Jailhouse frocks: Locating the public interest in policing counterfeit luxury fashion goods

British Journal of Criminology

Volumn 50, Issue 6, 2010, Pages 1094-1116

  Wall, David S ^a   Large, Joanna ^b  

^a DURHAM UNIVERSITY   (United Kingdom)

^b NONE

Author keywords

brand consumption; brands; counterfeiting; cultural criminology; intellectual property crime; luxury goods; public interest; resource allocation

Indexed keywords

EID: 77958551281     PISSN: 00070955     EISSN: 14643529     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1093/bjc/azq048     Document Type: Article

References (61)

1. AAIPT (2003), 'Proving the Connection: The Links between Intellectual Property The ft and Organised Crime', Alliance Against Counterfeiting and Piracy, available online at www.allianceagainstiptheft.co.uk/downloads/pdf/ Proving-the-Connection.pdf.
2. Alexander, H. (2010), 'Catwalk Designers Streaming the ir Fashion Shows Live Hits New High: Designers Take Off for Cyberspace as More and More Collections Go "Live"', The Telegraph, 19 February, available online at www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/hilaryalexander/ 7269972/Catwalk-designers- streaming-their-fashion-shows-live-hits-new-high.html.Anti-Counterfeiting Group
3. (2007), 'Submission by the Anti-Counterfeiting Group Relating to Internet Auction Websites', Office of Fair Trading: Internet Shopping Market Study, 5 March, available online at www.a-cg.org/guest/pdf/OFTsubmission05mar07.pdf.
4. - (2010), 'Proceeds of Crime Act 2002: Examples of Counterfeiting Cases', available online at www.a-cg.org/guest/pdf/POCAcasesApril10.pdf.
5. Barnett, J. (2005), 'Shopping for Gucci on Canal Street: Reflections on Status Consumption, Intellectual Property and the Incentive The sis', Virginia Law Review, 91: 1381-423.
6. Baudrillard, J. (1994), Simulacra and Simulation. Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press.
7. Baudrillard, J. (1998), The Consumer Society: Myths and Structures. London: Sage.
8. Bendell, J. and Kleanthous, A. (2007), Deeper Luxury: Quality and Style when the World Matters. Godalming, World Wildlife Federation, available online atwww.wwf.org.uk/filelibrary/pdf/ luxury-report.pdf.
9. Blakeney, M. (2009), 'International Proposals for the Criminal Enforcement of Intellectual Property Rights: International Concern with Counterfeiting and Piracy', Queen Mary School of Law Legal Studies Research Paper No. 29/2009, available online at http://ssrn.com/ abstract=1476964.
10. Bullock, K., Mann, D., Street, R. and Coxon, C. (2009), Examining Attrition in Confiscating the Proceeds of Crime, Home Office Research Report 17, Home Office Research, Development and Statistics Directorate, available online at www.homeoffice.gov.uk/rds/pdfs09/ horr17c.pdf.
11. Carey, M. and Wall, D. S. (2001), 'MP3: More Beats to the Byte', International Review of Law, Computers and Technology, 15: 35-58.
12. Chua, C. C. (2007), 'Home Turf: Pudu Is a Definite "Do"', Malay Mail, 21 November.
13. Curtis Eaton, B. and Eswaran, M. (2009), 'Well-Being and Affluence in the Presence of a Veblen Good', The Economic Journal, 119: 1088-104.
14. David, M. (2010), Peer to Peer and the Music Industry: The Criminalization of Sharing. London: Sage.
15. ECAP II (2007), Regional Handbook on IPR Enforcement for Customs in ASEAN, EC-ASEAN Intellectual Property Rights Co-operation Programme, ECAP II, available online at www. ecap-project.org/fileadmin/ecapII/pdf/en/ipr- enforcement/customs-handbook/2-impact-on-counterfeiting-and-piracy.pdf.
16. Gaines, J. M. (1992), Contested Cultures: The Image, the Voice, and the Law. London: British Film Institute.
17. Gentry, J., Putrevu, S. and Shultz, C. (2006), 'The Effects of Counterfeiting on Consumer Search', Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 5: 245-56.
18. Harbi, S. and Grolleau, G. (2008), 'Profiting from Being Pirated by Pirating the Pirates', Kyklos, 61: 385-90.
19. Hayward, K. and Yar, M. (2006), 'The "Chav" Phenomenon: Consumption, Media and the Construction of a New Underclass', Crime, Media and Culture, 2: 9-28.
20. Henderson, H. D. (1922), Supply and Demand. London and Cambridge: Nisbet and Cambridge University Press.
21. Hetzer, W. (2002), 'Godfathers and Pirates: Counterfeiting and Organised Crime', European Journal of Crime, Criminal Law and Criminal Justice, 10: 303-20.
22. Hilton, B., Choi, C. J. and Chen, S. (2004), 'The Ethics of Counterfeiting in the Fashion Industry: Quality, Credence and Profit Issues', Journal of Business Ethics, 55: 343-54.
23. HIRC (2003), 'Are Proceeds from Counterfeited Goods Funding Terrorism?', House International Relations Committee, Hearing on Intellectual Property Crimes, 16 July, available online at www.foreignaffairs.house.gov/archives/108/ 88392.pdf.
24. HM Treasury (2006), Gowers Review of Intellectual Property. London: HM Treasury, available online at http://www.mileproject.eu/asset-arena/document/TY/ GOWERS-REVIEW-OF-INTELLECTUAL-PROPERTY.PDF.
25. Hopkins, D., Kontnik, L. and Tunage, M. (2003), Counterfeiting Exposed: Protecting Your Brand and Customers. New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons.
26. Howard, L. (2009), 'An Uningenious Paradox: Intellectual Property Protections for Fashion Designs', Columbia Journal of Law & the Arts, 32: 101-31.
27. IACC (2005), 'The Negative Consequences of International Intellectual Property The ft: Economic Harm, Threats to the Public Health and Safety, and Links to Organized Crime and Terrorist Organisations', International Anti Counterfeiting Coalition, January, available online at http://counterfeiting. unicri.it/docs/International%20AntiCounterfeiting%20 Coalition.White%20Paper. pdf.
28. IMDB (2006), 'Memorable Quotes from "The Devil Wears Prada" (2006)', Internet Movie Database, available online at www.imdb.com/title/ tt0458352/quotes.
29. IPCG (2009), 2008-2009 IP Crime Report, IP Crime Group, 25 June, available online at www.ipo.gov.uk/ipcreport08.pdf.
30. IPO (2006), Counter Offensive: An IP Crime Strategy, Intellectual Property Office, available online at www.ipo.gov.uk/ipcrimestrategy.pdf.
31. ITA (1998), The Economic Impact of Trademark Counterfeiting and Infringement: Estimation of the Impact of Trademark Counterfeiting and Infringement on Worldwide Sales of Apparel and Footwear, International Trademark Association, available online at http://www.inta.org/downloads/ tap-economicimpact1998.pdf.
32. Large, J. (2009), 'Consuming Counterfeits: Exploring Assumptions about Fashion Counterfeiting', Papers from the 2009 British Criminology Conference, available online at www.britsoc-crim.org/volume9/1.Large09.pdf.
33. Large, J. and Wall, D. S. (2007a), 'First Report on the Counterfeiting of Fashion Apparel in the UK, Regulation, Literature, Case Studies, Counterfeiting Drivers', COUTURE Project, June (unpublished).
34. - (2007b), 'Second Report on the Counterfeiting of Fashion Apparel in the UK, "What Factors Make a Fashion Product Attractive to Counterfeiting?"', COUTURE Project, July (unpublished).
35. Ledbury Research (2007), Counterfeiting Luxury: Exposing the Myths, 2nd edn. London: Davenport Lyons, available online at www.a-cg.org/guest/pdf/ luxDLapr06.pdf.
36. Leyden, J. (2009), 'UK Police Take Down Fake Designer Goods Sites: Del Boys Swept Out of. co.uk Domains', The Register, 3 December, available online at www.theregister.co.uk/2009/ 12/03/fake-designer-kit-website-takedown/.
37. - (2010), 'UK.gov Invests £4.3m in Cyber-Scam Crackdown Team', The Register, 15 February, available online at www.theregister.co.uk/2010/02/15/uk- cybercrackdown/.
38. Liebenstein, H. (1950), 'Bandwagon, Snob, and Veblen Effects in the The ory of Consumers' Demand', The Quarterly Journal of Economics, 64: 183-207.
39. Mancuso, R. (2007), 'Kuala Lumpur Goes On Sale', news.co.au, available online at www. news.com.au/travel/story/0,23483,22081318-27983,00.html.
40. Marshall, L. (2004), 'The Effects of Piracy Upon the Music Industry: A Case Study of Bootlegging', Media, Culture & Society, 26: 163-81.
41. O'Cass, A. and McEwen, H. (2004), 'Exploring Consumer Status and Conspicuous Consumption', Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 4: 25-39.
42. OECD (1998), The Economic Impact of Counterfeiting, Organisation for Economic CoOperation and Development.
43. - (2008), The Economic Impact of Counterfeiting and Piracy, Organisation for Economic CoOperation and Development.
44. O'Neill, S. (2009), 'Revenue's Cash Rewards and Confiscation Targets "Skewing Justice"', The Times, 5 October, available online at www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/crime/ article6861046.ece.
45. Orchard, R. (2007), 'Counterfeiting: The Burning Issues', in International Chamber of Commerce, The International Anti-Counterfeiting Directory, 6-11, available online at http://counterfeiting.unicri.it/docs/ IACD2007-1.pdf
46. McCartney, S. (2006), The Fake Factor: Why We Love Brands But Buy Fakes. London: Cyan Books.
47. Raustiala, K. and Sprigman, C. (2006), 'The Piracy Paradox: Innovation and Intellectual Property in Fashion Design', Virginia Law Review, 92: 1687-777.
48. Rogers, P. (2007), National Enforcement Priorities for Local Authority Regulatory Services (Rogers Review), March. London: Cabinet Office, available online at http://archive.cabinetoffice. gov.uk/rogersreview/upload/assets/ rogersreview/rogers-review-2007.pdf.
49. Saviano, R. (2008), Gomorrah: Italy's Other Mafia. London: Pan Books.
50. Spence, M. (2007), Intellectual Property. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
51. Tapscott, D. and Williams, A. (2007), Wikinomics: How Mass Collaboration Changes Everything. London: Atlantic Books.
52. Treverton, G., Matthies, C., Cunningham, K., Goulka, J., Ridgeway, G. and Wong, A. (2009), Film Piracy, Organized Crime, and Terrorism, Rand Safety and Justice Program, available online at www.rand.org/pubs/monographs/2009/RAND- MG742.pdf.
53. UKIPO (2007), 'Counter-offensive: An IP Crime Strategy', UKIPO, available online at www.ipo.gov.uk/ipcrimestrategy.pdf.
54. Ungoed-Thomas, J. (2005), 'Designer Fakes "Are Funding Al-Qaeda"', Sunday Times, 20 March, available online at www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article432410.ece.
55. USDOJ (2007), 'Operation Bell Bottoms Targets Counterfeiting, Narcotics Operation inLos Angeles-Area Clothing Stores', U.S. Department of Justice Press Release, 6 November, available online at http://losangeles.fbi.gov/dojpressrel/ pressrel07/la110607busa.htm.
56. Vagg, J. and Harris, J. (1998), 'Bad Goods: Product Counterfeiting and Enforcement Strategies', in M. Gill, ed., Crime at Work Vol. 2: Increasing the Risk for Offenders. Leicester: Perpetuity Press.
57. Veblen, T. (1899/1994), The The ory of the Leisure Class. Mineola, NY: Dover Publications Inc. (Thrift Edition).
58. Wall, D. S. (2003), 'Policing Elvis: Legal Action and the Shaping of Post-Mortem Celebrity Culture as Contested Space', Entertainment Law, 2: 35-69.
59. Whitwell, S. (2006), 'Brand Papers\-Piracy: Faking It Can Be Good', Brand Strategy, 8 May.
60. Yar, M. (2005), 'A Deadly Faith in Fakes: Trademark The ft and the Global Trade in Counterfeit Automotive Components', Internet Journal of Criminology, available online at www.internetjournalofcriminology.com/Yar%20- %20A%20Deadly%20Faith%20in%20-Fakes.pdf.
61. - (forthcoming). Intellectual Property Crime: Towards a Critical Criminology of the Information Society. Aldershot: Ashgate.