A behavior-oriented dynamic model for sandbar migration and 2DH evolution

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans

Volumn 116, Issue 1, 2011, Pages

  Splinter, Kristen D ^a,b   Holman, Robert A ^a   Plant, Nathaniel G ^c  

^a OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY   (United States)

^b GRIFFITH UNIVERSITY   (Australia)

^c U S GEOLOGICAL SURVEY   (United States)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

ANOXIC SEDIMENTS; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT;

BEHAVIOR-ORIENTED; BEST-FIT MODELS; BREAKING WAVES; NEW SOUTH WALES , AUSTRALIA; NON-LINEAR MODEL; OFFSHORE WAVES; PARAMETRIC EQUATION; PARAMETRIC FORMS; SKILL SCORE; TIME-DEPENDENT; TIME-SCALES; TRANSPORT EQUATION; WEIGHTED NONLINEAR LEAST SQUARES;

MORPHOLOGY;

BREAKING WAVE; COASTAL ZONE; ESTIMATION METHOD; HYSTERESIS; NONLINEARITY; SANDBAR; SEDIMENT TRANSPORT; TIME DEPENDENT BEHAVIOR; TIMESCALE; TWO-DIMENSIONAL FLOW;

AUSTRALIA; NEW SOUTH WALES;

EID: 79551645518     PISSN: None     EISSN: 21699291     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1029/2010JC006382     Document Type: Article

References (53)

1. Alexander, P. S., and R. A. Holman (2004), Quantitative analysis of nearshore morphological variability based on video imaging, Mar. Geol., 208(1), 101-111.
2. Allen, J. S., P. A. Newberger, and R. A. Holman (1996), Nonlinear shear instabilities of alongshore currents on plane beaches, J. Fluid Mech., 310, 181-213.
3. Bagnold, R. A. (1941), The Physics of Blown Sand and Desert Dunes, Methuen, New York.
4. Bagnold, R. A. (1963), Mechanics of marine sedimentation, in The Sea, vol. 3, edited by M. Hill, pp. 507-528, Wiley-Interscience, New York.
5. Bailard, J. A. (1981), An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach, J. Geophys. Res., 86(C11), 10,938-10,954.
6. Bowen, A. J. (1980), Simple models of nearshore sedimentation; beach profiles and longshore bars, in The Coastline of Canada, vol. Paper 80-10, edited by S. McCann, pp. 1-11, Geological Survey of Canada, Ottawa.
7. Calvete, D., N. Dodd, A. Falques, and S. van Leeuwen (2005), Morphological development of rip channel systems: Normal and near normal wave incidence, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C10006, doi:10.1029/2004JC002803.
8. Coco, G., and A. B. Murray (2007), Patterns in the sand: From forcing templates to self-organization, Geomorphology, 91, 271-290.
9. Dean, R. G., and R. A. Dalrymple (1991), Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, vol. 2, World Sci., Singapore.
10. Drønen, N., and R. Deigaard (2007), Quasi-3-D modelling of the morphology of longshore bars, Coastal Eng., 54, 197-215.
11. Durran, D. R. (1999), Numerical Methods for Wave Equations in Geophysical Fluid Dynamics, Springer, New York.
12. Elgar, S., E. L. Gallagher, and R. Guza (2001), Nearshore sandbar migration, J. Geophys. Res., 106, 11,623-11,627.
13. Feddersen, F., and R. T. Guza (2003), Observations of nearshore circulation: Alongshore uniformity, J. Geophys. Res., 108(C1), 3006, doi:10.1029/2001JC001293.
14. Gallagher, E. L., R. T. Guza, and S. Elgar (1998), Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach, J. Geophys. Res., 103(C2), 3203-3215.
15. Garnier, R., D. Calvete, A. Falques, and N. Dodd (2008), Modelling the formation and the long-term behavior of rip channel systems from the deformation of a longshore bar, J. Geophys. Res., 113, C07053, doi:10.1029/2007JC004632.
16. Haller, M. C., R. A. Dalrymple, and I. A. Svendsen (2002), Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels, J. Geophys. Res., 107(C6), 3061, doi:10.1029/2001JC000955.
17. Henderson, S. M., J. S. Allen, and P. A. Newberger (2004), Nearshore sandbar migration predicted by an eddy-diffusive boundary layer model, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06024, doi:10.1029/2003JC002137.
18. Hoefel, F., and S. Elgar (2003), Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration, Science, 299(5614), 1885-1887.
19. Holland, K. T., R. A. Holman, T. C. Lippmann, J. Stanley, and N. G. Plant (1997), Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies, IEEE J. Ocean Eng., 22(1), 81-92, doi:10.1109/48.557542.
20. Holman, R. A., J. Stanley, and H. T. Özkan Haller (2003), Applying video sensor networks to nearshore environmental monitoring, IEEE Pervasive Comput., 2(4), 14-21.
21. Holman, R. A., G. Symonds, E. B. Thornton, and R. Ranasinghe (2006), Rip spacing and persistence on an embayed beach, J. Geophys. Res., 111, C01006, doi:10.1029/2005JC002965.
22. Holthuijsen, L. H., N. Booij, and T. H. C. Herbers (1989), A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currents, Coastal Eng., 17(23), 211-225.
23. Komar, P. D. (1974), Beach Processes and Sedimentation, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, N. J.
24. Komar, P. D., and D. L. Inman (1970), Longshore sand transport on beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 75, 5914-5927.
25. Kriebel, D. L., and R. G. Dean (1985), Numerical simulation of timedependent beach and dune erosion, Coastal Eng., 9, 221-245.
26. Larson, M., and N. C. Kraus (1989), Sbeach: Numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change; report 1, empirical foundation and model development, Tech. Rep. 89-9, Coastal Eng. Res. Cent., U.S. Army Eng. Waterw. Exp. Stn., Vicksburg, Miss.
27. Lippmann, T. C., and R. A. Holman (1989), Quantification of sand bar morphology: A video technique based on wave dissipation, J. Geophys. Res., 94(C1), 995-1011.
28. Lippmann, T. C., and R. A. Holman (1990), The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology, J. Geophys. Res., 95(C7), 11,575-11,590.
29. Mei, C. C. (1989), The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves, World Sci., Singapore.
30. Pape, L., B. G. Ruessink, M. A. Wiering, and I. L. Turner (2007), Recurrent neural network modeling of nearshore sandbar behavior, Neural Networks, 20, 509-518, doi:10.1016/j.neunet.2007.04.007.
31. Pape, L., Y. Kuriyama, and B. G. Ruessink (2010a), Models and scales for cross-shore sandbar migration, J. Geophys. Res., 115, F03043, doi:10.1029/2009JF001644.
32. Pape, L., N. G. Plant, and B. G. Ruessink (2010b), On cross-shore migration and equilibrium states of nearshore sandbars, J. Geophys. Res., 115, F03008, doi:10.1029/2009JF001501.
33. Plant, N. G., R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich (1999), A simple model for interannual sand bar behavior, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C7), 15,755-15,776.
34. Plant, N. G., M. H. Freilich, and R. A. Holman (2001), The role of morphological feedback in surf zone sand bar response, J. Geophys. Res., 106(C1), 973-989.
35. Plant, N. G., K. Todd Holland, and R. A. Holman (2006), A dynamical attractor governs beach response to storms, Geophys. Res. Lett., 33, L17607, doi:10.1029/2006GL027105.
36. Ranasinghe, R., G. Symonds, K. Black, and R. A. Holman (2004), Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modeling study, Coastal Eng., 51, 629-655.
37. Reniers, A. J. H. M., J. A. Roelvink, and E. B. Thornton (2004), Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C01030, doi:10.1029/2002JC001586.
38. Roelvink, J. A., and M. J. F. Stive (1989), Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach, J. Geophys. Res., 94(C4), 4785-4800.
39. Ruessink, B. G., J. R. Miles, F. Feddersen, R. T. Guza, and S. Elgar (2001), Modeling the alongshore current on barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 106(C10), 22,451-22,463.
40. Ruessink, B. G., K. M. Wijnberg, R. A. Holman, Y. Kuriyama, and I. M. J. van Enckevort (2003), Intersite comparison of interannual nearshore bar behavior, J. Geophys. Res., 108(C8), 3249, doi:10.1029/2002JC001505.
41. Ruessink, B. G., Y. Kuriyama, A. J. H. M. Reniers, J. A. Roelvink, and D. J. R. Walstra (2007), Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks, J. Geophys. Res., 112, F03010, doi:10.1029/2006JF000730.
42. Sallenger, A. H., Jr., and P. A. Howd (1989), Nearshore bars and the breakpoint hypothesis, Coastal Eng., 12, 301-313.
43. Short, A. D., and N. L. Trenaman (1992), Wave climate of the Sydney region, and energetic and highly variable ocean wave regime, Aust. J. Mar. Freshwater Res., 43, 765-791.
44. Splinter, K. D. (2009), Development of 2D models to estimate nearshore bathymetry and sediment transport, Ph.D. thesis, Oreg. State Univ., Corvallis.
45. Svendsen, I. A. (1984), Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone, Coastal Eng., 8, 347-364.
46. Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza (1983), Transformation of wave height distribution, J. Geophys. Res., 88(C10), 5925-5938.
47. van Enckevort, I. M. J., B. G. Ruessink, G. Coco, K. Suzuki, I. L. Turner, N. G. Plant, and R. A. Holman (2004), Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06028, doi:10.1029/2003JC002214.
48. Wilson, G. W. (2009), Field validation of a nearshore circulation model for alongshore-nonuniform flows,Master's thesis, Oreg. State Univ., Corvallis.
49. Wright, L. D., and A. D. Short (1984), Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56, 93-118.
50. Wright, L. D., F. C. Coffey, and P. J. Cowell (1980), Nearshore oceanography and morphodynamics of the Broken Bay - Palm Beach region, N.S.W.: Implications for offshore dredging, Tech. Rep. 80/1, Coastal Stud. Unit, Dep. of Geogr.,Univ. of Sydney, Sydney, Australia.
51. Wright, L. D., A. D. Short, and M. O. Green (1985), Short-term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: An empirical predictive model, Mar. Geol., 62, 339-364.
52. Wright, L. D., A. D. Short, J. D. Boon III, B. Hayden, S. Kimball, and J. H. List (1987), The morphodynamic effects of incident wave groupiness and tide range on an energetic beach, Mar. Geol., 74, 1-20.
53. Yu, J., and D. N. Slinn (2003), Effects of wave-current interaction on rip currents, J. Geophys. Res., 108(C3), 3088, doi:10.1029/2001JC001105.