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Volumn 39, Issue 2, 2008, Pages 145-171

Boom-time freaks or heroic industrial pioneers? Clothing entrepreneurs in sixteenth- and early seventeenth-century Berkshire

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

CLOTHING INDUSTRY; HISTORICAL TEXTILE; HISTORY; MARKET;

EID: 69849132864     PISSN: 00404969     EISSN: 17432952     Source Type: Journal    
DOI: 10.1179/174329508x347061     Document Type: Conference Paper
Times cited : (8)

References (201)
  • 1
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    • ed. John Scattergood Harmondsworth: Penguin
    • John Skelton, The Complete English Poems ed. John Scattergood (Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1983);
    • (1983) The Complete English Poems
    • Skelton, J.1
  • 3
    • 33750134561 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Francis O. Mann ed, Oxford: Clarendon Press
    • Francis O. Mann ed., The Works of Thomas Deloney (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1912);
    • (1912) The Works of Thomas Deloney
  • 5
    • 0042942399 scopus 로고
    • ed. John Freeman London: George Allen & Unwin
    • Thomas Fuller, The Worthies of England ed. John Freeman (London: George Allen & Unwin, 1952);
    • (1952) The Worthies of England
    • Fuller, T.1
  • 6
    • 0003564935 scopus 로고
    • A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain
    • Harmondsworth: Penguin, 26
    • Daniel Defoe, A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain (1st publ. 1724-26, Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1971).
    • (1724) (1st publ
    • Defoe, D.1
  • 7
    • 70249139329 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • British Library, 1079.i.14 (13), The History of Jack of Newbury, called The Clothier of England; D.287(1),
    • British Library, 1079.i.14 (13), The History of Jack of Newbury, called The Clothier of England; D.287(1),
  • 8
    • 70249102976 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Jack of Newbury, written by James Hook and published in London c. 1750.
    • Jack of Newbury, written by James Hook and published in London c. 1750.
  • 12
    • 70249147456 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The guild system was never well suited to the production of cloth because of the number and diversity of the manufacturing processes. The putting-out system facilitated expansion with minimal overheads because outworkers were employed on piece-rates in their own homes and often provided their own tools and equipment. Centralization was pursued through progressive investment in successive stages of manufacture (vertical integration) on one or more sites and in exceptional cases led to the development of proto-factories large unmechanized workshops
    • The guild system was never well suited to the production of cloth because of the number and diversity of the manufacturing processes. The putting-out system facilitated expansion with minimal overheads because outworkers were employed on piece-rates in their own homes and often provided their own tools and equipment. Centralization was pursued through progressive investment in successive stages of manufacture (vertical integration) on one or more sites and in exceptional cases led to the development of proto-factories (large unmechanized workshops).
  • 13
    • 70249116251 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • See above, pp. 155-56
    • See above, pp. 155-56.
  • 14
    • 70249091642 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Reading broadcloths were heavyweight woollen cloths, plain woven and dyed in the wool. By the late sixteenth century the cloths were often described as medley or mingled cloths because of the distinctive finish achieved by mingling coloured wools before carding and weaving. The royal charter granted to Reading weavers in 1520 specified that Reading cloths were to contain seven quarters and a half at least in breadth throughout the cloth, six and 20 yards in length when thickened at the water and two yards in breadth when dry and thickened. The 1552 Act for True Making of Woollen Cloth specified that long broadcloths made in the town of Reading and the counties of Kent, Sussex and Yorkshire were to measure 28 to 30 yards in length and seven quarters in width between the lists at the water, whilst weighing at least 90 lbs (reduced to 86 lbs in 1557) when dry after fulling. The maximum length and minimum breadth of 'long broadcloths and cloths which shall be made of died wools and mingled
    • Reading broadcloths were heavyweight woollen cloths, plain woven and dyed in the wool. By the late sixteenth century the cloths were often described as medley or mingled cloths because of the distinctive finish achieved by mingling coloured wools before carding and weaving. The royal charter granted to Reading weavers in 1520 specified that Reading cloths were to contain seven quarters and a half at least in breadth throughout the cloth, six and 20 yards in length when thickened at the water and two yards in breadth when dry and thickened. The 1552 Act for True Making of Woollen Cloth specified that long broadcloths made in the town of Reading and the counties of Kent, Sussex and Yorkshire were to measure 28 to 30 yards in length and seven quarters in width between the lists at the water, whilst weighing at least 90 lbs (reduced to 86 lbs in 1557) when dry after fulling. The maximum length and minimum breadth of 'long broadcloths and cloths which shall be made of died wools and mingled colours' were further revised in 1607. Kersey was a smaller and lighter woollen fabric. The 1552 statute specified that each ordinary kersey was to measure between 17 and 18 yards in length at the water (revised to 16-18 yards in 1557) and to weigh at least 20 lbs when dry after fulling, whilst each sorting kersey was to measure between 17 and 18 yards in length at the water, but when dry after fulling was to weigh at least 23 lbs (reduced to 22 lbs in 1557). The specifications were revised in 1606. Berkshire Record Office, R/HMC/1, no. 16, Reading Weavers' Charter of Privileges; Statutes of the Realm, 5 & 6 Ed. VI, c.6; 4 Phil. & Mary, c. 5, 4 Jas. I, c. 2, 27 Hen VIII, c. 12; 33 Hen VIII, c. 18, 5 & 6 Ed. VI, c. 6; 4 Phil. & Mary, c. 5, 3 Jas. I, c. 16.
  • 17
    • 5644224058 scopus 로고
    • unpublished PhD thesis, Reading University, pp, Reading Abbey was dissolved in September 1539
    • Christine A. Jackson, 'The Berkshire Woollen Industry 1500-1650' (unpublished PhD thesis, 1993, Reading University), pp. 19-22, 155. Reading Abbey was dissolved in September 1539.
    • (1993) The Berkshire Woollen Industry 1500-1650
    • Jackson, C.A.1
  • 19
    • 70249113570 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Evidence for their business success is drawn from a range of sources including wills and inventories, merchants' account books, commercial correspondence, borough records, state papers, Privy Council records and tax records
    • Evidence for their business success is drawn from a range of sources including wills and inventories, merchants' account books, commercial correspondence, borough records, state papers, Privy Council records and tax records.
  • 20
    • 70249092376 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Deloney uses material, for example, from Boccaccio's Decameron. Warren E. Roberts, 'Folklore in the Novels of Thomas Deloney', in Winthrop E. Richmond ed., Studies in Folklore (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1957), p. 123. His interest in cloth-making may derive from his own early training and employment as a silk weaver.
    • Deloney uses material, for example, from Boccaccio's Decameron. Warren E. Roberts, 'Folklore in the Novels of Thomas Deloney', in Winthrop E. Richmond ed., Studies in Folklore (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1957), p. 123. His interest in cloth-making may derive from his own early training and employment as a silk weaver.
  • 21
    • 70249086087 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Fuller, for example, writing mid-seventeenth century, clearly identifies his subject as John Winchcombe I and describes him as 'the most considerable clothier (without fancy and fiction) England ever beheld'. Fuller, Worthies, p. 88.
    • Fuller, for example, writing mid-seventeenth century, clearly identifies his subject as John Winchcombe I and describes him as 'the most considerable clothier (without fancy and fiction) England ever beheld'. Fuller, Worthies, p. 88.
  • 22
    • 70249130704 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Defoe, writing half a century later, refers rather cautiously to 'the famous Jack of Newbery' whose story is 'almost grown fabulous' and mistakenly places the clothier in James I's reign. Defoe, Tour, p. 268. Both John Winchcombes use the alias Smallwood, as do members of the succeeding generation.
    • Defoe, writing half a century later, refers rather cautiously to 'the famous Jack of Newbery' whose story is 'almost grown fabulous' and mistakenly places the clothier in James I's reign. Defoe, Tour, p. 268. Both John Winchcombes use the alias Smallwood, as do members of the succeeding generation.
  • 23
    • 70249103325 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
  • 26
    • 70249131087 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Winchcombe's assessment for the Anticipation of 1523 was based on moveable goods and amounted to £230. He contributed £28 to the subsidy of 1525, representing 23 per cent of Newbury's tax bill of £120 3s 11d.
    • Winchcombe's assessment for the Anticipation of 1523 was based on moveable goods and amounted to £230. He contributed £28 to the subsidy of 1525, representing 23 per cent of Newbury's tax bill of £120 3s 11d.
  • 32
    • 70249122566 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Although Spring's wealth was exceptional, Thomas Smyth of Long Melford was valued at £600 on moveables and several other clothiers in the Babergh Hundred of Suffolk at c. £400. John Pound ed, The Military Survey of 1522 for Babergh Hundred Woodbridge, Boydell and Brewer, 1986, pp. 75, 83
    • Although Spring's wealth was exceptional, Thomas Smyth of Long Melford was valued at £600 on moveables and several other clothiers in the Babergh Hundred of Suffolk at c. £400. John Pound ed., The Military Survey of 1522 for Babergh Hundred (Woodbridge, Boydell and Brewer, 1986), pp. 75, 83.
  • 33
    • 84977252410 scopus 로고
    • Winchcombe Kersies in Antwerp
    • Florence Edler,'Winchcombe Kersies in Antwerp', Economic History Review, 1st ser., VII (1936), pp. 57-58.
    • (1936) Economic History Review , pp. 57-58
    • Edler, F.1
  • 36
    • 70249134416 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Easter fell on 6 April 1539. The National Archives, SP/1/143, Letter from Winchcombe to Cromwell.
    • Easter fell on 6 April 1539. The National Archives, SP/1/143, Letter from Winchcombe to Cromwell.
  • 39
    • 33750134561 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Deloney appears to contradict himself in the title-page to his novel when he claims that Winchcombe 'set continually five hundred poore people at worke, to the great benefite of the Common-wealth, But this may refer merely to the number of unskilled workers employed
    • Mann, Works of Thomas Deloney, pp. 20-21. Deloney appears to contradict himself in the title-page to his novel when he claims that Winchcombe 'set continually five hundred poore people at worke, to the great benefite of the Common-wealth'. But this may refer merely to the number of unskilled workers employed.
    • Works of Thomas Deloney , pp. 20-21
    • Mann1
  • 40
    • 70249147453 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bindoff, Commons, III, p. 405;
    • Commons , vol.3 , pp. 405
    • Bindoff1
  • 41
    • 70249112392 scopus 로고
    • Peter H. Ditchfield ed, London: St Catherine's Press
    • Peter H. Ditchfield ed., Victoria County History of Berkshire, IV (London: St Catherine's Press, 1924), p. 110.
    • (1924) Victoria County History of Berkshire, IV , pp. 110
  • 42
    • 70249147075 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Barbara McClenaghan, The Springs of Lavenham (Ipswich: W. E. Harrison, 1924), p. 7.
    • Barbara McClenaghan, The Springs of Lavenham (Ipswich: W. E. Harrison, 1924), p. 7.
  • 43
    • 70249130332 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mercers' Company Accounts, London, Gresham's Daybook, entry no. 5250; Southampton Record Office, Southampton Brokage Books, SC5//45.
    • Mercers' Company Accounts, London, Gresham's Daybook, entry no. 5250; Southampton Record Office, Southampton Brokage Books, SC5//45.
  • 44
    • 33750118223 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Dyeing Winchcombe Kersies and Other Kersey Cloth in Sixteenth-Century Newbury
    • See
    • See David Peacock, 'Dyeing Winchcombe Kersies and Other Kersey Cloth in Sixteenth-Century Newbury', Textile History, XXXVII, no. 2 (2006), pp. 190-92;
    • (2006) Textile History , vol.37 , Issue.2 , pp. 190-192
    • Peacock, D.1
  • 46
    • 70249099053 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/2/345. In his will of the previous year, Winchcombe valued the lease of his dyehouse 'with the howse and furniture p[er]teyning thereunto' at £60. The National Archives, prob/11/40 q. 26.
    • The National Archives, prob/2/345. In his will of the previous year, Winchcombe valued the lease of his dyehouse 'with the howse and furniture p[er]teyning thereunto' at £60. The National Archives, prob/11/40 q. 26.
  • 48
    • 70249145652 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
  • 49
    • 70249091641 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Oxford Archaeology '24 Northbrook Street, Newbury'; Berkshire Record Office, Wills, D/A1/132/183.
    • Oxford Archaeology '24 Northbrook Street, Newbury'; Berkshire Record Office, Wills, D/A1/132/183.
  • 50
    • 70249146359 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, Survey of the Manor of Newbury
    • The National Archives, LR/2/187, fols. 112-23, Survey of the Manor of Newbury.
    • LR/2/187, fols , pp. 112-123
  • 52
    • 70249094501 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., XVII, 1154 no. 30, p. 634;
    • Ibid., XVII, 1154 no. 30, p. 634;
  • 53
    • 70249149508 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • SGCA, leases, XV. 5.4.
    • SGCA, leases, XV. 5.4.
  • 54
    • 70249143446 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bindoff, Commons, III, p. 633.
    • Commons , vol.3 , pp. 633
    • Bindoff1
  • 55
    • 70249097894 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The inquisition post mortem value of Spring's lands in 1523 was £370-£380 according to separate figures provided in the Chancery and Exchequer series. Hoskins, Age of Plunder, p. 39.
    • The inquisition post mortem value of Spring's lands in 1523 was £370-£380 according to separate figures provided in the Chancery and Exchequer series. Hoskins, Age of Plunder, p. 39.
  • 56
    • 70249137443 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/2/345.
    • The National Archives, prob/2/345.
  • 59
    • 70249084356 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, T/R255, p. 31, Transcript of Newbury Parish Register, Burials 1538-64;
    • Berkshire Record Office, T/R255, p. 31, Transcript of Newbury Parish Register, Burials 1538-64;
  • 60
    • 60950218028 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Woollen Industry
    • Jackson, 'Berkshire Woollen Industry', p. 147.
    • Jackson1
  • 61
    • 70249101591 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A tod was a measurement of quantity used for weighing wool in and was normally 28 pounds
    • A tod was a measurement of quantity used for weighing wool in and was normally 28 pounds.
  • 62
    • 70249144169 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/132/183, Wills.
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/132/183, Wills.
  • 63
    • 70249103675 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Warp and Weft, p. 24.
    • Warp and Weft, p. 24.
  • 67
    • 70249125639 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/57 q.47. His will was modified in 1575.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/57 q.47. His will was modified in 1575.
  • 68
    • 70249131085 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives
    • The National Archives, E179/73/43, Lay Subsidy 1543-45.
    • E179/73/43, Lay Subsidy , pp. 1543-1545
  • 71
    • 70249090230 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The conglomeration of six or more looms would have been considered substantial
    • The conglomeration of six or more looms would have been considered substantial.
  • 72
    • 70249094151 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mercers' Company Archives, London, Gresham's Daybook. Gresham purchased 1,322 kersies from Bennet, August 1548-May 1550.
    • Mercers' Company Archives, London, Gresham's Daybook. Gresham purchased 1,322 kersies from Bennet, August 1548-May 1550.
  • 73
    • 70249087868 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, E101 347/17, Exchequer Accounts, Aulnage, List of Clothiers; George D. Ramsay ed., John Isham Mercer and Merchant Adventurer, two account books of a London merchant in the reign of Elizabeth I, XXI (Gateshead: Northants. Rec. Soc., 1962), p. lv.
    • The National Archives, E101 347/17, Exchequer Accounts, Aulnage, List of Clothiers; George D. Ramsay ed., John Isham Mercer and Merchant Adventurer, two account books of a London merchant in the reign of Elizabeth I, XXI (Gateshead: Northants. Rec. Soc., 1962), p. lv.
  • 74
    • 70249114630 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • St George's Chapel Archives, Windsor, XV. 54.91; XV. 30.38, XV. 29.2, XV. 29.4, leases; XV. 58.15, suits-at-law; The National Archives, C2/ Eliz/C6/49, Chancery, Six Clerks Office, Pleadings 1558-1603.
    • St George's Chapel Archives, Windsor, XV. 54.91; XV. 30.38, XV. 29.2, XV. 29.4, leases; XV. 58.15, suits-at-law; The National Archives, C2/ Eliz/C6/49, Chancery, Six Clerks Office, Pleadings 1558-1603.
  • 75
    • 70249138543 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/80, q. 87.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/80, q. 87.
  • 76
    • 70249102621 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/136, q. 108;
    • The National Archives, prob/11/136, q. 108;
  • 78
    • 70249101593 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/54/74ab, wills.
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/54/74ab, wills.
  • 79
    • 70249124412 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, R/HMC/I, no. 16, Reading Weavers' Charter; Jackson, 'Berkshire Woollen Industry', pp. 104-05.
    • Berkshire Record Office, R/HMC/I, no. 16, Reading Weavers' Charter; Jackson, 'Berkshire Woollen Industry', pp. 104-05.
  • 80
    • 70249150220 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6; Berkshire Record Office, R/HMC/ LVI, Reading Gild Rules.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6; Berkshire Record Office, R/HMC/ LVI, Reading Gild Rules.
  • 81
    • 70249138544 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/84 q. 58; prob/11/67 q. 29; prob/11/62 q. 27.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/84 q. 58; prob/11/67 q. 29; prob/11/62 q. 27.
  • 82
    • 70249102289 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • A stockard was a card fixed to a stock or other support which was used to prepare wool for spinning
    • A stockard was a card fixed to a stock or other support which was used to prepare wool for spinning.
  • 83
    • 70249096481 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/2/411; prob/11/62 q. 18.
    • The National Archives, prob/2/411; prob/11/62 q. 18.
  • 84
    • 70249123693 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Thomas Bye, fuller, served as Mayor of the Merchant Gild of Reading, 1516-17.
    • Thomas Bye, fuller, served as Mayor of the Merchant Gild of Reading, 1516-17.
  • 85
    • 70249128172 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Walter Bye served as burgess and was related by marriage to the Watlingtons and Kendricks. John M. Guilding ed., Records of the Borough of Reading: Diary of the Corporation, I (London: James Parker & Co., 1892-96), p. 103.
    • Walter Bye served as burgess and was related by marriage to the Watlingtons and Kendricks. John M. Guilding ed., Records of the Borough of Reading: Diary of the Corporation, I (London: James Parker & Co., 1892-96), p. 103.
  • 86
    • 70249132015 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Drapers' Company Archives, FAI
    • Drapers' Company Archives, London, Freedom List, 1567-1656, FAI.
    • London, Freedom List , pp. 1567-1656
  • 88
    • 70249135823 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9;
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9;
  • 89
    • 70249128521 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Oxford Archaeology, 'Reading Oracle', i, pp. 22-36;
    • Oxford Archaeology, 'Reading Oracle', i, pp. 22-36;
  • 90
    • 70249094503 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/QR/19/2/1, fols 1-2, 10-11,
    • D/QR/19/2/1, fols , vol.1-2 , pp. 10-11
  • 91
    • 70249112839 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • John Kendrick Accounts, Charity, 1625-50.
    • John Kendrick Accounts, Charity, 1625-50.
  • 92
    • 70249106962 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • In 1568, Thomas Kendrick received dispensation from the Privy Council to exercise, the mistery of making woollen cloths long or short and kerseys, pynned whites and plaine streites and to sell the same, He acquired a substantial house and cloth-making premises in Minster Street and invested in land in Reading, Sindlesham, and Shinfield before his early death c. 1588. Calendar of Patent Rolls, iv, no. 1132, p. 197;
    • In 1568, Thomas Kendrick received dispensation from the Privy Council to exercise'... the mistery of making woollen cloths long or short and kerseys, pynned whites and plaine streites and to sell the same ...'. He acquired a substantial house and cloth-making premises in Minster Street and invested in land in Reading, Sindlesham, and Shinfield before his early death c. 1588. Calendar of Patent Rolls, iv, no. 1132, p. 197;
  • 93
    • 70249088544 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
  • 94
    • 70249110257 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, item, Charity Papers
    • Berkshire Record Office, Reading Box 67, Bundle 3, item 2, Charity Papers.
    • Reading Box 67, Bundle 3 , pp. 2
  • 96
    • 70249099058 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A2 c. 61, p. 77,
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A2 c. 61, p. 77,
  • 97
    • 70249119834 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Archdeaconry Court Records, Deposition Book, 1616-20.
    • Berkshire Archdeaconry Court Records, Deposition Book, 1616-20.
  • 98
    • 70249093466 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Christine Jackson ed., Newbury Kendrick Workhouse Records 1627-41, viii (Reading: Berkshire Records Society, 2004), p. 211.
    • Christine Jackson ed., Newbury Kendrick Workhouse Records 1627-41, viii (Reading: Berkshire Records Society, 2004), p. 211.
  • 99
    • 70249134417 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
  • 100
    • 70249137085 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • British Library, Add. MS 72421, Privy Council Enquiry into the Kendrick Legacy.
    • British Library, Add. MS 72421, Privy Council Enquiry into the Kendrick Legacy.
  • 101
  • 103
    • 70249096479 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Drapers' Company Archives
    • Drapers' Company Archives, FA1, Freedom List, 1567-1656;
    • FA1, Freedom List , pp. 1567-1656
  • 104
    • 70249121839 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • QB1Quarterage Book, 1605-18
    • QB1Quarterage Book, 1605-18.
  • 105
    • 70249092748 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The New Draperies in the northern Netherlands
    • Negley B. Harte ed, New York: Pasold Research Fund, Oxford University Press
    • Leo Noordegraaf, 'The New Draperies in the northern Netherlands, 1500-1899', in Negley B. Harte ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England (New York: Pasold Research Fund, Oxford University Press, 1997), p. 178.
    • (1997) The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England , vol.1500-1899 , pp. 178
    • Noordegraaf, L.1
  • 107
    • 70249084724 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Peter H. Ramsey, 'Two Early Tudor Cloth Merchants: Sir Thomas Kitson and Sir Thomas Gresham', in Marco Spallanzani ed., Produzione, commercio e consumo dei panni di lana (nei secoli XII-XVIII) (Florence: L. S. Olschki, 1976), pp. 388-89.
    • Peter H. Ramsey, 'Two Early Tudor Cloth Merchants: Sir Thomas Kitson and Sir Thomas Gresham', in Marco Spallanzani ed., Produzione, commercio e consumo dei panni di lana (nei secoli XII-XVIII) (Florence: L. S. Olschki, 1976), pp. 388-89.
  • 108
    • 70249146360 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Woollen Industry
    • Jackson, 'Woollen Industry', pp. 149-50.
    • Jackson1
  • 109
  • 110
    • 70249110258 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Astrid Friis, Alderman Cockayne's Project and the Cloth Trade (London: H. Milford, Oxford University Press, 1927), pp. 129-30, 62-65.
    • Astrid Friis, Alderman Cockayne's Project and the Cloth Trade (London: H. Milford, Oxford University Press, 1927), pp. 129-30, 62-65.
  • 114
    • 70249085756 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Both Reading and Newbury boasted several fulling mills within their boundaries and there were numerous other mills within easy reach of the two towns. Christine Jackson, The Berkshire Woollen Industry c.1500-1650, in Joan Dils ed, An Historical Atlas of Berkshire Reading: Berkshire Record Society, 1998, pp. 52-53
    • Both Reading and Newbury boasted several fulling mills within their boundaries and there were numerous other mills within easy reach of the two towns. Christine Jackson, 'The Berkshire Woollen Industry c.1500-1650', in Joan Dils ed., An Historical Atlas of Berkshire (Reading: Berkshire Record Society, 1998), pp. 52-53.
  • 115
    • 70249113913 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • 38.5 per cent of land in the region was enclosed compared with 23.9 per cent for the county as a whole. Ross Wordie ed, Reading: Berkshire Record Society, pp. xxvi-xlxvii
    • About 38.5 per cent of land in the region was enclosed compared with 23.9 per cent for the county as a whole. Ross Wordie ed., Enclosure in Berkshire, 1485-1885, v (Reading: Berkshire Record Society, 2000), pp. xxvi-xlxvii.
    • (2000) Enclosure in Berkshire, 1485-1885, v
    • About1
  • 116
    • 70249146710 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Calculated from the lay subsidy of 1523-27
    • Calculated from the lay subsidy of 1523-27.
  • 117
    • 0344599956 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ranking Lists of English Medieval Towns
    • D. Palliser ed, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press
    • Alan D. Dyer, 'Ranking Lists of English Medieval Towns', in D. Palliser ed., The Cambridge Urban History of Britain, I, 600-1540 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000), pp. 761-67.
    • (2000) The Cambridge Urban History of Britain, I, 600-1540 , pp. 761-767
    • Dyer, A.D.1
  • 118
    • 70249136715 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Calculated using decadal count of baptisms. Jackson, 'Berkshire Woollen Industry', pp. 35-36, 190-91.
    • Calculated using decadal count of baptisms. Jackson, 'Berkshire Woollen Industry', pp. 35-36, 190-91.
  • 119
    • 0041062132 scopus 로고
    • Embezzlements, Industry and the Law in England
    • Maxine Berg, Pat Hudson and Michael Sonenscher eds, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press
    • John Styles, 'Embezzlements, Industry and the Law in England, 1500-1800', in Maxine Berg, Pat Hudson and Michael Sonenscher eds, Manufacture in Town and Country Before the Factory (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983), pp. 175-78.
    • (1983) Manufacture in Town and Country Before the Factory , vol.1500-1800 , pp. 175-178
    • Styles, J.1
  • 121
    • 70249129608 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., p. 5.
    • Berg1
  • 122
    • 70249105237 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Patent Rolls, iv,
    • no. 1132, p. 197
    • Calendar of Patent Rolls, iv, no. 1132, p. 197.
    • Calendar of1
  • 124
    • 70249093811 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record 0ffice, D/A1/1/175/27, Wills; The National Archives, prob/11/80 q. 80.
    • Berkshire Record 0ffice, D/A1/1/175/27, Wills; The National Archives, prob/11/80 q. 80.
  • 125
    • 0040627630 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Credit in the Pre-Industrial English Woollen Industry
    • Michael L. Zell, 'Credit in the Pre-Industrial English Woollen Industry', Economic History Review, 49, no. 4 (1996), p. 669.
    • (1996) Economic History Review , vol.49 , Issue.4 , pp. 669
    • Zell, M.L.1
  • 127
    • 70249130330 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Mercers' Company Archives, Gresham Daybook, Entries 4946, 4951, 4954.
    • Mercers' Company Archives, Gresham Daybook, Entries 4946, 4951, 4954.
  • 129
    • 70249119473 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archive, prob/11/19 q. 27;
    • The National Archive, prob/11/19 q. 27;
  • 130
    • 70249102288 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • prob/11/57 q. 47
    • prob/11/57 q. 47.
  • 131
    • 70249091973 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • See above, pp. 151-52
    • See above, pp. 151-52.
  • 132
    • 70249139327 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6;
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6;
  • 133
    • 70249145299 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • prob/11/73 q. 9
    • prob/11/73 q. 9.
  • 134
    • 70249099054 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., prob/11/40 q. 26;
    • Ibid., prob/11/40 q. 26;
  • 136
    • 70249101945 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Joan Dils, Redding, 1540-1640 (Reading, 1981), p. 21.
    • Joan Dils, Redding, 1540-1640 (Reading, 1981), p. 21.
  • 137
    • 70249148788 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, LR/2/187, fols 112-32, 314-44, Survey of the Town of Reading. See also above, p. 153.
    • The National Archives, LR/2/187, fols 112-32, 314-44, Survey of the Town of Reading. See also above, p. 153.
  • 138
    • 70249119125 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/132/183, Wills;
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/132/183, Wills;
  • 139
    • 70249090585 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Oxford Archaeology, '24 Northbrook Street, Newbury'; Reading Library, John Willis's Plan of the Town of Newbury and Speenhamland, 1768, LM 756.
    • Oxford Archaeology, '24 Northbrook Street, Newbury'; Reading Library, John Willis's Plan of the Town of Newbury and Speenhamland, 1768, LM 756.
  • 140
    • 70249086801 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bodleian Library, DOUCE, D225(1), Sketch by John Flaxman in Deloney 'Jack of Newbury'.
    • Bodleian Library, DOUCE, D225(1), Sketch by John Flaxman in Deloney 'Jack of Newbury'.
  • 142
    • 70249117685 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/40 q. 26.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/40 q. 26.
  • 143
    • 70249105238 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/35/188b, Wills.
    • Berkshire Record Office, D/A1/35/188b, Wills.
  • 145
    • 70249096132 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • TNA, prob/11/40 q. 26.
    • TNA, prob/11/40 q. 26.
  • 146
    • 70249150219 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/73 q. 9.
  • 147
    • 70249141853 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/57 q. 47;
    • The National Archives, prob/11/57 q. 47;
  • 149
    • 70249144522 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/59 q. 6.
  • 150
    • 70249113212 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Stone and Stone, An Open Elite, pp. 3-4.
    • Stone and Stone, An Open Elite, pp. 3-4.
  • 151
    • 84937296242 scopus 로고
    • Social Mobility and Middling Self-Identity: The Ethos of British Autobiographers, 1600-1750
    • Michael Mascuch, 'Social Mobility and Middling Self-Identity: the Ethos of British Autobiographers, 1600-1750', Social History, xx, no. 1 (1995), pp. 45-61.
    • (1995) Social History , vol.20 , Issue.1 , pp. 45-61
    • Mascuch, M.1
  • 152
    • 0010510886 scopus 로고
    • trans. Paul Turner London
    • Thomas More, Utopia, trans. Paul Turner (London, 1965);
    • (1965) Utopia
    • More, T.1
  • 153
    • 70249147828 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Aquinas, Selected Political Writings, ed. Alexander P. D'Entreves, trans. J. G. Dawson (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1970);
    • Aquinas, Selected Political Writings, ed. Alexander P. D'Entreves, trans. J. G. Dawson (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1970);
  • 154
    • 2642568123 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Cambridge: Cambridge University Press
    • James R. Farr, Artisans in Europe, 1300-1914 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000), pp. 10-15.
    • (2000) Artisans in Europe, 1300-1914 , pp. 10-15
    • Farr, J.R.1
  • 155
    • 70249089178 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Although Protestant writers and preachers promoted the value and dignity of labour, and Puritans such as William Perkins advised that wealth was a sign of God's blessing and could be enjoyed in good conscience provided it was deployed wisely, their preaching merely brought greater appreciation for industrial and commercial success and had a negligible impact upon the social status of clothiers. Laura C. Stevenson, Praise and Paradox: Merchants and Craftsmen in Elizabethan Popular Literature Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1984, p. 134
    • Although Protestant writers and preachers promoted the value and dignity of labour, and Puritans such as William Perkins advised that wealth was a sign of God's blessing and could be enjoyed in good conscience provided it was deployed wisely, their preaching merely brought greater appreciation for industrial and commercial success and had a negligible impact upon the social status of clothiers. Laura C. Stevenson, Praise and Paradox: Merchants and Craftsmen in Elizabethan Popular Literature (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1984), p. 134.
  • 157
    • 70249087867 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • George D. Ramsay, The Wiltshire Woollen Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (London: H. Milford, Oxford University Press, 1943), pp. 46-47.
    • George D. Ramsay, The Wiltshire Woollen Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (London: H. Milford, Oxford University Press, 1943), pp. 46-47.
  • 158
    • 70249150565 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Walter Money, The History of Newbury (Newbury: W. J. Blacket, 1905), pp. 206-07.
    • Walter Money, The History of Newbury (Newbury: W. J. Blacket, 1905), pp. 206-07.
  • 160
    • 70249143446 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 633.
    • Commons , vol.3 , pp. 633
    • Bindoff1
  • 162
    • 70249143446 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 633.
    • Commons , vol.3 , pp. 633
    • Bindoff1
  • 165
    • 70249108317 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • W. Harry Rylands ed., The Four Visitations of Berkshire (London: The Harleian Society, 1907), p. 60;
    • W. Harry Rylands ed., The Four Visitations of Berkshire (London: The Harleian Society, 1907), p. 60;
  • 167
    • 70249125270 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Joseph Foster ed., Alumni Oxonienses, 1, Early Series (Oxford: Parker & Co., 1891), p. 413.
    • Joseph Foster ed., Alumni Oxonienses, vol. 1, Early Series (Oxford: Parker & Co., 1891), p. 413.
  • 169
    • 70249127421 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Victoria County History, Berkshire, iii, p. 219.
    • Victoria County History, Berkshire, iii, p. 219.
  • 170
    • 0344392109 scopus 로고
    • Bourgeois Collectivism? Urban Association and the Middling Sort
    • Jonathan Barry and Christopher Brooks eds, Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan
    • Jonathan Barry, 'Bourgeois Collectivism? Urban Association and the Middling Sort', in Jonathan Barry and Christopher Brooks eds, The Middling Sort of People: Culture, Society and Politics in England, 1550-1800 (Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan, 1994), p. 87.
    • (1994) The Middling Sort of People: Culture, Society and Politics in England, 1550-1800 , pp. 87
    • Barry, J.1
  • 171
    • 70249126369 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Winchcombe may have sat in earlier Parliaments but the records are missing. Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 633.
    • Winchcombe may have sat in earlier Parliaments but the records are missing. Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 633.
  • 172
    • 70249141468 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Guilding, Reading Records, i, pp. 220, 253-54, 563, 309.
    • Guilding, Reading Records, i, pp. 220, 253-54, 563, 309.
  • 176
    • 70249106588 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • xvi, no. 625, p. 297
    • xvi, no. 625, p. 297.
  • 177
    • 70249116614 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/19 q. 27.
  • 178
    • 70249118749 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., prob/11/19 q. 27.
    • Ibid., prob/11/19 q. 27.
  • 179
    • 70249100827 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., prob/11/62 q. 18.
    • Ibid., prob/11/62 q. 18.
  • 180
    • 70249125269 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Ibid., prob/11/40 q. 26.
    • Ibid., prob/11/40 q. 26.
  • 181
    • 70249086800 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • BRO, T/R269, Transcript of Newbury Parish Register, Baptisms 1538-1634.
    • BRO, T/R269, Transcript of Newbury Parish Register, Baptisms 1538-1634.
  • 182
    • 70249105586 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/144; prob/11/167.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/144; prob/11/167.
  • 183
    • 70249101188 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Whilst Stumpe's industrial pragmatism in developing a redundant abbey site and investing in former monastic mills is impressive, his organizational innovation was less exceptional than that of his Berkshire contemporaries because he produced semi-manufactured cloths and thus operated a less complex manufacturing cycle. Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 405.
    • Whilst Stumpe's industrial pragmatism in developing a redundant abbey site and investing in former monastic mills is impressive, his organizational innovation was less exceptional than that of his Berkshire contemporaries because he produced semi-manufactured cloths and thus operated a less complex manufacturing cycle. Bindoff, Commons, iii, p. 405.
  • 184
    • 70249091295 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Betterton and Dymond, Lavenham, p. 30.
    • Betterton and Dymond, Lavenham, p. 30.
  • 190
    • 70249135977 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Of the 27 clothiers listed in Reading's guild lists c. 1570 only four (Walter Bye, Thomas Kendrick, Thomas Turner and Richard Watlington) boasted descendants in business in 1623. Only the Byes were active in cloth-making in Reading for more than a century.
    • Of the 27 clothiers listed in Reading's guild lists c. 1570 only four (Walter Bye, Thomas Kendrick, Thomas Turner and Richard Watlington) boasted descendants in business in 1623. Only the Byes were active in cloth-making in Reading for more than a century.
  • 191
    • 70249133540 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Record Office, Wills, B222d;
    • Berkshire Record Office, Wills, B222d;
  • 192
    • 70249089535 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • The National Archives, prob/11/62 q. 18.
    • The National Archives, prob/11/62 q. 18.
  • 193
    • 70249094826 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • See above, pp. 151-52, 154-55
    • See above, pp. 151-52, 154-55.
  • 194
    • 70249122954 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • See above, p. 152
    • See above, p. 152.
  • 195
    • 70249088193 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • Berkshire Cloth Industry
    • Jackson, 'Berkshire Cloth Industry', pp. 233-49.
    • Jackson1
  • 197
    • 84916974515 scopus 로고
    • The Development of the London Food Market, 1540-1640
    • Frederick J. Fisher, 'The Development of the London Food Market, 1540-1640', Economic History Review, x (1939-40), p. 51;
    • (1939) Economic History Review , vol.10 , pp. 51
    • Fisher, F.J.1
  • 198
    • 70249129953 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • James A. Galloway ed., 'One Market or Many? London and the Grain Trade of England', in J. A. Galloway ed., Trade, Urban Hinterlands and Market Integration c. 1300-1600 (London: Centre for Metropolitan History, Institute of Historical Research, 2000), pp. 28-29.
    • James A. Galloway ed., 'One Market or Many? London and the Grain Trade of England', in J. A. Galloway ed., Trade, Urban Hinterlands and Market Integration c. 1300-1600 (London: Centre for Metropolitan History, Institute of Historical Research, 2000), pp. 28-29.
  • 199
    • 70249125268 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • For example in 1601 the former clothier, Richard Watlington, left his dwelling house to his daughter Elizabeth and her husband William Iremonger, together with 'my brewehouse, my scalles, my woodbarton, all my brewing vesseles, furnaces and moveables in my brewhouse and whatsoever to my brewehouse belongith, w[i]th the horse and carte used about the same ...'. The National Archives, prob. 11/98 q. 60.
    • For example in 1601 the former clothier, Richard Watlington, left his dwelling house to his daughter Elizabeth and her husband William Iremonger, together with 'my brewehouse, my scalles, my woodbarton, all my brewing vesseles, furnaces and moveables in my brewhouse and whatsoever to my brewehouse belongith, w[i]th the horse and carte used about the same ...'. The National Archives, prob. 11/98 q. 60.
  • 200
    • 84908943280 scopus 로고    scopus 로고
    • 500
    • Defoe, Tour, pp. 493-94, 500.
    • Tour , pp. 493-494
    • Defoe1


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