-
1
-
-
0018107498
-
On the numerical modelling of short waves in shallow water
-
Abbott M.B., Petersen H.M., and Skovgaard O. On the numerical modelling of short waves in shallow water. J. Hyd. Res. 16 (1978) 173-203
-
(1978)
J. Hyd. Res.
, vol.16
, pp. 173-203
-
-
Abbott, M.B.1
Petersen, H.M.2
Skovgaard, O.3
-
2
-
-
0000299793
-
A new approach to high order Boussinesq models
-
Agnon Y., Madsen P.A., and Schäffer H.A. A new approach to high order Boussinesq models. J. Fluid Mech. 399 (1999) 319-333
-
(1999)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.399
, pp. 319-333
-
-
Agnon, Y.1
Madsen, P.A.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
-
4
-
-
33749491025
-
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and runup at a beach
-
Borthwick A.G.L., Ford M., Weston B.P., Taylor B.H., and Stansby P.K. Solitary wave transformation, breaking and runup at a beach. Maritime Eng. 159 (2006) 97-105
-
(2006)
Maritime Eng.
, vol.159
, pp. 97-105
-
-
Borthwick, A.G.L.1
Ford, M.2
Weston, B.P.3
Taylor, B.H.4
Stansby, P.K.5
-
6
-
-
10244251673
-
Boussinesq evolution equations: numerical efficiency, breaking and amplitude dispersion
-
Bredmose H., Schäffer H.A., and Madsen P.A. Boussinesq evolution equations: numerical efficiency, breaking and amplitude dispersion. Coast. Eng. 51 (2004) 1117-1142
-
(2004)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.51
, pp. 1117-1142
-
-
Bredmose, H.1
Schäffer, H.A.2
Madsen, P.A.3
-
8
-
-
0009133928
-
An extension of Boussinesq type model to the surf zone
-
Brocchini, M., Cherubini, P., Iovenitti, L., 1991. An extension of Boussinesq type model to the surf zone. In: Proceedings of the 2nd Conference on Comp. Model. Ocean Eng. 349-360.
-
(1991)
Proceedings of the 2nd Conference on Comp. Model. Ocean Eng
, pp. 349-360
-
-
Brocchini, M.1
Cherubini, P.2
Iovenitti, L.3
-
9
-
-
84958444933
-
Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach
-
Carrier G.F., and Greenspan H.P. Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J. Fluid Mech. 4 (1958) 97-109
-
(1958)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.4
, pp. 97-109
-
-
Carrier, G.F.1
Greenspan, H.P.2
-
10
-
-
0343527338
-
Calculation of shallow water flows using a Cartesian cut cell approach
-
Causon D.M., Ingram D.M., Mingham C.G., Yang G., and Pearson R. Calculation of shallow water flows using a Cartesian cut cell approach. Adv. Water Res. 23 (2000) 545-562
-
(2000)
Adv. Water Res.
, vol.23
, pp. 545-562
-
-
Causon, D.M.1
Ingram, D.M.2
Mingham, C.G.3
Yang, G.4
Pearson, R.5
-
11
-
-
0005835773
-
Wave transformation over a submerged shoal
-
No. 96-03, Dept. of Civ. Eng, University of Delaware
-
Chawla, A., Kirby, J.T., 1996. Wave transformation over a submerged shoal. CACR Rep. No. 96-03, Dept. of Civ. Eng., University of Delaware.
-
(1996)
CACR Rep
-
-
Chawla, A.1
Kirby, J.T.2
-
12
-
-
0342827822
-
Boussinesq modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. Part2: 2D
-
Chen Q., Kirby J.T., Dalrymple R.A., Kennedy A.B., and Chawla A. Boussinesq modelling of wave transformation, breaking and runup. Part2: 2D. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 126 (2000) 48-56
-
(2000)
J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE
, vol.126
, pp. 48-56
-
-
Chen, Q.1
Kirby, J.T.2
Dalrymple, R.A.3
Kennedy, A.B.4
Chawla, A.5
-
13
-
-
33947224160
-
A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: Boundary conditions and validation
-
Cienfuegos R., Barthélemy E., and Bonneton P. A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: Boundary conditions and validation. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 53 (2007) 1423-1455
-
(2007)
Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids
, vol.53
, pp. 1423-1455
-
-
Cienfuegos, R.1
Barthélemy, E.2
Bonneton, P.3
-
14
-
-
76349112042
-
Wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation
-
Cienfuegos R., Barthélemy E., and Bonneton P. Wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 136 1 (2010) 10-26
-
(2010)
J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE
, vol.136
, Issue.1
, pp. 10-26
-
-
Cienfuegos, R.1
Barthélemy, E.2
Bonneton, P.3
-
15
-
-
0006013815
-
Mathematical modelling of waves in the surf zone
-
69. ISVA, Lyngby, pp
-
Deigaard, R., 1989. Mathematical modelling of waves in the surf zone. Progress Report 69. ISVA, Lyngby, pp. 47-59.
-
(1989)
Progress Report
, pp. 47-59
-
-
Deigaard, R.1
-
16
-
-
28144441044
-
Hybrid finite-volume finite-difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations
-
Erduran K.S., Ilic S., and Kutija V. Hybrid finite-volume finite-difference scheme for the solution of Boussinesq equations. Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids 49 (2005) 1213-1232
-
(2005)
Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids
, vol.49
, pp. 1213-1232
-
-
Erduran, K.S.1
Ilic, S.2
Kutija, V.3
-
17
-
-
36549000207
-
Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model
-
Fuhrman D.R., and Madsen P.A. Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model. Coast. Eng. 55 (2008) 139-154
-
(2008)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.55
, pp. 139-154
-
-
Fuhrman, D.R.1
Madsen, P.A.2
-
19
-
-
0027009570
-
Wave set-up, wave run-up and beach water table: Interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics
-
Gourlay M.R. Wave set-up, wave run-up and beach water table: Interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics. Coast. Eng. 17 (1992) 93-144
-
(1992)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.17
, pp. 93-144
-
-
Gourlay, M.R.1
-
20
-
-
77951132117
-
-
Goutal, N., Maurel, F., 1997. Proceedings of the 2nd Workshop on Dam-Break Wave Simulation. Technical Report HE-43/97/016a, Électricité de France, LNHE.
-
Goutal, N., Maurel, F., 1997. Proceedings of the 2nd Workshop on Dam-Break Wave Simulation. Technical Report HE-43/97/016a, Électricité de France, LNHE.
-
-
-
-
21
-
-
0018316888
-
Regular waves in shoaling water: Experimental data
-
Technical Report, ISVA Series Paper 21
-
Hansen, J.B., Svendsen, I.A., 1979. Regular waves in shoaling water: experimental data. Technical Report, ISVA Series Paper 21.
-
(1979)
-
-
Hansen, J.B.1
Svendsen, I.A.2
-
22
-
-
0018654987
-
Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore
-
Hibberd S., and Peregrine D.H. Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore. J. Fluid Mech. 95 2 (1979) 323-345
-
(1979)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.95
, Issue.2
, pp. 323-345
-
-
Hibberd, S.1
Peregrine, D.H.2
-
23
-
-
0032215868
-
A bore-capturing finite volume method for open-channel flows
-
Hu K., Mingham C.G., and Causon D.M. A bore-capturing finite volume method for open-channel flows. Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids 28 (1998) 1241-1261
-
(1998)
Int. J. Numer. Methods Fluids
, vol.28
, pp. 1241-1261
-
-
Hu, K.1
Mingham, C.G.2
Causon, D.M.3
-
24
-
-
0036839005
-
A 2D numerical model of wave run-up and overtopping
-
Hubbard M.E., and Dodd N. A 2D numerical model of wave run-up and overtopping. Coast. Eng. 47 (2002) 1-26
-
(2002)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.47
, pp. 1-26
-
-
Hubbard, M.E.1
Dodd, N.2
-
25
-
-
0011032642
-
Flux difference splitting and the balancing of source terms and flux gradients
-
Hubbard M.E., and Garcia-Navarro P. Flux difference splitting and the balancing of source terms and flux gradients. J. Comput. Phys. 165 (2000) 89-125
-
(2000)
J. Comput. Phys.
, vol.165
, pp. 89-125
-
-
Hubbard, M.E.1
Garcia-Navarro, P.2
-
26
-
-
0027009623
-
A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations
-
Karambas Th.V., and Koutitas C. A breaking wave propagation model based on the Boussinesq equations. Coast. Eng. 18 (1992) 1-19
-
(1992)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.18
, pp. 1-19
-
-
Karambas, Th.V.1
Koutitas, C.2
-
27
-
-
0000709564
-
Nonlinear wave energy modeling in the surf cone
-
Karambas Th.V. Nonlinear wave energy modeling in the surf cone. Nonlinear Process. Geophys. 3 (1996) 127-134
-
(1996)
Nonlinear Process. Geophys.
, vol.3
, pp. 127-134
-
-
Karambas, Th.V.1
-
28
-
-
0042427264
-
Breaking waves in the Surf and Swash Zone
-
Karambas Th.V., and Tozer N.P. Breaking waves in the Surf and Swash Zone. J. Coast. Res. 19 3 (2003) 514-528
-
(2003)
J. Coast. Res.
, vol.19
, Issue.3
, pp. 514-528
-
-
Karambas, Th.V.1
Tozer, N.P.2
-
29
-
-
0342827823
-
Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup (Part I)
-
Kennedy A.B., Chen Q., Kirby J.T., and Dalrymple R.A. Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup (Part I). J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 126 (2000) 39-56
-
(2000)
J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE
, vol.126
, pp. 39-56
-
-
Kennedy, A.B.1
Chen, Q.2
Kirby, J.T.3
Dalrymple, R.A.4
-
30
-
-
0032021727
-
A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone
-
Lin P., and Liu P.L.-F. A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J. Fluid Mech. 359 (1998) 239-264
-
(1998)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.359
, pp. 239-264
-
-
Lin, P.1
Liu, P.L.-F.2
-
31
-
-
0029409394
-
Runup of solitary waves on a circular island
-
Liu P.L.-F., Cho Y.-S., Briggs M.J., Kanoglu U., and Synolakis C.E. Runup of solitary waves on a circular island. J. Fluid Mech. 302 (1995) 259-285
-
(1995)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.302
, pp. 259-285
-
-
Liu, P.L.-F.1
Cho, Y.-S.2
Briggs, M.J.3
Kanoglu, U.4
Synolakis, C.E.5
-
32
-
-
84904798921
-
Bottom stress in non stationary free surface flow
-
Lund
-
Longo, S., Petti, M., Pasotti, N., 2001. Bottom stress in non stationary free surface flow. In: Proceedings of the 4th Conferenc on Coastal Dynamics, Lund.
-
(2001)
Proceedings of the 4th Conferenc on Coastal Dynamics
-
-
Longo, S.1
Petti, M.2
Pasotti, N.3
-
33
-
-
12144258079
-
Linear analysis of the multi-layer model
-
Lynett P.J., and Liu P.F.L. Linear analysis of the multi-layer model. Coast. Eng. 51 (2004) 439-454
-
(2004)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.51
, pp. 439-454
-
-
Lynett, P.J.1
Liu, P.F.L.2
-
34
-
-
0036647126
-
Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations
-
Lynett P.J., Wu T.-R., and Liu P.L.-F. Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations. Coast Eng. 46 (2002) 89-107
-
(2002)
Coast Eng.
, vol.46
, pp. 89-107
-
-
Lynett, P.J.1
Wu, T.-R.2
Liu, P.L.-F.3
-
35
-
-
0037055049
-
A new Boussinesq method for fully nonlinear waves from shallow to deep water
-
Madsen P.A., Bingham H.B., and Liu H. A new Boussinesq method for fully nonlinear waves from shallow to deep water. J. Fluid Mech. 462 (2002) 1-30
-
(2002)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.462
, pp. 1-30
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Bingham, H.B.2
Liu, H.3
-
36
-
-
0026191546
-
A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 1
-
Madsen P.A., Murray R., and Sørensen O.R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics: Part 1. Coast. Eng. 15 (1991) 371-388
-
(1991)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.15
, pp. 371-388
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Murray, R.2
Sørensen, O.R.3
-
37
-
-
3242825992
-
Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis
-
Madsen P.A., and Schäffer H.A. Higher-order Boussinesq-type equations for surface gravity waves: derivation and analysis. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. London 356 (1998) 3123-3184
-
(1998)
Phil. Trans. R. Soc. London
, vol.356
, pp. 3123-3184
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Schäffer, H.A.2
-
38
-
-
0027007549
-
A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2: A slowly varying bathymetry
-
Madsen P.A., and Sørensen O.R. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2: A slowly varying bathymetry. Coast. Eng. 18 (1992) 183-204
-
(1992)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.18
, pp. 183-204
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Sørensen, O.R.2
-
39
-
-
0031430444
-
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves
-
Madsen P.A., Sørensen O.R., and Schäffer H.A. Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves. Coast. Eng. 32 (1997) 255-287
-
(1997)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.32
, pp. 255-287
-
-
Madsen, P.A.1
Sørensen, O.R.2
Schäffer, H.A.3
-
41
-
-
0027789687
-
An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation
-
Nwogu O. An alternative form of the Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 119 (1993) 618-638
-
(1993)
J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE
, vol.119
, pp. 618-638
-
-
Nwogu, O.1
-
42
-
-
33745053080
-
The relative trough Froude number for initiation of wave breaking: theory, experiments and numerical model confirmation
-
Okamoto T., and Basco D.R. The relative trough Froude number for initiation of wave breaking: theory, experiments and numerical model confirmation. Coast. Eng. 53 (2006) 675-690
-
(2006)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.53
, pp. 675-690
-
-
Okamoto, T.1
Basco, D.R.2
-
43
-
-
0034332771
-
Velocity predictions for shoaling and breaking waves with a Boussinesq-type model
-
Ozanne F., Chadwick A.D., Huntley D.A., Simmonds D.J., and Lawrence J. Velocity predictions for shoaling and breaking waves with a Boussinesq-type model. Coast. Eng. 41 (2000) 361-397
-
(2000)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.41
, pp. 361-397
-
-
Ozanne, F.1
Chadwick, A.D.2
Huntley, D.A.3
Simmonds, D.J.4
Lawrence, J.5
-
44
-
-
84958444374
-
Calculations of the development of an undular bore
-
Peregrine D.H. Calculations of the development of an undular bore. J. Fluid Mech. 25 2 (1966) 321-330
-
(1966)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.25
, Issue.2
, pp. 321-330
-
-
Peregrine, D.H.1
-
45
-
-
84958426983
-
Long waves on a beach
-
Peregrine D.H. Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27 (1967) 815-827
-
(1967)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.27
, pp. 815-827
-
-
Peregrine, D.H.1
-
46
-
-
85187997987
-
Spilling breaker, bores and hydraulic jumps
-
Peregrine, D.H., Svendsen, I.A., 1978. Spilling breaker, bores and hydraulic jumps. In: Proceeding of the 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 540-550.
-
(1978)
Proceeding of the 16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
, pp. 540-550
-
-
Peregrine, D.H.1
Svendsen, I.A.2
-
47
-
-
58449085045
-
Hybrid finite-volume modelling of the surf zone
-
Venice
-
Petti, M., Bosa, S., 2007. Hybrid finite-volume modelling of the surf zone. In: 32nd IAHR Congress, Venice.
-
(2007)
32nd IAHR Congress
-
-
Petti, M.1
Bosa, S.2
-
48
-
-
0029545250
-
Non-breaking undular hydraulic jump
-
Reinnauer R.R., and Hager W.H. Non-breaking undular hydraulic jump. J. Hyd. Res. 33 (1995) 683-704
-
(1995)
J. Hyd. Res.
, vol.33
, pp. 683-704
-
-
Reinnauer, R.R.1
Hager, W.H.2
-
49
-
-
0027788993
-
A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water
-
Schäffer H.A., Madsen P.A., and Deigaard R. A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water. Coast. Eng. 20 (1993) 185-202
-
(1993)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.20
, pp. 185-202
-
-
Schäffer, H.A.1
Madsen, P.A.2
Deigaard, R.3
-
50
-
-
0036431346
-
Undular bores and secondary waves - experiments and hybrid finite-volume modelling
-
Soares Frazão S., and Zech Y. Undular bores and secondary waves - experiments and hybrid finite-volume modelling. J. Hyd. Res. 40 (2002) 33-43
-
(2002)
J. Hyd. Res.
, vol.40
, pp. 33-43
-
-
Soares Frazão, S.1
Zech, Y.2
-
51
-
-
0023563975
-
The runup of solitary waves
-
Synolakis C.E. The runup of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 185 (1987) 523-545
-
(1987)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.185
, pp. 523-545
-
-
Synolakis, C.E.1
-
52
-
-
0021521973
-
Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone
-
Svendsen I.A. Wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. Coast. Eng. 8 (1984) 303-329
-
(1984)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.8
, pp. 303-329
-
-
Svendsen, I.A.1
-
53
-
-
0028668695
-
Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
-
Ting F.C.K., and Kirby J.T. Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone. Coast. Eng. 24 (1994) 51-80
-
(1994)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.24
, pp. 51-80
-
-
Ting, F.C.K.1
Kirby, J.T.2
-
54
-
-
0030199789
-
Dynamics of surf zone turbulence in a spilling breaker
-
Ting F.C.K., and Kirby J.T. Dynamics of surf zone turbulence in a spilling breaker. Coast. Eng. 27 (1996) 131-160
-
(1996)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.27
, pp. 131-160
-
-
Ting, F.C.K.1
Kirby, J.T.2
-
56
-
-
0034001559
-
The flow in surf-zone waves
-
Veeramony J., and Svendsen I.A. The flow in surf-zone waves. Coast. Eng. 39 (2000) 93-122
-
(2000)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.39
, pp. 93-122
-
-
Veeramony, J.1
Svendsen, I.A.2
-
57
-
-
0000413879
-
Low frequency waves in the surf zone
-
Watson, G., Peregrine, D.H., 1992. Low frequency waves in the surf zone. In: Proceedings of 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, vol. 1, pp. 818-831.
-
(1992)
Proceedings of 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
, vol.1
, pp. 818-831
-
-
Watson, G.1
Peregrine, D.H.2
-
58
-
-
0029478516
-
Time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations
-
Wei G., and Kirby J.T. Time-dependent numerical code for extended Boussinesq equations. J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE 121 (1995) 251-261
-
(1995)
J. Waterway Port Coast. Ocean Eng. ASCE
, vol.121
, pp. 251-261
-
-
Wei, G.1
Kirby, J.T.2
-
59
-
-
0029343414
-
A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves
-
Wei G., Kirby J.T., Grilli S.T., and Subramanya R. A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves. J. Fluid Mech. 294 (1995) 71-92
-
(1995)
J. Fluid Mech.
, vol.294
, pp. 71-92
-
-
Wei, G.1
Kirby, J.T.2
Grilli, S.T.3
Subramanya, R.4
-
60
-
-
0032100289
-
An efficient CDF approach for simulating unsteady hypersonic shock-shock interference flows
-
Yamamoto S., Kano S., and Daiguji H. An efficient CDF approach for simulating unsteady hypersonic shock-shock interference flows. Comp. Fluids 27 (1998) 571-580
-
(1998)
Comp. Fluids
, vol.27
, pp. 571-580
-
-
Yamamoto, S.1
Kano, S.2
Daiguji, H.3
-
61
-
-
0025920149
-
The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves
-
Zelt J.A. The run-up of non-breaking and breaking solitary waves. Coast. Eng. 15 (1991) 205-246
-
(1991)
Coast. Eng.
, vol.15
, pp. 205-246
-
-
Zelt, J.A.1
-
62
-
-
0002690008
-
The surface gradient method for the treatment of source terms in the shallow-water equations
-
Zhou J.G., Causon D.M., Mingham C.G., and Ingram D.M. The surface gradient method for the treatment of source terms in the shallow-water equations. J. Comput. Phys. 168 (2000) 1-25
-
(2000)
J. Comput. Phys.
, vol.168
, pp. 1-25
-
-
Zhou, J.G.1
Causon, D.M.2
Mingham, C.G.3
Ingram, D.M.4
|