Materials in mountaineering

Materials in Sports Equipment

Volumn 1, Issue , 2003, Pages 279-325

  Blackford, J R ^a  

^a UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH   (United Kingdom)

Author keywords

[No Author keywords available]

Indexed keywords

EID: 65149100406     PISSN: None     EISSN: None     Source Type: Book    
DOI: 10.1016/B978-1-85573-599-6.50015-7     Document Type: Chapter

References (48)

1. Bennett F. Learning the ropes. Summit 2000, 20:28-29.
2. Blackford, J.R. (1994). Camp Hypercouloir ice axe, fracture of head, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMD 94/4.
3. Blackford, J.R. (1995a). Collapse of ice axe pick, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMD 95/2.
4. Blackford, J.R. (1995b). Fracture of front point, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMR 95/8.
5. Blackford, J.R. (1996). Materials in mountaineering equipment: A look at how processing and heat treatment influences the structure and properties of aluminium alloy karabiners, in The Engineering of Sport, Proceedings of the First International Conference on the Engineering of Sport, Ed. S Haake, Publ. Balkema, Sheffield, UK 2-4 July, pp. 161-167.
6. Blackford J.R., Maycock E.C. Climbing safety reaches new heights in Europe. Materials World 2001, 9(8):8-12. European supplement.
7. Black Diamond (1999). Changing the way climbers think about gear. The story of wiregates, information leaflet published by Black Diamond Equipment Limited.
8. British Mountaineering Council (1997). Participation statistics.
9. British Mountaineering Council (1997). Technical Series Knots.
10. British Mountaineering Council (1998). Technical Series Ropes.
11. British Mountaineering Council (1999). Annual Report, p 12.
12. British Mountaineering Council (2001). Care and maintenance.
13. British Mountaineering Council (2002). Crampons.
14. Charlet J. Karabiners: be aware. Journal of the UIAA 2000, 3:14-15.
15. Charlet, J. and Lassia, R. (1989). Etude Dynamique du Mousqueton, Annex 5 in UIAA Safety Commission papers, Chamonix 28 June-1 July 1989; published in British Mountaineering Council Technical Report 90/1, 1990.
16. Dickens, P.M. (1990). Examination of DMM featherlite karabiner which broke - gate open, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMC 90.
17. Grandison, N. (1993). Camp lightweight (6 kN) UIAA Karabiner broken - fall factor 0.3 - keeper open, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMC 93/11.
18. Hellen, T. K. (1996). Stubai bent front points, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMR 96/5.
19. Hillebrandt D. Hidden secrets corrosion of sea cliff pegs. Summit 2001, 22:52.
20. Huyton, A. (1994). Faders karabiner broken - fall factor 0.13, keeper open, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMC 94/2.
21. Ingram S. Grigri - unmasking the myths. Summit 2001, 23:26-27.
22. Keynote UK sports market (1996). Reported in British Mountaineering Council Participation statistics, 1997.
23. Lyon B. Care and Maintenance 2001, 29-32. British Mountaineering Council.
24. Maycock, E. C. (2001). Troll Attachment Loop Development, MSc Thesis, Centre for Materials Science and Engineering, University of Edinburgh.
25. McMillan, N. (1995). Industrial helmet - chinstrap release, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMF 95/13.
26. McMillan, N. (1999). The BMC, technology, and the safety of climbers, The Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering Conference Proceedings, Leeds University, Chapter 14.
27. McMillian N. Karabiner breakings when using a figure-of eight. Journal of the UIAA 2000, 3:5-6.
28. MacNae, A. (1995). Harness buckle slippage, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCME 95/15.
29. MacNae, A. (1999). Acid rope, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMB 99/01.
30. MacNae A., Taylor M. Head games: the BMC helmet testing programme, part 1. Summit 2000, 19:30-32.
31. MacNae A., Taylor M. Heads up: the BMC helmet testing programme, part 2. Summit 2001, 20:30-36.
32. Mills, N. (2001). Materials Learning and Teaching Case Studies: Polymeric ropes for sport activities. http://www.materials.ac.uk/resources/casestudies/ropes.html.
33. Mintel leisure intelligence, Sporting activities in the great outdoors, August 1996; reported in British Mountaineering Council Participation statistics 1997.
34. Pavier, M. (1996). Derivation of a rope behaviour model for the analysis of forces developed during a rock climbing leader fall, The Engineering of Sport, Proceedings of the First International Conference on the Engineering of Sport, Ed. S Haake, Publ. Balkema, Sheffield, UK 2-4 July 1996, pp. 271-279.
35. Pavier, M. (1999). Presentation at British Mountaineering Council Technical Conference, Plas y Brenin, UK, November.
36. Payne, R. (1994). Mercury rope broken in fatal abseil accident, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMB 94/10.
37. Perkins, A. (1991). Troll tapes, slings and harnesses booklet, Troll, UK.
38. Riley, A.M. and Maddock, P. (1983). Pitting corrosion of alloy karabiners, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCMC 83/11.
39. Schubert P. Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis [Safety and risk on crags and ice] 1998, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother GmbH.
40. Schubert P. About ageing of climbing ropes. Journal of the UIAA 2000, 3:12-13.
41. Schubert P. Attaching to the rope by karabiner. Journal of the UIAA 2000, 3:18-19. Also see http://www.klettertraining.de/divers/unfaelle.html.
42. Signoretti G. Wet and icy ropes may be dangerous!. Journal of the UIAA 2001, 2:25-28.
43. Simon M., Taylor I. Ice axe/crampon failure investigations 1991, British Mountaineering Council Technical Memorandum, TCM 92/2.0.
44. Smith R.A. Risk reduction in rock climbing. Sports Engineering 1998, 1(1):27-39.
45. Steele, G. (1995). Climbers belt buckle slippage, British Mountaineering Council Technical Report TCME 95/4.
46. Taylor M. Helmets off centre impacts. Summit 2002, 26:50.
47. UIAA Journal (2000). EN and UIAA standards for mountaineering and climbing equipment, UIAA Journal, 3, 23.
48. Wexler A. The theory of belaying. American Alpine Club Journal 1950, 7(4):379-405.