. Two-dimensional time dependent hurricane overwash and erosion modeling at Santa Rosa Island. Coastal Engineering 2010, 57:668-683.
32. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Retrieved from NOAA's National Data Buoy Center website http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov.
33. Nielsen P., Robert S., Møller-Christiansen B., Oliva P. Infiltration effects on sediment mobility under waves. Coastal Engineering 2001, 42:105-114.
34. Nishi R., Kraus C. Mechanism and calculation of sand dune erosion by storms. Proceedings of the 25th Coastal Engineering Conference 1996, 3034-3047. ASCE, New York, NY.
35. Ranasinghe R., Symonds G., Holman R.A. Quantitative characterization of rip currents via video imaging. Coastal Sediments '99 1999, 987-1002. ASCE, New York, NY.
36. Ranasinghe R., Symonds G., Black K., Holman R.A. Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modeling study. Coastal Engineering 2004, 51:629-655.
37. Raubenheimer B., Guza R.T., Elgar S. Wave transformation across the inner surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research 1996, 101(C10):25,589-25,597.
38. Reniers A.J.H.M., Thornton E.B., Roelvink J.A. Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave-group forcing. Journal of Geophysical Research 2004, 109:C01030. 10.1029/2002JC001586.
39. Reniers A.J.H.M., MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Stanton T.P. Modelling infragravity motions on a rip-channel beach. Coastal Engineering 2006, 53:209-222.
40. Reniers A.J.H.M., MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Stanton T.P. Modeling of very low frequency motions during RIPEX. Journal of Geophysical Research 2007, 112:C07013. 10.1029/2005JC003122.
41. Reniers A.J.H.M., MacMahan J.H., Thornton E.B., Stanton T.P., Henriquez M., Brown J.W., Brown J.A., Gallagher E. Surf zone surface retention on a rip-channeled beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 2009, 114:C10010. 10.1029/2008JC005153.
42. Rienecker M.M., Fenton J.D. A Fourier approximation method for steady water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1981, 104:119-137.
43. Roelvink J.A. Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach. Coastal Engineering 1993, 19:127-150.
44. Roelvink J.A. Coastal morphodynamic evolution techniques. Coastal Engineering 2006, 53:277-287.
45. Roelvink J.A., Stive M.J.F. Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 1989, 94(C4):4785-4800.
46. Roelvink J.A., van Banning G.K.F.M. Design and development of Delft3D and application to coastal morphodynamics. Proceedings of Hydroinformatics'94 Conference 1994, 451-456. Balkema, Leiden, Netherlands.
47. Roelvink D., Reniers A., van Dongeren A., van Theil de Vries J., McCall R., Lescinski J. Modeling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering 2009, 56(11-12):1133-1152.
48. Sallenger A.H., Holman R.A. Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope. Journal of Geophysical Research 1985, 90(C6):11,939-11,944.
49. Short A.D. Three-dimensional beach stage model. Journal of Geology 1979, 87:553-571.
50. Soulsby R. Dynamics of Marine Sands 1997, Thomas Telford Publications, London, England.
51. Sutherland J., Peet A.H., Soulsby R.L. Evaluating the performance of morphological models. Coastal Engineering 2004, 51(8-9):917-939.
52. Van Thiel de Vries J. Dune Erosion during Storm Surges 2008, Deltares, Delft, Netherlands, ISBN 1877-5608.
53. Thornton E.B., Guza R.T. Energy saturation and phase speeds measured on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 1982, 87:9499-9508.
54. Thornton E.B., Humiston R.T., Birkemeier W. Bar/trough generation on a natural beach. Journal of Geophysical Research 1996, 101(C5):12,097-12,110.
55. Thornton E.B., Sallenger A.H., MacMahan J.H. Rip currents, cuspate shorelines and eroding dunes. Marine Geology 2007, 240(1-4):151-167.
56. Van Thiel de Vries J.S.M., van Gent M.R.A., Walstra D.J.R., Reniers A.J.H.M. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large-scale flume experiments. Coastal Engineering 2008, 55:1028-1040.