Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers

European Journal of Applied Physiology

Volumn 107, Issue 5, 2009, Pages 517-525

  España Romero, Vanesa ^a,b   Ortega Porcel, Francisco B ^a,b   Artero, Enrique G ^a   Jiménez Pavón, David ^a,c   Gutiérrez Sainz, Ángel ^a   Castillo Garzón, Manuel J ^a   Ruiz, Jonatan R ^b  

^a UNIVERSITY OF GRANADA   (Spain)

^b KAROLINSKA INSTITUTE   (Sweden)

^c UNIVERSIDAD POLITÉCNICA DE MADRID   (Spain)

Author keywords

Bone mineral density; Climbing time to exhaustion; High level performance; Sport climbing

Indexed keywords

ADULT; ANTHROPOMETRY; ARTICLE; BODY COMPOSITION; BONE DENSITY; CLIMBING; CONTROLLED STUDY; DUAL ENERGY X RAY ABSORPTIOMETRY; ENDURANCE; EXHAUSTION; FEMALE; FITNESS; GRIP STRENGTH; HEART RATE VARIABILITY; HUMAN; HUMAN EXPERIMENT; MALE; NORMAL HUMAN; PRIORITY JOURNAL; QUESTIONNAIRE; SEX DIFFERENCE; SPORT; TASK PERFORMANCE; TIME;

ADULT; ATHLETES; ATHLETIC PERFORMANCE; BODY COMPOSITION; BODY WEIGHTS AND MEASURES; FEMALE; HAND STRENGTH; HUMANS; MALE; MOUNTAINEERING; OXYGEN CONSUMPTION; PHYSICAL EXERTION; PHYSICAL FITNESS; TIME FACTORS;

EID: 70350695992     PISSN: 14396319     EISSN: None     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1007/s00421-009-1155-x     Document Type: Article

References (35)

1. Bertuzzi RC, Franchini E, Kokubun E, Kiss MA (2007) Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol 101:293-300
2. Billat V, Palleja P, Charlaix T, Rizzardo P, Janel N (1995) Energy specificity of rock climbing and aerobic capacity in competitive sport rock climbers. J Sports Med Phys Fitness 35:20-24
3. Boadella JM, Kuijer PP, Sluiter JK, Frings-Dresen MH (2005) Effect of self-selected handgrip position on maximal handgrip strength. Arch Phys Med Rehabil 86:328-331
4. Booth J, Marino F, Hill C, Gwinn T (1999) Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers. Br J Sports Med 33:14-18
5. Borg GA (1974) Perceived exertion. Exerc Sport Sci Rev 2:131-153
6. Bradshaw DI, George JD, Hyde A, LaMonte MJ, Vehrs PR, Hager RL, Yanowitz FG (2005) An accurate VO2max nonexercise regression model for 18-65-year-old adults. Res Q Exerc Sport 76:426-432
7. Clerke AM, Clerke JP, Adams RD (2005) Effects of hand shape on maximal isometric grip strength and its reliability in teenagers. J Hand Ther 18:19-29
8. Cutts A, Bollen SR (1993) Grip strength and endurance in rock climbers. Proc Inst Mech Eng H 207:87-92
9. de Geus B, Villanueva O'Driscoll S, Meeusen R (2006) Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty. Eur J Appl Physiol 98:489-496
10. Duffield R, Dawson B, Pinnington HC, Wong P (2004) Accuracy and reliability of a Cosmed K4b2 portable gas analysis system. J Sci Med Sport 7:11-22
11. España-Romero V, Ortega Porcel F, García-Artero E, Ruiz JR, Gutiérrez Sainz A (2006) Performance, anthropometric and muscle strength characteristics in Spanish elite rock climbers. Selección Rev Esp Iberoam Med Educ Fís Dep 15:176-183
12. España-Romero V, Santaliestra-Pasias AM, Gutierrez A, Castillo MJ, Ruiz JR (2008) Hand span influences optimal grip span in boys and girls aged 6 to 12 years. J Hand Surg Am 33:378-384
13. España-Romero V, Ruiz JR, Ortega Porcel F, Artero EG, Vicente-Rodriguez G, Moreno LA, Castillo MJ, Gutiérrez Sainz A (2009) Body fat measurement in elite sport climbers: Comparison of skinfold thickness equations with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry. J Sports Sci 27:469-477
14. Frost HM (2000) Muscle, bone, and the Utah paradigm: A 1999 overview. Med Sci Sports Exerc 32:911-917
15. Giles LV, Rhodes EC, Taunton JE (2006) The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Med 36:529-545
16. Grant S, Hynes V, Whittaker A, Aitchison T (1996) Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. J Sports Sci 14:301-309
17. Grant S, Hasler T, Davies C, Aitchison TC, Wilson J, Whittaker A (2001) A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers. J Sports Sci 19:499-505
18. Hausswirth C, Bigard AX, Le Chevalier JM (1997) The Cosmed K4 telemetry system as an accurate device for oxygen uptake measurements during exercise. Int J Sports Med 18:449-453
19. Jackson AS, Ellis KJ, McFarlin BK, Sailors MH, Bray MS (2009) Cross-validation of generalised body composition equations with diverse young men and women: The Training Intervention and Genetics of Exercise Response (TIGER) Study. Br J Nutr 101:871-878
20. McLaughlin JE, King GA, Howley ET, Bassett DR Jr, Ainsworth BE (2001) Validation of the COSMED K4 b2 portable metabolic system. Int J Sports Med 22:280-284
21. Mermier CM, Robergs RA, McMinn SM, Heyward VH (1997) Energy expenditure and physiological responses during indoor rock climbing. Br J Sports Med 31:224-228
22. Mermier CM, Janot JM, Parker DL, Swan JG (2000) Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. Br J Sports Med 34:359-365 discussion 366
23. Rodriguez G, Moreno LA, Blay MG, Blay VA, Fleta J, Sarria A, Bueno M (2005) Body fat measurement in adolescents: Comparison of skinfold thickness equations with dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry. Eur J Clin Nutr 59:1158-1166
24. Ruiz JR, Espana-Romero V, Ortega FB, Sjostrom M, Castillo MJ, Gutierrez A (2006) Hand span influences optimal grip span in male and female teenagers. J Hand Surg Am 31:1367-1372
25. Ruiz-Ruiz J, Mesa JL, Gutierrez A, Castillo MJ (2002) Hand size influences optimal grip span in women but not in men. J Hand Surg Am 27:897-901
26. Sheel AW, Seddon N, Knight A, McKenzie DC, Warburton DER (2003) Physiological responses to indoor rock-climbing and their relationship to maximal cycle ergometry. Med Sci Sports Exerc 35:1225-1231
27. Vicente-Rodriguez G, Ara I, Perez-Gomez J, Dorado C, Calbet JA (2005) Muscular development and physical activity as major determinants of femoral bone mass acquisition during growth. Br J Sports Med 39:611-616
28. Wall CB, Starek JE, Fleck SJ, Byrnes WC (2004) Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 18:77-83
29. Watts PB (2004) Physiology of difficult rock climbing. Eur J Appl Physiol 91:361-372
30. Watts PB, Drobish KM (1998) Physiological responses to simulated rock climbing at different angles. Med Sci Sports Exerc 30:1118-1122
31. Watts PB, Martin DT, Durtschi S (1993) Anthropometric profiles of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. J Sports Sci 11:113-117
32. Watts P, Newbury V, Sulentic J (1996) Acute changes in handgrip strength, endurance, and blood lactate with sustained sport rock climbing. J Sports Med Phys Fitness 36:255-260
33. Watts PB, Daggett M, Gallagher P, Wilkins B (2000) Metabolic response during sport rock climbing and the effects of active versus passive recovery. Int J Sports Med 21:185-190
34. Watts PB, Joubert LM, Lish AK, Mast JD, Wilkins B (2003) Anthropometry of young competitive sport rock climbers. Br J Sports Med 37:420-424
35. Watts K, Naylor LH, Davis EA, Jones TW, Beeson B, Bettenay F, Siafarikas A, Bell L, Ackland T, Green DJ (2006) Do skinfolds accurately assess changes in body fat in obese children and adolescents? Med Sci Sports Exerc 38:439-444