Delocalization and persistence in the European clothing industry: The reconfiguration of trade and production Networks

Regional Studies

Volumn 45, Issue 2, 2011, Pages 167-185

  Pickles, John ^a   Smith, Adrian ^b  

^a University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill   (United States)

^b QUEEN MARY UNIVERSITY OF LONDON   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

Clothing industry; Delocalization of production; East central europe; Global production networks; Global trade liberalization; Global value chains

Indexed keywords

CLOTHING INDUSTRY; CORPORATE STRATEGY; GLOBALIZATION; INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTION; PERSISTENCE; TRADE FLOW; TRADE LIBERALIZATION;

EUROPE;

EID: 79551593488     PISSN: 00343404     EISSN: 13600591     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1080/00343401003601933     Document Type: Article

References (48)

1. ABERNATHY F. H., VOLPE A. and WEIL D. (2006) The future of the apparel and textile industries: prospects and choices for public and private actors, Environment and Planning A 38(12), 2207-2232.
2. ABERNATHY F. and WEIL D. (2004) Apparel apocalypse? The Americas' textile industries won't die when quotas do, The Washington Post 18 November, 39.
3. BAIR J. (2005) Global capitalism and commodity chains: looking back, going forward, Competition and Change 9, 153-180.
4. BAIR J. and GEREFFI G. (2001) Local clusters in global chains: the causes and consequences of export dynamism in Torreon's blue jeans industry, World Development 29, 1885-1903.
5. BAIR J. and GEREFFI G. (2003) Upgrading, uneven development, and jobs in the North American apparel industry, Global Networks 3, 143-69.
6. BEGG R., PICKLES J. and ROUKOVA P. (2000) A new participant in the global apparel industry: the case of southern Bulgaria, Problemi na Geografiata 3-4, 121-135.
7. BEGG R., PICKLES J. and SMITH A. (2003) Cutting it: European integration, trade regimes and the reconfiguration of East-Central European apparel production, Environment and Planning A 35, 2191-2207.
8. CURRAN L. (2008a) Forecasting the trade outcomes of liberalisation in a quota context - what dowe learn from changes in textiles trade after the ATC?, Journal of World Trade 42, 129-150.
9. CURRAN L. (2008b) Unpicking the textiles trade - the impact of liberalization on the global textiles sector, Global Trade and Customs Journal 3, 261-274.
10. DICKEN P. (2007) Global Shift, 5th Edn. Sage, London.
11. DUNFORD M. (2006) Industrial districts, magic circles, and the restructuring of the Italian textile and clothing chain, Economic Geography 82, 27-59.
12. EMERGING TEXTILES ONLINE (2007a) China May Rapidly Exceed 50% of Post-Quota Import Markets, Canada's Data Indicate (Statistical Report), Emerging Textiles Online Daily Newsletter 14 August (available at: http://www.emergingtextiles.com/?q=art&s=070813-apparel-import).
13. EMERGING TEXTILESONLINE (2007b) Hong Kong Clothing Re-Exports in First Half 2007 (Statistical Report), Emerging Textiles Online Daily Newsletter 10 August (available at: http://www.emergingtextiles.com/?q=art&s=070810-hong-kong-apparel&r=&n=1).
14. EUROPEAN COMMISSION (2007) External Trade (available at: http://ec.europa.eu/trade/issues/sectoral/industry/textile/faqs 190707_en.htm).
15. EUROPEAN COMMISSION EUROSTAT (n.d.) (available at: http://epp.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/portal/page/portal/product_details/dataset?p_product_code1/4PRC_HICP_AIND).
16. EVANS Y. and SMITH A. (2006) Surviving at the margins? Deindustrialisation, the creative industries, and upgrading in London's garment sector, Environment and Planning A 38, 2253-2269.
17. FRANCOIS J., MANCHIN M., NORBERG H. and SPINANGER D. (2007) Impacts of Textiles and Clothing Liberalisation on Prices. Report. Kiel Institute for the World Economy for DG Trade, Kiel.
18. FRöbel F., HEINRICHES J. and KREYE O. (1981) New International Division of Labour: Structural Unemployment in Industrialised Countries and Industrialisation in Developing Countries. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge
19. GEREFFI G. (1999) International trade and industrial up-grading in the apparel commodity chain, Journal of International Economics 48, 37-70.
20. GEREFFI G. (2006) The New Offshoring of Jobs and Global Development, Social Policy Lectures, Jamaica, December 2005. International Institute for Labor Studies, International Labor Organization (ILO), Geneva.
21. GEREFFI G. and MEMEDOVIC O. (2003) The Global Apparel Value Chain:What Prospects for Upgrading by Developing Countries. Sectoral Studies Series. United National Industrial Development Organization, Geneva.
22. GLASMEIER A., THOMPSON J. and KAYS A. (1993) The geography of trade policy: trade regimes and location decisions in the textile and apparel complex, Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers 18, 19-35.
23. GRAZIANI G. (1998) Globalization of Production in the Textile and Clothing Industries: The Case of Italian Foreign Direct Investment and Outward Processing in Eastern Europe. Working Paper Number 128, May. Berkeley Roundtable on the International Economy (BRIE), University of California -Berkeley, Berkeley, CA.
24. HUDSON R. (2005) Economic Geographies: Circuits, Flows and Spaces. Sage, London.
25. HUMPHREY J. and SCHMITZ H. (2002) Governance and Upgrading: Linking Industrial Cluster and Global Value Chain Research.Working Paper Number 120. Institute of Development Studies (IDS), University of Sussex, Falmer, Brighton.
26. LIPIETZ A. (1987) Mirages and Miracles: The Crisis of Global Fordism. Verso, London.
27. MAYER F. and PICKLES J. (2009) Governance and Implications for Decent Work in Apparel Global Value Chains.Working Paper commissioned for 'Capturing the Gains' Programme, Institute for International Labor Studies, International Labor Organisation (ILO), Geneva.
28. ORGANISATION FOR ECONOMIC CO-OPERATION AND DEVELOPMENT (OECD) (2004) A New World Map in Textiles and Clothing: Adjusting to Change. OECD Publications, Paris.
29. PELLEGRIN J. (2001) The Political Economy of Competitiveness in an Enlarged Europe. Palgrave, New York, NY.
30. PICKLES J. (2006) Trade liberalization, upgrading and regionalization in the global apparel industry, Environment and Planning A 38, 2201-2006.
31. PICKLES J. and BEGG R. (2000) Ethnicity, state violence, and neo-liberal transitions in post-Communist Bulgaria, Growth and Change 31, 179-210.
32. PICKLES J., SMITH A., BUČEK M., ROUKOVA P. and BEGG B. (2006) Upgrading, changing competitive pressures and diverse practices in the East European apparel industry, Environment and Planning A 38, 2305-2324.
33. RANTISI N. (2004) The designer in the city and the city in the designer, in POWER D. and SCOTT A. (Eds) Cultural Industries and the Production of Culture pp. 91-109. London, Routledge.
34. SCHRANK A. (2004) Ready-to-wear development? Foreign investment, technology transfer, and learning by watching in the apparel trade, Social Forces 83, 123-156.
35. SCOTT A. (2006) The changing global geography of low-technology, labour-intensive industry: clothing, footwear, and furniture, World Development 34, 1517-1536.
36. SELLAR C. (2007) The relationship between the processes of outsourcing of Italian textile and clothing firms and the emergence of industrial districts in Eastern Europe. Unpublished PhD dissertation, Department of Geography, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, NC.
37. SMITH A. (2003) Power relations, industrial clusters and regional transformations: Pan-European integration and outward processing in the Slovak clothing industry, Economic Geography 79, 17-40.
38. SMITH A. and PICKLES J. (2009) From collectivist industry to global economic crisis: regional shifts in the Slovak clothing industry. Paper presented at the 3rd Central European Regional Science Conference, Košice, Slovakia, 2009.
39. SMITH A. and SWAIN A. (2010) The global economic crisis, Eastern Europe, and the former Soviet Union: models of development and the contradictions of internationalization, Eurasian Geography and Economics 51, 1-34.
40. SMITH A., PICKLES J., BEGG B., ROUKOVA P. and BUČ EK M. (2005) Outward processing, EU enlargement and regional relocation in the European textiles and clothing industry: reflections on the European Commission's communication on 'The Future of the Textiles and Clothing Sector in the Enlarged European Union', European Urban and Regional Studies 12, 83-91.
41. SMITH A., PICKLES J., BUČ EK M., BEGG B. and ROUKOVA P. (2008) Reconfiguring 'post-socialist region': trans-border networks and regional competition in the Slovak and Ukrainian clothing industry, Global Networks 8, 281-307.
42. SMITH A., RAINNIE A., DUNFORD M., HARDY J., HUDSON R. and SADLER D. (2002) Networks of value, commodities and regions: reworking divisions of labour in macro-regional economies, Progress in Human Geography 26, 41-63.
43. STURGEON T. J. (2006) The Governance of Global Value Chains: Implications for Industrial Upgrading. Social Science Research Institute, Duke University, Durham, NC (available at: http://www.cggc.duke.edu/pdfs/workshop/SturgeonGVCDuke.pdf).
44. TEWARI M. (2006) Adjustment in India's textile and clothing industry: reworking historical legacies in a post-MFAworld, Environment and Planning A 38, 2325-2344.
45. THE WORLD BANK (2006) Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt and Jordan After the End of the Multi-Fiber Agreement: Impact, Challenges and Prospects. Report Number 35376. The World Bank, Washington, DC.
46. TOKATLI N. (2008) Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry - the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer, Journal of Economic Geography 8, 21-38.
47. TOKATLI N.,WRIGLEY N. and KIZILGü Nö. (2008) Shifting global supply networks and fast fashion: made in Turkey for Marks and Spencer, Global Networks 8, 261-280.
48. WERNER INTERNATIONAL (2006) New Twist (Newsletter) 1(8 March) (available at: http://www.werner-newtwist.com/en/site-vol-001/newtwist.htm).