Sandy Beach Geomorphology Elucidated by Laboratory Modeling

Elsevier Oceanography Series

Volumn 49, Issue C, 1989, Pages 159-213

  Sunamura, Tsuguo ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF TSUKUBA   (Japan)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 77956810298     PISSN: 04229894     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book Series    
DOI: 10.1016/S0422-9894(08)70126-0     Document Type: Article

References (141)

1. Ann, H., 1979. An experimental study on the formation of rhythmic topography on sandy beaches. Unpub. M. Sc. Thesis, Dept. Civil Eng., Univ. Tokyo (in Japanese).
2. Bagnold, M.R.A., Beach formation by waves; some model experiments in a wave tank. Jour. Inst. Civil Eng. 15 (1940), 27–52.
3. Bascom, W., The relationship between sand size and beach-face slope. American Geopkys. Union Trans. 32 (1951), 866–874.
4. Bascom, W., Characteristics of natural beaches. ASCE, 1954, 163–180 Proc. 4th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
5. Bascom, W., Waves and Beaches., Revised ed., 1980, Anchor, Garden City, New York.
6. Bruun, P., Migrating sand waves and sand humps, with special reference to investigations carried out on the Danish North Sea coast. ASCE, 1954, 269–295 Proc. 5th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
7. Carter, R.W.G., Balsillie, J.H., A note on the amount of wave energy transmitted over nearshore sand bars. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 8 (1983), 213–222.
8. Carter, R.W.G., Kitcher, K.J., The geomorphology of offshore sand bars on the north coast of Ireland. Proc. Royal Irish Acad. 79B (1979), 43–61.
9. Chappell, J., Eliot, I.G., Surf-beach dynamics in time and space. Marine Geol. 32 (1979), 231–250.
10. Crisp, T., Sea and Wind, 1980, Nelson, Nairobi, Kenya.
11. Dalrymple, R.A., Rip currents and their causes. ASCE, 1978, 1414–1427 Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
12. Dalrymple, R.A., Thompson, W.W., Study of equilibrium beach profiles. ASCE, 1976, 1277–1296 Proc. 15th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
13. Davis, R.A. Jr., Beach and nearshore zone. Davis, R.A. Jr., (eds.) Coastal Sedimentary Environments., 1978, Springer-Verlag, New York, 237–285.
14. Davis, R.A. Jr., Fox, W.T., Coastal process and nearshore sand bars. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 42 (1972), 401–412.
15. Davis, R.A. Jr., Fox, W.T., Process-response patterns in beach and nearshore sedimentation: I. Mustang Island, Texas. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 45 (1975), 852–865.
16. Davis, R.A. Jr., Fox, W.T., Hayes, M.O., Boothroyd, J.C., Comparison of ridge and runnel systems in tidal and non-tidal environments. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 42 (1972), 413–421.
17. Dean, R. G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney: 208–214.
18. Dean, R.G., Maumeyer, E.M., Beach cusps at Point Rayes and Drakes Bay Beaches, California. ASCE, 1980, 863–884 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
19. Dolan, R., Coastal landforms: crescentic and rhythmic. Geol. Soc. America Bull 82 (1971), 177–180.
20. Dolan, R., Ferm, J.C., Crescentic landforms along the Atlantic coast of the United States. Science 159 (1968), 627–629.
21. Dolan, R., Vincent, L., Hayden, B., Crescentic coastal landforms. Zeitsch. Geo-morphologie 18 (1974), 1–12.
22. Eliot, I., 1973. The persistence of rip current patterns on sandy beaches. 1st Australian Conf. Coastal Eng., Inst. Eng. Australia: 29–34.
23. Escher, B.G., Experiments on the formation of beach cusps. Leidsche Geol. Mededlin-gen 9 (1937), 79–104.
24. Evans, O.F., The classification and origin of beach cusps. Jour. Geol. 46 (1938), 615–627.
25. Evans, O.F., The low and ball of the east shore of Lake Michigan. Jour. Geol 48 (1940), 476–511.
26. Flemming, N.C., Tank experiments on the sorting of beach material during cusp formation. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol. 34 (1964), 112–122.
27. Galvin, C.J. Jr., Breaker travel and choice of design wave height. Jour. Waterways Harbors Div., ASCE 95 (1969), 175–200.
28. Goldsmith, V., Bowman, D., Kiley, K., Sequential stage development of crescentic bars: Hahoterim Beach, Southeastern Mediterranean. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol. 52 (1982), 233–249.
29. Goldsmith, V., Bowman, D., Kiley, K., Burdich, B., Mart, Y., Sofer, S., Morphology and dynamics of crescentic bar systems. ASCE, 1982, 941–953 Proc. 18th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
30. Gourlay, M. R., 1980. Beaches: profiles, processes and permeability. Research Report, Dept. Civil Eng., Univ. Queensland, No. CE14.
31. Greenwood, B., Davidson-Arnott, R.G.D., Marine bars and nearshore sedimentary processes, Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick. Hails, J., Carr, A., (eds.) Nearshore Sediment Dynamics and Sedimentation., 1975, John Wiley, London, 123–150.
32. Greenwood, B., Davidson-Arnott, R.G.D., Sedimentation and equilibrium in wave-formed bars: a review and case study. Canadian Jour. Earth Sci. 16 (1979), 312–332.
33. Guza, R.T., Bowen, A.J., On the amplitude of beach cusps. Jout. Geophys. Res. 86 (1981), 4125–4132.
34. Guza, R.T., Inman, D.L., Edge waves and beach cusps. JOUT. Geophys. Res. 80 (1975), 2997–3012.
35. Hallermeier, R.J., Oscillatory bedload transport: data review and simple formulation. Continental Shelf Res. 1 (1982), 159–190.
36. Hattori, M., Kawamata, R., Onshore-offshore transport and beach profile change. ASCE, 1980, 1175–1193 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
37. Hayes, M.O., Forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone. Meyer, R.E., (eds.) Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport., 1972, Academic Press, New York, 297–356.
38. Hayes, M.O., Boothroyd, J.C., Storms as modifying agents in the coastal environment. Hayes, M.O., (eds.) Coastal Environments., 1969, NE Massachusetts, Dept. Geol., Univ. Massachusetts, Amherst, 290–315 (cited in Komar, 1976, p. 290).
39. Herbich, J.B., Comparison of model and beach scour patterns. ASCE, 1970, 1281–1300 Proc. 12th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
40. Holman, R.A., Bowen, A.J., Bars, bumps and holes: models for the generation of complex beach topography. Jour. Geophys. Res. 87 (1982), 457–468.
41. Hom-ma, M., Horikawa, K., Sonu, C., Coastal sediment transport and beach profile change. JSCE, 1959, 78–88 Proc. 6th Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
42. Hom-ma, M., Sonu, C., Rhythmic pattern of longshore bars related to sediment characteristics. ASCE, 1962, 248–278 Proc. 8th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
43. Hunt, I.A. Jr., Design of seawalls and breakwaters. Jour. Waterways Harbors Div., ASCE 85 (1959), 123–152.
44. Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., Field observations of edge waves. Nature 243 (1973), 160–162.
45. Huntley, D.A., Bowen, A.J., Beach cusps and edge waves. ASCE, 1978, 1378–1393 Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
46. Inman, D.L., Guza, R.T., The origin of swash cusps on beaches. Marine Geol. 49 (1982), 133–148.
47. Isaacs, J. D., 1947. Beach and surf conditions on beaches of the Oregon and Washington coast between August 27 and September 27, 1945. Fluid Mech. Lab. Memo., Univ. California, HE-116–229, cited in Shepard (1950).
48. Ishii, T., 1983. A simple wave-tank experiment on beach-step, with special reference to up and downward shift of water level. Geogr. Report, Osaka Kyoiku Univ., 22: 21–31 (in Japanese, with English abstract).
49. Iwagaki, Y., Noda, H., Laboratory study of scale effects in two-dimensional beach processes. ASCE, 1962, 194–210 ProC. 8th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
50. Johnson, D.W., Beach cusps. Geol. Soc. America Bull. 21 (1910), 599–624.
51. Johnson, D.W., Fascimile, (eds.) Shore Processes and Shoreline Development., 1919, Hafner, New York.
52. Johnson, J.W., Scale effect in hydraulic models involving wave motion. American Geophys. Union Trans. 30 (1949), 517–525.
53. Kajima, R., Shimizu, T., Maruyama, K., Saito, S., Experiment on beach profile change with a large wave flume. ASCE, 1982, 1385–1404 Proc. 18th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
54. Kaneko, A., Formation of beach cusps in a wave tank. Coastal Eng. 9 (1985), 81–98.
55. Kemp, P.H., The relationship between wave action and beach profile characteristics. ASCE, 1960, 262–277 Proc. 7th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
56. Kemp, P.H., A model study of the behavior of beaches and groynes. Proc. Inst. Civil Eng. 22 (1962), 191–210.
57. Kemp, P. H., 1963. A field study of wave action on natural beaches. Proc. 10th Meeting, Int. Assoc. Hydraulic Res.: 131–138.
58. Kemp, P.H., Plinston, D.T., Beaches produced by waves of low phase difference. Jour. Hydraulic Div., ASCE 94 (1968), 1183–1195.
59. Keulegan, G. H., 1948. An experimental study of submarine sand bars. U. S. Army Beach Erosion Board, Tech. Report, No. 3.
60. King, C.A.M., Beaches and Coasts., 2nd ed., 1972, Edward Arnold, London.
61. Komar, P.D., Nearshore cell circulation and the formation of giant cusps. Geol. Soc. America Bull. 82 (1971), 2643–2650.
62. Komar, P.D., Observations of beach cusps at Mono Lake, California. Geol. Soc. America Bull. 84 (1973), 3593–3600.
63. Komar, P.D., Beach Processes and Sedimentation, 1976, Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey.
64. Komar, P.D., Rhythmic shoreline features and their origins. Gardner, R., Scoging, H., (eds.) Mega-geomorphology., 1983, Oxford Univ. Press, Oxford, 92–112.
65. Komar, P.D., Erosion of Siletz Spit, Oregon. Komar, P.D., (eds.) CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion., 1983, CRC Press, Boca Raton, Florida, 65–76.
66. Komar, P.D., Gaughan, M.K., Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction. ASCE, 1972, 405–418 Proc. I3th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
67. Krumbein, W. C., 1947. Shore processes and beach characteristics. U. S. Army Beach Erosion Board, Tech. Memo., No. 3.
68. Kuenen, P.H., The formation of beach cusps. Jour. Geol 56 (1948), 34–40.
69. Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Parkin, D.W., Sea waves and beach cusps. Geogr. Jour. 128 (1962), 194–201.
70. Maruyama, K., and Shimizu, T., 1986. Verification of improved numerical model for prediction of on-offshore beach change. Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry, Civil Eng. Lab. Report, No. U86014, 44p. (in Japanese with English abstract).
71. Meyers, R. D., 1933. A model of wave action on beaches. Unpub. M. Sc. Thesis, Univ. California (cited in King, 1972, p. 324 and 328).
72. H. Mii Beach cusps on the Pacific coast of Japan Sci. Report, Tohoku Univ. 2nd ser. (Geology) 29 1958 77 107.
73. Miller, R. L., 1976. Role of vortices in surf zone prediction: sedimentation and wave forces. In: R. A. Davis, Jr. and R. L. Ethington (Editors), Beach and Nearshore Sedimentation. Soc. Economic Paleontologists and Mineralogists, Special Pub. No. 24: 92–114.
74. Miller, R.L., Zeigler, J.M., A model relating dynamics and sediment pattern in equilibrium in the region of shoaling waves, breaker zone, and foreshore. Jour. Geol 66 (1958), 417–441.
75. Mizuno, O., 1984. A preliminary experiment on the formation of storm cusps. Unpub. Report, Geomorphology Lab., Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba, 18 pp. (in Japanese).
76. Nayak, I.V., Equilibrium profiles of model beaches. ASCE, 1970, 1321–1340 Proc. 12th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
77. Otto, T., Der Darss und Zingst. Jber. Geog. Ges. Greifswald 13 (1911), 235–485 (cited in Greenwood and Davidson-Arnott, 1975).
78. Otvos, E.G. Jr., Observation of beach cusp and beach ridge formation on Long Island Sound. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 34 (1964), 554–560.
79. Owens, E.H., Temporal variations in beach and nearshore dynamics. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 47 (1977), 168–190.
80. Ozaki, A., Watanabe, H., Scale effect in the experiment of two-dimensional beach profile changes. JSCE, 1976, 200–205 PrOC. 23rd Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
81. Rector, R. L., 1954. Laboratory study of equilibrium profiles of beaches. U. S. Army Beach Erosion Board, Tech. Memo. No. 41.
82. Sallenger, A.H. Jr., Beach-cusp formation. Marine Geol. 29 (1979), 23–37.
83. T. Sasaki Three-dimensional topographic changes on the foreshore zone of sandy beaches Sci. Report, Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba, Sect. A 4 1983 69 95.
84. S. Sato T. Kishi A study on littoral drift (7): wave-induced bottom shear force and sediment movement Res. Report, Public Works Res. Inst 85 1952 139 154 (in Japanese).
85. Sato, M., Kuroki, K., and Shinohara, T., 1981. Field experiments of beach cusp formation. Memoir 36th Annual Conv., Japan Soc. Civil Eng. (II): 841–842 (in Japanese).
86. Savage, R.P., Notes on the formation of beach ridges. U. S. Army Beach Erosion Board Bull. 13 (1959), 31–35.
87. Sawaragi, T., Deguchi, I., On-offshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone. ASCE, 1980, 1194–1214 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
88. Saylor, J.H., Hands, E.B., Properties of longshore bars in the Great Lakes. ASCE, 1970, 839–853 Proc. 12th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
89. Schwartz, M.L., Beach processes. Schwartz, M.L., (eds.) The Encyclopedia of Beaches and Coastal Environments., 1982, Hutchinson Ross, Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, 153–157.
90. Shepard, F. P., 1950. Longshore-bars and longshore-troughs. U. S. Army Beach Erosion Board, Tech. Memo., No. 15.
91. Shepard, F.P., Submarine Geology., 2nd ed., 1963, Harper & Row, New York.
92. Shimizu, T., Saito, S., Maruyama, K., Hasegawa, H., and Kajima, R., 1985. Modeling of onshore-offshore sand transport rate distribution based on the large wave flume experiments. Central Res. Inst. Electric Power Industry, Civil Eng. Lab. Report, No. 384028, (in Japanese, with English abstract).
93. Short, A.D., Wave power and beach-stages: a global model. ASCE, 1978, 1145–1162 Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
94. Short, A.D., Three dimensional beach-stage model. Jour. Geol 87 (1979), 553–571.
95. Sonu, C.J., Collective movement of sediment in littoral environment. ASCE, 1968, 373–400 Proc. 11th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
96. Sonu, C.J., Three-dimensional beach changes. Jour. Geol. 81 (1973), 42–64.
97. Sonu, C.J., McCloy, J.M., McArthur, D.S., Longshore currents and nearshore topographies. ASCE, 1966, 525–549 Proc. 10th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
98. Strahler, A.N., Tidal cycle of changes on an equilibrium beach. Jour. Geol. 74 (1966), 247–268.
99. Sunamura, T., A study of beach ridge formation in laboratory. Geographical Rev. Japan 48 (1975), 761–767.
100. Sunamura, T., A laboratory study of offshore transport of sediment and a model for eroding beaches. ASCE, 1980, 1051–1070 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
101. T. Sunamura Parameters for delimiting erosion and accretion of natural beaches Annual Report, Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba 6 1980 51 54.
102. Sunamura, T., Laboratory study of on-offshore sediment transport rate in shallow water region. JSCE, 1982, 239–243 Proc. 29th Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
103. T. Sunamura Determination of breaker height and depth in the field Annual Report, Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba 8 1982 53 54.
104. Sunamura, T., A predictive model for shoreline changes on natural beaches caused by storm and post-storm waves. Trans. Japan. Geomorphological Union 4 (1983), 1–10.
105. Sunamura, T., Prediction of on-offshore sediment transport rate in the surf zone including swash zone. JSCE, 1984, 316–320 Proc. 3lst Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
106. Sunamura, T., Quantitative predictions of beach-face slopes. Geol. Soc. America Bull. 95 (1984), 242–245.
107. Sunamura, T., Beach morphologies. Horikawa, K., (eds.) Coastal Environment Engineering., 1985, Univ. Tokyo Press, Tokyo, 130–146 (in Japanese).
108. Sunamura, T., Predictive relationships for position and size of longshore bars. JSCE, 1985, 331–335 Proc. 32nd Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
109. Sunamura, T., Horikawa, K., Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves. ASCE, 1974, 920–938 Proc. 14th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
110. Sunamura, T., Kurata, Y., A two-dimensional test on beach changes due to waves with varying characteristics. JSCE, 1981, 222–226 Proc. 28th Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
111. Sunamura, T., Mizuguchi, M., and Ann, H., 1977. An experiment on rhythmic pattern of sandy beaches using a small three-dimensional wave tank. In: K. Horikawa (Editor), Dynamical Study on Nearshore Problems in Relation to Wave Breaking. Unpub. Report for Sci. Res. Fund of Ministry of Education: 10–14 (in Japanese).
112. T. Sunamura, I. Takeda, 1984, Landward migration of inner bars, In: B. Greenwood and R. A. Davis, Jr. (Editors), Hydrodynamics and sedimentation in wave-dominated coastal environments, Marine Geol, 60, 63–78.
113. Suzuki, K., Beach cusps on the Ukui Coast, Wakayama Prefecture. Jour. Geol. Soc. Japan 40 (1933), 813–814 (in Japanese).
114. I. Takeda Beach changes by waves Sci. Report, Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba, Sect. A 5 1984 29 63.
115. Takeda, I., Sunamura, T., Formation and height of berms. Trans. Japan. Geo-morphological Union 3 (1982), 145–157 (in Japanese, with English abstract).
116. Takeda, I., Sunamura, T., A wave-flume experiment of beach steps. Annual Report. Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba 9 (1983), 45–48.
117. Takeda, I., Sunamura, T., Accretionary beach changes. JSCE, 1983, 254–258 Proc. 30th Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
118. Takeda, I., Sunamura, T., Formation and spacing of beach cusps. Coastal Eng. Japan 26 (1983), 121–135.
119. Takeda, I., Sunamura, T., Mega cusps: shoreline configuration on accreting beaches. JSCE, 1984, 335–339 Proc. 31st Japan. Conf. Coastal Eng., (in Japanese).
120. Tamai, S., Studies on the characteristics of cuspate shore forms and the prediction of beach changes, 1980, Kyoto Univ. Doctoral Thesis, (in Japanese).
121. Tamai, S., Study on the mechanism of beach cusp formation. Coastal Eng. Japan 24 (1981), 195–213.
122. Terasaki, T., 1985. Wave tank experiments of beach cusp formation. Unpub. Report, Geo-morphology Lab., Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba (in Japanese).
123. Timmermans, P.D., Proeven over do invloed van golven op een strand. Leidsche Geol. Mededlingen 6 (1935), 231–386 (in Dutch, with English abstract).
124. Ursell, F., Edge waves on a sloping beach. Proc. Royal Soc. London, Ser. A. 214 (1952), 79–97.
125. Ursell, F., The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves. Proc. Cambridge Philosophical Soc 49 (1953), 685–694.
126. van Beek, J. L., 1974. Rhythmic patterns of beach topography. Coastal Studies Inst., Louisiana State Univ., Tech. Report, No. 157.
127. van Hijum, E., Equilibrium profiles of coarse material tmder wave attack. ASCE, 1974, 939–957 Proc. 14th Int. Con]. Coastal Eng.
128. Waddell, E., 1973. Dynamics of swash and its implications to beach response. Coastal Studies Inst, Louisiana State Univ., Tech. Report, No. 139.
129. Watanabe, A., Riho, Y., Horikawa, K., Beach profiles and on- offshore sediment transport. ASCE, 1980, 1106–1121 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
130. Weishar, L.L., Byrne, R.J., Field study of breaking wave characteristics. ASCE, 1978, 487–506 Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
131. Williams, A.T., The problem of beach cusp development. Jour. Sedimentary Petrol 43 (1973), 857–866.
132. Wright, L.D., Beach cut in relation to surf zone morphodynamics. ASCE, 1980, 978–996 Proc. 17th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
133. Wright, L.D., Chappell, J., Thorn, B.G., Bradshaw, M.P., Cowell, P., Morphodynamics of reflective and dissipative beach and inshore systems: southeastern Australia. Marine Geol 32 (1979), 105–140.
134. Wright, L.D., Guza, R.T., Short, A.D., Dynamics of a high-energy dissipative surf zone. Marine Geol. 45 (1982), 41–62.
135. Wright, L.D., Short, A.D., Morphodynamics of beaches and surf zones in Australia. Komar, P.D., (eds.) CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion., 1983, CRC Press, Boca Raton, Florida, 35–64.
136. Wright, L.D., Short, A.D., Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geol 56 (1984), 93–118.
137. Wright, L.D., Short, A.D., Green, M.O., Short-term changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: an empirical predictive model. Marine Geol 62 (1985), 339–364.
138. Wright, L.D., Thorn, B.G., Chappell, J., Morphodynamic variability of high-energy beaches. ASCE, 1978, 1180–1194 Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.
139. H. Yamanouchi Beach cusps on some beaches in Japan Sci. Report, Faculty Education, Gunma Univ. 27 1978 115 131.
140. Yokotsuka, Y., 1985. A wave-tank study on topographical change of sandy beaches. Unpub. B. Sc. Thesis, Inst. Geosci., Univ. Tsukuba (in Japanese, with English abstract).
141. Zenkovich, V.P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. Oliver & Boyd, Edinburgh.