Wave breaking in Boussinesq models for undular bores

Physics Letters, Section A: General, Atomic and Solid State Physics

Volumn 375, Issue 14, 2011, Pages 1570-1578

  Bjørkavåg, Magnar ^a   Kalisch, Henrik ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF BERGEN   (Norway)

Author keywords

Breaking waves; Long wave model; Solitary waves; Undular bore

Indexed keywords

NONLINEAR EQUATIONS; SOLITONS;

BREAKING WAVES; LONG WAVE MODELS; NONLINEAR DISPERSIVE; NUMERICAL COMPUTATIONS; NUMERICAL RESULTS; OSCILLATORY STRUCTURE; SOLI-TARY WAVE SOLUTIONS; UNDULAR BORE;

WATER WAVES;

EID: 79952991900     PISSN: 03759601     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1016/j.physleta.2011.02.060     Document Type: Article

References (29)

1. H. Favre Ondes de Translation 1935 Dunod Paris
2. J. Boussinesq J. Math. Pures Appl. 17 1872 55
3. P.G. Peregrine J. Fluid Mech. 25 1966 321
4. J.L. Bona, M. Chen, and J.-C. Saut J. Nonlinear Sci. 12 2002 283
5. G.B. Whitham Linear and Nonlinear Waves 1974 Wiley New York
6. S. Sato, and M.B. Kabiling A numerical simulation of beach evolution based on a nonlinear dispersive wave-current model Proceedings of the Twenty-Fourth International Conference Held in Kobe Japan, Coastal Engineering, 1994 1995 Wiley New York 2557 2570
7. J.H. Duncan Ann. Rev. Fluid Mech. 33 2001 519
8. I.A. Svendsen Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics 2006 World Scientific Singapore
9. J.G.B. Byatt-Smith J. Fluid Mech. 48 1971 33
10. T.J. Bridges Nonlinearity 22 2009 947
11. H.M. Nepf, C.H. Wu, and E.S. Chan J. Phys. Oceanogr. 28 1998 1496
12. M.S. Longuet-Higgins J. Fluid Mech. 240 1992 659
13. M.S. Longuet-Higgins Proc. R. Soc. London Ser. A 446 1994 399
14. P. Daripa, and R.K. Dash Internat. J. Engrg. Sci. 41 2003 201
15. E. Wahlén Phys. Lett. A 372 2008 2597
16. C. Koch, and H. Chanson Unsteady turbulence characteristics in an undular bore River Flow 2006 2006 Taylor & Francis Group London
17. J.L. Bona, and M. Chen Physica D 116 1998 191
18. A.S. Fokas, and B. Pelloni Math. Phys. Anal. Geom. 8 2005 59
19. V.A. Dougalis, D.E. Mitsotakis, and J.-C. Saut Discrete Contin. Dyn. Syst. 23 2009 1191
20. V.A. Dougalis, D.E. Mitsotakis, and J.-C. Saut M2AN Math. Model. Numer. Anal. 41 2007 825
21. V.A. Dougalis, and D.E. Mitsotakis Theory and numerical analysis of Boussinesq systems: a review Effective Computational Methods for Wave Propagation Numer. Insights vol. 5 2008 Chapman & Hall/CRC Boca Raton, FL 63 110
22. A. Ali, and H. Kalisch Compt. Rend. Mecanique 338 2010 67
23. F. Chazel, D. Lannes, F. Marche, Numerical simulation of strongly nonlinear and dispersive waves using a Green-Naghdi model, J. Sci. Comput., doi:10.1007/s10915-010-9395-9, in press.
24. O. Le Métayer, S. Gavrilyuk, and S. Hank J. Comput. Phys. 229 2010 2034
25. A.E. Green, and P.M. Naghdi J. Fluid Mech. 78 1976 237
26. D. Lannes, and P. Bonneton Phys. Fluids 21 2009 016601
27. G.A. El, R.H.J. Grimshaw, and N.F. Smyth Phys. Fluids 18 2006 027104
28. M. Chen Appl. Math. Lett. 11 1998 45
29. J. McCowan Philos. Mag. 38 1894 351