메뉴 건너뛰기




Volumn 52, Issue 1, 2010, Pages 5-52

Surface waves in deep and shallow waters

Author keywords

Aerosol fluxes; Energy dissipation; Non linear interactions; Surface waves

Indexed keywords

AIR-SEA INTERACTION; ATMOSPHERE-OCEAN COUPLING; DEEP WATER; ENERGY DISSIPATION; EXPERIMENTAL STUDY; FORECASTING METHOD; NONLINEARITY; SHALLOW WATER; SURFACE WAVE; WAVE MODELING; WIND FORCING;

EID: 77952338363     PISSN: 00783234     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.5697/oc.52-1.005     Document Type: Article
Times cited : (13)

References (114)
  • 2
    • 0032673551 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A consistent coupled-mode theory for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions
    • Athanassoulis G.A., Belibassakis K.A., 1999, A consistent coupled-mode theory for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions, J. Fluid Mech., 389, 275-301.
    • (1999) J. Fluid Mech , vol.389 , pp. 275-301
    • Athanassoulis, G.A.1    Belibassakis, K.A.2
  • 3
    • 0028668516 scopus 로고
    • Numerical calculations of large transient water waves
    • Baldock T.E., Swan C., 1994, Numerical calculations of large transient water waves, Appl. Ocean Res., 16(2), 101-112.
    • (1994) Appl. Ocean Res , vol.16 , Issue.2 , pp. 101-112
    • Baldock, T.E.1    Swan, C.2
  • 4
    • 0029961450 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A laboratory study of non-linear surface waves on water
    • Baldock T.E., Swan C., Taylor P.H., 1996, A laboratory study of non-linear surface waves on water, Philos. T. Roy. Soc. A, 354(1707), 1-28.
    • (1996) Philos. T. Roy. Soc. A , vol.354 , Issue.1707 , pp. 1-28
    • Baldock, T.E.1    Swan, C.2    Taylor, P.H.3
  • 5
    • 0034471363 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Breaking probability for dominant waves on the sea surface
    • Banner M.L., Babanin A.V., Young I.R., 2000, Breaking probability for dominant waves on the sea surface, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 30(12), 3145-3160.
    • (2000) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.30 , Issue.12 , pp. 3145-3160
    • Banner, M.L.1    Babanin, A.V.2    Young, I.R.3
  • 6
    • 0036753138 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On determining the onset and strength of breaking for deep water waves. Part II: Influence of wind forcing and surface shear
    • Banner M.L., Song J.B., 2002, On determining the onset and strength of breaking for deep water waves. Part II: Influence of wind forcing and surface shear, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32(9), 2559-2570.
    • (2002) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.32 , Issue.9 , pp. 2559-2570
    • Banner, M.L.1    Song, J.B.2
  • 7
    • 85166880295 scopus 로고
    • Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves
    • Battjes J.A., Jansen J.P.F.M., 1978, Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves, Proc. 16th Coastal Eng. Conf., 1, 563-587.
    • (1978) Proc. 16th Coastal Eng. Conf , vol.1 , pp. 563-587
    • Battjes, J.A.1    Jansen, J.P.F.M.2
  • 8
    • 0037194294 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Extension of second-order Stokes theory to variable bathymetry
    • Belibassakis K.A., Athanassoulis G.A., 2002, Extension of second-order Stokes theory to variable bathymetry, J. Fluid Mech., 464, 35-80.
    • (2002) J. Fluid Mech , vol.464 , pp. 35-80
    • Belibassakis, K.A.1    Athanassoulis, G.A.2
  • 9
    • 33751316954 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A coupled-mode technique for the run-up of non-breaking dispersive waves on plane beaches
    • OMAE 2006-92162
    • Belibassakis K.A., Athanassoulis G.A., 2006, A coupled-mode technique for the run-up of non-breaking dispersive waves on plane beaches, Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng., OMAE 2006-92162, 1-8.
    • (2006) Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Offshore Mech. Arctic Eng , pp. 1-8
    • Belibassakis, K.A.1    Athanassoulis, G.A.2
  • 10
    • 0035738693 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A coupled-mode model for the refraction-diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry
    • Belibassakis K.A., Athanassoulis G.A., Gerostathis T.P., 2001, A coupled-mode model for the refraction-diffraction of linear waves over steep three-dimensional bathymetry, Appl. Ocean Res., 23(6), 319-336.
    • (2001) Appl. Ocean Res , vol.23 , Issue.6 , pp. 319-336
    • Belibassakis, K.A.1    Athanassoulis, G.A.2    Gerostathis, T.P.3
  • 11
    • 0002883263 scopus 로고
    • Instability of periodic wavetrains in nonlinear dispersive systems
    • Benjamin T.B., 1967, Instability of periodic wavetrains in nonlinear dispersive systems, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 299(1456), 59-76.
    • (1967) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.299 , Issue.1456 , pp. 59-76
    • Benjamin, T.B.1
  • 12
    • 84974336691 scopus 로고
    • The disintegration of wave trains in deep water. Part 1. Theory
    • Benjamin T.B., Feir J.E., 1967, The disintegration of wave trains in deep water. Part 1. Theory, J. Fluid Mech., 27(3), 417-430.
    • (1967) J. Fluid Mech , vol.27 , Issue.3 , pp. 417-430
    • Benjamin, T.B.1    Feir, J.E.2
  • 13
    • 0015280822 scopus 로고
    • Computation of combined refraction-diffraction
    • Berkhoff J.C.W., 1972, Computation of combined refraction-diffraction, Proc. 13th Coastal Eng. Conf., 1, 471-490.
    • (1972) Proc. 13th Coastal Eng. Conf , vol.1 , pp. 471-490
    • Berkhoff, J.C.W.1
  • 15
    • 77950164177 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Some geometric and kinematic properties of breaking waves
    • M. Olagnon & G.A. Athanassoulis (eds.), Edn. Ifremer, Brest
    • Bonmarin P., Kjeldsen P., 2000, Some geometric and kinematic properties of breaking waves, [in:] Rogue waves 2000, M. Olagnon & G.A. Athanassoulis (eds.), Edn. Ifremer, Brest, 169-180.
    • (2000) Rogue Waves 2000 , pp. 169-180
    • Bonmarin, P.1    Kjeldsen, P.2
  • 16
    • 0020800507 scopus 로고
    • A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation
    • Booij N., 1983, A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation, Coast. Eng., 7 (3),191-203.
    • (1983) Coast. Eng , vol.7 , Issue.3 , pp. 191-203
    • Booij, N.1
  • 17
    • 0002937062 scopus 로고
    • Wave trains in inhomogeneous moving media
    • Bretherton F.P., Garrett C.J.R., 1969, Wave trains in inhomogeneous moving media, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 302(1471), 529-554.
    • (1969) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.302 , Issue.1471 , pp. 529-554
    • Bretherton, F.P.1    Garrett, C.J.R.2
  • 18
    • 84958444933 scopus 로고
    • Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
    • Carrier G.F., Greenspan H.P., 1958, Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach, J. Fluid Mech., 4 (1), 97-109.
    • (1958) J. Fluid Mech , vol.4 , Issue.1 , pp. 97-109
    • Carrier, G.F.1    Greenspan, H.P.2
  • 19
    • 0035950844 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A fast method for fully non-linear water-wave computations
    • Clamond D., Grue J., 2001a, A fast method for fully non-linear water-wave computations, J. Fluid Mech., 447, 337-355.
    • (2001) J. Fluid Mech , vol.447 , pp. 337-355
    • Clamond, D.1    Grue, J.2
  • 21
    • 0000725969 scopus 로고
    • Prediction of shallow-water spectra
    • Collins J.I., 1972, Prediction of shallow-water spectra, J. Geophys. Res., 77(15), 2693-2707.
    • (1972) J. Geophys. Res , vol.77 , Issue.15 , pp. 2693-2707
    • Collins, J.I.1
  • 22
    • 0022169153 scopus 로고
    • Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile
    • Dally W.R., Dean R.G., Dalrymple R.A., 1985, Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C6), 11917-11927.
    • (1985) J. Geophys. Res , vol.90 , Issue.C6 , pp. 11917-11927
    • Dally, W.R.1    Dean, R.G.2    Dalrymple, R.A.3
  • 25
    • 0003334708 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists
    • World Sci. Publ., Singapore
    • Dean R.G., Dalrymple R.A., 1998, Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists, Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng., Vol. 2, World Sci. Publ., Singapore, 353 pp.
    • (1998) Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng , vol.2 , pp. 353
    • Dean, R.G.1    Dalrymple, R.A.2
  • 26
    • 27144455072 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Pore water pressure response due to tides and waves based on prototype measurements
    • de Rouck J., Troch P., 2002, Pore water pressure response due to tides and waves based on prototype measurements, PIANC Bull., 110, 9-31.
    • (2002) PIANC Bull , vol.110 , pp. 9-31
    • de Rouck, J.1    Troch, P.2
  • 27
  • 29
    • 0019875480 scopus 로고
    • An investigation of breaking waves produced by a towed hydrofoil
    • Duncan J.H., 1981, An investigation of breaking waves produced by a towed hydrofoil, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 377(1770), 331-348.
    • (1981) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat. , vol.377 , Issue.1770 , pp. 331-348
    • Duncan, J.H.1
  • 30
    • 0020632952 scopus 로고
    • The breaking and non-breaking wave resistance of a two- dimensional hydrofoil
    • Duncan J.H., 1983, The breaking and non-breaking wave resistance of a two- dimensional hydrofoil, J. Fluid Mech., 126, 507-520.
    • (1983) J. Fluid Mech , vol.126 , pp. 507-520
    • Duncan, J.H.1
  • 31
    • 0000492467 scopus 로고
    • Note on a modification to the non-linear Schrödinger equation for application to deep water waves
    • Dysthe K.B., 1979, Note on a modification to the non-linear Schrödinger equation for application to deep water waves, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 369(1736), 105-114.
    • (1979) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.369 , Issue.1736 , pp. 105-114
    • Dysthe, K.B.1
  • 33
    • 0018518836 scopus 로고
    • A high-order cnoidal wave theory
    • Fenton J.D., 1979, A high-order cnoidal wave theory, J. Fluid Mech., 94(1), 129-161.
    • (1979) J. Fluid Mech , vol.94 , Issue.1 , pp. 129-161
    • Fenton, J.D.1
  • 34
    • 0022025241 scopus 로고
    • A fifth order Stokes' theory for steady waves
    • Fenton J.D., 1985, A fifth order Stokes' theory for steady waves, J. Waterw. Port C. Div., 111(2), 216-234.
    • (1985) J. Waterw. Port C. Div , vol.111 , Issue.2 , pp. 216-234
    • Fenton, J.D.1
  • 35
    • 0023208303 scopus 로고
    • Polynomial approximation and water waves
    • Fenton J.D., 1986, Polynomial approximation and water waves, Proc. 20th Coastal Eng. Conf., 1, 193-207.
    • (1986) Proc. 20th Coastal Eng. Conf , vol.1 , pp. 193-207
    • Fenton, J.D.1
  • 37
    • 3242670859 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Kinematics of extreme waves in deep water
    • Grue J., Clamond D., Huseby M., Jensen A., 2003, Kinematics of extreme waves in deep water, Appl. Ocean Res., 25(6), 355-366.
    • (2003) Appl. Ocean Res , vol.25 , Issue.6 , pp. 355-366
    • Grue, J.1    Clamond, D.2    Huseby, M.3    Jensen, A.4
  • 38
    • 33747138253 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental velocities and accelerations in very steep wave events in deep water
    • Grue J., Jensen A., 2006, Experimental velocities and accelerations in very steep wave events in deep water, Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluid., 25(5), 554-564.
    • (2006) Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluid , vol.25 , Issue.5 , pp. 554-564
    • Grue, J.1    Jensen, A.2
  • 39
    • 0027334221 scopus 로고
    • Measured and predicted deep water wave kinematics in regular and irregular seas
    • Gudmestad O.T., 1993, Measured and predicted deep water wave kinematics in regular and irregular seas, Mar. Struct., 6(1), 1-73.
    • (1993) Mar. Struct , vol.6 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-73
    • Gudmestad, O.T.1
  • 40
    • 0033382931 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wind sea growth and dissipation in the open ocean
    • Hanson J.L., Phillips O.M., 1999, Wind sea growth and dissipation in the open ocean, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 29(8), 1633-1648.
    • (1999) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.29 , Issue.8 , pp. 1633-1648
    • Hanson, J.L.1    Phillips, O.M.2
  • 41
    • 34250412014 scopus 로고
    • On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping
    • Hasselmann K., 1974, On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping, Bound.-Lay. Meteorol., 6(1-2), 107-127.
    • (1974) Bound.-Lay. Meteorol , vol.6 , Issue.1-2 , pp. 107-127
    • Hasselmann, K.1
  • 42
    • 0021842777 scopus 로고
    • Computations and parameterizations of the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum. Part II: Parameterizations of the non-linear energy transfer for application in wave models
    • Hasselmann S., Hasselmann K., Allender J.H., Barnett T.P., 1985, Computations and parameterizations of the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum. Part II: Parameterizations of the non-linear energy transfer for application in wave models, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 15(11), 1378-1391.
    • (1985) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.15 , Issue.11 , pp. 1378-1391
    • Hasselmann, S.1    Hasselmann, K.2    Allender, J.H.3    Barnett, T.P.4
  • 45
    • 33846680986 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On local and convective acceleration in steep wave events
    • Jensen A., Clamond D., Huseby M., Grue J., 2007, On local and convective acceleration in steep wave events, Ocean Eng., 34(3-4), 426-435.
    • (2007) Ocean Eng , vol.34 , Issue.3-4 , pp. 426-435
    • Jensen, A.1    Clamond, D.2    Huseby, M.3    Grue, J.4
  • 46
    • 3042781172 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon
    • Kharif C., Pelinovsky E., 2003, Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon, Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluids, 22(6), 603-634.
    • (2003) Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluids , vol.22 , Issue.6 , pp. 603-634
    • Kharif, C.1    Pelinovsky, E.2
  • 47
    • 0020515692 scopus 로고
    • On the theory of the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated gravity waves
    • Kitaigorodskii S.A., 1983, On the theory of the equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated gravity waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 13(5), 816-827.
    • (1983) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.13 , Issue.5 , pp. 816-827
    • Kitaigorodskii, S.A.1
  • 49
    • 0021181783 scopus 로고
    • On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum
    • Komen G.J., Hasselmann S., Hasselmann K., 1984, On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 14(8), 1271-1285.
    • (1984) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.14 , Issue.8 , pp. 1271-1285
    • Komen, G.J.1    Hasselmann, S.2    Hasselmann, K.3
  • 50
    • 33645130159 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Numerical modeling of the global tsunami: Indonesian tsunami of 26 December 2004
    • Kowalik Z., Knight W., Logan T., Whitmore P., 2005, Numerical modeling of the global tsunami: Indonesian tsunami of 26 December 2004, Sci. Tsunami Haz., 23 (1),40-56.
    • (2005) Sci. Tsunami Haz , vol.23 , Issue.1 , pp. 40-56
    • Kowalik, Z.1    Knight, W.2    Logan, T.3    Whitmore, P.4
  • 51
    • 0028485350 scopus 로고
    • On reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly non-linear surface waves
    • Krasitskii V. P., 1994, On reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly non-linear surface waves, J. Fluid Mech., 272, 1-20.
    • (1994) J. Fluid Mech , vol.272 , pp. 1-20
    • Krasitskii, V.P.1
  • 52
    • 77952371551 scopus 로고
    • Krylov J.M. (ed.), Gidrometeoizdat, Leningrad, in Russian
    • Krylov J.M. (ed.), 1986, Wind, waves and marine ports, Gidrometeoizdat, Leningrad, 264 pp., (in Russian).
    • (1986) Wind, Waves and Marine Ports , pp. 264
  • 55
    • 0017551345 scopus 로고
    • Nonlinear deep-water waves: Theory and experiment. Part 2. Evolution of a continuous wave train
    • Lake B.M., Yuen H.C., Rungaldier H., Ferguson W. E., 1977, Nonlinear deep-water waves: Theory and experiment. Part 2. Evolution of a continuous wave train, J. Fluid Mech., 83(1), 49-74.
    • (1977) J. Fluid Mech , vol.83 , Issue.1 , pp. 49-74
    • Lake, B.M.1    Yuen, H.C.2    Rungaldier, H.3    Ferguson, W.E.4
  • 56
    • 0004168443 scopus 로고
    • Dover Publ., Inc., New York
    • Lamb H., 1932, Hydrodynamics, Dover Publ., Inc., New York, 738 pp.
    • (1932) Hydrodynamics , pp. 738
    • Lamb, H.1
  • 59
    • 38549168166 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Sea salt aerosol production. Mechanisms, methods, measurements, and models
    • American Geophys. Union, Washington
    • Lewis E.R., Schwartz S.E., 2004, Sea salt aerosol production. Mechanisms, methods, measurements, and models, Geophys. Monogr., Vol. 152, American Geophys. Union, Washington, 412 pp.
    • (2004) Geophys. Monogr , vol.152 , pp. 412
    • Lewis, E.R.1    Schwartz, S.E.2
  • 60
    • 0026242165 scopus 로고
    • Ocean waves over shoals
    • Lie V., Tørum A., 1991, Ocean waves over shoals, Coast. Eng., 15(5-6), 545-562.
    • (1991) Coast. Eng , vol.15 , Issue.5-6 , pp. 545-562
    • Lie, V.1    Tørum, A.2
  • 61
    • 0021786962 scopus 로고
    • A numerical study of water-wave modulation based on a high-order non-linear Schrödinger equation
    • Lo F., Mei C.C., 1985, A numerical study of water-wave modulation based on a high-order non-linear Schrödinger equation, J. Fluid Mech., 150, 395-416.
    • (1985) J. Fluid Mech , vol.150 , pp. 395-416
    • Lo, F.1    Mei, C.C.2
  • 62
    • 0014631283 scopus 로고
    • On wave breaking and the equilibrium spectrum of wind-generated waves
    • Longuet-Higgins M.S., 1969, On wave breaking and the equilibrium spectrum of wind-generated waves, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 310(1501), 151-159.
    • (1969) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.310 , Issue.1501 , pp. 151-159
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 63
    • 0017862380 scopus 로고
    • The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water. II. Subharmonics
    • Longuet-Higgins M.S., 1978, The instabilities of gravity waves of finite amplitude in deep water. II. Subharmonics, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 360(1703), 489-505.
    • (1978) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.360 , Issue.1703 , pp. 489-505
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 64
    • 0000293479 scopus 로고
    • Acceleration in steep gravity waves
    • Longuet-Higgins M.S., 1985, Acceleration in steep gravity waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 15(11), 1570-1579.
    • (1985) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.15 , Issue.11 , pp. 1570-1579
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1
  • 65
    • 0002523682 scopus 로고
    • The deformation of steep surface waves on water. I. A numerical method of computation
    • Longuet-Higgins M.S., Cokelet E.D., 1976, The deformation of steep surface waves on water. I. A numerical method of computation, P. Roy. Soc. Lond. A Mat., 350 (1660),1-26.
    • (1976) P. Roy. Soc. Lond. a Mat , vol.350 , Issue.1660 , pp. 1-26
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Cokelet, E.D.2
  • 66
    • 50549200900 scopus 로고
    • Radiation stress in water waves: A physical discussion with applications
    • Longuet-Higgins M.S., Stewart R.W., 1964, Radiation stress in water waves: A physical discussion with applications, Deep-Sea Res., 11(4), 529-562.
    • (1964) Deep-Sea Res , vol.11 , Issue.4 , pp. 529-562
    • Longuet-Higgins, M.S.1    Stewart, R.W.2
  • 67
    • 84974513241 scopus 로고
    • A variational principle for a fluid with a free surface
    • Luke J.C., 1967, A variational principle for a fluid with a free surface, J. Fluid Mech., 27(2), 395-397.
    • (1967) J. Fluid Mech , vol.27 , Issue.2 , pp. 395-397
    • Luke, J.C.1
  • 69
    • 0027333941 scopus 로고
    • Extended refraction-diffraction equations for surface waves
    • Massel S.R., 1993, Extended refraction-diffraction equations for surface waves, Coastal Eng., 19(1-2), 97-126.
    • (1993) Coastal Eng , vol.19 , Issue.1-2 , pp. 97-126
    • Massel, S.R.1
  • 71
    • 0034776031 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Circulation of groundwater due to wave set-up on a permeable beach
    • Massel S.R., 2001, Circulation of groundwater due to wave set-up on a permeable beach, Oceanologia, 43(3), 279-290.
    • (2001) Oceanologia , vol.43 , Issue.3 , pp. 279-290
    • Massel, S.R.1
  • 73
    • 0034028655 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs
    • Massel S.R., Gourlay M.R., 2000, On the modelling of wave breaking and set-up on coral reefs, Coast. Eng., 39(1), 1-27.
    • (2000) Coast. Eng , vol.39 , Issue.1 , pp. 1-27
    • Massel, S.R.1    Gourlay, M.R.2
  • 74
    • 0035050494 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches
    • Massel S.R., Pelinovsky E.N., 2001, Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches, Oceanologia, 43(1), 61-97.
    • (2001) Oceanologia , vol.43 , Issue.1 , pp. 61-97
    • Massel, S.R.1    Pelinovsky, E.N.2
  • 75
    • 31244436351 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water
    • Massel S.R., Przyborska A., Przyborski M., 2004, Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 1, Oceanologia, 46(3), 383-404.
    • (2004) Part 1, Oceanologia , vol.46 , Issue.3 , pp. 383-404
    • Massel, S.R.1    Przyborska, A.2    Przyborski, M.3
  • 76
    • 27144451195 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 2
    • Massel S.R., Przyborska A., Przyborski M., 2005, Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 2. Theory, Oceanologia, 47(3), 291-323.
    • (2005) Theory, Oceanologia , vol.47 , Issue.3 , pp. 291-323
    • Massel, S.R.1    Przyborska, A.2    Przyborski, M.3
  • 78
    • 33748323618 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Theory and applications of ocean surface waves. Part 1: Linear aspects, Part 2: Nonlinear aspects
    • World Sci. Publ., Singapore, Vol. 1-1071 pp., Vol. 2-569
    • Mei C.C., Stiassnie M., Yue D. K.-P., 2006, Theory and applications of ocean surface waves. Part 1: Linear aspects, Part 2: Nonlinear aspects, Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng., Vol. 23, World Sci. Publ., Singapore, Vol. 1-1071 pp., Vol. 2-569 pp.
    • (2006) Adv. Ser. Ocean Eng , vol.23
    • Mei, C.C.1    Stiassnie, M.2    Yue D., K.-P.3
  • 79
    • 84958439298 scopus 로고
    • On the generation of surface waves by shear flows
    • Miles J.W., 1957, On the generation of surface waves by shear flows, J. Fluid Mech., 3(2), 185-204.
    • (1957) J. Fluid Mech , vol.3 , Issue.2 , pp. 185-204
    • Miles, J.W.1
  • 80
    • 0000427210 scopus 로고
    • Oceanic whitecaps
    • Monahan E.C., 1971, Oceanic whitecaps, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 1(2), 139-144.
    • (1971) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.1 , Issue.2 , pp. 139-144
    • Monahan, E.C.1
  • 81
    • 0018967988 scopus 로고
    • Optimal power-law description of oceanic whitecap coverage dependence on wind speed
    • Monahan E.C., O'Muircheartaigh I., 1981, Optimal power-law description of oceanic whitecap coverage dependence on wind speed, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 10 (12),2094-2099.
    • (1981) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.10 , Issue.12 , pp. 2094-2099
    • Monahan, E.C.1    O'Muircheartaigh, I.2
  • 82
    • 0016445383 scopus 로고
    • Wave induced pressure in permeable sea beds
    • Moshagen H., Tørum A., 1975, Wave induced pressure in permeable sea beds, J. Waterway. Div. - ASCE, 101(1), 49-57.
    • (1975) J. Waterway. Div. - ASCE , vol.101 , Issue.1 , pp. 49-57
    • Moshagen, H.1    Tørum, A.2
  • 84
    • 0013729674 scopus 로고
    • Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water
    • Ochi M.K., Tsai C.-H., 1983, Prediction of occurrence of breaking waves in deep water, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 13(11), 2008-2019.
    • (1983) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.13 , Issue.11 , pp. 2008-2019
    • Ochi, M.K.1    Tsai, C.-H.2
  • 86
    • 33747334369 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Extreme waves, modulational instability and second order theory: Wave flume experiments on irregular waves
    • Onorato M., Osborne A.R., Serio M., Cavaleri L., Braudini C., Stansberg C.T., 2006, Extreme waves, modulational instability and second order theory: Wave flume experiments on irregular waves, Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluids, 25(5), 586-601.
    • (2006) Eur. J. Mech. B-Fluids , vol.25 , Issue.5 , pp. 586-601
    • Onorato, M.1    Osborne, A.R.2    Serio, M.3    Cavaleri, L.4    Braudini, C.5    Stansberg, C.T.6
  • 87
    • 0141736113 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Occurrence of freak waves from envelope equations in random ocean wave simulations
    • M. Olagnon & G.A. Athanassoulis (eds.), Edn. Ifremer, Brest
    • Onorato M., Osborne A.R., Serio M., Damiani T., 2000, Occurrence of freak waves from envelope equations in random ocean wave simulations, [in:] Rogue waves 2000, M. Olagnon & G.A. Athanassoulis (eds.), Edn. Ifremer, Brest, 181-192.
    • (2000) Rogue Waves 2000 , pp. 181-192
    • Onorato, M.1    Osborne, A.R.2    Serio, M.3    Damiani, T.4
  • 88
    • 0004187836 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Tsunami waves hydrodynamics
    • Nizhny Novgorod, in Russian
    • Pelinovsky E.N., 1996, Tsunami waves hydrodynamics, Inst. Appl. Phys., Nizhny Novgorod, 274 pp., (in Russian).
    • (1996) Inst. Appl. Phys , pp. 274
    • Pelinovsky, E.N.1
  • 89
    • 84958429492 scopus 로고
    • On the generation of waves by turbulent wind
    • Phillips O.M., 1957, On the generation of waves by turbulent wind, J. Fluid Mech., 2 (5),417-445.
    • (1957) J. Fluid Mech , vol.2 , Issue.5 , pp. 417-445
    • Phillips, O.M.1
  • 91
    • 0021830430 scopus 로고
    • Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves
    • Phillips O.M., 1985, Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech., 156, 505-531.
    • (1985) J. Fluid Mech , vol.156 , pp. 505-531
    • Phillips, O.M.1
  • 92
    • 0000711956 scopus 로고
    • Laboratory measurements of deep-water breaking waves
    • Rapp R.J., Melville W. K., 1990, Laboratory measurements of deep-water breaking waves, Philos. T. Roy. Soc. A, 331(1622), 735-800.
    • (1990) Philos. T. Roy. Soc. A , vol.331 , Issue.1622 , pp. 735-800
    • Rapp, R.J.1    Melville, W.K.2
  • 94
    • 0035976060 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Extreme two-dimensional water waves: An assessment of potential design solutions
    • Smith S.F., Swan C., 2002, Extreme two-dimensional water waves: An assessment of potential design solutions, Ocean Eng., 29(4), 387-416.
    • (2002) Ocean Eng , vol.29 , Issue.4 , pp. 387-416
    • Smith, S.F.1    Swan, C.2
  • 95
    • 0001446309 scopus 로고
    • On the formation of whitecaps by a threshold mechanism. Part III: Field experiment and comparison with theory
    • Snyder R.L., Smith L., Kennedy R.M., 1983, On the formation of whitecaps by a threshold mechanism. Part III: Field experiment and comparison with theory, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 13(8), 1505-1518.
    • (1983) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.13 , Issue.8 , pp. 1505-1518
    • Snyder, R.L.1    Smith, L.2    Kennedy, R.M.3
  • 96
    • 0027009732 scopus 로고
    • A local Fourier approximation method for irregular wave kinematics
    • Sobey R.J., 1992, A local Fourier approximation method for irregular wave kinematics, Appl. Ocean Res., 14(2), 93-105.
    • (1992) Appl. Ocean Res , vol.14 , Issue.2 , pp. 93-105
    • Sobey, R.J.1
  • 97
    • 0036752566 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • On determining the onset and strength of breaking for deep water waves. Part I: Unforced irrotational wave groups
    • Song J.-B., Banner M.L., 2002, On determining the onset and strength of breaking for deep water waves. Part I: Unforced irrotational wave groups, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32(9), 2541-2558.
    • (2002) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.32 , Issue.9 , pp. 2541-2558
    • Song, J.-B.1    Banner, M.L.2
  • 98
    • 0000713996 scopus 로고
    • On the probability of wave breaking in deep water
    • Srokosz M.A., 1986, On the probability of wave breaking in deep water, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 16(2), 382-385.
    • (1986) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.16 , Issue.2 , pp. 382-385
    • Srokosz, M.A.1
  • 100
    • 0142092244 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Observations of oceanic whitecaps in the north polar waters of the Atlantic
    • doi:10.1029/2002JC001321
    • Stramska M., Petelski T., 2003, Observations of oceanic whitecaps in the north polar waters of the Atlantic, J. Geophys. Res., 108 (C3), 3086, doi:10.1029/2002JC001321.
    • (2003) J. Geophys. Res , vol.108 , Issue.C3 , pp. 3086
    • Stramska, M.1    Petelski, T.2
  • 101
    • 0021521973 scopus 로고
    • Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone
    • Svendsen I.A., 1984, Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone, Coast. Eng., 8 (4), 303-329.
    • (1984) Coast. Eng , vol.8 , Issue.4 , pp. 303-329
    • Svendsen, I.A.1
  • 102
    • 0027790694 scopus 로고
    • Energy loss by breaking waves
    • Thorpe S.A., 1993, Energy loss by breaking waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 23(11), 2498-2502.
    • (1993) J. Phys. Oceanogr , vol.23 , Issue.11 , pp. 2498-2502
    • Thorpe, S.A.1
  • 103
    • 0001505501 scopus 로고
    • Local balance in the air-sea boundary process. III. On the spectrum of wind waves
    • Toba Y., 1973, Local balance in the air-sea boundary process. III. On the spectrum of wind waves, J. Oceanogr. Soc. Jpn., 29(5), 209-220.
    • (1973) J. Oceanogr. Soc. Jpn , vol.29 , Issue.5 , pp. 209-220
    • Toba, Y.1
  • 104
    • 33845613261 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Wave induced pore pressure-air/gas content
    • Tørum A., 2007, Wave induced pore pressure-air/gas content, J. Waterw. Port C. Div., 133(1), 83-86.
    • (2007) J. Waterw. Port C. Div , vol.133 , Issue.1 , pp. 83-86
    • Tørum, A.1
  • 105
    • 0004279037 scopus 로고
    • Tørum A., Gudmestad O.T. (eds.), Kluwer Acad. Publ., Dordrecht
    • Tørum A., Gudmestad O.T. (eds.), 1990, Water wave kinematics, Kluwer Acad. Publ., Dordrecht, 771 pp.
    • (1990) Water Wave Kinematics , pp. 771
  • 106
    • 0030283527 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A modified non-linear Schrödinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water
    • Trulsen K., Dysthe K.B., 1996, A modified non-linear Schrödinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water, Wave Motion, 24(3), 281-289.
    • (1996) Wave Motion , vol.24 , Issue.3 , pp. 281-289
    • Trulsen, K.1    Dysthe, K.B.2
  • 107
    • 0002610950 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Freak waves - a three-dimensional wave simulation
    • Nat. Acad. Press
    • Trulsen K., Dysthe K., 1997, Freak waves - a three-dimensional wave simulation, Proc. 21 Symp. Nav. Hydrodyn., Nat. Acad. Press, 550-560.
    • (1997) Proc. 21 Symp. Nav. Hydrodyn , pp. 550-560
    • Trulsen, K.1    Dysthe, K.2
  • 108
    • 0032640252 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Laboratory observations of wave group evolution including breaking effects
    • Tulin M.P., Waseda T., 1999, Laboratory observations of wave group evolution including breaking effects, J. Fluid Mech., 378, 197-232.
    • (1999) J. Fluid Mech , vol.378 , pp. 197-232
    • Tulin, M.P.1    Waseda, T.2
  • 110
    • 0002098295 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Experimental study of the stability of deep-water wave trains including wind effects
    • Waseda T., Tulin M.P., 1999, Experimental study of the stability of deep-water wave trains including wind effects, J. Fluid Mech., 401, 55-84.
    • (1999) J. Fluid Mech , vol.401 , pp. 55-84
    • Waseda, T.1    Tulin, M.P.2
  • 112
    • 84910802485 scopus 로고
    • Method for calculating forces produced by irregular waves
    • Wheeler J.D., 1970, Method for calculating forces produced by irregular waves, Proc. Offshore Technol. Conf., 1, 71-82.
    • (1970) Proc. Offshore Technol. Conf , vol.1 , pp. 71-82
    • Wheeler, J.D.1
  • 113
    • 0033670779 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Probability of wave breaking and whitecap coverage in a fetch-limited sea
    • Xu D., Liu X., Yu D., 2000, Probability of wave breaking and whitecap coverage in a fetch-limited sea, J. Geophys. Res., 105(C6), 14253-14259.
    • (2000) J. Geophys. Res , vol.105 , Issue.C6 , pp. 14253-14259
    • Xu, D.1    Liu, X.2    Yu, D.3
  • 114
    • 34250447917 scopus 로고
    • Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid
    • Zakharov V. E., 1968, Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid, J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phy., 9(2), 190-194.
    • (1968) J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phy , vol.9 , Issue.2 , pp. 190-194
    • Zakharov, V.E.1


* 이 정보는 Elsevier사의 SCOPUS DB에서 KISTI가 분석하여 추출한 것입니다.