메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 43, Issue , 2011, Pages 551-581

Rip currents

Author keywords

beach; circulation; drownings; instabilities; lifeguards; natural hazards; nearshore; shear waves; surf zone

Indexed keywords

CIRCULATION; DROWNINGS; INSTABILITIES; LIFEGUARDS; NATURAL HAZARD; NEARSHORES; SURF ZONES;

EID: 79951974582     PISSN: 00664189     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book Series    
DOI: 10.1146/annurev-fluid-122109-160733     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (200)

References (129)
  • 1
    • 0030834355 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel
    • DOI 10.1016/S0025-3227(97)00025-X, PII S002532279700025X
    • Aagaard T, Greenwood B, Nielsen J. 1997. Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. Mar. Geol. 140:25-45 (Pubitemid 27347829)
    • (1997) Marine Geology , vol.140 , Issue.1-2 , pp. 25-45
    • Aagaard, T.1    Greenwood, B.2    Nielsen, J.3
  • 2
    • 0029656639 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents on plane beaches
    • Allen J, Newberger P, Holman R. 1996. Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents on plane beaches. J. Fluid Mech. 310:181-213
    • (1996) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.310 , pp. 181-213
    • Allen, J.1    Newberger, P.2    Holman, R.3
  • 4
    • 2942738756 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A simplified model of rip currents systems around discontinuous submerged barriers
    • Belloti G. 2004. A simplified model of rip currents systems around discontinuous submerged barriers. Coast. Eng. 51:323-35
    • (2004) Coast. Eng. , vol.51 , pp. 323-35
    • Belloti, G.1
  • 6
    • 30944466127 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sandy shoreline response to offshore obstacles: Part 1. Salient and tombolo geometry and shape
    • Black K, Andrews C. 2001. Sandy shoreline response to offshore obstacles: Part 1. Salient and tombolo geometry and shape. J. Coast. Res. 29:83-93
    • (2001) J. Coast. Res. , vol.29 , pp. 83-93
    • Black, K.1    Andrews, C.2
  • 8
    • 0014582759 scopus 로고
    • Rip currents, 1: Theoretical investigations
    • Bowen AJ. 1969. Rip currents, 1: Theoretical investigations. J. Geophys. Res. 74:5467-78
    • (1969) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.74 , pp. 5467-78
    • Bowen, A.J.1
  • 9
    • 0024932334 scopus 로고
    • Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current, i
    • Bowen AJ, Holman RA. 1989. Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current, I. Theory. J. Geophys. Res. 94:18023-30
    • (1989) Theory. J. Geophys. Res. , vol.94 , pp. 18023-30
    • Bowen, A.J.1    Holman, R.A.2
  • 10
    • 0000559056 scopus 로고
    • Rip currents 2. Laboratory and field observations
    • Bowen AJ, Inman DL. 1969. Rip currents 2. Laboratory and field observations. J. Geophys. Res. 74:5479-90
    • (1969) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.74 , pp. 5479-90
    • Bowen, A.J.1    Inman, D.L.2
  • 11
    • 0032784627 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sediment transport in low-energy rip current systems
    • Brander RW. 1999. Sediment transport in low-energy rip current systems. J. Coast. Res. 15:839-49 (Pubitemid 29337582)
    • (1999) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.15 , Issue.3 , pp. 839-849
    • Brander, R.W.1
  • 12
    • 0034977869 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current systems
    • Brander RW, Short AD. 2001. Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current systems. J. Coast. Res. 17:468-81 (Pubitemid 32540539)
    • (2001) Journal of Coastal Research , vol.17 , Issue.2 , pp. 468-481
    • Brander, R.W.1    Short, A.D.2
  • 13
    • 2542615231 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Topographically controlled, breaking-wave-induced macrovortices. Part 1. Widely separated breakwaters
    • DOI 10.1017/S002211200400878X
    • Brocchini M, Kennedy A, Soldini L, Mancinelli A. 2004. Topographically controlled, breaking-wave-induced macrovortices. Part 1. Widely separated breakwaters. J. Fluid Mech. 507:289-307 (Pubitemid 38708420)
    • (2004) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.507 , pp. 289-307
    • Brocchini, M.1    Kennedy, A.2    Soldini, L.3    Mancinelli, A.4
  • 15
    • 67650991836 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology
    • Bruneau N, Castelle B, Bonneton P, Pedreros R, Almar R, et al. 2009. Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology. Cont. Shelf Res. 29:1650-62
    • (2009) Cont. Shelf Res. , vol.29 , pp. 1650-62
    • Bruneau, N.1    Castelle, B.2    Bonneton, P.3    Pedreros, R.4    Almar, R.5
  • 16
    • 0035951048 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave-driven currents and vortex dynamics on barred beaches
    • Bühler O, Jacobson TE. 2001. Wave-driven currents and vortex dynamics on barred beaches. J. Fluid Mech. 449:313-39 (Pubitemid 34002388)
    • (2001) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.449 , pp. 313-339
    • Buhler, O.1    Jacobson, T.E.2
  • 18
    • 28844504369 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphological development of rip channel systems: Normal and near-normal wave incidence
    • Calvete D, Dodd N, Falqués A, van Leeuwen S. 2005. Morphological development of rip channel systems: normal and near-normal wave incidence. J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans 110:C10006
    • (2005) J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans , vol.110
    • Calvete, D.1    Dodd, N.2    Falqués, A.3    Van Leeuwen, S.4
  • 19
    • 33746832435 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modélisation du courant sagittal induit par les vagues au-dessus des systemes barre/baïne de la cote aquitaine (France)
    • DOI 10.1016/j.crte.2006.06.003, PII S1631071306001404
    • Castelle B, Bonneton P. 2006. Modelling of a rip current induced by waves over a ridge and runnel system on the Aquitanian Coast, France. C. R. Geosci. 338:711-17 (Pubitemid 44173819)
    • (2006) Comptes Rendus - Geoscience , vol.338 , Issue.10 , pp. 711-717
    • Castelle, B.1    Bonneton, P.2
  • 20
    • 79951993112 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A large-scale laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed: Drifter measurements
    • 2009 ed. M Mizuguchi, S Sato, Pap. Singapore: World Sci.
    • Castelle B, Michallet H, Marieu V, Leckler F, Bubardier B, et al. 2009. A large-scale laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed: drifter measurements. In Proc. Coast. Dyn. 2009, ed. M Mizuguchi, S Sato, Pap. 122. Singapore: World Sci.
    • (2009) Proc. Coast. Dyn. , pp. 122
    • Castelle, B.1    Michallet, H.2    Marieu, V.3    Leckler, F.4    Bubardier, B.5
  • 23
    • 1542316917 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • An optical technique for the measurement of longshore currents
    • Chickadel C, Holman R, Freilich M. 2003. An optical technique for the measurement of longshore currents. J. Geophys. Res. 108:3364
    • (2003) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.108 , pp. 3364
    • Chickadel, C.1    Holman, R.2    Freilich, M.3
  • 24
    • 33846897263 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Dye dispersion in the surf zone: Measurements and simple models
    • DOI 10.1016/j.csr.2006.10.010, PII S0278434306003694
    • Clarke L, Ackerman D, Largier J. 2007. Dye dispersion in the surf zone: measurements and simple models. Cont. Shelf Res. 27:650-69 (Pubitemid 46240582)
    • (2007) Continental Shelf Research , vol.27 , Issue.5 , pp. 650-669
    • Clarke, L.B.1    Ackerman, D.2    Largier, J.3
  • 25
    • 0001568745 scopus 로고
    • The occurrence and geologic work of rip currents off Southern California
    • Cook D. 1970. The occurrence and geologic work of rip currents off Southern California. Mar. Geol. 9:173-86
    • (1970) Mar. Geol. , vol.9 , pp. 173-86
    • Cook, D.1
  • 26
    • 0016446287 scopus 로고
    • A mechanism for rip current generation on an open coast
    • Dalrymple RA. 1975. A mechanism for rip current generation on an open coast. J. Geophys. Res. 80:3485-87
    • (1975) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.80 , pp. 3485-87
    • Dalrymple, R.A.1
  • 27
    • 0142006521 scopus 로고
    • Rip currents and their causes
    • Washington, DC: ASCE
    • Dalrymple R.A. 1978 Rip currents and their causes Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng 1414-27 Washington, DC: ASCE.
    • (1978) Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng , pp. 1414-27
    • Dalrymple, R.A.1
  • 28
    • 0017456075 scopus 로고
    • Wave-induced circulation in shallow basins
    • Dalrymple RA. 1978. Rip currents and their causes. In Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng, pp. 1414-27. Washington, DC: ASCE Dalrymple RA, Birkemeier WA, Eubanks RA. 1977. Wave-induced circulation in shallow basins. J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 103:117-35
    • (1977) J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. , vol.103 , pp. 117-135
    • Dalrymple, R.A.1    Birkemeier, W.A.2    Eubanks, R.A.3
  • 30
    • 0017878292 scopus 로고
    • Wave-current interaction model for rip currents
    • Dalrymple RA, Lozano CJ. 1978. Wave-current interaction model for rip currents. J. Geophys. Res. 83:6063-71
    • (1978) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.83 , pp. 6063-71
    • Dalrymple, R.A.1    Lozano, C.J.2
  • 31
    • 0036565050 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth
    • DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00034-0, PII S0378383902000340, Surf and swash zone mechanics
    • Damgaard J, Dodd N, Hall L, Chesher T. 2002. Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth. Coast. Eng. 45:199-221 (Pubitemid 34682503)
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.45 , Issue.3-4 , pp. 199-221
    • Damgaard, J.1    Dodd, N.2    Hall, L.3    Chesher, T.4
  • 32
    • 0029234606 scopus 로고
    • Three dimensional morphology in a narrow wave tank: Measurements and theory
    • ed. BL Edge Washington, DC: ASCE
    • Dean RG, Oh TM. 1995. Three dimensional morphology in a narrow wave tank: measurements and theory. In Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Vol. 2, ed. BL Edge, pp. 1906-18. Washington, DC: ASCE
    • (1995) Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. , vol.2 , pp. 1906-18
    • Dean, R.G.1    Oh, T.M.2
  • 33
    • 0032776007 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast
    • DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00005-8, PII S0378383999000058
    • Deigaard R, Drønen N, Fredsøe J, Jensen J, Jørgensen M. 1999. A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast. Coast. Eng. 36:171-95 (Pubitemid 29401024)
    • (1999) Coastal Engineering , vol.36 , Issue.3 , pp. 171-195
    • Deigaard, R.1    Dronen, N.2    Fredsoe, J.3    Jensen, J.H.4    Jorgensen, M.P.5
  • 34
    • 33846310781 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Quasi-three-dimensional modelling of the morphology of longshore bars
    • DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08.011, PII S0378383906001244
    • Drønen N, Deigaard R. 2007. Quasi-three-dimensional modeling of the morphology of longshore bars. Coast. Eng. 54:197-215 (Pubitemid 46117887)
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , Issue.3 , pp. 197-215
    • Dronen, N.1    Deigaard, R.2
  • 35
    • 17144469822 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • An experimental study of rip channel flow
    • DOI 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00035-2, PII S0378383902000352, Surf and swash zone mechanics
    • Drønen N, Karunarathna H, Fredsøe J, Sumer BM, Deigaard R. 2002. An experimental study of rip channel flow. Coast. Eng. 45:223-38 (Pubitemid 34682504)
    • (2002) Coastal Engineering , vol.45 , Issue.3-4 , pp. 223-238
    • Dronen, N.1    Karunarathna, H.2    Fredsoe, J.3    Mutlu Sumer, B.4    Deigaard, R.5
  • 38
    • 0033567584 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A note on hydrodynamic instabilities and horizontal circulation in the surf zone
    • Falqués A, Montoto A, Vila D. 1999. A note on hydrodynamic instabilities and horizontal circulation in the surf zone. J. Geophys. Res. 104:20605-16
    • (1999) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.104 , pp. 20605-16
    • Falqués, A.1    Montoto, A.2    Vila, D.3
  • 39
    • 31644431664 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Microwave radar cross sections and Doppler velocities measured from the surf zone
    • Farquharson G, Frasier B, Raubenheimer B, Elgar S. 2005. Microwave radar cross sections and Doppler velocities measured from the surf zone. J. Geophys. Res. 110:C12024
    • (2005) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.110
    • Farquharson, G.1    Frasier, B.2    Raubenheimer, B.3    Elgar, S.4
  • 40
    • 0025720899 scopus 로고
    • Wave group forced nearshore circulation
    • Washington, DC: ASCE ed. BL Edge
    • Fowler RE, Dalrymple RA. 1990. Wave group forced nearshore circulation. In Proc. 22nd Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., ed. BL Edge, pp. 729-42. Washington, DC: ASCE
    • (1990) Proc. 22nd Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. , pp. 729-42
    • Fowler, R.E.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 41
    • 28844463549 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Surf zone entrainment, along-shore transport, and human health implications of pollution from tidal outlets
    • Grant S, Kim JH, Jones BH, Jenkins SA, Wasyl J. 2005. Surf zone entrainment, along-shore transport, and human health implications of pollution from tidal outlets. J. Geophys. Res. 110:C10025
    • (2005) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.110
    • Grant, S.1    Kim, J.H.2    Jones, B.H.3    Jenkins, S.A.4    Wasyl, J.5
  • 42
    • 0000372265 scopus 로고
    • Edge waves and beach cusps
    • Guza RT, Inman DL. 1975. Edge waves and beach cusps. J. Geophys. Res. 80:2997-3012
    • (1975) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.80 , pp. 2997-3012
    • Guza, R.T.1    Inman, D.L.2
  • 43
    • 2642636514 scopus 로고
    • Measuring surf zone dynamics: A. General measurements
    • ed. RJ Seymour New York: Plenum
    • Guza RT, Thornton EB. 1989. Measuring surf zone dynamics: A. General measurements. In Nearshore Sediment Transport, ed. RJ Seymour, pp. 51-60. New York: Plenum
    • (1989) Nearshore Sediment Transport , pp. 51-60
    • Guza, R.T.1    Thornton, E.B.2
  • 44
    • 0037096001 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Laboratory measurements of the vertical structure of rip currents
    • Haas K, Svendsen I. 2002. Laboratory measurements of the vertical structure of rip currents. J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans 107:3047
    • (2002) J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans , vol.107 , pp. 3047
    • Haas, K.1    Svendsen, I.2
  • 46
    • 0031633750 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental modeling of a rip current system
    • ed. BL Edge, JM Hemsley Washington, DC: ASCE
    • Haller MC, Dalrymple R, Svendsen I. 1998. Experimental modeling of a rip current system. In Proc. Int. Symp. Ocean Wave Meas. Anal., Vol. 1, ed. BL Edge, JM Hemsley, pp. 750-64. Washington, DC: ASCE
    • (1998) Proc. Int. Symp. Ocean Wave Meas. Anal. , vol.1 , pp. 750-64
    • Haller, M.C.1    Dalrymple, R.2    Svendsen, I.3
  • 48
    • 0037098753 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels
    • Haller MC, Dalrymple RA, Svendsen IA. 2002. Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels. J. Geophys. Res. 107:3061
    • (2002) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.107 , pp. 3061
    • Haller, M.C.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2    Svendsen, I.A.3
  • 50
    • 0001146860 scopus 로고
    • A note on the generation and narrowness of periodic rip currents
    • Hammack J, Scheffner N, Segur H. 1990. A note on the generation and narrowness of periodic rip currents. J. Geophys. Res. 96(C3):4909-14
    • (1990) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.96 , Issue.C3 , pp. 4909-14
    • Hammack, J.1    Scheffner, N.2    Segur, H.3
  • 51
    • 53549097065 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mechanisms that influence the performance of beach nourishment: A case study in Delray Beach, Florida, USA
    • Hartog WM, BenedetL,Walstra DJ, KoningsveldMV,StiveM,FinklC.2008. Mechanisms that influence the performance of beach nourishment: a case study in Delray Beach, Florida, USA. J. Coast. Res. 24:1304-19
    • (2008) J. Coast. Res. , vol.24 , pp. 1304-19
    • Hartog, W.M.1    Benedet, L.2    Walstra, D.J.3    Koningsveld, M.V.4    Stive, M.5    Finkl, C.6
  • 52
    • 0016443166 scopus 로고
    • Theory on the formation of rip-current and cuspidal coast
    • Copenhagen Washington, DC: ASCE
    • Hino M. 1974. Theory on the formation of rip-current and cuspidal coast. In Proc. 14th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Copenhagen, pp. 901-19. Washington, DC: ASCE
    • (1974) Proc. 14th Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. , pp. 901-19
    • Hino, M.1
  • 53
    • 34248642268 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The history and technical capabilities of Argus
    • DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.01.003, PII S037838390700018X, The CoastView Project: Developing coastal video monitoring systems in support of coastal zone management
    • Holman RA, Stanley J. 2007. The history and technical capabilities of Argus. Coast. Eng. 54:477-91 (Pubitemid 46774239)
    • (2007) Coastal Engineering , vol.54 , Issue.6-7 , pp. 477-491
    • Holman, R.A.1    Stanley, J.2
  • 56
    • 0019677948 scopus 로고
    • Field observations of surf beat. 1. Progressive edge waves
    • Huntley DA, Guza RT, Thornton EB. 1981. Field observations of surf beat. 1. Progressive edge waves. J. Geophys. Res. 86:6451-66
    • (1981) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.86 , pp. 6451-66
    • Huntley, D.A.1    Guza, R.T.2    Thornton, E.B.3
  • 57
    • 0002269156 scopus 로고
    • The coastal challenge
    • Inman DL, Brush BM. 1973. The coastal challenge. Science 181:20-32
    • (1973) Science , vol.181 , pp. 20-32
    • Inman, D.L.1    Brush, B.M.2
  • 58
    • 2342606943 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Transient rip currents and nearshore circulation on a swell-dominated beach
    • Johnson D, Pattiaratchi C. 2004. Transient rip currents and nearshore circulation on a swell-dominated beach. J. Geophys. Res. 109:C02026
    • (2004) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.109
    • Johnson, D.1    Pattiaratchi, C.2
  • 59
    • 1642497506 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A compact, low-cost GPS drifter for use in the oceanic nearshore zone, lakes and estuaries
    • DOI 10.1175/1520-0426(2003)020<1880:ACLGDF>2.0.CO;2
    • Johnson D, Stocker R, Head R, Imberger J, Pattiaratchi C. 2003. A compact, low-cost GPS drifter for use in the oceanic nearshore zone, lakes, and estuaries. J. Atmos. Ocean. Technol. 18:1880-84 (Pubitemid 38122802)
    • (2003) Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology , vol.20 , Issue.12 , pp. 1880-1884
    • Johnson, D.1    Stocker, R.2    Head, R.3    Imberger, J.4    Pattiaratchi, C.5
  • 60
    • 0842344500 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A circulation description of a rip current neck
    • DOI 10.1017/S0022112003006827
    • Kennedy A. 2003. A circulation description of a rip current neck. J. Fluid Mech. 497:225-34 (Pubitemid 38171597)
    • (2003) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.497 , pp. 225-234
    • Kennedy, A.B.1
  • 61
    • 7244240817 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Drifter measurements in a laboratory rip current
    • Kennedy A, Thomas D. 2004. Drifter measurements in a laboratory rip current. J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans 109:C08005
    • (2004) J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans , vol.109
    • Kennedy, A.1    Thomas, D.2
  • 62
    • 69549107383 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The stability of wave-driven rip current circulation
    • Kennedy A, Zhang Y. 2008. The stability of wave-driven rip current circulation. J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans 113:C03031
    • (2008) J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans , vol.113
    • Kennedy, A.1    Zhang, Y.2
  • 65
    • 0001058065 scopus 로고
    • Nearshore cell circulation and the formation of giant cusps
    • Komar PD. 1971. Nearshore cell circulation and the formation of giant cusps. Geol. Soc. Am. Bull. 82:2643-50
    • (1971) Geol. Soc. Am. Bull. , vol.82 , pp. 2643-50
    • Komar, P.D.1
  • 66
    • 0004168443 scopus 로고
    • New York: Dover. 6th ed
    • Lamb H. 1945. Hydrodynamics. New York: Dover. 6th ed.
    • (1945) Hydrodynamics
    • Lamb, H.1
  • 67
    • 0842293527 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • East central Florida rip current program
    • Lascody R. 1998. East central Florida rip current program. Natl. Weather Dig. 22:25-30
    • (1998) Natl. Weather Dig. , vol.22 , pp. 25-30
    • Lascody, R.1
  • 68
    • 0025585279 scopus 로고
    • The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology
    • Lippmann TC, Holman RA. 1990. The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology. J. Geophys. Res. 95:11575-90
    • (1990) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.95 , pp. 11575-90
    • Lippmann, T.C.1    Holman, R.A.2
  • 70
    • 73949151280 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Low frequency characteristics of wave group-forced vortices
    • L̈ong JW, Ozkan-Haller HT. 2009. Low frequency characteristics of wave group-forced vortices. J. Geophys. Res. 114:C08004
    • (2009) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.114
    • L̈ong, J.W.1    Ozkan-Haller, H.T.2
  • 71
    • 50549200900 scopus 로고
    • Radiation stresses in water waves: A physical discussion with applications
    • Longuet-Higgins MS, Stewart RW. 1964. Radiation stresses in water waves: a physical discussion with applications. Deep-Sea Res. 11:529-63
    • (1964) Deep-Sea Res. , vol.11 , pp. 529-63
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 72
    • 84958426610 scopus 로고
    • The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents
    • Longuet-Higgins MS, Stewart RW. 1961. The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. J. Fluid Mech. 10:529-49
    • (1961) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.10 , pp. 529-49
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 73
    • 20444428206 scopus 로고
    • A study of rip current drownings and related weather factors
    • Lushine J. 1991. A study of rip current drownings and related weather factors. Natl. Weather Dig. 16:13-19
    • (1991) Natl. Weather Dig. , vol.16 , pp. 13-19
    • Lushine, J.1
  • 74
    • 0034746036 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Hydrographic surveying from personal watercraft
    • MacMahan J. 2001. Hydrographic surveying from personal watercraft. J. Surv. Eng. 127:12-24
    • (2001) J. Surv. Eng. , vol.127 , pp. 12-24
    • MacMahan, J.1
  • 75
    • 67649531469 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Low-cost handheld global positioning system for measuring surf-zone currents
    • MacMahan J, Brown J, Thornton E. 2009. Low-cost handheld global positioning system for measuring surf-zone currents. J. Coast. Res. 25:744-54
    • (2009) J. Coast. Res. , vol.25 , pp. 744-54
    • MacMahan, J.1    Brown, J.2    Thornton, E.3
  • 76
    • 77954478342 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Vortical surfzone velocity fluctuations with 0(10) minute period
    • MacMahan J, Reniers A, Thornton E. 2010a. Vortical surfzone velocity fluctuations with 0(10) minute period. J. Geophys. Res. 115:C06007
    • (2010) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.115
    • MacMahan, J.1    Reniers, A.2    Thornton, E.3
  • 79
    • 56049126162 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Low-energy rip currents associated with small bathymetric variations
    • MacMahan J, Thornton E, Reniers A, Stanton T, Symonds G. 2008. Low-energy rip currents associated with small bathymetric variations. Mar. Geol. 255:156-64
    • (2008) Mar. Geol. , vol.255 , pp. 156-64
    • MacMahan, J.1    Thornton, E.2    Reniers, A.3    Stanton, T.4    Symonds, G.5
  • 80
    • 20444372707 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • RIPEX: Observations of a rip current system
    • DOI 10.1016/j.margeo.2005.03.019, PII S0025322705000885
    • MacMahan J, Thornton E, Stanton T, Reniers A. 2005. Ripex: observations of a rip current system. Mar. Geol. 218:113-34 (Pubitemid 40793520)
    • (2005) Marine Geology , vol.218 , Issue.1-4 , pp. 113-134
    • MacMahan, J.H.1    Thornton, E.B.2    Stanton, T.P.3    Reniers, A.J.H.M.4
  • 81
    • 72649095418 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mean Lagrangian flow behavior on an open rip-channeled beach: A new perspective
    • MacMahan JH, Brown J, Brown J, Thornton E, Reniers A, et al. 2010b. Mean Lagrangian flow behavior on an open rip-channeled beach: a new perspective. Mar. Geol. 268:1-15
    • (2010) Mar. Geol. , vol.268 , pp. 1-15
    • MacMahan, J.H.1    Brown, J.2    Brown, J.3    Thornton, E.4    Reniers, A.5
  • 82
    • 0026191546 scopus 로고
    • New form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics
    • DOI 10.1016/0378-3839(91)90017-B
    • Madsen PA, Murray R, Sørensen O. 1991. A new form of Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Coast. Eng. 15:371-88 (Pubitemid 21695216)
    • (1991) Coastal Engineering , vol.15 , Issue.4 , pp. 371-388
    • Madsen Per, A.1    Murray Russel2    Sorensen Ole, R.3
  • 83
    • 0029412963 scopus 로고
    • Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone
    • DOI 10.1016/0278-4343(95)00037-2
    • Masselink G. 1995. Group bound long waves as a source of infragravity energy in the surf zone. Cont. Shelf Res. 15:1525-47 (Pubitemid 26462753)
    • (1995) Continental Shelf Research , vol.15 , Issue.13 , pp. 1525-1547
    • Masselink, G.1
  • 84
    • 0032529815 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • S band Doppler radar measurements of bathymetry, wave energy fluxes, and dissipation across an offshore bar
    • McGregor JA, Poulter EM, Smith MJ. 1998. S band Doppler radar measurements of bathymetry, wave energy fluxes, and dissipation across an offshore bar. J. Geophys. Res. 103:18779-89
    • (1998) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.103 , pp. 18779-89
    • McGregor, J.A.1    Poulter, E.M.2    Smith, M.J.3
  • 85
    • 0018304228 scopus 로고
    • Littoral currents around breakwaters
    • 2 Washington, DC: ASCE
    • Mizumura K. 1979. Littoral currents around breakwaters. In Proc. Coast. Struct. 79, Vol. 2, pp. 778-91. Washington, DC: ASCE
    • (1979) Proc. Coast. Struct. , vol.79 , pp. 778-91
    • Mizumura, K.1
  • 86
    • 84952494394 scopus 로고
    • The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems
    • Munk WH. 1949. The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems. Ann. N. Y. Acad. Sci. 51:376-424
    • (1949) Ann. N. Y. Acad. Sci. , vol.51 , pp. 376-424
    • Munk, W.H.1
  • 87
    • 84873835481 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rip currents: Mechanisms and observations
    • ed. JM Smith Singapore: World Sci.
    • Nelko V, Dalrymple RA. 2008. Rip currents: mechanisms and observations. In Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., ed. JM Smith, pp. 888-900. Singapore: World Sci.
    • (2008) Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. , pp. 888-900
    • Nelko, V.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 89
    • 0024823176 scopus 로고
    • Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current, 2
    • Oltman-Shay J, Howd P, Birkemeier W. 1989. Shear instabilities of the mean longshore current, 2. J. Geophys. Res. 94:18031-42
    • (1989) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.94 , pp. 18031-42
    • Oltman-Shay, J.1    Howd, P.2    Birkemeier, W.3
  • 90
    • 0033571816 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observation and computations
    • Özkan-Haller T, Kirby J. 1999. Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: a comparison of observation and computations. J. Geophys. Res. 104:25953-84
    • (1999) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.104 , pp. 25953-84
    • Özkan-Haller, T.1    Kirby, J.2
  • 93
    • 84958426983 scopus 로고
    • Long waves on a beach
    • Peregrine DH. 1967. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27:815-27
    • (1967) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.27 , pp. 815-27
    • Peregrine, D.H.1
  • 95
    • 13944279607 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: A video imaging and numerical modelling study
    • DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.07.018, PII S0378383904000900
    • Ranasinghe R, Symonds G, Black K, Holman R. 2004. Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modelling study. Coast. Eng. 51:629-55 (Pubitemid 40273421)
    • (2004) Coastal Engineering , vol.51 , Issue.7 , pp. 629-655
    • Ranasinghe, R.1    Symonds, G.2    Black, K.3    Holman, R.4
  • 96
    • 33646094721 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Shoreline response to multifunctional artificial surfing reefs: A numerical and physical modeling study
    • Ranasinghe R, Turner IL, Symonds G. 2006. Shoreline response to multifunctional artificial surfing reefs: a numerical and physical modeling study. Coast. Eng. 53:589-611
    • (2006) Coast. Eng. , vol.53 , pp. 589-611
    • Ranasinghe, R.1    Turner, I.L.2    Symonds, G.3
  • 97
    • 2342662617 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing
    • Reniers A, Roelvink J, Thornton E. 2004. Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing. J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans 109:C01030
    • (2004) J. Geophys. Res. C Oceans , vol.109
    • Reniers, A.1    Roelvink, J.2    Thornton, E.3
  • 98
    • 34548656503 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Modeling of very low frequency motions during RIPEX
    • Reniers AJHM. 2007. Modeling of very low frequency motions during RIPEX. J. Geophys. Res. 112:C07013
    • (2007) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.112
    • Reniers, A.J.H.M.1
  • 103
    • 0020968451 scopus 로고
    • LONGSHORE MOTION DUE TO AN OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVE GROUP
    • Ryrie S. 1983. Longshore motion due to an obliquely incident wave group. J. Fluid Mech. 137:273-84 (Pubitemid 14547472)
    • (1983) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.137 , pp. 273-284
    • Ryrie, S.C.1
  • 107
    • 0141902735 scopus 로고
    • Undertow, rip tide or "rip current"
    • Shepard FP. 1936. Undertow, rip tide or "rip current". Science 84:181-82
    • (1936) Science , vol.84 , pp. 181-82
    • Shepard, F.P.1
  • 108
    • 0000504693 scopus 로고
    • Rip currents: A process of geological importance
    • Shepard FP, Emory KO, La Fond EC. 1941. Rip currents: a process of geological importance. J. Geol. 49:337-69
    • (1941) J. Geol. , vol.49 , pp. 337-69
    • Shepard, F.P.1    Emory, K.O.2    La Fond, E.C.3
  • 109
    • 84981750475 scopus 로고
    • Nearshore circulation related to bottom topography and wave refraction
    • Shepard FP, Inman DL. 1950. Nearshore circulation related to bottom topography and wave refraction. Trans. Am. Geophys. Union 31:196-212
    • (1950) Trans. Am. Geophys. Union , vol.31 , pp. 196-212
    • Shepard, F.P.1    Inman, D.L.2
  • 110
    • 0022197237 scopus 로고
    • Rip-current type, spacing and persistence, Narrabeen Beach, Australia
    • Short AD. 1985. Rip-current type, spacing and persistence, Narrabeen Beach, Australia. Mar. Geol. 65:47-71
    • (1985) Mar. Geol. , vol.65 , pp. 47-71
    • Short, A.D.1
  • 112
    • 84873860789 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Morphodynamic modelling of up-state and down-state transitions at Palm Beach, Australia
    • ed. JM Smith Singapore: World Sci.
    • Smit MWJ, Reniers AJHM, Symonds G, Ruessink BG. 2008. Morphodynamic modelling of up-state and down-state transitions at Palm Beach, Australia. In Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng., Vol. 3, ed. JM Smith, pp. 2437-45. Singapore: World Sci.
    • (2008) Proc. 31st Int. Conf. Coast. Eng. , vol.3 , pp. 2437-45
    • Mwj, S.1    Ajhm, R.2    Symonds, G.3    Ruessink, B.G.4
  • 113
    • 0029502560 scopus 로고
    • Observations of nearshore circulation: Rip currents
    • Smith JA, Largier JL. 1995. Observations of nearshore circulation: rip currents. J. Geophys. Res. 100:10967-75
    • (1995) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.100 , pp. 10967-75
    • Smith, J.A.1    Largier, J.L.2
  • 114
    • 0000018166 scopus 로고
    • Field observations of nearshore circulation and meandering currents
    • Sonu CJ. 1972. Field observations of nearshore circulation and meandering currents. J. Geophys. Res. 77:3232-47
    • (1972) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.77 , pp. 3232-47
    • Sonu, C.J.1
  • 115
    • 0037711792 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model: Part III
    • Sørensen O, Schäffer H, Madsen P. 1998. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model: part III. Coast. Eng. 33:155-76
    • (1998) Coast. Eng. , vol.33 , pp. 155-76
    • Sørensen, O.1    Schäffer, H.2    Madsen, P.3
  • 116
    • 0033664011 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Esimation of wave phase speed and nearshore bathymetry from video imagery
    • Stockdon HF, Holman RA. 2000. Esimation of wave phase speed and nearshore bathymetry from video imagery. J. Geophys. Res. 105:22015-33
    • (2000) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.105 , pp. 22015-33
    • Stockdon, H.F.1    Holman, R.A.2
  • 117
    • 0023468828 scopus 로고
    • Rip current characteristics and their role in the exchange of water and surf diatoms between the surf zone and nearshore
    • Talbot M, Bate G. 1987. Rip current characteristics and their role in the exchange of water and surf diatoms between the surf zone and nearshore. Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. 25:707-20
    • (1987) Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci. , vol.25 , pp. 707-20
    • Talbot, M.1    Bate, G.2
  • 118
    • 2342637800 scopus 로고
    • Nearshore circulation: Rip currents and wave groups
    • ed. RJ Seymour New York: Plenum
    • Tang ECS, Dalrymple RA. 1989. Nearshore circulation: rip currents and wave groups. In Nearshore Sediment Transport Study, ed. RJ Seymour, pp. 205-30. New York: Plenum
    • (1989) Nearshore Sediment Transport Study , pp. 205-30
    • Ecs, T.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 119
    • 36749048283 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A dissipative point-vortex model for nearshore circulation
    • DOI 10.1017/S0022112007008130, PII S0022112007008130
    • Terrile E, Brocchini M. 2007. A dissipative point-vortex model for nearshore circulation. J. Fluid Mech. 589:455-78 (Pubitemid 350214597)
    • (2007) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.589 , pp. 455-478
    • Terrile, E.1    Brocchini, M.2
  • 120
    • 34247569902 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes
    • DOI 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.02.018, PII S0025322707000539
    • Thornton E, MacMahan J, Sallenger A Jr. 2007. Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes. Mar. Geol. 240:151-67 (Pubitemid 46678075)
    • (2007) Marine Geology , vol.240 , Issue.1-4 , pp. 151-167
    • Thornton, E.B.1    MacMahan, J.2    Sallenger Jr., A.H.3
  • 121
    • 56349129582 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Beach Wizard: Nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations
    • Van Dongeren A, Plant N, Cohen A, Roelvink D, Haller MC, Catalan P. 2008. Beach Wizard: nearshore bathymetry estimation through assimilation of model computations and remote observations. Coast. Eng. 55:1016-27
    • (2008) Coast. Eng. , vol.55 , pp. 1016-27
    • Van Dongeren, A.1    Plant, N.2    Cohen, A.3    Roelvink, D.4    Haller, M.C.5    Catalan, P.6
  • 125
    • 0029343414 scopus 로고
    • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves
    • Wei G, Kirby JT, Grilli S, Subramanya R. 1995. A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. I. Highly nonlinear, unsteady waves. J. Fluid Mech. 294:71-92 (Pubitemid 26463133)
    • (1995) Journal of Fluid Mechanics , vol.294 , pp. 71-92
    • Ge Wei1    Kirby, J.T.2    Grilli, S.T.3    Subramanya, R.4
  • 126
    • 0022790059 scopus 로고
    • Rip-current generation near structures
    • Wind HG, Vreugdenhil CB. 1986. Rip-current generation near structures. J. Fluid Mech. 171:459-76
    • (1986) J. Fluid Mech. , vol.171 , pp. 459-76
    • Wind, H.G.1    Vreugdenhil, C.B.2
  • 127
    • 0021642088 scopus 로고
    • MORPHODYNAMIC VARIABILITY OF SURF ZONES AND BEACHES: A SYNTHESIS
    • Wright LD, Short AD. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches. Mar. Geol. 56:93-118 (Pubitemid 14584448)
    • (1984) Marine Geology , vol.56 , Issue.1-4 , pp. 93-118
    • Wright, L.D.1    Short, A.D.2
  • 128
    • 34447279232 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Beach sands along the California coast are diffuse sources of fecal bacteria to coastal waters
    • DOI 10.1021/es062822n
    • Yamahara K, Layton B, Santoro A, Boehm A. 2007. Beach sands along the California Coast are diffuse sources of fecal bacteria to coastal waters. Environ. Sci. Technol. 41:4515-21 (Pubitemid 47047382)
    • (2007) Environmental Science and Technology , vol.41 , Issue.13 , pp. 4515-4521
    • Yamahara, K.M.1    Layton, B.A.2    Santoro, A.E.3    Boehm, A.B.4
  • 129
    • 0142123973 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Effects of wave-current interaction on rip currents
    • Yu J, Slinn D. 2003. Effects of wave-current interaction on rip currents. J. Geophys. Res. 108:3088
    • (2003) J. Geophys. Res. , vol.108 , pp. 3088
    • Yu, J.1    Slinn, D.2


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.